Never Cross an Alligator

Yes, it's still cold!

Adams Creek usually marks a point where the ICW, heading north, holds few surprises.  Thankfully, we’ve now left designated “problem areas” behind and are well on our way with the mile countdown.  We had hoped for improved weather, so it was a delight to be crossing the wide, wide waters of Pamlico Sound on a quiet, sunny day.  The Sound is bordered by a narrow chain of tiny islands bravely fronting the Atlantic that make up the Outer Banks.  Most famous of these is Hatteras Island, an area that many cruisers try to avoid, particularly in bad weather when off-shore conditions can be treacherous.  This area is otherwise known as the “Graveyard of the Atlantic.”  Don’t let those names fool you, this is an area well settled with beach homes, resorts and all the infrastructure to support it.  It’s also home to quieter wildlife reserves and Kill Devil Hills, home of the Wright Brother’s historic first flight.  We may well get to visit one day, but not in WJ3.  A car and kayak might be best…

We anchored off Pungo Creek (nearby Belhaven is famous for its crabs – we were way too early for this treat) and settled in to watch the sun go down with a quiet drink in the cockpit, listening to a nearby resident, busy we thought with a nail gun, fixing his house.  Actually no, someone was out in the woods, hunting.  We retreated below deck and left early next morning.  

The Alligator River & its bridge are miles wide. A swing bridge sits at the  intersection with the ICW. It's surprising how much commercial traffic (barges, tugs) uses this waterway. 

The ICW took us on a merry dance through areas seemingly remote to us but on a map are well-settled and criss-crossed by a network of roads and bridges.  On we trudged - up rivers and creeks, through narrow canals, across more broad sounds, Norfolk in our sights.  Nature had other ideas.  As we burst out of stumpy Pungo canal into the Alligator River, we received a Gale Warning for the immediate area.  Oh great!  In 2009, nestled among the duck blinds in this area, we had an alert for a water spout.  Yes, we set the anchor firmly and survived the night with winds blowing over 41mph.  Next morning it appeared to have calmed down.  Soon though, we came to a halt at the vast Alligator Bridge, sheltering in its lee from winds still blowing over 28mph….  We dropped anchor again.  This swing bridge won’t open over 30mph and we didn’t want to face bashing into open waters across Albemarle Sound with nowhere to hide.  It was worth the wait…  Next morning the Sound was still a little cranky, but allowed us to make headway.  And I might add, in the company of the first north-bound cruising vessel we had encountered to date.

Yet another canal to float through - at least it's protected by tall timbers.
And is that really blue sky?