Chasing Columbus

Las Palmas, Canary Islands

After a rather layzee Christmas Day, and with a plan to head off in a few days (the weather looked promising), we needed to pedal off those few pounds gained so took to an extensive network of bike paths.  We followed the foreshore route behind the marina down to Veguela, the historic precinct and site of the original settlement in 1478. 

Canary Yellow used in profusion in Old Veguela

A walk past the markets roused our appetite, so we continued roaming narrow cobbled streets looking for something tempting.  We found a hole-in-the-wall eatery just around the corner from the Columbus museum where we feasted on a delightful selection of homemade tapas, GS hurriedly writing notes as our host detailed his creations.  Thus energised, we set off to explore Casa de Colon (House of Columbus).

Tapas for Lunch.  With coffee as only local's can drink it
 & that's all you get in a cup!

Don’t you just love those old-style villas (after the Roman model) where solid walls present to the street shielding occupants from noise and presumably attackers.  Rooms line these walls and from balconies, fine views can be had over a central courtyard garden, a well or water feature.  This was not, of course, Columbus’s house but rather one owned by an official who was sufficient in rank to be entertaining (and accommodating) The Admiral of the Ocean Sea.  The building itself has been beautifully restored, including deep cellars and a tunnel network.  Rooms now hold various displays giving insight into those historic and world-changing four voyages.  Detail is added with descriptions of life on board, a collection of seriously old maps (including Piri Reis*), souvenired Central American pottery & statues and fascinating terrain models, one of thin layers of cork, detailing Veguela’s layout in the late 15^th c.

One of the rather impressive doorways into Casa de Colon

Birds with style & attitude

A replica of Columbus's Cabin
befitting the Admiral of the Ocean Seas at the Museum

From Casa de Colon, we circled the Cathedral hoping to see inside.  It was not our day but at least we had two other options; one a lift to the bell tower and the second, a gallery of sacred art.  The Cap’n rolled his eyes at the thought of yet another art collection, so we took in the stunning views over the port and busy city-scape of Las Palmas.  Back down to earth, we sat in the Cathedral square, decorated with dog statues and palms, listening to a chattering green parrot.  No canaries made themselves obvious in the canary island date palms fronds, so we made for the nearest supermarket to begin provisioning for the trip ahead.

Las Palmas Cathedral 

(*The Admiral Piri Reis Map created in Constantinople in 1513 is said to challenge conventional understanding of world history.  Notions of a vanished civilization are explored in Graham Hancock’s book, “Fingerprints of the Gods” and whether you subscribe to his theories or not, the read and the ride back in history really does make you think.  And no, its not related to that other best-selling nonsense (but a fun read), “Chariots of the Gods”.)