Go with the Green Man

Vienna, Austria

Prater and interesting Ferris Wheel

The Ringstrasse. Again.

Our day began with an early start to Prater, necessary for those essential train tickets to Budapest to join our tour.  Thanks to Annette's assistance, all was quickly settled.  Whilst there, we took a quick look at the park setting made famous in the film, The Third Man - Vienna seems less grey now with rather a few more people about!

Back on the U2, we make our way again to the Ringstrasse.  Today’s itinerary would include getting lost in old Vienna and a couple of museums.  But first, off to the jeweller near Figlmueller to pick up certain unmentionable spoils… Then of course, we needed refreshments.  In Vienna one must take coffee and cake.  GS chose a layered confection of light sponge, rich raspberry jam, fresh cream, and silky meringue, dusted with icing sugar. Over the top? You bet! (Perhaps a Kardinalschnitte cake?) 

Refreshed, we headed for St Peters via Brandstasse, passing high fashion establishments (with clothes we couldn’t now fit into…see above cake description), then onto Kohlmarkt to find the Hofburg.  Here we dallied (not realising we were at the back door!) to admire the Royal Stables, St Joseph’s Place and the myriad of “music palaces” in the back streets where one could partake of classical performances.  Realising our directional error, we walked back through the old Palace to the new Palace and out the Burgtor (an impressive gate).  We sidestepped a Chechnya demonstration, decided not to visit Empress Sissi’s rooms, and then bypassed the museum quarter to make for the Albertina. 

He said there were 3 palaces.  Do you think this might be one?

 

That's the old Palace.....

Pssst! Forget finding that dog, I'm a dancing horse

Nearby however, we passed the offices of the Polizei, also housed in a fabulous building.  GS, rather keen to meet her hero, Inspector Rex, was most disappointed to find there was not even a bronze statue or plaque at the front door in his honour.  So, no photo signing options available then!  

Next door, the Albertina offers a collection of modern fine arts, and masterpieces set in luxurious apartments of the Imperial Palace.  Here the Cap’n nodded off whilst GS wandered for what seemed like hours, admiring their collections.  These range from Monet to Picasso, and of course include a classic collection in fabulous Palace apartments (note: the wallpaper is silk) of Michelangelo & Rubens sketches, not to mention the most famous Albrecht Durer pieces, his hare and praying hands.

One of the many Albertina Palace Apartments

"Hey! You there!  I can see that beer & sausage!" Sitting with Neptune - so bossy!

After such a heady experience, it was back to pacing the old town.  So we walked on to the Ringstrasse by the back of the Opera House and on to Freidrichstrasse to see the Musikverein, home of the Vienna Philharmonic.  From here, we crossed to see the fascinating Baroque Karlskirche church with its striking dome that sits in complete harmony with neighbour, the Wien Museum Karlsplatz.  Students lolled about, taking in an unseasonably warm day to improve their tans, re-read homework or talk – all done without removing their eyes from their smart phones. 

Karlskirche - gives true meaning to "baroque confection"

Back on the walking trail after a rest, proceed along Lothringerstrasse.  Turn off to see the unusual Memorial to the Russians, to commemorate liberating Vienna in WW2.  Then get back on track, by walking past the Konzerthaus, to the Stadtpark with its flamboyant, gold Johann Strauss monument.  It’s a little Liberace for me but oh, well...  Walk through the park as it’s “that time of the day” and everyone’s up for lingering chats over wine or coffee to make the most of the day, while children play in the park or feed fat ducks.  At the end of the park, cross to Wolzeile, taking in the many small shops and delicatessens along this street, until you turn to come back to St Stephen’s.  From there it’s back to the Karlsplatz U2 and home.

Strauss Monument

We met up with Annette to shop for a few necessities before heading out for a Chinese dinner at nearby Jasmin, and with it, our first taste of Sturm wine. Sturm is seasonal and from the first pressing of grapes.  It’s light, cloudy and has a slight spritz.  One glass is enough – its sweetness hides a killer alcohol content. 

