Saturday, November 15, 2014

Following Ancient Lives

Plovdiv, Bulgaria
Come on guys, you'll miss the train to Plovdiv
Armed with a couple of litres of melnik courtesy of our host, we made for the train station in Bankso and anticipated a snowy adventure through steep mountains.  The trains were warm, platforms not, so we had a wee wait for a connecting train at a town with a rather difficult name.  Correct pronunciation it seems, was related to quantities of melnik consumed; hang-overs from the previous day/night included.  We knew this sturdy red wine would come in handy for something!
Train Waiting at What_Name Station?
Plovdiv was our last fling – last for Bulgaria, and essentially the end of our trip.  The old town, Stari Grad, was charming, an easy place to lose yourself and explore.  Be warned, the hills are steep and the cobbles life-threatening.  Seriously, the old town is said to predate Athens, Rome and Constantinople (Istanbul) with its Thracian fort ruins (5000 BC Eumolpias), scattering of Roman relics, Ottoman mosques, medieval structures and baroque timber mansions.  Angelina led us on a breathless “stream of consciousness” tour around the main sites before we were let loose to discover according to our own whims.
Nebet Tepe (Prayer Hill) with walls from Eumolpias, 5000 BC

Reconstructed Roman Amphitheatre (discovered 1970)
built during reign of Emperor Trajan

Hisar Kaplya, medieval eastern gate 11th c
reconstruction of Roman walls

Bulgarian Revival - Lamartine House (1829)

One of many fixer-upper mansions in the old district
GS took in the Ethnographic Museum (1847) set in an elegant baroque mansion and beautiful gardens, made a B-line for an antiques shop with textiles, and finally meditated over artworks in the City Art Gallery.  The Cap’n, seizing an opportunity for self-determination, made for the Archaeological Museum though spent his time next door reflecting over Bulgaria’s National Revival (modern history).  There was a little time left to shop in Kapana (judiciously called The Trap) and have a hot chocolate in pedestrianised Knyaz Aleksandar Street before making for the bus station and our midnight border rendezvous.
Ethnographic Museum - as interesting for the building as its collection

Interior - a life for the privileged

Antique Textiles - oh yes, please!

Art in the making _ near the City Art Gallery

No comments:

Post a Comment