Ghosts & Screams to Spare

Brasov, Romania

Oh no...is it really snowing?

Despite overnight rain, a definite chill in the air and Mt Tampa glowering overhead all dark and dismal, the day did seem a little brighter.  In search of fairy tales, Claudia led us on a little magic Transylvanian tour of her own.  Of course, we all wanted to see Bran Castle, made famous by Bram Stocker in “Dracula”. But not before taking in a grand Peleș Palace and the Rasnov Fortress.  And why ever not - 3 castles in 1 day...  Let's get started! 

Peleș Palace in stunning surroundings

First stop though was Peleș Palace (1873).  Built in alpine villa style on a royal hunting reserve and summer retreat in the Carpathian Mountains by King Carol 1 of Romania (1839-1914), this romantic Neo-Renaissance palace is a nod to the high life.  Despite such expenses however, King Carol 1 was considered devoted to his country and renown for assisting Romania gain independence & improving the economy. 

Peleș Palace is home to vast collections of armour, art and antiques.  There are numerous large murals, imposing statues and exotic chandeliers (Murano glass & Romanian crystal of course!).  Rooms were decorated in different styles, with luxurious furnishings and fabrics; a favourite however, was heavily carved timber with wood inlay and gold leaf embellishments.  

Beautiful stained glass windows

An intimate interior (with lots gold leaf)

Then, in total contrast, Rasnov Fortress, (1211-1225 tenuous origins) a medieval peasant citadel, that had to work much harder during its life to protect surrounding villagers and farmers when their lands were under attack.  This fortress was entirely a defence mechanism with only the basics necessary to survive held within. 

We walked sturdy walls, peered in quarters that once held survival supplies, stock and items of value, climbed up to the highpoint, once a small church and heard stories of Ottoman captives who dug the well.  There was no time for painting walls, setting mosaics or planting pretty flower gardens. 

Rasnov Citadel

So, then it was on to Bran Castle (1377), originally built as a border citadel and customs post, that looked precariously balanced on its rocky outcrop.  The base is surrounded by quiet parkland and gardens – quite dazzling with autumn colours.  This of course restrains the tourist hype that surrounds it.  Stalls line the entrance stuffed with every imaginable Dracula souvenir, and if that is not enough, you can hire the Count’s limmo (perhaps it's a black hearse?) to drive you here for your visit – or a date with destiny as the case may be. 

Bran Castle

The original (rather more evocative) entrance staircase and draw-bridge has been replaced with a grand stairway (Romanians seem to love having stairs to climb – maybe it’s a fitness thing). 

Once inside the castle, Dracula’s absence is noticeable.  There are lots of photos of Queen Marie who preferred Bran to Peles, and a rickety set of stairs (a secret staircase) takes you up to her favourite retreat, set with fireplace, musical instruments, a writing desk and a bear skin rug. 

There was one room given over to details of Bram Stoker’s Gothic novel perhaps due to demand, but there’s a noticeable lack of vampires, bats, garlic, humpback servants and wooden stakes. 

Now,  I'm up for renovating my studio...

As with most of these palaces and castles, state ownership during the Communist era did much mischief.  Peleș has been rightfully claimed (at great cost) although original furnishings and art/craft collections remain in the hands of the Government.  Bran too has been awarded back to the descendants of its owners, but many of the furnishings are replacements.  Bran is for sale if you’d like it, but I’m not sure how much of the tourist dollar you would get from government coffers and after repair & renovation (conservation) costs.  Modern day bloodsuckers, indeed! 

Headless Horsemen?

Medieval Machines of cruelty (pay extra)

All this medieval darkness, suffering and haunting makes you want to make a break for something less dungeons & dragons.  Bran Castle is incredibly atmospheric.  Why not lighten it all up a bit then?  So, in (more or less) the words of Dr Frank N. Furter  "Welcome... Do come upstairs for a bite."  Of course, that immediately makes your feet start tapping to that oh. so. famous. dance routine that rings round in your head as you boogie your way round the castle walls.  (The Rocky Horror Picture Show, 1975 - but you knew that anyway, right?). 

Downtown Transylvania

Brasov, Romania

Brasov now.  City view with the huge Black Church and Mt Tampa, black & sultry behind

Brasov then. Great signage of the medieval city & note the interesting city emblem (top right)

Market Day in the City Square, Brasov

Brasov was settled by Transylvanian Saxons in 1141 who had, by the 13^th c, developed extensive and profitable craft and trade routes rather than scary stories of vampires.  In hindsight, this would have been even more profitable and perhaps helped to keep invaders away. To secure vast fortunes and protect citizens’ livelihoods however, massive city walls, 12m high and 2 m thick, were constructed around the city.  Towers were erected by various craftsman guilds at pre-determined points along this wall.  Craftsman, including weavers & artists, obviously had a secondary career in defence (a challenging thought indeed).  Today, a few remaining elements of this old town exist in complete harmony with a surrounding busy, and rather trendy, modern city. 

