Commemorating ANZAC Day

Australian War Memorial 2017

On April 25th each year, Australians come together to remember and honour those brave men and women who have served and sacrificed for their country.  We could not join you this ANZAC Day but our thoughts were with you.  

We'd also like to salute all those front line workers who keep our country safe, free and healthy.  Trinidad, 2024.

Well done, Tumbi Vale Scout Group 2024 with Miss Phoenix wearing her
Great Grandfather Middleton's medals.  (Photo by V. Middleton)

Artwork & Ode on a Truck 2017

DO'Neil, via Wikimedia Commons

At the going down of the Sun, And in the Morning, We will remember them.

Checking In

Miss WJ3 Bare Butt Naked - stripped to the gel coat.

We’ve been back in Chaguaramas just over a week now.  Work on WJ3 so far has fitted around the heat, the humidity and a nasty dose of local food poisoning.  Back door trots, so my Gran said.  Trot we did indeed…  Firstly, getting off the boat (without incident) sliding down a 20’ galvanised metal ladder, scaring the Yard Security on their night rounds, then finally making a desperate dash for the closest facilities that are never close enough when you need them.  Or worse, they’re occupied!  Always someone sneaking in a quiet chat or a bit of betting on their phone. 

So here we are and loving it!  Slowly getting things in ship-shape order.  Sadly, the batteries drained in our absence, leaving the interior full of mould.  Also, a couple of smaller hatches had been left open by workers so that left us with a major spring clean effort.  Other than that, a few bush fires across the road saw cinders blown over the boatyard (thankfully all boats were washed down).  So, it would seem we’ve missed an exciting “away season”.  The Yard is fairly quiet now but will ramp up with people hauling in a month or so.  Yes, I know we are just splashing – its an antipodean thing!

Now, we are only waiting out for on a few deliveries.  And trying to find yet another leak in Bruce – he’s very temperamental these days, though in pretty good nick for an old fella.  A bit like ol’ Cap’n Iron Guts. 

Well, you did want to know the ups and downs of life afloat.  We’ll keep you posted on our movements… 

Oh no! Not red papaya for dinner again...

On Notice!

Our visas finally have arrived (insert a very happy dance here) and so we are off in less than 3 weeks – OMG!  Right now, we are running in circles trying to organise ourselves.  Come what may, we will make those flights back to Trinidad! 

Our rough float plan comes with dates, although variables will include time spent at either end of the voyage for “TLC” purposes.  Miss WJ3 has to look her glamorous best!  Needless to say, we are some 2 months late at the start post for our run back to the Chesapeake (US); rather more than we hoped.  To further complicate matters, we’re now into a La Niña weather cycle so fresher conditions are expected.  We may have to shake those tail-feathers and move north at a clipper pace.  Always keeping a weather eye! 

Unbelievably, a waterspout flashed by us in 2023.
We certainly double checked that Exumas mooring!! 

Most of our sailing is planned as day hops with the odd overnighter (perhaps) & our longest trip of about 4 days to Turks Caicos.  At least we will be swimming with the tide (actually, the Trade Winds) to get back to the USA.  Well, here's the plan in legs:

Trinidad: 2-3 weeks then splash

Trinidad to Nevis: 2 weeks with rest stops at Bequia & St Lucia to reprovision

Nevis to St Croix: 1 week.  (Our US visa clock starts ticking in St Croix);

St Croix to Puerto Rico: 1 week & if the weather holds, then 2-3 weeks in Puerto Real Marina (south-east coast) for some touring.  The Cap’n is desperate to catch his own lobsters! 

Puerto Rico to Turks Caicos: 1 week (4-5 days open sea sailing).  Could be worse!

Turks Caicos to Georgetown, Bahamas: 1 week including a rest stop in Georgetown to reprovision.

