A Vision Most Splendid

Bavaria, Germany

Schloss Neuschwanstein (Wiki)



And nearby Schloss Hohenschwangau

Ludwig II's Coronation (1865) (Wiki)

Mad or just plain gifted, King Ludwig II of Bavaria (1864 – 1886) was, by virtue of his royal crown and capacity to fund extravagant projects, one of the world’s most fascinating characters.  His life story is full of intrigue, mystery and sadness; a man out of step with the machinations of a roiling political system and the lofty ambitions of others.  Yes, he was decidedly odd but when confronted with the drama of his famous architectural achievements, you want to hail this most creative spirit and be grateful that he was given the space to develop them to (almost) fruition.

King Ludwig spent his early years with freedom to explore one of the world’s most picturesque corners, the Barvarian Alps.  His home, the fabulous sun-yellow Schloss Hohenschwangau (built 1832 - 1836) was no ordinary structure, and in many ways set a precedent for Ludwig’s castle concepts.  His father, Maximillian II, rebuilt this Neo-Gothic palace over the ruins of a stronghold held by the former Schwangau knights.  It is decorated throughout with frescoes depicting German history and legend, the swan a key motif.  The story of the Swan Knight, Lohengrin, and the operas and music of Richard Wagner were to be major influences on young Ludwig.

Upon attaining the crown, King Ludwig II was considered an enthusiastic leader.  He had schools and colleges built to improve the educational level of the Bavarian people, supported arts and crafts through various programs and had a charitable heart, being one of the first to support Henri Dunant’s “Red Cross” movement.  Following the creation of the German Reich in 1871, Ludwig was increasingly isolated and thanks to Bismark, kept busy with pots of money.  His obsession with the Sun King, Louis XIV of France, drew him to plan grand castles, lavishly decorated - all inspired by Louis’ absolute power and extravagant tastes.  Similarly inspired by Wagner’s operas, he also explored grand themes of legend and romance wanting to create and retreat to, a spiritual paradise.

Schloss Linderhoff

Schloss Linderhof seems bigger (& certainly grander) than it looks

Schloss Linderhof, a Rocco vision completed over nine years (1878), was our first stop of the day.  Built on the site of his father’s hunting lodge (moved only a short distance away), this tiny palace is Ludwig’s only completed dream.  Set in landscaped grounds manicured to perfection, this fascinating palace speaks volumes of Ludwig’s artistic capability - he was a set designer extraordinaire.  The grounds include a lake (with resident evil swans attempting to improve their annual statistics of wounded tourists), man-made waterfalls, grottos, follies, fountains and mysterious kiosks.  Diminutive Linderhof takes centre stage and somehow, the short guided tour of this wondrous gem is over oh, so soon.  It is said that Linderhof was Ludwig’s favourite, that he spent much of his time here surrounded by its beauty.  Who could not?  One of his favourite pastimes was to ride around the estate at night.  His plans for a fantastical swan sleigh were sadly never realised; at least we are left with the drawings.

Schloss Linderhof (Wiki)

Gardens at Linderhof

And grand sculptures too

Schloss Newschwanstein


Romantic Schloss Neuschwanstein (Wiki)
Does this fairytale view remind you of another?  Yes, Walt Disney
based his magic kingdom castle on  Neuschwanstein

Building commenced on nearby Schloss Neuschwanstein in 1869.  It is easy to understand the magic Ludwig felt, not only for the area but its magnificent scenery.  His castle, built perched high on Swan Rock, would celebrate these surroundings with its romantic, medieval (Romanesque) style.  Ludwig imagined this palace as a stage to celebrate his intense feelings for Wagnerian operas and medieval knights.  Sadly he died (was murdered) before this vision could be realised.  Schloss Neuschwanstein however, was opened to the public almost immediately in order to recoup at least some of the vast amounts of monies (both public and familial) expended.  The tour through this fabulous fairy tale castle is worth every cent; the detail is exquisite but the memory (mine) poor.  How I wished there was time to see it all again.

Another borrowed shot - the Castle is incredibly difficult to photograph

A 40 minute walk uphill to the Castle (or take the easy way!)



Castle Model - one of the few photos we were allowed to take...

Sadly, we did not have time to visit the magnificent Schloss Herrenchiemsee (1878). Created after visiting the palace at Versailles in 1867, it is said the Ludwig's "vision splendid" improved on the original.  (I’m not sure Louis would have been too happy about that and is probably still rolling about in his grave!) Incomplete, this palace is set on a forested island amid carefully clipped garden landscapes.  Neither did we find time to explore another palace in Munich with Ludwig associations. Schloss Nymphenburg is described as one of the loveliest park and palace ensembles in Europe.  This magnificent estate is where Ludwig was born. 

(Left: This ornate (Swedish) heater is located in what was to be the pool room.) 


Plagued by accusations of insanity, isolated by friend and foe and undermined by his family, Ludwig II was ultimately “arrested” and imprisoned at Berg Castle. Only one day later (13 June 1886), his body and that of his physician, was found in Starnberg Lake.  Mysterious circumstances, inconclusive evidence and outright deceit led to a host of conspiracy theories, yet it only saddens the ending of a wonderful if not, ill-fated, fairy tale.  We are left however, to celebrate an absolutely stunning legacy.



Back in the village we found time for a little chat with friends

And scared the Cap'n with a talent for spotting expensive fripperies