Slipping through the Southern Grenadines

Up until now we thought that sailboat numbers were down a bit; it is hurricane season after all.  Cruisers were certainly squeezing into Bequia’s small harbour, but turnover was fairly quick.  Most were moving on to their favourite hurricane haunts to wait out nasty weather.  Charterers though, were out in force for some late season bargains.  At one point, we were surrounded by five 60’ catamarans.  Now that’s some chunk of boat-ware – shades of the BVI.  We wondered what it would be like in peak season.  We were to find out later in Grenada.

Heading off from Mayreau for the Regatta 

Again, it was time for us to move on.  We bid farewell to Didi and promised to be back next year for another relaxing stay on this welcoming island.  We had also heard of a large Regatta to be held in Carriacou, Aug 4-7th and we hoped to see the spectacle.  Many of the islands, including Bequia, were sending small workboats and young crews to participate in what is described as the oldest Regatta event in the West Indies.

Rainbow over the Caribbean Sea

Bypassing exotic Mustique, once secluded home to the celebrated Royal, Princess Margaret, (along with other Celebs), we made for Mayreau, gateway to Tobago Cays Marine Park.  Salt Whistle Bay is a photographers dream and we hoped to squeeze in.  It is full of moorings now and clearly preference is given to charterers and their cats.  More importantly though, we could see a storm out at sea heading our way and knew this bay would be too exposed.  It was already starting to rock.  The decision to move further south to Saline Bay and anchor (being the last of the not-so-big spenders) made this a rather attractive option.  Saline proved to be quiet with a nice beach and offered some reasonable snorkelling - except when the local ferries rolled by.

When the weather improved, we tried our luck with a quick “drive” through the Tobago cays.  The seas were still up following the storm with large waves crashing over the outer horse-shoe reef, where all the snorkelling action is – of course.  So, we pushed on through and once out of the reef set a course between Palm and Union Islands, took a quick drift by the famous Mopion Island (a tiny circular sand cay) before checking out Petite Martinique as a possible anchorage.  In the end, we were so close to Carriacou, and as the sun was still shining and a nice breeze pushing WJ3 along, it made sense to keep going.  These islands make up a beautiful and easy cruising ground; it felt such a reward after all our challenges to date. 

View over Union Island, Carriacou (middle distance) and Grenada (beyond)

Tobago Cays. Nothing between you and the Atlantic except for a slender reef

The much romanticised Mopion Island

Tyrell Bay is one of those “safe” all-weather harbours.  It was certainly busier and more developed since our last visit.  The Cap’n drove us through the anchorage checking out suitable options, before settling beside the not-so-young starkers family (yes, more Frenchies).  The Cap’n & his Motley Crew still have nightmares.  Fortunately, GS discovered that Grenada was celebrating Carnival in the next week.  With few regrets, the anchor was raised (much too slowly by the boys!!) and we set sail via the appropriately named Kick-‘em-Jenny.  Dangerous to ships and boats, this active underwater volcano is said to occasionally belch large bubbles of gas.  It was last on Orange Alert in 2018 when we crossed from the Med.  Thankfully, we missed any action then and now, and settled safely in Clarke Courts Bay, Grenada without incident.  

Blessings in Bequia

Sun and spectacular sunsets too!  But no green flash... or was that a 80's thing?

We finally found the SUN in Bequia!  Things were looking up!  Our trusty Cap’n headed off to complete checking-in formalities with immigration/customs.  (This has to be done at every island where we stop!  Apparently at times it really tests his UN-learned diplomacy skills…).  As luck would have it, our Cap’n met up with Didi on “Blessing” at the dinghy dock.  She manages a mooring field just off the picturesque Plantation Hotel.  Best of all, there was a mooring available and we could stay 7 days.  We quickly left the swell of Lower Beach behind for this fantastic spot tucked nicely up in Admiralty Bay.  We must be going soft in our dotage?

White sandy beach near the Plantation Hotel.
Next time, GS is going to stay there a week!!

The weather held and with relish, we explored the tiny town, ate at cute coffee shops, tried the pizza and found a nice bar or three for evening drinks.  The town market had an array of beautiful fresh fruits and vegies, most brought over daily by fast ferry from St Vincent.  Best of all, there was a beautiful blue swimming pool at the back of our boat.  We used it every day.  Although the sighting of a coral sea snake lurking in the seaweed under our boat did cause a few moments of panic.  The lads also took the opportunity to snorkel nearby coral reefs, spotting baby lobsters, colourful fish and a troupe of divers exploring the depths below. 

Cute old timber shingle house

Bequia has a history of traditional boat building and in the early years, a whaling industry.  However, skills needed to continue this tradition have diminished with time.  We were saddened to hear that Withfield, who skilfully make our sturdy custom dodger and awnings in 2008 has since passed.  Daffodil, a floating barge laden with fuel and water (they take laundry too!) is still in operation.  We cannot understand how this brilliant concept has not become popular across the Caribbean.  In Georgetown, Bahamas, we had to line up at the petrol station with jerry cans, lug them to the dinghy dock, transport them back to the boat and then siphon the contents, can by can, into WJ3’s tank until full.  Repeat this performance for fresh water.  In March, there were hundreds of boats in Georgetown.  Well, enough moaning.  It must be time for another swim.  

Lovely clear water off a dinghy dock with WJ3
(look for her under the beige awning, in between the big cats)

View over Admiralty Bay as the sun goes down. 
Farewell to Bequia dinner at an upstairs restaurant in town near the dock.