Georgetown, Exumas to Freeport, Grand Bahama: 2-3 weeks; There is no plan to stay long in any one place except perhaps a stop at Warderick Wells, the Land & Sea Park.  Sadly, no time for island bars stocked with exotic cocktails.  We'll just have to make our own!!  At Freeport, we’ll sit in the marina to wait for weather to cross the Gulf Stream to West Palm Beach - an overnighter or very early morning departure.  (WPB entry to US; clear in at immigration). 

West Palm Beach, FL to Norfolk, VA: Intra-Coastal Waterway, 7 weeks motoring with stops along the way at historical or interesting towns including St Augustine, Beaufort & Savannah.  We usually do about 50 miles per day, anchoring (mostly).  Florida is the most settled part of the ICW; other areas can vary between settled but open, to quite remote. 

Norfolk to Deltaville:  Norfolk leads us north to Chesapeake Bay for a week of river sailing.  From here we can experience America’s early history with interesting settlements and Revolutionary War sites along the way.  Anything really, to distract us from the clean-up ahead.

Deltaville to haul & fly home: 2-3 weeks; Richmond Airport to Dallas to Sydney is our escape plan if Qantas is still offering this flight.

So, there you have it, a total of 30 odd weeks.  We still have high hopes of covering this in less, say 24 to 28 at the most.  Although, given this is our 5th trip along this route, we feel like we’re running a yacht delivery service!!  "Don't even think about it!" to quote GS...

Outlook as we travelled south on the ICW last year.

Christmas Present

Graphics courtesy of  Graphics Fairy

Yes, it’s that time of the year again.  Amazing how quickly it sneaks up on you!  Rather than sending out newsletters this year, our adventures have been mostly covered over our 7 months of Windjammer3 travels anyway.  Of course, you're reading the blog now, so there's no need for a Link to it.  It's surely guaranteed to get you snoozing!

We trust Santa brings joy to you and your family this festive season, where-ever you are; under a blanket of snow or basking in tropical sunshine.  Have a wonderful and peaceful Christmas and New Years, and allow at least some time to kick back and relax.  After all, you will need to be match fit for a game of cricket (or tennis) and have that barbie fired up, ready for Australia Day.  Lamb chops and lamingtons essential.

WJ3 & The Motley Crew 

End of Season 14

A red sky at night. A sailor's delight (Scarlet Ibis, Caroni Swamp)

After a rest onboard recovering under the aircon, it was time to set about final chores.  Our going home date was nearly upon us, and we all were looking forward to getting back to Aus.  It has been a long 7 months and a very long way from our February start in Deltaville.  Perhaps our biggest issues were lack of internet and mobile phone connectivity.  Aside from Miss WJ3 expecting regular attention from our trusty Cap'n. 

We really like Trinidad. It has character, is self-reliant and industrious. Undoubtedly there are safety and security issues (check SmartTraveller) but on the whole, people are friendly and obliging.  We found YSATT and Trinidad-Cruisers websites very helpful.   Jesse James, Members Only Maxi Taxis, offers regular shopping runs as well as organised tours of the island from our boatyard.  He is also an Ocean Cruising Club (award winning) Host and a designated Agent, offering assistance with clearance preparation.  We should have used his services on entry.  Trinidad now requires Visa entry for Australian citizens.  On presenting to Immigration, we were admonished for not having arranged one beforehand, then thankfully, a costly, limited stay visa arranged on-the-spot.  We were warned not to overstay.  On departure, GS was the subject of two security checks in the hour before boarding.  She blames her backpack, always stuffed too full of computer & boat electronics.

Now that we are home, a quick fact check on SmartTraveller reveals that T&T does not have an office in Australia.  You are thoughtfully advised to travel to the nearest office - in China!  However, not all is lost.  We are officially advised: “You don't need a visa if your visit is for tourism for less than 90 days. However, you'll need to pay a visa waiver fee to Immigration Services when you arrive.”  Let’s see how that goes!  I suspect déjà vu.  So, without further ado, it's time to present our end of season tally:

End of Season 13: Our figures for 2023 came in as follows:

From: Deltaville, Virginia USA Lat/Long: 37:33.116N 76:19.817W Date/Time: 16/02/23: 0930

