A Lesson in Civility

Gettysburg:24-25^th September

Battlefield at Gettysburg

Deltaville came and quickly went as we settled into the marina, then tossed a few items into bags for the next leg of our journey with the Magpies.  We’d picked up a rental car at Gloucester, looked longingly at Wal Mart, then quickly sped on to Gettysburg.  Our combo of a 10 year old Garmin and Google maps (on the phone) was certainly put to the test.  It was a bit of a drive, skirting Washington DC (too close for comfort) yet somehow, we timed it perfectly to cross the road to a lively “pub”, the Appalachian Brewing Company, with a German inspired menu.  Amongst the offerings were fritters, potato pancakes with apple sauce and a pudd called elephant ear (a large donut stretched free form, deep fried, dusted with sugar and spice and served with a mountain of vanilla ice-cream).  Well, someone had to suffer in the name of curiosity!  One thing for sure though, American’s eat fried, eat quickly and eat early, so we were almost last out the door. 

Impressive display and comprehensive overview at the Gettysburg Diorama

Next morning recharged, we hit Gettysburg’s offerings.  We were now in Civil War era (1861-1865) and ready to understand how the three-day battle at Gettysburg (1863) changed the outcome of the war.  Here too, President Abraham Lincoln gave the “Gettysburg Address”.  With only a day and so many choices, it was hard to narrow them down.  First list casualty was the self-guided driving tour, although the country-side was very beautiful.  Our lack of knowledge about the battle also meant driving the extensive Battlefield and surrounds was also off the list.  So what to do?

Battle-scarred side wall (hard to see)

We started with the Gettysburg Diorama, a scale model of the battleground with a short sound & light show describing the events over those three days.  It was an excellent beginning, and after a short walk around town, we all agreed that the Battlefield Visitors Centre was to be next on our list.  There, the introductory film, fantastic Cyclorama (the background was a mural painted in 1883 by French artist, Paul Philippoteaux recording the events) and well-stocked museum kept us busy for more than a few hours.  To complete the day, Cap’n History Buff (currently reading Nero) and his Mate, took off on a guided bus tour of the Battlefield, which they later described as excellent.  GS and Mrs Magpie waited in the coffee shop working on a plan (to cover as much as humanly possible) for sightseeing Lancaster the following day.

Siege of Yorktown

Yorktown: 22^nd September

After a punishing but enjoyable few days discovering Colonial Williamsburg, we returned to quiet Sarah Creek.  We had to resort to Uber!  Where were you Ray?  Meanwhile, the marina had made local news due to boatyard a fire (possibly an electrical fault?).  

Events though, had not discouraged the dinner crowd at popular Oyster Company's (YROC) dockside shack.  We’d enjoyed a couple of dinners there whilst at the marina and Saturday night’s band (21 Sep) was just fab.  Well, they were playing our music (our age group)…  Dare I say, we were all singing along too!! 

Sunday turned out to be perfect for venturing across the river to Yorktown in a dinghy, the ever trusted, Bruce.  The Magpies by now did not flinch at the suggested York River crossing or mode of transport. 

This pretty town is most famous as the site of the 1781 siege and British defeat.  General Charles Cornwallis surrendered to General George Washington and the French Fleet.  We were there to see Colonel John Lamb’s Second Regiment of the Continental Artillery firing a replica 18-pounder siege gun.  Of course, the performance was somewhat reduced to a single gun and crew; although American forces may only have had 3 of these massive siege guns (along with lots of others).  That’s not to say that we weren’t able to understand the impact and noise over the battlefield.  Opposing forces were so close to each other.

Loading the 18-pounder

And FIRE!

Waiting for lunch at Riverwalk Landing

After a quick browse through the Battlefield Museum (noting Washington’s military tent), we took the Trolley back to Riverwalk Landing and did a little shopping, browsing and eating (Mmmmm! Ben & Jerry’s ice-cream).  Then it was back to Bruce for a ride over to Sarah Creek.  We wanted to be ready for any eventuality given we were about to head back out to Chesapeake Bay.  The next day’s sail was north to Jackson Creek; another “short sail” to look forward to with a far better weather forecast.  Fingers crossed!

Bruce (behind the flash black "tinnie") at Riverwalk Landing.
Note calm seas & sunny skies.  Never on the day you want to you leave, right?

