It’s a Tree (not Sea) Change

Back in February 2020, we began planning for our usual overseas adventure.  It always takes a few months to organise ourselves.  The Galley Slave had found some great fares for our flights to the US and consulted the Cap'n.  “I’d wait,” he said.  “Things don’t look good.”  So here we are at the close of 2021.  Still waiting.  Still not looking particularly promising…

That’s not to say, of course, that we’ve been idle.  The Cap’n turned his hand to maintenance of his “home fleet” and those many outstanding home repairs (long neglected) that go hand in hand with living in a timber shack in the land of termites.  The Galley Slave began a major photo re-organisation project.  It’s finally nearing completion in 2021.  (I know, I know, she’s leaning towards the OCD type.)  However, with a gentle slide into Autumn and cooler weather this year, it was time to take a (sanity) break and tame the garden.  She, meanwhile, hit the garden shed, her quilt room in the garden, before winter sent us both back inside to sit by a warm cosy fire.

View over the Hawkesbury River
(and the Cap'n hard at work scrubbing bottoms)

After 12 years of summer seasons and some 25,000 nm on the good ship WJ3, it was rather nice to take time out to live in our local community, to spend time with our boys and get to know the grandkids better.  Lockdowns (within the confines of our local government area) had put a bit of a muzzle on any travel ambitions.  Even a 20-minute drive to the local supermarket added a real thrill to our week – it was outside the 5km limit!  So, to otherwise amuse ourselves, we’ve undertaken some big clean-ups inside and out, replaced a few bits of furniture & the barbie, ripped up a deck or three (ehem, still “under reconstruction”), put up a pole to fly the flag and otherwise enjoyed our life on the river.

Stuck on the mudbank!  Our trusty Cap'n & neighbour Chris
doing a bit of rescue work in the tinnie, yet again...

Fortunately, both boys have remained employed in steady jobs, although one moved out into country NSW, to an arborist’s job in Bathurst.  Managing to successfully combine raising the littlies, study and work, Miss V finished Uni and almost immediately found a great job in Gosford.  Under her watchful eye, Dancing Queen, Miss P, has just finished her second year of school (and home schooling with school closures) and possible sailing apprentice/crew, Master D turned a big “4”. 

Celebrating a significant birthday with a floating picnic
(Monty tied down to protect the food!)

A bit of tree trimming, Bathurst style

We’re beginning to wonder how we ever found the time to go sailing.  WJ3 sits quietly in the boatyard in Deltaville, just metres away from the beautiful Chesapeake Bay, on the North American east coast.  She is being well looked after but must by now, feel somewhat neglected.  Our long-term plans change by the day, dependent largely on inviting travel doco’s on the telly.  We’ve become such couch potatoes!  The Cap’n though, still dreams of completing his 1975 circumnavigation...  In the short term though, it’s really back to just pottering about in a boat, and any boat will do for now. 

Sailors in the making

Merry Christmas to all and here’s hoping for a much brighter Year in 2022.

Time to Go Home

Deltaville Boat Yard: 28 October

Firing up the BBQ

Firing up the Bagpipes (Nick)

Yes, it’s time to go home.  Overnight temperatures dropped to a low of 10C and we’re scratching to find enough blankets & quilts to keep warm.  Dress of the day for us includes fashionable navy blue thermals.  Locals are out in jeans, cowboy boots and stetson hats (rather like a bushman's Akubra only pushed up on both sides).  We’ve spent the last two days locked down in the marina with solid rain and winds gusting 30kts.  More is on the way.  Today is a good day to be working on the ‘net but the Cap’n is itching to start our final big cleaning effort.  That translates, of course, to ordering heaps from Amazon.  Sigh.

Tomorrow promises a nice day, which is just as well.  Deltaville Maritime Museum have organised an Art & Seafood Fest (with a band at lunchtime) so we might escape for a few hours to catch the last of the season’s crabs and admire local talent.  