To: Chaguaramas, Trinidad Lat/Long: 10:40.993N 61:38.029W  Date/Time: 23/08/23: 0915

Time Taken: (this year): 512.5 hrs  Distance: (this year): 3171nm

Distance Total: (since 2008): 28,282nm  

Weather: From skating on ice along the ICW to dodging seasonal depressions in the Caribbean, we had it all again this year.  Really had to keep our eyes on the weather, although predictions often came as forecast.  We used our new Iridium Go. Particularly helpful as we didn’t always have internet or even a phone.  Just in case you think we’ve been moaning about the weather just a wee bit too much, I shall leave you with Noonsite observations for Caribbean weather (3 Mar 2023): “unsettled weather in the Caribbean; unusual, relentless winds and squalls making it challenging to move”. Yep. That about covers it!

Fastest Speed:  We moved with some haste despite challenging weather.  It was not the perfect Caribbean weather for guests, often limiting where we could go & what we could do.  But who could have predicted that – on a boat?  Needless to say, lots of boat gear gasped a last breath under the stress, so too much time was spent fixing stuff.  And guaranteed, always in challenging places! 

Farewell Dinner & Mr Lozza's Birthday Party

Brushing Up on (Boating) History

Our whirlwind tour of the island & La Brea Pitch Lake.

Mr Lozza was appointed WJ3 Tour Rep.  After Caroni Swamp, we had hopes of organising a tour to another twitchers’ favourite, the Asa Wright Nature Centre, home to over 250 bird species.  It was not to be, with day tours running at costs into the hundreds, well beyond our budget.  Instead, we bravely hired a car for a couple of days.  Perhaps it was really the lady who owned the car that was brave!

This Vidiani map is busy enough without highlighting our route; towns are well marked.

For our first day, with the Cap’n at the wheel, Canadian Kevin riding shotgun, and Mr Lozza, doing the nav, taking us on a circuitous, clock-wise route, off we set to see the vistas of Trinidad.  Advice to anyone planning this road trip, road conditions (traffic & maintenance – well, lack of it) meant we took longer than expected and thus had fewer stops.  It was also low (tourist) season, so not much was open; we should have packed a picnic lunch!  Mind you, there were not many places to take a break along the route either.

Starting early from Chaguaramas in the north west, we hit the main Churchill Roosevelt Highway taking us through Port of Spain and out to follow the foothills of the dark & moody, rain forest clad Northern Range.  The Mount St. Benedict Monastery was clearly visible, and although tempting to drive up to it to see the views (and I understand they also do a fantastic afternoon tea), it was working up to be another hot day.  So, bless the aircon instead and we carried on until the highway ran out, diverted via Valencia, continued through Sangre Grande, then met the east coast at Manzanilla.  Here we stopped at the Nariva River estuary to take some photos of a long stretch of windswept (bless those trade winds too!) coastline. 

Nariva River estuary

From Manzanilla, we followed Cocos Bay down to Nariva Swamp National Park.  It is quite clear that the swamp is fighting back given the many collapsed houses and one very buckled road rather worse for wear.  A ranger/tour guide at Nariva Swamp offered to take us for a boat tour; unfortunately, we had to decline; time was against us.  After following the coast road to Mayaro, we turned west and inland to Rio Claro.  Here at last we found a computer shop with the parts our Cap’n & Mr L. needed to repair a magic box that sits under the chart table.  (Want to know more? Check out the H460 site – just don’t hurry.  It’s snail-mail paced posting!).  From Rio Claro, a winding road took us past picturesque small farms, villages and wild & fruitful gardens, all scattered with colourful temples and mosques.  At Princes Town, we eventually reconnected with a network of converging new and old highways on the west coast, confidant we could make it back to Chaguaramas before dark (i.e., dinner time).  Time then to zoom off to La Brea with hopes of catching a tour of the Pitch Lake.

