There’s a Change on the Way

Funeral Barge_Naval Pavillion

Venice, Italy.  Exploring all options

In the early evening of 8^th July, we noted our barometer steadily dropping.  In truth, we had never seen it so low (993) and wondered what was in store.  Just to be sure, we cleared decks, doubled lines and took down the sun awning.  By 10.30pm we were rocked by steadily increasing winds and doused by heavy rain.  Further to our west though, the town of Dolo was sadly being decimated by a tornado.  We had no idea – no TV, and at the time, no internet.  We have dubbed WJ3’s saloon, the “Hall of Ignorance”. 

This rain did bring with it cooler weather – a real bonus for us, but our previous late night’s faffing about meant a modified early rise.  We arrived at Piazza San Marco at the same time as 3 or 4 cruise ship’s worth of passengers and so further modified our plans for the day, as you would too. 

Honey, I think that cruise ship's about to head up our street...

Aside from regular “things to do” in Venice, this is the Year of the Biennale (said “bee any arly”).  There is little info available about this extensive exhibition scattered throughout the city (and only a few freebie events/exhibitions), which was enough to convince Cap’n Artless that we were not interested.  Actually, we didn’t have time in our busy schedule! 

The Doge’s Palace however offered an extension on its popular Henri Rousseau Exhibition and with NO queue (& no photos either!) we were tempted.  There weren’t as many of Rousseau’s famous works as I had expected but it was well thought out and set through various private Palace apartments.  The showing also included works by those artists who influenced, and those influenced by, him. 

Famous singing Gondoliers

This then, was a confection including Kandinsky, Picasso, Gaugin, Diego Riviera, Frida Kahlo and one very special Odilon Redon (to name but a few). The Cap’n passes on the following for your edification: “It was Rousseau who began in Western culture the worship of the child, innocent and perfect in nature". It’s in the novel he’s currently reading?!??  Is all this culture going to his head…  At least he knows from experience it ain't necessarily so - sorry boys! 

Next stop then was the Naval Museum, repository of Venice's extensive naval history, only to find it temporarily closed for renovations. Venice was without doubt the supreme naval power over many years (1380 to 1718) and many forts line the Med to attest to this.  We've come across many Venetian forts, including recently, Chania in Crete; Palermos & Butrint in Albania; not to mention the two ruins flanking the run into Prevezza.  

The winged Lion was a symbol of the great Venetian Empire

The Doge's Ceremonial Barge - the Bucintoro.  With those oars, it probably only travelled the Grand Canal.

The Ships Pavilion however was open and we were able to indulge in some traditional timber boaty stuff.  There was a good selection of craft on view, all made in Venice and no doubt many at the Arsenale.  The funeral barge was exceptionally funereal, all black and ghostly, and perhaps got a good work out during the city’s two major plague catastrophes.  The Cap’n briefly wondered about a little gold leaf work on WJ3 after seeing the Doge’s Barge, but decided that having oars requires oarsmen/women and given our lack of visitors over the years, we could still be 8 years down the track, rowing in circles off the British Virgin Islands.  GS though, wanted to trade in the Dangar Island runabout for a sleek Riva.

A Riva convention at our Marina...forget the MGB, these are seriously cool!

We finished the day at a pretty little outdoor eatery in Sant Elena (Osteria al Pampo) - well, the only one really! - and had a very nice cold, mixed fish starter followed by spaghetti with clams (lagoon locals) or crab.  We decided we needed to take proper pasta eating lessons from our Italian rellies before next year’s season.  We chatted for hours to our dining neighbour, Canadian Claude, who was also sailing his way around the world.  Only sensibly, on a cruise ship.