Visiting Fjordland

Bergen, Norway

The Oslo to Bergen Rail is said to be one of life’s grand experiences.  Our journey took us up and over Norway’s highest peak at Finse (altitude:1222m) where snow was still visible on the ground then through Myrdal and Vloss.  It is said it is possible to see the blue ice of Hardangerjokul Glacier (to the southwest) though I’m not sure anyone recognised it…  Just so you're fully informed, this rail line runs at the highest altitude in Europe. 

So, as pictures tell more than words, here are (quite) a few shaky ones to see how amazing that view really was…

(GS decided to experiment with her polarising lens during this particular journey.  The result, like her mood at the end, was rather black & purple...and still lots of reflection from the train windows.  Oh well, and thank goodness for mobile phone cameras, isn’t it?)

Meeting A Few Locals

Oslo, Norway.  Be A Little Bit Athletic

We were exhausted by the mere thought of a strenuous walk up the hill to the Holmenkollen (ski jump) after our previous days of “hikes" around town, yet we did it.  So much for peer group pressure and a young, fit tour leader!  Sunday was spent admiring the impressive 360° view over Oslo from the top (accessed via lift) although we were equally impressed by the reserved folk who zip-lined down that shiny steel slope – a little singing before push-off maybe, and certainly no screams or shouting heard either...  

This is the quick way down...no thanks!

On the way down, (the slow way, in the lift!) we stopped briefly to take in the world’s oldest ski museum, take a photo of a huge (stuffed) polar bear & moose and admire the skinny ski pants worn so successfully by Norwegian girls. 

 

If your head is spinning at our fast-paced itinerary, then be aware we’ve only skimmed the surface.  Oslo has museums and attractions enough to satisfy even the most demanding visitor. 

The whole process made so much easier with our Oslo Passes…worth every cent, even if we did have to queue for 40 minutes to buy them!  Sightseeing out of the way then, it was time to move on to shopping and eating – more favourite pastimes in Oslo.  We did our best. 

This fellow to the left, attractively dressed in glass bottles, was in the Mini Bottle Gallery. 

And of course, down near the dock we found an India Mela in full swing featuring both Bolly and Reggae (music).  As an added attraction, this amazingly decorated truck was parked to one side. 

 

Finding the Artist Wiithin

Oslo, Norway. Cutting Edge Art

Artwork in the Oslo Harbour

To shake the sea water out of our ears, we managed to visit a few art museums as well.  Oslo has as many art galleries as maritime options and by chance, we had stumbled upon the Munch Museum during our earlier “assimilation” hike.  

This summer’s exhibition was SUPER special - a parallel in the careers of Van Gogh and Norwegian artist, Edvard Munch, with a grand supporting cast of many of their ilk. (No photos allowed, so this one of his work is from the National Gallery...)  

Cottages at the Norsk Folk Museum

The vast Norsk Folk Museum, a recreated living history museum, deserved more time and attention than we were able to give to it.  Over 160 historic traditional buildings (some dating from 1500) have been relocated to the site and furnished appropriate to period.  Docents dress in traditional costume and offer opportunities to experience folk dancing and music, meet artisans (weavers, potters or silversmiths) or simply watch the routine of life in the Old Town.  Today was the day for peeling spuds! 

Then it was on to the Museum of Contemporary Art

From traditional to challenging, the Museum of Contemporary Art was next on the list.  The major exhibition was a collection of works showcasing the Arte Povera movement (1968-2015). 

“Poor Art” artists express their concerns over consumerism and commercialisation of the art world.  These pieces are not meant to match your lounge room curtains or inspire jealousy in your neighbours. 

So if you were wondering if your washing went missing, perhaps you've lost a few door draft stoppers or need a carriage for an assertive teenager, this may be the show for you.  (Actually, I quite liked the carriage even though it's a bit creepy...)  

Finally, just enough time for a really quick spin through the National Gallery 

Then it was off to the National Gallery; it closed at 5pm.  Could we do it?  Housing the largest collection of art in Norway, this has to be one organised venue and the permanent collection “Livets dans” (The Dance of Life) beautifully meets that challenge.  Rooms of exhibits are assembled in order, flowing gently through Antiquity to Baroque; Romanticism; Impressionism to Munch; and Modernism to the1950’s. 

The emphasis of course, is on Norwegian artists.  Rooms are numbered, explanations succinct and if on limited time (like me), then it is entirely possible to scoot around and pick up the historical essence.  The “wow factor” and quality of exhibits however is high, so it was rather difficult not to get snagged whilst doing the rounds. 

