Low Country

Georgia and South Carolina are home to vast areas of seemingly impenetrable marsh and swamps.  A visit to the remote Okefenokee Swamp is on our wish list, however, not this year.  That didn’t stop us watching carefully as we wove our way through mile after winding mile of connecting rivers and canals for wildlife.  This is the real low country, full of isolated homes, shrimp boats and crab pots.  All very quiet at this time of year.

Ben Sawyer Bridge. One of many we encountered. 
This swing bridge operates north of Charleston

Hell Gate was up to it’s usual tricks though and our timing was off – it would take months to travel this stretch if we were to wait for a convenient high tide, so on with the show.  And we skimmed over it with just a foot of water beneath the keel in one stretch of this narrow, shoaled cut.  We made it, just, but wouldn't want to try it again on such a low tide...

We eventually made Charleston on a beautiful warm sunny day.  That is, until we popped out of the Wappoo Creek cut, then crossed the Ashley River into this vast, windy and very busy harbour.  The dockhand helping us refuel, dressed in t-shirt and shorts, thought we were totally mad!  Dressed for the Arctic AND worse, travelling north… 

North of Charleston lies a very scenic section of the ICW (and it's deep, easy to navigate!)– the wonderful cypress swamps that line the Waccamaw River.  The river is rich, tobacco brown, lined with loads of stumps, swamp and marshlands.  This area was once wealthy and vigorous due to the production of rice and indigo.  We pulled into the Bucksport Marina, a favourite and quiet spot along the Waccamaw to refuel, deciding immediately that we needed an extra day to rest.    

Cypress swamp along the Waccamaw a bit dismal
in winter, and an ICW mile marker now a prize nest

Hard to spot, but those logs in the Waccamaw
are just covered in tortoises enjoying the afternoon sun

We’re travelling every day now with no plans to make any more longish stops from here, so there’s very little to report that’s especially interesting.  Even the wildlife is in hiding, (no alligators to report!) all remaining in Florida until Spring is well and truly in the air.  

How is this for a painterly sunset? 
South Edisto River, west of Watts Cut, South Carolina