Boom, Crash & Tropical Spice

St George's with Fort George in the distance
(That is not our maxi taxi - way too modern!)

Of all the Caribbean islands, Grenada seemed to be THE magnet for cruisers of every persuasion.  Bays and coves were crammed with boats, some unoccupied and some storm or hurricane tragedies.  Here too, it was apparent that the boat-de-jour is indeed a catamaran.  And a very large one at that.  Fair enough!  We’ve met many who live-aboard full time this year.  Cruisers are not so much old retired codgers like the Cap’n & GS anymore, but young couples and families.  Whatever the reason for taking up an appealing life under sail, there sure is plenty of floating homes with all the mod cons.  So, where to anchor amid the mayhem?  We tried Prickly Bay (lance-a-peen) on the south coast but moved on to Clarke Courts Bay (or Woburn Bay) where we snagged a nicely protected anchorage off Saba Cove.  From there, we were sheltered, away from popular spots and easily able to explore options for our day-to-day needs.  But first the basics – very cold beer and food!  Marina restaurant.  Tick – done… 

We anchored tucked well into comfortable Saba Cove. (Hog Island, right side on map).  Most prefer the better protected anchorage & its beach bar (Hog Island, left side on map).  Hog Island is connected to the mainland by a small bridge and you can see the marina & boatyard (top left).  Not to mention the vast numbers of sailboats at anchor.

This photo is taken from the hills to the north of the Island so the views are reversed! Either way, it was far busier than we saw it in 2008.

The Shade-Man, out of a nearby marina, ran a maxi taxi service to town twice a week allowing us to pick up yet more boat bits & groceries, enough to fill very empty food lockers.  One run to Grand Anse, full of resorts, long sweeping sandy beaches & the flattest part of the island, took us to a vast hardware (that sold Moet… Woohoo! Come on Bunnings, get with the program!!).  Next stops were a chandlery, a nice coffee shop and an impressive IGA.  The second run took us into St George’s to explore the fresh food markets.  We drove through a maze of narrow, steep streets, most lined with old colonial buildings, then zoomed through the historic Sendel Tunnel at the foot of Fort George, to arrive at the bustling CBD taxi stand and lively market areas.  Freshly caught fish (by someone else) for dinner then boys?  You bet!  Kingfish and salmon no less.  

St George’s is a picturesque harbour made up of two inner bays.  The Carenage is the business side, and a flat, calm Lagoon, dubbed the “Frying Pan”, the yachties side.  We anchored in the Pan in 2008, using the nearby Yacht Club as a base.  Well, times have changed; no anchoring now!  It’s filled to the brim with a large marina, developed with an eye to attract all those superyachts and their cashed-up owners and crews.  Even on the eve of Carnival, there was none to be seen.  Docks were lined with your average cruiser, not to mention all those fat cats. Do you think we should upgrade, mused the Cap’n whilst juggling loads of spare parts, brass fittings, paint tins and other essentials in hand.  GS did not answer, only glared.

Back in Woburn, we found Taffy’s Restaurant; sadly, not on a day when they serve a wholesome traditional Sunday Roast.  At least they were open on a public holiday when our cupboard was bare.  We had a relaxing lunch and a few hours heads down to use their wi-fi.  We certainly felt starved of any connection to the wider world.  At that happy moment, GS’s computer chose to die, in a most spectacular way.  Back on board, Mr Lozza threw it into the (empty) sink, hoping the battery was not about to burst into flame.  (It didn’t!)

Grenada appears be a photo desert for now.  Hopefully more to follow...