A Dot in the Ocean

Madeira

Porto Santo (Holy Port) was famously discovered by shipwrecked sailors in 1418.  At the time, Prince Henry the Navigator had ambitious plans to develop the Portuguese Empire, so was quick to take up the advantages this tiny island off the African coast offered.  Less than 80 years later, Christopher Columbus, on-route to discover the Americas, spotted its potential (strategic position) as well.  Given that we’ve read Madeira’s highest peak is visible from 40km, we couldn’t understand how early settlers could have missed noticing it.  Instead they reported “heavy black clouds” to the south and on further inspection, found the island of Madeira underneath them.  Strangely enough, that’s just how we found it too - Porto Santo, bathed in the afternoon sun, and hovering, dark gray clouds a further 20 miles on. 

Taken from a bus window ....

Our charts reveal staggering depths close to Madeira, hence few “anchorage” options, but a cloak of cloud concealed steep hillsides (and lots of hiking Germans).  Even more surprising, are the terraced gardens, more Nepal than Europe, and the Islanders’ notoriety as agriculturalists, eking out a living on a volcanic cone that rises some 6km from the floor of the Atlantic Ocean.  (The last volcanic activity is said to have been 6,500 years ago, so we feel ok about being here…)

Madeira means “wood”, although little is left of that 1.8 million year old indigenous forest.  The island’s climate has three distinct zones, depending on how far up those hills you are prepared to climb.  Just getting from the marina (at sea level) to the nearby bus stop outside the resort is all the exercise we need.  Australian gardeners would certainly recognise many of the plants, especially the vines (for that famous drop, Madeira) and bananas.  Another home-grown world-wide export is Cristiano Ronaldo.  For those who don’t know, he’s a famous soccer player, although one has to wonder where they found enough flat ground to actually build a footie field.

Perfect one day (for a few hours at least!)

Positively horrible the next.

It’s a likeable island, attractive and clean, although winter is probably not the best time to be here, even if it is warmer than the rest of Europe.  Over the last two days we’ve been being battered by 25+kt winds from storms sweeping across the Atlantic.  Thankfully, we’re protected from the swell (this time) but not from gusts rolling down those steep hills behind.  The Cap’n has been busy, in the rain, tending mooring lines, swapping thin with robust and adding more to ensure we stay safely confined within our berth.  Hmmm!  Must be time to move on.