Just Humming Along

Asa Wright Tour: 21 May 2024

Views back over Trinidad's northern ranges

We were also keen to join Jesse’s tour to the peaceful Asa Wright Bird Sanctuary.  The assigned date suited us.  Well, not for all actually; the Cap’n had a major date with his other woman and the travel lift. 

Mr Lozza and the Crew set off early with a bus full of avid bird lovers and hikers.  Were we in the wrong bus then?  Never!  Jesse entertained (that means quizzed!) us again with much interesting general knowledge gained along the way.  He rewarded us with a brief breakfast stop at a saheena stall.  It’s a pancake snack of callaloo (similar to cooked spinach) with a scant chickpea batter, and deep fried.  Rather delicious! 

Not long after, Jesse turned off the motorway and headed into tropical hills.  The road was narrow and the hillsides steep, winding our way higher into rainforest, all sprinkled throughout with fruits or vegetables seemingly randomly planted.  The WJ3 crew easily won the trivia contest naming various fruit & vege varieties growing along the way thanks to our exposure to such tropical delights at home!    

And a wonderful balcony to admire the views and hummingbirds

The Asa Wright Centre has been recently re-furbished with a great deal of care.  Once a coffee and cocoa plantation deep in the rain-forested northern range, it now offers 198 acres of nature reserve.  Mostly centred on serious bird-watching, it offers other pleasant diversions such as hiking trails and cooling rock pools to splash in and enjoy. Very reminiscent of the style of Malaysian highland guest houses. 

We started our day tour on the magnificent balcony sipping tropical punch whilst hummingbirds flitted nearby to take nectar.  Our guide, Caleb, then took us down a gentle trail to spot various birds.  Which we did, but next time we’ll buy the bird guide book before we go.  Even with GS’s best lens, it was difficult to spot and photograph some of these spectacular birds.  

After our hike in the humid forest, it was time to relax in the airconditioned dining room before tucking into a sumptuous lunch. (Oh, what the poor Cap’n was missing out on!).  Afterwards, Mr L & GS rested on the balcony (waiting for afternoon tea!) while the others went hiking and swimming.  With us, a couple of serious twitchers staying at the lodge, had camera equipment appropriate for the occasion.  GS was seriously envious!  Meanwhile, we had fun in this spectacular setting trying to capture stills of the rapidly moving wings of multi-coloured hummingbirds. 

A tropical treat for the eye in the gardens

We all had a relaxing day doing as we pleased; a chance to be out of the heat, explore the tropical rainforest and see some colourful bird life.  Next time we might just stay for a few days; only if the Budget Committee allows. 

(Photos of hummingbirds coming...the vids are rather too large!)

Ladies of the Night

Leatherback Turtle Tour: 17 May 2024

Back into the routine of listening to “Morning Prayers” (a Cruisers Radio Net on VHF68, 8am Mon-Fri), we heard that Jesse James continues to offer his shopping runs and local Trinidad tours to cruisers who hibernate in Chaguaramas for the season.  And luckily for us, it was well into Turtle season!!  We were able to snag seats for one of his midnight tours of Matura Beach on Trinidad’s distant and windswept north-east coast, seeking amazing giant mama leatherbacks!

We left Powers at 5.30pm, drove through Port of Spain joining the motorway at the back-end of peak hour traffic.  Jesse entertained us through the long drive on everything we ever wanted to know – from turtles to Trini life (especially local foods).  It was a Friday night, so the locals were in full limin’ mode when we stopped on-route for vast plates of Chinese chow, albeit Trini style, with generous sploshes of ketchup, mustard and chilli sauces. 

Chinese Dinner with heaps for a doggie bag or three.

From there it was off into the wilds of Matura Beach where we were met and briefed by Wardens and our Guides.  All were locals from nearby villages, deeply concerned for the protection and welfare of these gentle maidens who swim the seas returning only to lay eggs. 

A quick group shot. Thanks to Jesse. 
You get a good idea of their size!

Of course, we had to wait while spotters up and down the beach reported in.  There was little action for the first hour or so; sightings negligible as strong winds and challenging Atlantic currents ran close to shore.  So, with red torches aglow, we were encouraged to walk the beach south.  After about 45 mins or so, the three Motleys decided, with no sightings, it was a lost cause and turned back. Only to spot a giant lady, done with nesting, making her way into the waves.  How we did not trip over her on the way up was anyone’s guess!

The support team at work: they check every turtle they find

Further on, we joined a group watching the progress of another younger turtle having problems digging her nest in soft sand.  She was not tagged or chipped, so that sent quite the thrill through a team of wardens, scientists and volunteers.  During the season, quite a merry band of workers monitor as many turtles as possible to track their whereabouts and well-being.  We simply try our best to be unobtrusive and enjoy the spectacle of nature.

Last, but not least, we encountered a grand old girl who knew her stuff and got down to giving us a wonderful performance, tears and all.  A standing ovation, no less and yet again, a night to remember!

Another clutch of eggs.  All in a night's work

Go Splash!

Chaguaramas, Trinidad

Just shy of 6 weeks on the hard, we finally splashed.  Yahoo!  Given that the Crew had other plans for the day, our trusty Cap’n was left to cope with this ordeal all on his lonesome.  We couldn’t delay the splash; it’s currently peak haul-out season and yard booking chances were getting slimmer by the day.  Staff were busy re-stacking boats to make room for at least 22 incoming catamarans and Peakes Yard down the road was nearing capacity too!  Word about the yard had it that another boat was waiting (patiently) for us to leave.  So, our Cap’n did!

Looking good & ready to go!

Further, he had to move WJ3 to a mooring the next bay over at TTSA (Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association), a friendly, low-key club for locals with a few spare moorings to lease out to the likes of us.  Here was a chance to get the fridges going, make sure the generator worked and that we had sufficient power to run the boat before striking out for remote anchorages and sunny skies.  (You know, actually doing the fun stuff!)

At the TTSA dock trying to get aboard Bruce gracefully!

During our time at Power Boats Yard, we’d not been idle.  WJ3 seemed endlessly full of tradies and workers.  We hid below daily in the company of Walmart’s teeniest air conditioner (in temperatures well over 36 most days), and yet somehow managed to achieve a readiness status that the Cap’n was (sort-of) happy with.  Into this impossible climate, we welcomed Mr Lozza, a glutton for punishment it seems, for an opportunity to cruise the Caribbean’s windward islands during hurricane season.  Life is never dull for WJ3’s Motley Crew!

Port of Spain lit up in the distance after a storm blowing over cleared the skies.
(Taken from our mooring at TTSA)