A Day of Haunting

Our long voyage south to Lithuania on a private bus had few benefits of regular travel – no on board wifi, spacious reclining seats or hot drinks – but we were able to fit in a very special stop not usually available on regular transport routes.  The Hill of Crosses’ notoriety was cemented when it became the pilgrimage site in remembrance of casualties from a peasant uprising sparked by young Polish officers rebelling against their Russian masters in 1831. 

The area’s history goes back so much further however, with the celebrated Battle of Saulè fought in 1236 by Samogitians (local Baltic tribes) defeating Teutonic and Livonian Knights.  The settlement of Siauliai was established nearby. The Hill of Crosses is thought to have started when locals placed crosses on the site of a former hill fort as a mark of nationalism and faith. 

From the beginning though the Hill of Crosses was as much about the endurance of Catholicism and a place to pray for peace & country in the face of occupation. It has become a site of pilgrimage, reflection and miracles.  Over the years the Hill has been bulldozed and suffered indignities but now continues to grow exponentially as visitors and pilgrims travel from the world over to pay their respects. Visitors in 1993 included the Pope. 

We arrived on a cold, bleak day, which lent an air of mystery and drama to this sombre site. Some say the Hill is haunted but we would describe it rather as haunting.  It is said to be impossible to count the crosses (now guesstimated at more than 200,000). When you visit you will understand why. The Hill of Crosses is an inspiring reminder of faith, nationalism and irrepressible spirit.