Come the Revolution

Colonial Williamsburg: 19-21^st September

Betsy Nicholas learns the harsh realities of  life,
as does her maid, Sarah, in a prestigious family in Williamsburg

With WJ3 safely tucked up in Sarah Creek, we deserted her for a few days to explore the Historic Triangle (Jamestown, Williamsburg and Yorktown).  Well, that was the plan.  Thanks to Ray, we had a lift into Yorktown to catch the connecting free bus to Williamsburg.  Thanks to Ray, we had a lift (14m) into Williamsburg because the free bus is no more…  Ray even waited at the Visitor’s Centre because he thought we might need a lift to our hotel.  How nice is that?  American hospitality at its best!

Marquis de Lafayette grants us an interview

Don't argue with the Auctioneer!

Our hotel was at the doorstep of Colonial Williamsburg’s Visitor Centre and a stop on the shuttle servicing the historic district.  At a planning meeting (over coffee, naturally) we decided to drop Jamestown (9 miles away, no bus, long walk) and concentrate on Williamsburg itself.  Armed with a map & daily programs, we could ponder on the best offerings scheduled for the coming 2 ½ days.

We crammed in as much as humanly possible, sitting in on vignettes of the lives of the Colonials (remember, we’re talking British Colony here).  We discovered various trades (masonry, blacksmithing, millinery), admired heritage gardens, tried not to disturb the odd ghost or two, learned a few soldierly tactics (very handy), ate local, joined in a pub crawl (pumpkin beer – eeuw!), bid at an outdoor auction, left our calling card at the Governor’s Palace and finally, met with George and Martha Washington (as you do).

The Governor's Carriage perhaps

In a nutshell, the history of this area is central to events that led to the American Revolutionary War (1775-1783).  James Fort, settled in 1607, marks the first permanent settlement of English colonists in the Americas.  Captain John Smith (of Pocahontas fame) strongly supported the new colony and became its leader (1608-09) before heading off to explore the Chesapeake.  Jamestown served as the Colonial capital from 1616 to 1699.  The land was Powhatan (American Indian) and by 1632 early colonists sought additional protection, building a fortified settlement on higher ground between the York and James rivers.  Known as Middle Plantation, later re-named Williamsburg, this town grew to become the capital of Virginia (1699 – 1780) and a busy crossroads of the British Empire. 

Place setting at Shields Tavern

And fine accompaniment with our meal

Remember the Great Bridge battle in 1775?  Governor John Murray was in residence at the Williamsburg Palace during 1771-1775.  (“Palace” was used in irony given the huge expense to the public purse.)  Following his defeat at Great Bridge, Murray abandoned the Palace for the safety of a British ship.  His popularity had “waned” somewhat; he sent his family back to England and never returned to the Palace.  The Governor's personal effects were sold off by the townsfolk (to support the war effort) and thankfully, some of the furnishings and effects we see today (the originals) are donations back to Colonial Williamsburg. 

The Palace Cook with a selection of dishes he'd prepared

Mantua Maker (Seamstress) hand sewing a dress 

George & Martha Washington discuss cloaks with the Tailor in his Shop

Ending the day with a little marching and music

Batten Down Them ‘Atches!

Norfolk to York River: 18^th September

Now, you’ll recall that September is peak ‘cane month.  So far, 2019 had seen an offering of storms of varying dimensions rolling slowly up the US east coast.  One day perfect – definitely not the next!  So it was for our journey to York River.  Ordinarily, this should have been a fun couple of hours on the water.  Somehow, I think we met up with Humberto’s leftovers.  

This looked to be a floating ship's skeleton

Old Point Comfort Lighthouse

As we left Elizabeth River, it seemed a Navy and Coast Guard's worth of ships were coming in.  Was this a warning sign?  From Old Point Comfort Lighthouse, we put up sail; not for speed but to control the bollocking nature was delivering in spades.  Things calmed down a bit once we made York River.  However, the Magpies certainly earned their boating stripes that day for sure.  And yes, nobody wanted lunch on the way…

Hooray!  Safely docked in York River Yacht Haven Marina for a few days.
Even better, our neighbours had a Siamese cat!

Chocolate Beer is not for Everyone

Norfolk: 17^th September

Get me off that boat!

Our wildlife experiences were soon enough followed by city life.  We hit the dock in Norfolk ready for the high life.  Our lads, now thinking of boats with larger accommodations, chose to explore Battleship Wisconsin at the Nauticus Museum and later visit the MacArthur Memorial.  The ladies chose to walk the CannonballTrail, a self-guided walking tour through historic Norfolk; but not before taking a coffee break at the mall, naturally!  Sadly, none of the historic homes were open, making the walk a little uneventful.