Pickin' crabs with Kenny

Just a sample of the daily catch

Old Time Tipple: Sangee (sangria)

Our only real difficulty in leaving will be zipping suitcases closed.  GS has had a spending spree at Wal Mart.  So there's a forecast for tantrums....

Waiting in the Marina for Hurricane Dorian

End of Season

Our figures for 2019 came in as follows:

From: Deltaville, USA Lat/Long: 37:33.116N 76:19.817W Date/Time: 3/05/19: 1500

To: Deltaville, USA Lat/Long: 37:32.966N 76:19.805W  Date/Time: 23/10/19: 0935

Time Taken: (this year): 62 hrs  Distance: (this year): 367nm

Distance Total: (since 2008): 25,111nm  

Weather: From basking in famous Southern swelter to dodging hurricanes.  We've had it all this year.  Really had to keep our eye on the weather as predictions didn't often go as planned. 

Fastest Speed:  This was the year of OWM (Other Woman’s Makeover).  Fairly substantial “surgery” in the mechanical and electrical departments, with some head-scratching still needed to resurrect the generator. 

Lighthouses traditionally mean "keep away"
Aren't we a wee bit close?

Birthday Bash

Some days were just perfect 

And a final Farewell rings out over Jackson Creek

One Last Fling

Annapolis: 10^th October

Annapolis hosts boat shows.  BIG Boat Shows.  There’s one just for hot water (motor) boats then another for sailboats.  Then there’s others.  So, if boats are your bent, Annapolis is the place to be in October for floating wonders and a visual feast.  We chose to drool over sailboats and wanted to explore “apartment living qualities” of modern catamarans – just lookin’.  At the show, you can buy every gadget imaginable, speak to equipment specialists, climb aboard any boat of your choosing, book a holiday (charter) to any destination with/without a deserted island (except for the beach bar selling rum punches, of course), or get to speak with world famous sailors.  Lin Pardey was surrounded so we missed a chat.  So were the very popular Vloggers, La Vagabonde, if you want a more youthful approach to the cruising life.  It’s impossible to do everything in a day we’ve learned.  But never mind, that was enough…

Oh, I don't know - they all look the same to me...

Build you own trailer & kayak - now that's living tiny!

The weather of late had not been promising; we had a rough but fast trip north.  Solomons Island provided a safe overnighter and surprisingly, there were only a few on anchor.  Continuing rough weather kept the punters from anchoring in Weems Creek (Annapolis) too; a favourite spot and usually very busy at this time of year.  Lucky for us.  Well, that’s all the luck we had, other than a sunny, warm day for the boat show and free tickets (thanks to a nice lady who didn’t need them) to get in.  The Cap’n had his trusty bicycle stolen at the supermarket (just opposite a huge Police Station, if you please!).  So, we’ve taken up walking.  It’s conducive to good health and a hearty appetite… You should try it too!

Lots of boats = one happy Cap'n

Not the easiest to see, this patriotic crabber flying his Trump supporter flag

Leavin' Deltaville Blues

Deltaville Maritime Centre: 28^th September

Our last full day happily coincided with the last market of the year at the Deltaville Maritime Museum.  It was a nice day for it, though vendor numbers were down. Despite the lovely day, high summer markets seem to attract bigger crowds.  We explored the market, the museum and the grounds along Mill Creek, made a few purchases then headed back to WJ3 to rest up.  A band had been promised for the evening’s entertainment and it was definitely going to treat our Aussie guests with a taste of wild, down-home Bluegrass. 

Wish we had a recording, not just a photo, of  guest fiddle player (with Rappahannock Crossing)

Bluegrass is said to have originated in the Appalachian region in the 1940’s.  Well, let me tell you, Rappahannock Crossing were fantastic.  They had a surprise guest who played the fiddle like he was born to it (I guess he was!).  Brilliant.  Heather’s sangria kept us well oiled, though our final dinner with our guests, from the on-site Food Concession, was especially Southern (burgers, hot dogs and fries).  Still, I guess by now they’d experienced a range of interesting menus (isn't that why we travel?), some more forgettable than others.