And then on the way home, admire more interesting modern artworks along the docks.

Later that evening, we met up with our enthusiastic Intrepid Tour Leader, Sanni and the rest of the tour group at the designated hotel.  We had learned by now a couple of tricks that make touring life easier.  

#1.  Get to your destination a few days before the tour to familiarise yourself with the area and get over any jet-lag.  We needed to recover from all those boat cleaning tasks.

#2.  Stay in the hotel where the group is due to meet up. 

Sailing for the Rugged Outdoors

Oslo, Norway.  A Maritime Influence

The sailor within was summonsed and dutifully we responded.  In these surroundings, It was hard not to.... 

Oslo’s history goes back to Viking days (787-1070), so we boned up (sorry!) on the history of these intrepid seafarers at the Viking Museum.  The Vikings once controlled half of Britain, managed to reach Newfoundland and Ireland, and also find the Med.   All in big open rowing boats.  You can’t help but be impressed. 

The three royal burial barges at the Museum were, with a surprising amount of burial goods, only fairly recently discovered (1904-05).  Items vary from leather shoes to intricately carved wheeled wagons, including horses and bullocks. 

Interestingly, the best preserved and most elaborate was Oseberg, the burial conveyance for a Viking Queen. Although this elaborate craft was buried in 834 AD, it may well date from 800 AD.  Some of the elaborately carved items found with it, including two sleighs, were quite amazing, both in their delicate carving and in their condition after so many years.   

Viking Leather Boots

The Cap’n was up for more things maritime so he continued exploring options offered over on the lushly rural Bygdoy Peninsular. 

The Kon-Tiki Museum presents an insight into Thor Heyerdahl’s epic ocean voyages; firstly on the basic, balsa raft, Kon-Tiki (1947), followed by papyrus reed boats (1970).  His intent was to track migratory voyages of ancient peoples across the Pacific. 

The Fram Museum is everything polar.  Centre stage is given to Fram, a famous polar exploration ship, built in 1892; serious construction for a serious environment. However the supporting act, all things to do with polar expeditions, proved equally fascinating.  The Gjoa, in 1906, was the first ship to transit the Northwest Passage.  Adventurous stuff in most inhospitable environments! 

Pretty summer cabins on one of the many islands that dot Oslo's harbour

The Maritime Museum (can there ever be too much about boats?) was next on the list to grasp Norway’s leading role as a shipping nation and in particular, maritime exploration.  The panorama video of Norway’s famous coastline completely captivated the Cap’n. 

Finally, we took a quick spin around the inner harbour (of the vast Oslofjord) on a mini-cruise on a rather splendid antique sailing craft.  Were we looking at prospective marina or a replacement for WJ3 then?

We were I think, sailing on the back of one very fine Indian summer.  Would it last?  Who knows - but we had great hopes.  Although sailing the Baltic has perhaps been removed from our list given that we'd rather complain about the heat than the cold!

Akershus Fortress (1290) built to protect Oslo

Velkommen til Norge

Oslo, Norway.

In a mere 3½ air hours, we had left 35°C in Greece far, far behind for a mild 15°.  And no humidity!  Welcome to Norway where there’s no bad weather, only bad clothing (so we’re told…). 

Oslo is a pretty city centred on a spectacular harbour.  On a sunny day it makes you want to go sailing.  No wonder the country has a past so closely linked to seafaring.  The first thing you notice in Oslo, aside from its cleanliness, is that tall, blonde, fit and healthy describes locals.  There are green spaces everywhere and riding bicycles seems to be a national pastime - although fitness probably comes more from time spent Nordic skiing!  We also noticed a distinct lack of attachment to mobile phones – people communicated in the old fashioned way and seemed rather to be enjoying it.  We pinched ourselves for a minute. 

Had we landed on the set of The Truman Show?

So, on a beautiful (mild) summer’s day, we set off on a walking tour – a hike - suggested in our Free Map for Young Travellers (and laugh if you must!). 

Our destinations included “vintage shopping, hipsters in parks, multi-culti Toyen and colourful Gronland”.  Walking time: 90 minutes; we took 4 hours…  Our hike  covered everything from Indian fabrics, the local prison, botanic gardens, grills cooking in the park, to Paddington style cool.  And, at a nearby Thai Restaurant, time for fanging - our first red curry for quite some time!

This is the 2015 Intrepid Scandinavia & Baltic Tour
we had signed up for.  It kept us busy for almost a month.