Behind the Barrier

Early morning farewell to Bucksport Marina

Treated to early morning reflections in a calm Waccamaw River

After taking a break at Bucksport Marina, a friendly and favourite stop along the Waccamaw, it was time to take on the next challenge.  A canal led us much, much closer to Atlantic beaches and barrier islands, and all the civilization that entails.  More bridges to tackle, areas of densely populated housing, interesting canal homes, loads more local and commercial traffic, and skinny, shoaled waters when crossing a myriad of smaller coastal inlets.  In all, as we rolled along, we enjoyed the change of scenery that made our day seem to pass quickly.   

Some houses were very isolated

Others were certainly unique

When passing these inlets, it is often quite possible to catch a glimpse of the currently moody Atlantic Ocean – hence our decision to remain on the ICW rather than take “outside” legs.  Many inlets are inaccessible to the likes of us with our 5½’ keel anyway.  Luckily for us, we watched closely for repositioned markers and avoided bumping.  Unlike some poor soul in his hot-water boat at Lockwoods Folly who obviously ignored them or perhaps thought his shallow keel was sufficient!  We breezed past, watching a tow boat struggling to free him in a rapidly diminishing tide.  Worse, a nearby carpark offers locals a fine vantage point of escapades that must regularly take place there. 

Found traffic (ship & bird) on the Cape Fear River

And quite a few hard working tugs and ferries

We rolled on to Southport and the Cape Fear River, a big ship channel with remarkable currents running, anchoring off-channel behind a spoil island at Tina’s Pocket.  The wind was blowing up-river, the skies were grey and we were cold and miserable, but the anchor held, doing a sterling job as it always does.   Best of all, we were well placed to tackle Snows Cut, where WJ3 was pushed through at an unprecedented 9kts.  And of course, more barrier islands, more inlets…  At least we had made North Carolina – mowing down the miles now!

Who doesn't need their own Lighthouse?

After another long day, we settled into a not so cosy Mile Hammock – again, the wind blew straight in on us, so we set an anchor alarm.  First time ever; thankfully not needed.  Mile Hammock is part of Camp Lejeune (US Marines) and we cruisers are kindly allowed to share this small harbour when not in use.  The ICW in this area then continues through their training area, so we left early to make for Beaufort, a pleasant little town with pirate connections (Blackbeard) on the Beaufort Inlet - another big ship channel.  Anchoring in this area is challenging, so we moved on to a perfectly calm and more peaceful Adams Creek, putting us in good stead for the challenges of crossing the large, open waters of Pamlico Sound. 

(Blackbeard’s history is quite interesting.  You might enjoy this story of his daring-do efforts at sea in the rather fetching Revenge and later, the Queen Anne’s Revenge.)  

And you thought it was just a load of old history...