Iron Maiden

Vilnius, Lithuania.  A Vision Most Splendid

After our wet day trekking round Vilnius it was nice to see a bit of sun; especially so as we had planned a day trip by local bus to see the Trakai Island Castle.   The bus station is quite some distance from the area’s main feature – 25 minutes walking at least – but it was a nice day and the walk through the village very attractive with autumnal colours beginning to reveal themselves.  The area itself is a lake district with forested islands dotting a deep (and sailable) Lake Galvè. 

(Image from this Tour Group site)  Sadly, the weather was not that good for us!

Dry moat separates the main
palace from an outer courtyard

Trakai Castle, whose footprint almost consumes one of these tiny islands, dates from 1337.  Built during the reign of Vytautas the Great as a seat of power for the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, its strategic importance only waned after the crushing defeat of the Teutonic Knights in 1410.  This battle is said to be one of the greatest battles of Medieval Europe.  The rise of a substantially rebuilt Vilnius (its wooden castle was burned down in 1390) also added to the decline of Trakai’s military and political importance.  Having said that, the Island Castle remained a favoured summer residential palace hosting visiting dignitaries and many a grand celebration.   Trakai Castle was destroyed by the Cossacks in 1655 and it wasn’t until the 1950’s that restoration works began.  Given Lithuania’s tumultuous history, it’s hardly surprising that work wasn’t completed until 1987.  The result could only be described as a "vision most splendid". 

Circular defence towers have 4m thick bases

Castle Outer Courtyard.  Getting ready for a concert

Kingly Thrones

Grand Ducal Hall

Stunning Tapestry - not a lot of information in the Museum was in English
so sadly few details on exhibits were available to us...

Inner courtyard, Ducal Palace
(30m keep towering overhead)

The Palace now hosts the History Museum.  Parts of these building are 30m high and navigating the museum requires no fear of heights as open wooden stairs cling, seemingly precariously, to courtyard walls while internal spiral staircases plunge to castle depths, challenging the claustrophobic.  Avoiding tourists in large groups in tiny rooms became the game of the day and attracted the ire of custodians whose main job was to keep traffic moving one-way.  We felt as if we’d morphed real-time into an Escher lithograph of never-ending stairs.

In order to sustain ourselves for all this activity (stair climbing mostly) we stuffed ourselves with tasty homemade snacks, kibinai; a Trakai pasty might best describe it.  We wished we’d bought a few more as they were rather delicious but our grannie had sold out so we were forced to supplement our feasting with punnets of freshly picked blueberries instead.

The tiny village of timber cottages across from the island castle is home to ancestors of Judaic Karaim settlers.  Actually these ancestors were Vytautas’ captives who served in his household as royal guards.  Their Turkic ancestry is preserved and maintained in their customs and traditions. 

Karaim Houses in the Village

Angels & Bird Nests

Vilnius, Lithuania.  Something New

Talented Artists remember Famous Writers

Of course, there are plenty of things (other than history - "thank goodness," you’re saying!) to look at or do in this vibrant city.  Here are a few we managed to find – even on a rainy, miserable day:

Street of Writers

Literatu Gatve (Street of Writers):  We came upon this interesting, permanent outdoor gallery in our wanderings through the old town.  It is dedicated to writers who have left their mark on the city and was inspired by a poem (“Literatu Gatve” by Aidas Marcenas) about young men sitting drinking, smoking and chatting on the street. 

Some locks are especially romantic

Bridge of Locks: During our walk in Riga, Olga had told us that Baltic wedding tradition demands the groom must carry his bride across 7 bridges.  Each bridge represents a phase of life – for example childhood, love, health.  Wanting to keep tradition alive, some couples nowadays take a different spin on the “bridge” theme.  It’s very popular to visit various city monuments (yes, it must be seven) and for some attaching a love lock to a bridge (over water) is a must.  A love lock, symbolising the strength of the unbreakable marriage bond, is usually inscribed with names or initials, attached to a bridge and the key thrown into the water.  It is said to have originated in Serbia during WWII when couples symbolically sealed their love before the men went off to fight.   