1894 James W Hunter House (note cobbled street), a
Romanesque-Gothic resplendent with turrets & gargoyles 

1896 Epworth United Methodist Church, Romanesque, certainly
home to gargoyles and probably a few ghosts too.

Our plan was then to meet at the Waterside Dock, or more specifically, the Blue Moon TapHouse for a little craft beer.  Artisan beer tasting is a hip thing to do in Norfolk. Y'all know how hip ; ) we folks are.  The Ghent district, being a little out of our way, led us dockside, so we tried “vibrant & young” on for size, sharing one platter between us (6 tasting glasses).  Who would have thought of chocolate beer?  There was also mango, coffee and lemon accompanied by tasting notes like any fine wine.  Give me an ordinary sauv blanc (from NZ) or even a standard beer ANY time. Cheers!

Trial Run

Great Bridge: 15^th September

Our first adventure gave our guests a taste, albeit a small one, of America’s vast Intra-Coastal Waterway.  Norfolk marks Mile 0 and our smooth run south up the Elizabeth River to Great Bridge, offered a couple of easy hours of river cruising.  This section of the ICW reveals the extent of the area’s shipping industry.  We dodged all manner of craft, but especially large tows and tugs going about their daily business.  There is also the chance to transit beneath modern and rustic iron bridges, avoid seemingly low hanging electrical cables and even lock through the Great Bridge Lock that separates salt and fresh water.  Despite all the industry, charming sections of swamp cedars, marshlands and wooded pine forest that importantly offer homes to a variety of animal & bird life, provide us a taste of  “wild” river experience.

Great Bridge (an interesting bascule bridge) with tow going through (photo from 2009)

WJ3 tied up at the dock between Great Bridge and the Great Bridge Lock
 (seen, closed, behind us) (photo 2009)

We settled in at the free dock between the lock and Great Bridge (a majestic bascule swing bridge).  Great Bridge is the site of an historic Revolutionary War Battle.  In 1775, in order to recruit more men, British Governor, John Murray offered slaves a chance to serve for their freedom.  That same year, on December 9^th, the Battle of Great Bridge saw a British force of 600 (half of whom were African American) defeated by Patriots.  This famous battleground was right beside our dock.  

Map of the Battle of Great Bridge (Norfolk's Cannonball
Walking Tour - taken through a Mall window at MacArthur Centre)

Chesapeake is home for Heather and Bill (Aeolus) and we had pre-planned a BBQ dinner with them.  How handy that Cap’n Trusty had docked us right next to a picnic table.  With flames from WJ3’s BBQ lighting up the night sky (much to the mirth of those not initiated in true BBQ performance), we feasted on a traditional Aussie barbie (with the exception of lamb chops – lamb is a wee bit hard to find) and finished off with lashings of Heather’s cheesecake.

The next morning, Heather drove us to the nearest supermarket to replenish our supplies and on the way, took a detour via a locally celebrated pop-up shop selling, wait for it,  Maine lobster rolls!  Our lunch, naturally!  Those tasty rolls conjured up memories of our trip to Maine (and dodging Hurricane Earl) that’s for sure.  This made for good “voyage” beginnings for us all.

Except for Herbert, who had made an overnight grab for a more upmarket spot under the bimini.  Our trusty Cap’n quickly resettled him in a nearby tree (a room with a view) and judging by the insect bites covering our arms & legs after, he would not starve.  Our guests were relieved!

Meet Herbert, boatyard friend and fellow live-aboard.
 Well, it is nearly Halloween...

Best Behaviour

Norfolk: 14^th September

We had little choice but to discover Uber.  Norfolk’s airport, so it seems, is public transport challenged.  Either way, we arrived in time to meet the travelling Magpies (Mr & Mrs) off their flight and demonstrate our new found skill in summonsing transport (Uber) back to Waterside Park.  This is where we’d left Bruce, a grizzled, ancient mariner (our dinghy), to fend for himself amongst a bevy of sleek, colourful Dragon boats.  At least he hadn’t run away to sea with one of them in our absence!

New to dinghy transport, our guests graciously clambered over their bags and into Bruce for the zippy ride across the harbour to our Hospital Point anchorage.  The weather had been somewhat unsettled of late, but WJ3 was nicely dug in and well protected in this fantastic spot right in the heart of super busy, and very historic Naval port areas, Norfolk and Portsmouth. 

A sailboat is quintessential “tiny house” living.  So, with that in mind, our guests squeezed themselves into an aft cabin made to fit a queen-sized bed.  And that’s about all.  We later assembled for drinks and a “safety briefing with extras” in the cockpit to watch the sun go down.

So far, so good.  No absconders….

Mr & Mrs Magpie arrived in time for "sundowners" on board.  It was a little breezy.