Iron Wolf

Something Old

Looking up at the Vilnius Cathedral

Medieval legend has it that Grand Duke Gediminas (1275-1341) of Lithuania dreamt of a huge iron wolf howling on a hilltop.  This was interpreted as a signal to build his capital, Vilnius, on that very hill.  So he did and today we walked the streets of this remarkable old town built at the foot of Gediminas’ wooden castle.  

Medieval Vilnius was a city built of wood and stood little chance of surviving fires that frequently raged.  From the beginning of the 15^th c however, buildings started to be constructed from brick and stone.  The Vilnius we visited has few buildings dating from Gothic and Renaissance times; mostly the architectural style is Baroque and Classicism. In 2009, the city celebrated its 1000^th year.  Vilnius’s Old Town is now UNESCO Heritage listed. 

Many of the buildings are positively dripping with age and bursting with stories to tell.  Some are still standing more-or-less as is, though most have been modified over years.  Vilnius has a rather hectic history.  So, here is a little walking tour – don’t worry it’s only a virtual stroll to take a look at a few of these structures. 

Stone Tower,
Castle of Gediminas

1:  We’ll begin with the imposing Castle of Gediminas.  Standing proudly over the Old Town, the oldest, and only surviving structure of this complex is now the stone tower.  This existing modification dating form 1419 is thought to have been over a timber fort dating from 1009.  Hill forts, used since the Bronze Age as defensive measures, are built on the crown of a hill and provided fortified refuges or easily defended settlements.  During the Dukes Wars, these timber fortifications held ground against the Crusaders.

2:  Now it’s over to Vilnius Cathedral.  King Mindaugas, who ruled 1251 -1263 (before our dreamer Gediminas), is said to have built the first Christian church in 1251 on the site of a pagan temple where the imposing, often modified Vilnius Cathedral has stood since 1491.  Its current white, “Greek Temple” exterior balances an imposing interior. 

The free-standing bell tower, also subject to various modifications over the years, was originally part of a gate in the medieval lower city’s defensive walls.

Vilnius Cathedral Bell Tower & rain..

 

St Anne's

3:  Next we have St Anne’s Church which was once a simple wooden church built in 1394 to honour Anna, the wife of Vytautas the Great, Grand Duke of Lithuania (1392-1430).  It, like others, morphed into a flamboyant grand design in 1495; now considered an unscathed, Gothic masterpiece.  Admirers include Napoleon (1812) who, it is said, expressed a wish to carry the church home in the palm of his hand.

4:  Nearby is the Bernadine Monastery.  Although a busy day for brides despite the rain, we stopped briefly to admire this large Gothic church, with its later romantic additions.  It too, once formed part of the city’s defensive walls and was constructed over the site of an earlier timber church built by Bernadine monks in the mid 1400’s.  The church was again re-constructed in 1516 and its interior is said to have been quite stunning prior to the Soviet regime using it as a garage.  Restoration works however, continue revealing unique murals and brightly coloured frescoes.  The nearby Monastery, of the same era, now houses the Art Academy.  Lucky them!

Town Hall (and a bit of a car park at the time).
It was a big wedding day though with lots of decorated cars about.

5:  In 1387, Lithuania became a Christian state and Vilnius was granted Magdeburg rights (town privileges).  Thus the need for a town hall to carry out those important administrative and community duties.  The current Town Hall has had many makeovers, and although mentioned in 1503, existed much earlier - 1403.  Its current classical structure was remodelled from Gothic plans in 1545, then again in 1799 largely due to fires and other less natural causes.  In 1812 Napoleon marched his disillusioned troops back through Vilnius on return from his Moscow campaign.  It is reported that some 40,000 troops died in Vilnius due to starvation and the extreme cold. 

6:  The impressive Palace of the Grand Dukes was originally constructed at the foot of Castle Hill in Vilnius in 1441 for rulers of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania and future kings of Poland.  Managing to survive 4^th c sieges, it came under the renovator’s eye in 1520 when Italian architects were instructed to update it in fine Renaissance style.  For four centuries it was the political, administrative and cultural centre of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth until destroyed by Russians in 1802.  A complex and controversial project was undertaken in 2002 to restore the Palace and provide Vilnius with a symbol of its past glories. 

1630's Icon in the Gate of Dawn

7:  We leave the Old Town through the celebrated Gate of Dawn (1503), the one remaining chapel from the old defensive town walls.  In those days, an image of the Virgin Mary was placed above all gates to protect the city.  The icon in the chapel we can see is the Blessed Virgin Mary Mother of Mercy, painted in 1630.  This famous icon is housed in a small chapel above the gate and is believed to have miraculous powers.  The image remains the symbol of the city and a site of pilgrimage.  In 1993, the Pope held prayers at the Gate of Dawn Chapel.

8:  St Casmire’s is the first and oldest Baroque church (1604), so pretty in pink that we just had to include it in our list of visits.  The original structure was burnt to the ground by Russians in 1655.  Like the unwavering phoenix, it rose from its ashes again and again until it was returned to the Catholic Church in 1988. 


Renovation has only recently been completed.  And yes, today there was a bride and a wedding underway!  How many churches do you need to see in an old town anyway?  Oh yes, Vilnius is known as the City of Churches….

St Casmire's