Street tiles in Uzupis add to the charm of this artists' enclave

Quirky Užupis:  Crossing the bridge of locks, we found ourselves in Užupis.  This is a decidedly bohemian part of Old Town, occupied by the trendy, artists, dreamers and squatters.  In 1998, residents unofficially declared the area to be an independent republic, with its own president, anthem, flag, and constitution.  The Angel of Užupis stands triumphantly in the main square.  She is blowing a trumpet and standing on an egg.  As angels must..

Street frontage with lots of appeal

Individual Flavour: Not all old town buildings are kept in kid gloves.  Some we discovered have been turned into “character” restaurants.  We ate at Lokys (meaning bear) where medieval inspired hunters’ dishes (game) and traditional Lithuanian food is served in style.  We had a table booked for the 15^th c Gothic cellars.  Be warned, it’s an experience.  The stairs down are so narrow it’s impossible not to feel ever-so-slightly claustrophobic but once seated we all concentrated on our hearty, good-for-rainy-days food.  Yummmmm!

Cat Café:  Having missed a visit to cat cafés in Tallinn and Riga, GS went in search of the Vilnius local, only to discover Murrr had closed.  The idea being that you sip your coffee to the tune of purring cats.  Rescued moggies lead a life of comfort and in turn, keep your blood pressure down.  Simple and healthy?  Apparently a Japanese initiative, it’s taken off big time in trendy Baltic countries.  There is another in town, Cat Café – just a bit further out.  But on enquiry, my Lithuanian and the shop assistant’s English resulted in confused directions.  And no cats. 

Under the Egg

Russian Egg:  Not too sure what this was about but we arrived in time to watch this selfie being “window dressed” whilst a crowd of “old boys” watched with amusement.  The 300kg egg is said to be a marker of a bird market once close by.  Another says it hatched the Angel of Uzupis and then was moved on to this less salubrious spot in the Jewish Quarter.  We saw it as a marker of all the little surprises Vilnius has to offer.

Choral Synagogue:  Built in 1903, this is the remaining functional synagogue from more than 100 that existed pre-war.  It has an interesting Romanesque-Moorish style.  During the Holocaust around 95 per cent of Lithuanian Jews were murdered, the highest percentage in Europe.  Included were the vast majority of the 80,000 Jewish residents who lived in the city prior to the Nazi invasion of June 1941.

Rehearsal underway - even in the rain...

Concerts & Celebrations:  With the uni so close by it was hardly a surprise that the streets at night really rock.  The Cap’n disappeared both nights we were in town to the big stage set up on the Cathedral square for a little bit of loud, head-banging music.  He really had been missing his iPod; the victim of one too many indignities suffered whilst at sea…  These Autumn Celebrations (with accompanying night food market) hark back to pagan roots.  GS was pleased at least that the Cap’n chose concerts (and food) over a clandestine meeting of white witches on the old fort hill…. 

Iron Wolf

Vilnius, Lithuania.  Something Old

Look up!  Portico of Vilnius Cathedral

Medieval legend has it that Grand Duke Gediminas (1275-1341) of Lithuania dreamt of a huge iron wolf howling on a hilltop.  This was interpreted as a signal to build his capital, Vilnius, on that very hill.  So he did and today we walked the streets of this remarkable old town built at the foot of Gediminas’ wooden castle.  

Medieval Vilnius was a city built of wood and stood little chance of surviving fires that frequently raged.  From the beginning of the 15^th c however, buildings started to be constructed from brick and stone.  The Vilnius we visited has few buildings dating from Gothic and Renaissance times; mostly the architectural style is Baroque and Classicism. In 2009, the city celebrated its 1000^th year.  Vilnius’s Old Town is now UNESCO Heritage listed. 

Many of the buildings are positively dripping with age and bursting with stories to tell.  Some are still standing more-or-less as is, though most have been modified over years.  Vilnius has a rather hectic history.  So, here is a little walking tour – don’t worry it’s only a virtual stroll to take a look at a few of these structures. 

Stone Tower,
Castle of Gediminas

#1:  We’ll begin with the imposing Castle of Gediminas.  Standing proudly over the Old Town, the oldest, and only surviving structure of this complex is now the stone tower.  This existing modification dating form 1419 is thought to have been over a timber fort dating from 1009.  Hill forts, used since the Bronze Age as defensive measures, are built on the crown of a hill and provided fortified refuges or easily defended settlements.  During the Dukes Wars, these timber fortifications held ground against the Crusaders.