There was a little tourist action happening in the town square when we arrived

We tourists were lucky the rain held off until the late afternoon.  This gave us the chance to get into our hotel without getting wet, do the rounds of the old city on a walking tour with Claudia (not wwg – walking with George) and have lunch in the main city square at one of the many open air Saturday market stalls.  We had the local version of hotdogs – wiener rolls, served by a youth who definitely needed to try another industry for work.  After a little rest to let the sausages settle, we did our own walking tour, ending with a quick visit to the Ethnographic Museum.  This small space was packed with a brief overview of traditional textile manufacture methods and stunning embroidered regional costumes. Anyone interested in the Romanian textiles we saw, follow this link: Textile Tourist Romania.

Walking medieval city walls

Catherine's Gate, the only surviving medieval city gate

Aptly named Rope Street - narrowest in Romania

Massive & very Gothic, Black Church

Brasov’s other claim to fame so legend has it (the usual qualifier & not widely discussed), is that THE Pied Piper led captivated Hamlin children here.  Or maybe he didn't.  Fairies, witches, dark woods, wolves…  And you thought it was all mere fable!

Back for a sausage sandwich at the market stalls in the city square

Bars & Baars

Viscri, Romania

After settling in, we went for an orientation walk & were joined by some locals

Viscri is a tiny village of Saxon origin (although settled earlier by Hungarians), and therefore German speaking.  The village has a small fortified church (1100) where many years ago locals would retreat in times of attack.  It makes you realise how challenging life must have been in those days.

And understood why there was a good view from the lookout tower of the fortified church

Then we met the neighbours busy making wine,

and spelling his horse before going for a bit of a drive.

For accommodation, our group was split between three Saxon houses in the village, all owned and restored by host, Walter and his wife.  The rooms had warming fireplaces, original furniture and cosy feather pillows & quilts – European style.  Yep, winter was well and truly on the way!  Luckily, dinner was served in the cellar of our quarters so we did not have to wander far in the cold, sidestepping cows, goats, sheep, chickens, dogs, cats and pigs returning from a day in the fields.  We did though, do a pub crawl, much to the amusement of locals; well, two bars didn't present such a huge challenge!

Sleeping options were a tad traditional (yes, it's a drawer)

But GS preferred something a little more lavish (this was in the museum)

The local community runs a “sock project” and we purchased a couple of pairs of felt slippers that came in exceedingly handy as temperatures plummeted to single figures.  We also spent an hour tasting locally made jams.   The lady who makes them is part of the slow food movement and was about to embark on a trip to Turin (yes, Italy!) to have hers judged.  She was hoping to win with her two new jams, rose hip and gooseberry?  They were exceedingly good!   Just in case you want to stay, Prince Charles also owns a rental house in the village.  Does he know something about the property market in Romania that we don’t? 

Next morning, we waited until rush hour subsided before setting off

Now, who can remember which house had we stayed in?

In all it was a highly romantic experience out in the countryside surrounded by horse drawn carts (noting lucky red tassels on every bridle), watching farmers using wooden pitchforks making old fashioned hay stacks and others making wine and gathering firewood in preparation for the oncoming winter.  Two fat pigs scoffed food in a barn at the back of our house and roosters crowed all day, ignoring us completely.  Don't forget fella's that slow food's not all vegan!! 

Down in the Salt Mines

Sighisoara, Romania

Salt stalactite cascade

It was going to be a long drive.  Maramures to Sighisoara.  We were offered an opportunity to make it even longer with a stop on the way at a salt mine (followed by a very quick pastry shop stop for lunch!).  Thinking ahead however, we made a quick detour to pick up cookies George’s mum had made especially for us to help survive the drive and see the salt mine too!.  Really, travel is about taking chances/opportunities & also, trying new and exciting foods…  

The Salina Turda (salt mine) was simply beyond our imagination; once a place of unbelievable suffering, now a ritzy health/tourist resort.  Having made our way underground, we visited the Terezia Mine (a conical or bell mine) 112m deep with a lake and island (rowing boats included), a cascade of salt stalactites and a ferris wheel.  Gizela Mine has a spa treatment room and no-one is allowed below for more than 5 hours.  It is an incredibly interesting place if only to note that tourism knows few bounds.

Bet you don't think this is the salt mine. Now fun & health park in one!
Note yellow row boats on lake at the bottom of the mine.

Our accommodation in the old town of Sighisoara, Casa Wagner, was right on the main square, Cetati Square.  Being a castle town, we’ve discovered this means being on top of a hill (most important for defence), loads of narrow, cobbled streets, steep stairs and labyrinthine medieval buildings.  In all, a great workout before dinner!  The town itself dates from Roman times and its citadel (1191) now assured preservation with an UNESCO Heritage listing.

