Moscow Mules at Ten Paces

Tallinn, Estonia

Time for another ferry ride, but at least the sun was shining for our trip across the Baltic to Estonia and the UNESCO Heritage Listed old town of Tallinn.  What a delight to wander through cobbled streets and enjoy the seriously medieval ambience.

I think the "modern" building behind the old city is the KGB Hotel & Museum

But not before yet another 20km bike ride; this one courtesy of City Bikes and in the company of a knowledgeable guide.  Our tail-end Charlie earned his keep this day as we photographers stopped regularly at unscheduled intervals to take yet more photos.  As you do!  This tour took us well out of the old city limits so we could appreciate the huge natural harbour and understand completely why Tallinn was yet another gold star in the strategic acquisitions program of the Hanseatic League. 

After the ride, his Captainship headed off to the KGB Museum (he was less than complimentary on return) and GS made for an exhibition of European Masters from the Medieval and Renaissance times.  Housed within the Medieval Town Hall (the only surviving  Town Hall in the Gothic style of architecture) the exhibition was showcased brilliantly with many old masters that are rarely (if ever) seen at home.  What a treat!

After that, it was time to hit the shops and admire the local talent for knitting, spot incredibly cheap linen products and wish that luggage allowances were more generous.  The Katariina Guild, a row of craftsman’s studios housed in medieval workshops in an alley alongside the Katariina Monastery was home to leather, glass, ceramics, felt, milliners and textiles.  Finally, some fellow patchworkers!  

Given that our tour had become something of an eat-street review, it should be noted that we had an amazing dinner at a Medieval-style restaurant under the Town Hall.  We dined on ox rib, ate pies, drank wine from ceramic beakers, beer from jugs, and soup from bowls, and fished for pickles from a barrel – all with no cutlery (except a knife) and in a dark, atmospheric cellar.  It was certainly not a 5 star dining experience but heaps of fun. 

Another restaurant in the town square served bear meat, smoked beaver, wild mushrooms and the very best black caviar (at a mere 99€)…but we simply couldn't bear the thought of it...(Sorry!)  Yes, Tallinn, although a favourite of Fins is also visited by crowds and crowds of Russians.

Meanwhile some of us had to stay home and take care of a few chores.  Namely drying the laundry!  (Note effective use of hairdryer for drying undies whilst on the internet...  He's such a natural!)

(For those interested, a Moscow Mule is a cocktail of vodka, lime and ginger beer.  Self-preservation kicks in at times, especially as youth fades, and we developed instead a fondness for Chilean wines.)