#2:  Now it’s over to Vilnius Cathedral.  King Mindaugas, who ruled 1251 -1263 (before our dreamer Gediminas), is said to have built the first Christian church in 1251 on the site of a pagan temple where the imposing, often modified Vilnius Cathedral has stood since 1491.  Its current white, “Greek Temple” exterior balances an imposing interior. 

Vilnius Cathedral
Bell Tower & more rain..

The Cathedral's free-standing bell tower, also subject to various modifications over the years, was originally part of a gate in the medieval lower city’s defensive walls.

Rain, grey skies continued to follow us.  We felt we weren't seeing the Baltic's best - city or countryside.  Ah well, it was a sure sign of approaching winter, so we should be thankful for rain rather than snow perhaps.

St Anne's Church

#3:  Next we have St Anne’s Church which was once a simple wooden church built in 1394 to honour Anna, the wife of Vytautas the Great, Grand Duke of Lithuania (1392-1430).  It, like others, morphed into a flamboyant grand design in 1495; now considered an unscathed, Gothic masterpiece.  Admirers include Napoleon (1812) who, it is said, expressed a wish to carry the church home in the palm of his hand.

#4:  Nearby is the Bernadine Monastery.  Although a busy day for brides despite the rain, we stopped briefly to admire this large Gothic church, with its later romantic additions.  It too, once formed part of the city’s defensive walls and was constructed over the site of an earlier timber church built by Bernadine monks in the mid 1400’s.  The church was again re-constructed in 1516 and its interior is said to have been quite stunning prior to the Soviet regime using it as a garage.  Restoration works however, continue revealing unique murals and brightly coloured frescoes.  The nearby Monastery, of the same era, now houses the Art Academy.  Lucky them!

Town Hall (and a bit of a car park at the time).
It was a big wedding day though with lots of decorated cars about.

#5:  In 1387, Lithuania became a Christian state and Vilnius was granted Magdeburg rights (town privileges).  Thus the need for a town hall to carry out those important administrative and community duties.  The current Town Hall has had many makeovers, and although mentioned in 1503, existed much earlier - 1403.  Its current classical structure was remodelled from Gothic plans in 1545, then again in 1799 largely due to fires and other less natural causes.  In 1812 Napoleon marched his disillusioned troops back through Vilnius on return from his Moscow campaign.  It is reported that some 40,000 troops died in Vilnius due to starvation and the extreme cold. 

#6:  The impressive Palace of the Grand Dukes was originally constructed at the foot of Castle Hill in Vilnius in 1441 for rulers of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania and future kings of Poland.  Managing to survive 4^th c sieges, it came under the renovator’s eye in 1520 when Italian architects were instructed to update it in fine Renaissance style.  For four centuries it was the political, administrative and cultural centre of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth until destroyed by Russians in 1802.  A complex and controversial project was undertaken in 2002 to restore the Palace and provide Vilnius with a symbol of its past glories. 

1630's Icon in
the Gate of Dawn

#7:  We leave the Old Town through the celebrated Gate of Dawn (1503), the one remaining chapel from the old defensive town walls.  In those days, an image of the Virgin Mary was placed above all gates to protect the city.  The icon in the chapel we can see is the Blessed Virgin Mary Mother of Mercy, painted in 1630.  This famous icon is housed in a small chapel above the gate and is believed to have miraculous powers.  The image remains the symbol of the city and a site of pilgrimage.  In 1993, the Pope held prayers at the Gate of Dawn Chapel.

#8:  St Casmire’s is the first and oldest Baroque church (1604), so pretty in pink that we just had to include it in our list of visits.  The original structure was burnt to the ground by Russians in 1655.  Like the unwavering phoenix, it rose from its ashes again and again until it was returned to the Catholic Church in 1988. 

Renovation has only recently been completed.  And yes, today there was a bride and a wedding underway!  How many churches do you expect to see in an historic old town anyway?  Oh yes, Vilnius is known as the City of Churches….

St Casmire's