Angels & Bird Nests

Vilnius, Lithuania.  Something New

Talented Artists remember Famous Writers

Of course, there are plenty of things (other than history - "thank goodness," you’re saying!) to look at or do in this vibrant city.  Here are a few we managed to find – even on a rainy, miserable day:

Street of Writers

Literatu Gatve (Street of Writers):  We came upon this interesting, permanent outdoor gallery in our wanderings through the old town.  It is dedicated to writers who have left their mark on the city and was inspired by a poem (“Literatu Gatve” by Aidas Marcenas) about young men sitting drinking, smoking and chatting on the street. 

Some locks are especially romantic

Bridge of Locks: During our walk in Riga, Olga had told us that Baltic wedding tradition demands the groom must carry his bride across 7 bridges.  Each bridge represents a phase of life – for example childhood, love, health.  Wanting to keep tradition alive, some couples nowadays take a different spin on the “bridge” theme.  It’s very popular to visit various city monuments (yes, it must be seven) and for some attaching a love lock to a bridge (over water) is a must.  A love lock, symbolising the strength of the unbreakable marriage bond, is usually inscribed with names or initials, attached to a bridge and the key thrown into the water.  It is said to have originated in Serbia during WWII when couples symbolically sealed their love before the men went off to fight.   

Street tiles in Uzupis add to the charm of this artists' enclave

Quirky Užupis:  Crossing the bridge of locks, we found ourselves in Užupis.  This is a decidedly bohemian part of Old Town, occupied by the trendy, artists, dreamers and squatters.  In 1998, residents unofficially declared the area to be an independent republic, with its own president, anthem, flag, and constitution.  The Angel of Užupis stands triumphantly in the main square.  She is blowing a trumpet and standing on an egg.  As angels must..

Street frontage with lots of appeal

Individual Flavour: Not all old town buildings are kept in kid gloves.  Some we discovered have been turned into “character” restaurants.  We ate at Lokys (meaning bear) where medieval inspired hunters’ dishes (game) and traditional Lithuanian food is served in style.  We had a table booked for the 15^th c Gothic cellars.  Be warned, it’s an experience.  The stairs down are so narrow it’s impossible not to feel ever-so-slightly claustrophobic but once seated we all concentrated on our hearty, good-for-rainy-days food.  Yummmmm!

Cat Café:  Having missed a visit to cat cafés in Tallinn and Riga, GS went in search of the Vilnius local, only to discover Murrr had closed.  The idea being that you sip your coffee to the tune of purring cats.  Rescued moggies lead a life of comfort and in turn, keep your blood pressure down.  Simple and healthy?  Apparently a Japanese initiative, it’s taken off big time in trendy Baltic countries.  There is another in town, Cat Café – just a bit further out.  But on enquiry, my Lithuanian and the shop assistant’s English resulted in confused directions.  And no cats. 

Under the Egg

Russian Egg:  Not too sure what this was about but we arrived in time to watch this selfie being “window dressed” whilst a crowd of “old boys” watched with amusement.  The 300kg egg is said to be a marker of a bird market once close by.  Another says it hatched the Angel of Uzupis and then was moved on to this less salubrious spot in the Jewish Quarter.  We saw it as a marker of all the little surprises Vilnius has to offer.

Choral Synagogue:  Built in 1903, this is the remaining functional synagogue from more than 100 that existed pre-war.  It has an interesting Romanesque-Moorish style.  During the Holocaust around 95 per cent of Lithuanian Jews were murdered, the highest percentage in Europe.  Included were the vast majority of the 80,000 Jewish residents who lived in the city prior to the Nazi invasion of June 1941.

Rehearsal underway - even in the rain...

Concerts & Celebrations:  With the uni so close by it was hardly a surprise that the streets at night really rock.  The Cap’n disappeared both nights we were in town to the big stage set up on the Cathedral square for a little bit of loud, head-banging music.  He really had been missing his iPod; the victim of one too many indignities suffered whilst at sea…  These Autumn Celebrations (with accompanying night food market) hark back to pagan roots.  GS was pleased at least that the Cap’n chose concerts (and food) over a clandestine meeting of white witches on the old fort hill….