Happy Birthday, Mr M

Mr M, our willing and hardworking crew, was surprised on departure day with a yummy birthday breakfast (cooked by our brekky chef, Cap'n) and some mementos of his time on board WJ3.  Too soon though, it was time to bid Mr & Mrs Magpie farewell at Richmond Airport.  It had been an exhausting itinerary but I think (hope) we all had fun.

Even better, it was great for the Motley’s to have ditched mooring lines and for WJ3 to stretch her wings.  She likes to roam and as her owners, we like to encourage her in things she does best.

Simon brought his girlfriends over to say goodbye to Mr & Mrs Magpie

Lunch at Elkwallow

Blue Ridge Mountains: 27^th September

Huge vistas over Shenandoah Valley

SkylineDrive follows the heart of The Blue Ridge Mountains and is a core route through Shenandoah National Park.  It has plenty of viewpoints, some side access roads (with fascinating names – Rockfish Gap and Swift Run Gap), a number of wayside stops (we lunched at Elkwallow) and plenty of things to do if hiking, meeting wildlife nose-to-nose, or photography is your bent.  We were warned to watch for bears. Yup, grizzlies (or maybe it was just photos of grizzlies).  The bears were too busy to bother with us, though the Magpies did spot a deer or two.  Sadly, fall foliage was not out on display (mid to late October, I’m told by Park Wardens but check out the link above) but the scenery over Shenandoah Valley and across the park was superb.

Oh look, I've just seen a deer!

St Mary's Rock Tunnel (1932)

Photo opportunity stops gave our chauffeur plenty of breaks; still, it was a long run across to Fredericksburg, then down along the Rappahannock River to Deltaville.  It was rather pleasant to finally be back on board enjoying our peaceful marina life.  I think we all slept well after our time away setting quite the pace as tourists-on-the-go.

The only fall colour we found...

Even Park Facilities were nicely situated

Well, kinda sorta!  Land touring really takes your mind off things like weather.  We noted that in our absence, Hurricane’s Karen and Lorenzo were spinning just off the coast.  Karen, after threatening the Caribbean, had lost a little puff, weakening to Tropical Storm intensity.  Lorenzo had other ideas and was busy building muscle to Cat 5, with an eye on the Azores.  Our guests were just so pleased we had managed to arrange for a little memento or two of their visit to east-coast US; aptly named if you know the Magpies.  Gotta love September!

Fall colours were about (some artfully arranged), everywhere else though

Seeking Quilts & Covered Bridges

Lancaster: 26^th September

Our hotel overlooked a green and thriving farm, so we were awe-struck from the first to see a buggy passing by.  And another on our way out to dinner.  It is indeed an incredible relationship between a culture that rejects the modern world and the frenzy of the commercial world that has grown up around them because of their beliefs.

Aside from sightseeing, Mrs M & I realised this was our opportunity to shop (just a little).  So, armed with a large map and our TTD (things-to-do list), we marked off a route for our chauffeur (now known as Cap’n Martini.  And not because he likes to live life dangerously!) that might cover some of those choices.  Simplistically, that list (not in priority order and specific to our timetable) and our chosen venues were:

• Market:  Bird-in-Hand Farmers’ Market
• Roadside Stall: Bird-in-Hand Bakery (Route 340) or Countryside Road Stand (Stumptown Rd – no time left to stop at this one)
• Visitor Information Centre: Ran out of time for this; bought books about Amish and Mennonite culture to enlighten us instead.
• Covered Bridge or two: Willow’s Hill (Witmer Rd) and Hunsecker’s Mill (Hunsecker Rd) or a an itinerary with lots more.
• Quilt Shop or several: Old Country Quilt Store (only made this one)
• Quilt/Textile Museum: Sadly, both Lancaster Museums had closed. It would be interesting to know where those collections are now held.
• Selection of Shops: Kitchen Kettle Village, and
• Scenic Vistas: There were plenty of self-drive options but we went for a quick spin on a zig-zag route between Routes 340 and 23.

