Ladies of the Night

Leatherback Turtle Tour: 17 May 2024

Back into the routine of listening to “Morning Prayers” (a Cruisers Radio Net on VHF68, 8am Mon-Fri), we heard that Jesse James continues to offer his shopping runs and local Trinidad tours to cruisers who hibernate in Chaguaramas for the season.  And luckily for us, it was well into Turtle season!!  We were able to snag seats for one of his midnight tours of Matura Beach on Trinidad’s distant and windswept north-east coast, seeking amazing giant mama leatherbacks!

We left Powers at 5.30pm, drove through Port of Spain joining the motorway at the back-end of peak hour traffic.  Jesse entertained us through the long drive on everything we ever wanted to know – from turtles to Trini life (especially local foods).  It was a Friday night, so the locals were in full limin’ mode when we stopped on-route for vast plates of Chinese chow, albeit Trini style, with generous sploshes of ketchup, mustard and chilli sauces. 

Chinese Dinner with heaps for a doggie bag or three.

From there it was off into the wilds of Matura Beach where we were met and briefed by Wardens and our Guides.  All were locals from nearby villages, deeply concerned for the protection and welfare of these gentle maidens who swim the seas returning only to lay eggs. 

A quick group shot. Thanks to Jesse. 
You get a good idea of their size!

Of course, we had to wait while spotters up and down the beach reported in.  There was little action for the first hour or so; sightings negligible as strong winds and challenging Atlantic currents ran close to shore.  So, with red torches aglow, we were encouraged to walk the beach south.  After about 45 mins or so, the three Motleys decided, with no sightings, it was a lost cause and turned back. Only to spot a giant lady, done with nesting, making her way into the waves.  How we did not trip over her on the way up was anyone’s guess!

The support team at work: they check every turtle they find

Further on, we joined a group watching the progress of another younger turtle having problems digging her nest in soft sand.  She was not tagged or chipped, so that sent quite the thrill through a team of wardens, scientists and volunteers.  During the season, quite a merry band of workers monitor as many turtles as possible to track their whereabouts and well-being.  We simply try our best to be unobtrusive and enjoy the spectacle of nature.

Last, but not least, we encountered a grand old girl who knew her stuff and got down to giving us a wonderful performance, tears and all.  A standing ovation, no less and yet again, a night to remember!

Another clutch of eggs.  All in a night's work