Cosmic Karma*

X-ing File #6_A Gulf Stream Crossing & the Atlantic ICW

Georgetown to Belhaven

( Yes really, this floating vision was complete with pink flamingo (plastic of course) tied to the pulpit and induced a "trip" back to the psychedelic 60’s & a need to hum something Jimi Hendrix.)

Off on a shopping trip in Georgetown 

Georgetown, once famed rice growing capital of the south, was also a seaport, vital to plantation resupply and to carry their produce to markets, both locally and overseas.  Here, tucked up inside its tiny harbour, we withstood a nasty off-shore weather system (a day of solid rain & continuing wild winds) before taking time to bike to a grocery store and explore the town.  We made a dash to the Gullah Museum and were given a thorough insight into the history of African-Americans in the area by a well-read and knowledgeable docent.  He began by showing us a quilt his wife had made in honour of Michelle Obama’s ancestors who came from this area.  Well, quilts and history - all the makings for another movie (as in “How to Make an American Quilt“ fame) and GS was kindly allowed to take photos of them.  The Gullah specialise in finely woven sweet-grass baskets with some pretty examples on show at the museum. Regrettably, it was time to move on…

Michelle Obama Quilt

We made for Bucksport, a favourite stop set on the upper reaches of the Waccamaw River in the midst of old rice plantations and cedar swamps.  It’s beautifully scenic, feels so remote, everyone’s friendly and we were given to understand that the fishing’s excellent in these black, brackish and fresh waters.  Nearby, tortoises sunned themselves on old cedar stumps, and we, like them, watched the world go by from our vantage point.  It was hard not to break out with a roaring (if not out-of-tune) rendition of “Summertime” (from Gershwin’s 1935 Opera “Porgy and Bess”). 

Tortoises enjoying the morning sun along the river

Spirit of Jefferson (a floating casino?) comin' round the bend off Bucksport

Early morning reflections on the Waccamaw River at Bucksport 

We now had the North Carolina border in our sights so didn’t dally.  The day was going to be long and trying.  The ICW runs along Myrtle Beach in a section known as The Rockpile.  Lined with shale, sharp, shallow and narrow, it’s not the place to meet a tow (a tug & barge(s) combo) or a large hot water boat with an even larger wake.  Once across the border (yahooo!!), it was time to negotiate several shoaled inlets, also noted infamous spots along the ICW.  Luckily, we managed to find ourselves zig-zagging across them on a rising tide.  So, it was with some relief we found the open but calm Cape Fear River anchorage and could finally set the hook.  We did wonder how "fear" came into its naming...

Here's a new angle on your boat house...

And the house with the Mermaid is for sale 

Noisy birds on a nearby spoil island provided us with a “wake-up” dawn chorus, so we took Snow’s cut at speeds we never thought Windjammer capable of achieving.  Deep water anchorages along this section, close behind North Carolina’s barrier islands are few and far between.  Meaning more long days and even longer distances, so it was fortunate indeed to find space in (and be allowed to use) Mile Hammock, a military boat ramp and basin tacked on the end of Camp LeJeune.  Old APC's line the live fire range, fortunately no sailboats.       

Finally, we reached Morehead City, from our viewpoint a jumble of industrial and port facilities, and a river alive with recreational fishing boats – enough to make you feel very sorry for the fish.  It was the weekend and Morehead City is renown for its fishing tournaments of all varieties.  We’d planned a stop at nearby Beaufort (this one said “bow fert”) but didn’t like our chances of anchoring, so headed up Newport River, through Adams Creek and out into the wide Neuse River.  It was such a pleasure to see plenty of sailboats enjoying a romp in early afternoon breezes. 

Cedar swamps aplenty 

And interesting collection of craft along the river too

Late in the afternoon, winds increased on Pamlico Sound almost instantly clearing the fleet but we persevered, turning at Bay River into a crab-pot infested Long Creek for another well protected, marsh anchorage.  Cap’n Tenacious had set a record – a 90nm, 13 hour day.  Still, we weren't too far off the ICW, and well placed to reach Belhaven the next day for a well-earned afternoon rest in their sheltered harbour.