We found local roads quite narrow with few places to pull over.  Stopping at covered bridges was difficult too; Willow Mill we think, had been relocated?  The country-side is fantastically lush and the farms just so pristine.  We tried not to bother people and took photos of landscapes, farms and machinery from a distance.  Produce in the market was fresh and it was nice to browse, observe locals working at ease and see some lovely home-made items.  

It was a challenge to resist whoopie pie (and other delectables) at the bakery though the quilt block house templates were rather attractive but too big for already over-weight, over-stuffed suitcases.  We took a pleasant lunch break at the Corner Coffee Shop, admiring fine furniture (I’m now thinking shipping containers) before hitting the Old Country Store (a spectacular quilt shop) then finishing up with a quick sprint through Kitchen Kettle Village.  

Our final offering though, is that it is quite possible to enjoy the Amish experience without having spent a fortune, getting in their way or feeling that we were in an Entertainment Heartland – oh wait, we were!  And best of all, both Mr M & our trusty driver survived the whole "site seeing and shopping ordeal" with humour in tact.  

Naturally, Mrs M & I had NO trouble filling our day (and the boot of our car).  The next day however, was “long-drive-home day”, 10 hours no less, and the Cap’n needed his martini to help him relax in preparation.  So it was, we were up and off bright and early in the morning fog, following our trusty aged Garmin, heading for Front Royal, VA and the start of the Skyline Drive.

We sourced our information from D&K's USA Guide Book, Trip Adviser, Discover Lancaster website; and spent a lot of time online researching…  

A Lesson in Civility

Gettysburg:24-25^th September

Battlefield at Gettysburg

Deltaville came and quickly went as we settled into the marina, then tossed a few items into bags for the next leg of our journey with the Magpies.  We’d picked up a rental car at Gloucester, looked longingly at Wal Mart, then quickly sped on to Gettysburg.  Our combo of a 10 year old Garmin and Google maps (on the phone) was certainly put to the test.  It was a bit of a drive, skirting Washington DC (too close for comfort) yet somehow, we timed it perfectly to cross the road to a lively “pub”, the Appalachian Brewing Company, with a German inspired menu.  Amongst the offerings were fritters, potato pancakes with apple sauce and a pudd called elephant ear (a large donut stretched free form, deep fried, dusted with sugar and spice and served with a mountain of vanilla ice-cream).  Well, someone had to suffer in the name of curiosity!  One thing for sure though, American’s eat fried, eat quickly and eat early, so we were almost last out the door. 

Impressive display and comprehensive overview at the Gettysburg Diorama

Next morning recharged, we hit Gettysburg’s offerings.  We were now in Civil War era (1861-1865) and ready to understand how the three-day battle at Gettysburg (1863) changed the outcome of the war.  Here too, President Abraham Lincoln gave the “Gettysburg Address”.  With only a day and so many choices, it was hard to narrow them down.  First list casualty was the self-guided driving tour, although the country-side was very beautiful.  Our lack of knowledge about the battle also meant driving the extensive Battlefield and surrounds was also off the list.  So what to do?

Battle-scarred side wall (hard to see)

We started with the Gettysburg Diorama, a scale model of the battleground with a short sound & light show describing the events over those three days.  It was an excellent beginning, and after a short walk around town, we all agreed that the Battlefield Visitors Centre was to be next on our list.  There, the introductory film, fantastic Cyclorama (the background was a mural painted in 1883 by French artist, Paul Philippoteaux recording the events) and well-stocked museum kept us busy for more than a few hours.  To complete the day, Cap’n History Buff (currently reading Nero) and his Mate, took off on a guided bus tour of the Battlefield, which they later described as excellent.  GS and Mrs Magpie waited in the coffee shop working on a plan (to cover as much as humanly possible) for sightseeing Lancaster the following day.