Not Retreating

Faro, Portugal

For those of you who have noticed our sudden move east, rest assured we are heading south to the Canaries.  Soon!  When the weather provides us with a suitable window for the 3 day (or so) crossing.

Why then, are we in Faro?  You may well ask…  We splashed Thursday, 2 Nov just after 3pm and decided to make for Portimao to anchor rather than be wimps and seek the security of the Lagos Marina (otherwise known as Port Velcro).  We had our sea legs in mind.  So did the natural forces!  We had a bouncy ride over, reminding us that we had forgotten to stow away for Atlantic conditions, followed by a rattler of a night (shaken not stirred) on anchor given a wind against tide against swell.  Friend, KT, can attest to the delights of this experience.  On that occasion (2012), we sought relief in the Portimao Marina.  On this, we made post haste for Faro and its delightful (and calm) anchorage off Ilha da Culartra.  

The winds were strong and perfect for a brisk sail along the coast; a chance to get the bugs out and remind us why we subscribe to this boating life.  We were brought back to earth with the sighting of Faro’s notorious lagoon entrance.  Naturally, we had perfectly timed it for a challenging ride.  Imagine if you will, those (river) Bar Crossing videos…  We could have made one too but what we both really wanted to do was hide in the loo.  In truth, all we could do was hold on.  In we surfed (all 46 feet of us) as the water in the channel eddied and swirled threateningly.  Our forward momentum was brought to a sudden halt as we hit the outward current running at least 5kts.  It seemed to take forever before we actually moved forward to escape the clutches of this minor Charybdis.  

Hugs all round and lashings of wine after setting the hook, right on last light.  

On anchor - look no swell!

Our neighbours with barrier island Culatra beyond

Culatra Settlement & fishing boat harbour

Finding Faro

Ihla da Culatra, Portugal

Itinerary Faro, Portugal: 20-21 October 2012.  Anchor in a small lagoon behind Culatra, a barrier island, to do a bit of stork-watching (in the Parque Natural de Ria Formosa) then a quick swim in cold Atlantic waters before exploring Faro’s old town (fun dinghy ride included in price). 

Warm clothes, wet weather gear & harness - Faro here we come!!

After two long days of sailing we made it to Culatra, an anchorage in the tidal lagoon off Faro.  Not of course without our regular wild ride over the upwellings and currents swirling through the harbour entrance. 

Upwellings through the Lagoon entrance

Our sailing days had been mostly fine with clear skies and good winds but somehow, Seville’s rain (and cold) followed us here.  Our arrival was perfectly timed for Sunday so most shops were closed and swimming in crisp Atlantic waters off the agenda too.  Then Monday arrived with a cold, dense fog which still had not lifted by noon.  Rather than sit on the boat watching even more movies, or dinghy in chilling mists, we decided to up anchor and head west (in some interesting conditions) for Portimao. 

Sailboats in a quiet tidal lagoon off Faro

The exit out was rather wild as we smashed into a huge swell (wind against tide) and later barely missed a giant yellow tunny net marker.  It was out there in the fog somewhere!  Yes, we did have our radar on and let it be known, it has earned its keep well and truly this season!  Don’t leave home without one…

BCK & GS decided to return another day to Faro - by train!  The weather had not improved but at least they managed to take in a few sights between showers.   

We toured the old city and museum while it rained...and rained

Then we talked with a few locals

Took in a Fado & Portuguese Guitar performance

And the sun finally came out for our visit to Ingreja do Carmo
and the Chapel of Bones

From: Puerto Gelves, Spain  Lat/Long: 37:20.505N  06:01.364W   Date/Time: 19/10/12: 0800

To: Ilha da Culatra, Portugal  Lat/Long: 36:59.994N  07:50.248W   Date/Time: 20/10/12: 1935
Time Taken: 130nm (19hrs)  Distance (this year): 544.5nm (85hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 10781.5nm   Weather: Wind NW 8-10kts; clear skies.   
Fastest Speed: Set off in the dark (at 8am).  Rode the river doing 9kts at times to anchor off Bonanza in time for heavy rain; so watched movies instead of touring Bonanza!  Great sailing next day to Faro; saw a few dolphins and a rare sighting of a pod of small pilot whales - very privileged indeed!