Castle Keep, Sighisoara

Now this is beginning to look a lot more Dracula

Sighisoara is the birthplace of famous Romanian, Vlad Tepes, better known as Vlad the Impaler, (1431) who is said to have inspired Bram Stoker’s Gothic novel, Dracula (1897).  Dracul in fact, was a chivalric order (Order of the Dragon) founded to protect Christianity in Eastern Europe.  We heard quite a few stories of this cruel but exceptional leader of Wallachia.   We worked out (as you would) that he had impaled somewhere in the order of 95 individuals each day over his years of rule.  The old, sick, infirm and crazy were victims for certain.  Cetati Square though, was the place for witch trails, executions and impaling.  So you could come for the market stalls and craft fairs and stay on for a bit of live entertainment.

Meet Vlad and

Vlad, and

Vlad (after Bram Stoker got hold of him). 

Vlad, however, proved his worth in defending the town from equally pitiless Ottomans.  With only a small army, he defended the citadel against greater odds, until he himself was ruthlessly betrayed and assassinated.  His life story is quite a read and certainly allows one to grasp the fragility of life in those times.

Wow, I think I've just hypnotised a wolf...

A Church for all Seasons

Maramures, Romania

 

Horse & cart was everyday transport

Maramures is a traditional region of Romania that has managed to cling to its rural ways despite the communist era.  We were lucky to have a wonderful two day homestay with Ramona and her family in the village of Vadu Izei.  Nicolae gave us a guided tour of the area with a picnic lunch overlooking the small village of Breb out in the countryside. I seem to recall that Prince Charles (well, his Trust) had bought a few houses in the village.  Our tour included a "happy" painted cemetery, the Sighetu Communist era prison now a holocaust museum, an example of a heritage listed wooden church, a farm using antiquarian water-driven tools, a tasting of local liquor and then to right all wrongs, a visit to a monastery. 

The Merry Cemetery of Sapanta where every headstone also tells a cheeky  story of their lives. Most famous is the nagging mother-in-law. This lady (above) is felting.  No-one appeared to have been a quilter!

Sapanta Cemetery with it's wooden church under reconstruction

Not cream cakes at a a picnic lunch!

Budesh Josani Church _UNESCO listed wooden church

Wooden church interior covered in frescoes & carpets

Even the metal headstones were extraordinary 

Sarbi Village Antiquarian Farm with water powered tools. Our host makes merry too and offers us tasters of hornica, a type of local plum brandy.  The Cap'n preferred this to his picnic lunch.

Finding the source of local liquor (a tap in the gate post!)

Barsana Monastery Church: last wooden church built and place of pilgrimage

It's not Eiger but Eger

Eger, Hungary

Love locks?  More about that in Vilnius, Lithuania...

This is the 2014 Intrepid Eastern Europe Tour. We finished
in Istanbul (for a third visit), but that was certainly no hardship!

After a much-too-fast day exploring Budapest by bus, it was time to meet our Intrepid Guide, George, and undertake an interesting inner-city walk with our fellow travellers. (Note: we had only just missed a chance to visit the opera or ballet.)  Next morning, we boarded a local train for Eger.  Now GS had visions of Eiger (yes, of course that’s in Switzerland) and was somewhat shocked to find that Eger was a small village in a wine growing district.  With only a few low hills in what was otherwise FLAT lands...  Oh dear! 

Solid medieval walls of the Castle

We took a walking tour of town through its historical precinct calling in on the cathedral, a large central square in the town, a rather out of place minaret, thermal baths from Roman times and the ruins of a medieval castle built in 1271.  Eger is said to have more listed buildings than any other city in Hungary.   

Cathedral - austere on the outside, painterly within

Another church, seen from our vantage point on the Castle walls

17th c Minaret 40m high and pencil thin

Our next “burden” was a wine tasting.  We walked down into the Valley of the Beautiful Woman (Szepassonzy volgy) where local cellars are caves cut deep into soft tuft rock. Following a Tartar invasion in 1241 (Mongols – yes, they got this far in Europe!) new methods of grape cultivation and wine making learned from the French were introduced into this area.  

We sampled three (or was it four?) whites before moving on to a rose then reds.  Of the three reds we tasted, Bulls Blood is the most famous.  Our hostess was something of a local character.  She was rather enjoying the party with us, and other patrons, down in her cellar.  Of course, she had also arranged for a 3 piece “gypsy” band to serenade us.  We tottered home, finding the cold night air rather refreshing.

We were served by our hostess from a large pipette rather than bottles

And the Gypsy Band played on - down in the very small cellar

 Debrechen, Hungary

We had a couple of hours to roam the streets of Debrechen whilst waiting for our train to Romania.  The town was rather definitely a "tidy town" winner, with a large central square surrounded by many grand buildings of the secessionist style.  The local flower markets were also quite beautiful with many buckets of bright orange pumpkins, pretty pansy seedlings and large colourful chrysanthemums out for locals to buy. They were very inexpensive by our standards too!

 

After this little expedition, it was goodbye to Hungary and on to Romania.

Debrechen Station

Communist era mural (at both ends)