Walking in Vienna

Vienna, Austria

St Stephen's Cathedral.

Explore the Ringstrasse: Look Up!

Vienna is neat & clean, the transport system’s a modern wonder (of sorts) and everything is in German. It was language #4 in 5 months for us, so the brains, even collectively, are a might fizzy.  Clutching our pre-paid tickets, a useless tourist map, Annette’s hand written notes (for when we get lost?), and under strict instructions to look up, off we went, heading for Emperor Franz Josef’s Ringstrasse, which encircles the old city.  Our first day sightseeing was something of a self-guided walking tour, so you may as well enjoy it with us:

Perhaps this was the Cathedral's architect?
He doesn't look happy!

Interior St Stephen"s Church

Emerge from Karlsplatz (U2, underground) and immediately be impressed by the Vienna State Opera building.  Walk along Karntner Strasse (noting an Aussie Pub for maybe later) to arrive at Vienna’s best-known landmark, St Stephen’s Cathedral.  Stop to gaze in wonder at the decorative interior. Walk through a small arcade beside the Cathedral to discover a nice little antique jewellers (spend a few euros, oh ohh!) near Figlmuller.  Figlmuller restaurant claims to have served the best schnitzel in Vienna since 1905.  Keep walking despite the tantalising aromas.  Discover a tiny sushi place for more calorie conscious lunch! 

Walk down Rotenturmstrasse to the Donau (Danube) Canal trying not to get confused between the three Danube options.  Watch local ducks struggling in amazingly strong currents.

Proceed to the area around Ruprechtskirche Church (a Romanesque church dating from 740) known as the “Bermuda Triangle” (although we’re not quite sure why) and salivate at the various offerings of more local restaurants.  Keep walking until you reach Maria am Gestade (1414), a lovely Gothic church, one of the oldest in Vienna.  From here make your way to Wipplinger Strasse, following it through the Hoher Market (an old area) and arrive at the Anker Clock (figures parade at noon – oops we missed it by 15 minutes!).  Agree to try to do better next time, and so move on behind St Stephen’s (again) to find Mozarthause but making sure to sidestep those beautiful horses ready to take you on a fiacre ride.  Not being music tragics, we admire Mozart’s house from the outside before getting lost in the surrounding narrow streets of Old Vienna.

There was even a Teddy Bear Museum - with a few famous Steiff bears!

Buildings were decorated within an inch of their lives

Follow Brandstatt until you discover a classic Beer Hall (just at the wrong time) then find the Clock Museum display at the base of a very interesting medieval building.  Reach the Am Hof (meaning "at Court"), one of Vienna’s oldest squares.  Wonder how many royals lived in the area or was just anyone allowed to have a crown or two decorating their mansion?  The most striking building on Am Hof is the Kirche Zu den neun Choren der Engel (Gothic church with a Baroque façade).

Despite being called the Rathaus, this is Town Hall

Walk down Freyung, home of street traders (Jewish quarter?) to Schotten Stift (monastery) and then turn onto the Ringstrasse, to stop at the front of the very decorative Burgtheatre. 

 

Cross to admire the Gothic Rathaus, the town hall with its very tall clock tower, set amid a garden of exotic fountains, statues and trees. 

Walk through the Rathauspark to see the Houses of Parliament with its even more impressive Pallas Athene fountain and across the Ringstrasse, the Volks Garten to see a Statue of Empress Sisi. 

Pallas Athene Fountain in front of Parliament

Hop on the U2 at Volkstheater to come home – exhausted, dazed & confused!  Home though, to a beautiful roast lamb, cooked Danish-style courtesy of our very kind hostess.  Even here, lamb is something of a rarity, so we were very spoilt indeed. 

 

(If you can't make sense of the names, or locations then just enjoy the pictures...it was soooo hard to stop clicking away! And looking up!)

Vienna saw the last of the Knights. This statue was in the Rathaus Garden