A Romantic Notion

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

(Warning: much camera fodder follows, click, click, click!)

We had planned, on arrival, for a few afternoon hours to explore the old town in Munich.  However, it was not to be.  A forest fire sent the ICE scuttling back to Bamburg where we sat (2 hours patiently) waiting for clearance to recommence our journey.  There was talk of re-routing to another line but it wasn’t clear if we did.  Who could tell what towns we sped past!  Travel at this pace adds a whole new dimension to the romance of train travel - not!  Munich Hauptbahnhof (Central Station) was exceptionally busy when we finally arrived, but we thought little of it given the number of trains delayed by the fires.  

Later, we were to realise it was the beginnings of the refugee/illegal migrant crisis, with thousands arriving by train that day.  Munich was also busy preparing for the Oktoberfest and the annual onslaught of lederhosen clad tourists this brings.  We made a quick dash for our hotel leaving the chaos behind.

Intriguing Rothenburg

Next morning we made tracks for the Gray Line bus departure point, opposite the station & our hotel.  Our day (over 10 hours!) was to be spent travelling part of the famous Romantic Road, a 420 km road that links Wurzburg to Fussen with delightful country views, attractive medieval towns and imposing castles dotted along the way.  This road was once a section of an ancient (Roman) trade route through southern Germany.  Now a popular tourist destination, the area really does retain that picture-postcard charm promised in tourist brochures.

Inside the Castle Walls at Harburg

First stop was tiny Schloss Harburg.  This diminutive castle dates to 1150.  Some constructions on the site though are believed to have existed earlier and evidence of Roman habitation has been found.  Schloss Harburg was a stronghold of the medieval Staufer Kings (1138 – 1268) and later pledged to the Count of Oettingen (1295).  It has been in this same family line ever since, although it’s understood that Michael Jackson once made an offer.  Yes, the castle is sheer fairy tale.

Harburg Castle was constructed as a medieval stronghold and thankfully has been maintained to this end, surviving most wars and catastrophes.  Its grounds include the castle house, chapel, prison tower –with functioning loo (well, not now of course!), dungeon, courtyard & deep well, timbered sentry wall walk and six towers.  

We had a private tour booked and escorted by a guide started at the central courtyard working our way around many of the castle’s nooks & crannies. We remained well away from their hotel and restaurant area though!  At one stage we had the good fortune to be able to gaze at the owner's family tree lavish with crests (in the Granary?) and could only wonder at being able to trace your family back over all those years. Impressive! 

Back on the bus, we hit the road only to discover that our journey took us through the Swarbian Crater, a massive leftover of meteorite action some 15 million years ago.  Yes, it was only in 1961 that authorities decided a meteorite (about 1km wide) had impacted with our lovely blue planet on this very spot causing a crater some 4km deep and 25 km wide.  (Apparently, heat and pressure would have decimated everything within seconds for a 100km radius.)  Not that you would notice anything out of the ordinary today.  Still, I'm keeping my eyes peeled....


Main Gate Rothenburg

Rothenburg ob der Tauber was THE attraction of the day.  Luckily we had a few hours to relax and really explore this lovely old town.  It too survived the worst of the war years and its medieval profile maintained against all odds.  Today, Rothenburg is considered the most perfectly preserved medieval town in Europe, so quaint it seems pure fantasy. 

Mmmm, well that means lots of tourists too but on a Sunday with some shops closed (including a patchwork shop!!) we were able to take our time to wander the town, climb the stairs to walk the wall and wonder at some stunning architecture.  It’s almost possible to walk the complete circumference of the fortified town with plenty of cobbled side streets to admire cute cottages, covered bridges and delightful gardens. 

We stopped briefly for lunch – a German sausage on a bread roll (naturally), and later giant helpings of apple cake – then just strolled the town, enjoying the ambience and sunshine.  I think we need to live here….

 

Walking the Sentry Walk - Inside the Walls

Formidable Exterior Walls