Walking across the Pitch Lake led by our Guide, Francis

When you arrive at the Lake, you can’t help but wonder what on earth made you want to see this rather flat expanse, looking for all the world like discarded bitumen covered in puddles.  (First priority though, ignore the views and take a quick stop at the Museum bathrooms, the first available during our day!)  We were then greeted warmly by friendly staff and after signing on, followed our guide, Francis, off to the lake.  As we progressed over the lake’s surface, the ground moved & squeaked beneath us.  We realised this was no place to be on your own…  

Pitch, bubbling just under the top crust

Our guide was entertaining and very informed, so an hour quickly slipped by.  Importantly, the 100 acre lake is the largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world, carefully mined to ensure its depths (250ft) are monitored and maintained.  Sir Walter Raleigh, advised of the lake’s existence by native Amerindians during his 1595 expedition, immediately recognised its value for sea-going vessels, successfully using the pitch to caulk his own timber ship.  Thankfully, Miss WJ3 is fiberglass and much easier to maintain.  Try Wiki if you are not able to visit the Pitch Lake in person and want to know more.  Just don’t mention “bitumen” because that is something different.  Don't say you were not warned, ok!  

Don't stand still for too long! 

Therapeutic waters too!

Hoping to avoid peak hour traffic, a group decision (beer before culsha group?) was made not to try and find the 85 ft tall statue of Hindu god Lord Hanuman and The Temple of Sea in Carapichaima.  Maybe next time then?  So, following the Southern Main Road, we managed a quick and tidy return back to Chaguaramas, completing our circumnavigation.  Just in time for Happy Hour. 

A Red for Everyone

Deep in the Caroni Swamp mangroves

and a roosting island for gathering birds

Jesse James organises island outings and we were lucky to snag one going to the Caroni Swamp for a spot of bird watching.  We arrived after a late afternoon start at Nanan's Bird Sanctuary Tours, through a minefield of feral cats (generating much discussion!).  Here, punts were waiting to thread us into the swamp via a series of channels to witness a daily, yet extraordinary spectacle of an evening roosting of Scarlet Ibis, Trinidad & Tobago’s national bird.  This mangrove swamp itself is huge, an important wetland covering some 12,000 acres, just south of Port of Spain. 

We couldn't disturb the birds, so getting close was an issue.
 Having a big enough camera lens to get them in focus was also another!

The wetlands unique character was recognised early, in the 1930’s, by Winston Nanan, who petitioned to have it declared a bird sanctuary.  Experts have now documented over 100 bird species according to our knowledgeable guide, along with an amazing array of bugs, fish, snakes, butterflies, micro-bats, crabs, fish & rather artful vegetation.  Of course, it was all a backdrop for, initially, an excited gathering of flamingos, no less.  They seemed so “Alice”, particularly when some flew off, looking for all the world, mid-air, like escaping (Red Queen’s) croquet bats.  Then, and slowly, the main attraction began to arrive and settle.  Not without some prima-donna squabbling, but it is rather a long way from where they spend their days in Venezuela (11 miles at least - as the crow flies).  Their magnificent red feathering comes courtesy of a diet of crabs living in the swamp.  Trees, with branches drooping with more & more arrivals, seem to burst into flame.  Strangely, as dusk arrives, that bright red vanishes into mangrove greenery and a calm stillness descends.  It’s time to head back to Nanan’s and then home.

Scarlet Ibis

I can’t finish without adding a culinary note…  Whilst we floated along the channels, Jesse expertly spotted (along with our Guides) wildlife for us to photograph or just watch.  And while we kept our eyes open for Ibis and other roosting birds, he whipped up a local treat – Pineapple Chow.  This spicy (not sweet) fruit concoction is a local favourite and worth adding to your list of BBQ staples!  Here is a copy of his Chow recipe on the net.  And to finish off an excellent day, we stopped at a road-side stall for delicious home-made ice-cream.  Flavours were all so very Caribbean but we went for the usual suspects - Rum Raisin, & Coconut. 

Have you been good today? 
Jesse (in blue), helping dish up local treats...there was quite a queue