Heat Haze & Wild Fires

Rogoznica – Medieval Island.  The village of Rogoznica was built on an island in 16^th c, no doubt for reasons of security.  Nowadays, the gap to the mainland has been bridged by a causeway and the area offers two excellent sheltered anchorages.  We found a lovely spot near Stupin Bay and spent the evening swimming, wondering why Italians have to park so darn close (to us) and getting the bbq going.  Our new crew has become the galley slave’s slave….

Hvar – Island of Aficionados.  Hvar was not a stop – it’s a very definite drive-by.  We rode the well-trod Pakleni Kanal, wondered at the fuss, ogled huge motorboats, lost count of busy charter boats seeking that perfect anchorage in amongst the island group that makes up the Pakleni National park and waved at boatloads of visitors out enjoying the sunshine.  So much for the numerous "peaceful" coves as advertised!  Anyway, we had another “perfect” anchorage in mind (over on Korcula) and hoped the Contiki day-trippers had left for the day…  

Our delightful anchorage off Korcula

Korcula – Island on Fire.  As we had been travelling south, we’d noticed a lingering heat haze over the islands.  What little wind blew off the mountains disappeared early in the day.  Croatia was experiencing a heatwave and our sailing adventure became long days of motoring.  

 

Korcula is another popular destination settled since Neolithic times.  Rumour has it that Antenor (of Trojan fame) founded the old town. Given that Butrint in Albania and other areas along this Adriatic coast have similar credentials, it is highly likely there is some truth to it.  The old walled town, dating from medieval times, was also home to Marco Polo who, though not the first long distance traveller, managed an epic voyage to China in the 13^th c, and become great mates with Kublai Khan. (And lived to tell the story despite being Christian!!)  (Venetians will tell you his origins differently, of course!)

 

Stone fences built by enthusiastic ancients, perhaps for a Grk winery

Old town of Korcula

Despite the appeal of Korcula's  old town (and the rare absence of yet another cruise ship) we set our sights on Dubrovnik’s walled city and a truly peaceful anchorage up the river near the ACI Marina.  We left our almost deserted anchorage (U Kneza) quite early, with the vague whiff of smoke in the air.  Korcula had suffered badly from wild fires.  Pine forests, olive groves and other properties, including a famous winery, had all sadly burned.  Grk wine is said to have come with Greek settlers after the fall of Troy.  Fortunately, there was no loss of life.  Our Dubrovnik waiter declared it a national disaster…none of his favourite red wine, Dingac, next year!

Slaving over a hot BBQ