Diving, No Diving; Marina, No Marina…

Although tempted to stay and explore Puerto Rico further, home was calling and we needed to keep moving.  Having said that, we declared an additional stop at La Parguera.  A party town with miles of fringing reef, had been squeezed into the itinerary.  Cap’n Diver Dan was keen to put the snorkel on and perhaps find a stray lobster or two.

After anchoring, and wasting no time, Bruce the Brave was launched and off the Cap’n putted in search of ice.  Perhaps it was to keep our (possible) lobsters fresh.  Who knows?  The outboard had different ideas and there was our Cap’n adrift.  Thankfully, some kind hot-water boaters undertook the rescue mission, and stopped to give him a tow back to WJ3.  The nearest coral reef had a couple of mooring balls free but were they adequate to hold WJ3’s tank-like build?  Also, it was a very popular spot with lots of folks in the water.  Maybe not quite the dive the Cap’n was hankering for.  So, we stayed put, and after the evening’s “back to the boat ramp” rush hour, we settled down for a very still night.  

We have failed to mention a rather intriguing observation.  GS had noticed a rather large zeppelin floating above Puerto Rico’s south west corner.  With spy balloons and hovering drones recently seen in American skies, this rather plump floater seemed suspicious.  GS took loads of photos.  Nobody else seemed the least bit concerned.  From our anchorage in La Parguera, it became apparent that the blimp was tethered, and by nightfall, had been pulled back down to earth.  We later found out is indeed a tethered aerostat radar system (eyes in the sky or as someone called it, Fat Albert!) for the Coast Guard.  The Coast Guard certainly needs all the help they can get along this coastline.  

Next morning and lobster-less, we rounded Cape Rojo with its stately lighthouse and sallied forth squeezing between another extensive reef and the coast, making for Puerto Real.  Christmas bookings and a continuous flow of Caribbean bound vessels meant our chances of a stay in the marina were slim, so we happily stayed on anchor.  Meanwhile, we refuelled, purchased a new battery for the bow thruster, revitalising it, and feasted on lobster caught by local fisherman but expertly cooked by our Cap’n.  All the while, hoping for a weather window suitable to get us, in 3 days, to Turks Caicos.  This was to be our last big “at sea” experience.  No more over-nighters once there.  Famous Last Words!!

Doing the Tonne

We are currently hunkered down in a marina in the Bahamas waiting for a weather window to cross the cranky (at times) Gulf Stream to West Palm Beach.  So, there’s been time to update the blog, even if it’s just the words for now!  Here’s the latest…

Early in January 2025, our WJ3 site views from 2011 reached 6 figures!!  We’ve reached the stars; just over 100,000, all gold to us.  Now, we’ve said we are not in it for fame or fortune, but it sure was nice to know that so many friends are sailing downwind with us and we sincerely appreciate your support.  

Here’s a story for you!  GS’s dad, who lived on Bribie Island, Queensland (Australia) went to the corner shop for his usual Sunday newspapers.  As he stood in line he got chatting with a neighbour and for whatever reason talked about their plans for the rest of the day.  Dad’s neighbour was going home to catch up on blogs he was enjoying and he told Dad about an Aussie couple on a boat travelling round the Mediterranean.  My Dad said, as he listened to the story, he realised that his neighbour was talking about us, so they shared a good laugh over that one!  Isn’t it such a small world…

For those wondering, this figure does not include our Early Years (link to site on tab above) from 2008 to 2010, now old news but certainly part of our story.  These figures aren't accurate anyway, given our flight across platforms Vox, Typepad, then Wordpress (too geeky for us) to finally settle for the simple life on Blogger.  

For those also wondering about our future sailing plans, then the news is that we, having considered all sorts of options, including the Great Loop again, are simply going to bounce around the East Coast of the US, keeping Miss WJ3 tidy and in trim in her (and our) dotage, and catch up on places we haven’t visited or some that must be revisited.  (Maine lobsters are wanting to get to know us again, for sure!)  So, it’s simple, easy sailing we want, combined with a bit of land travel where-ever that whim takes us; so, nothing too complicated or fussy.   

Thank you so much for enjoying the ride along with us.  And keep reading!

 

In Search of Mythical Creatures

Next morning, we left Sun Bay escorted on our way by a small pod of dolphin.  We had a cloudy day but a beautiful, easy sail to Salinas, Puerto Rico.  We came onto the bank through the Boca de Infierno (don’t they have such eloquent names?), wondered about people walking over some of the surrounding reefs, and made our way through a barrier reef/island and mangrove swamp protected channel to an anchorage off Cayo Mata.  

These waters are mangrove fringed, murky and shallow.  Dotted with character boats (some are wrecks and it’s a miracle they still float), we squeezed in trying not to have WJ3’s bottom hanging too far into the channel, busy with local boats and jet skis.  We had hoped to catch sight of the elusive manatees (dugongs), with the Cap’n noticing maybe, a nose, a whisker and a splash as it quickly took cover.  No singing, so it couldn’t have been a selkie.  No wonder it fled really, as we looped round and round the bay like loonies, trying to release the main.  Yep, stuck in the mast, yet again.  Isn’t sailing such fun?  “At least,” said our trusty Cap’n, “I’m getting fitter.”  Great… 

On a mission to keep moving, our next stop was Guánica, a pleasant anchorage we found on our way down last year.  A family, on their way home form a day at the beach, came over and invited us to their New Year’s celebrations.  The father worked part of the year in the Med, delivering newly constructed sailboats to new owners.  It was a lovely gesture from a fellow yachtsman, and certainly confirmed Puerto Rico as the friendliest Caribbean Island we had visited.  Midnight arrived, as did the New Year, and this tiny community exploded in a firework frenzy, all done locally at their own expense, with readily available fireworks.  No, nanny state stuff, just good old common sense, and parental guidance.

(Selkies are mythical sea creatures that can transform into women by shedding their seal skin.  They are also said to have beautiful singing voices according to Scottish & Irish folklore. So perhaps it's a tad too warm for them here in Puerto Rico.)  

Head ‘em up, Move ‘em out

We had a pleasant sail south to Vieques (vee-AYE-case) then turned west with the Trades behind us.  So much better than fighting into them!  Our plan was to anchor for the night and we wanted a protected cove on these southern shores.  We had at least Bruce Van Sant’s cruising guide (getting a bit outdated now) of this area so were able to cruise close enough to shore to avoid snagging fringing reefs or fish pots.  

One of the first signs that you are back in American waters is the regular VHF radio Channel 16 updates on weather conditions by the US Coast Guard.  How civilised it is to know that there is an organisation looking out for us boaters – big, small, motorised or sail.  On the way to Vieques we heard a “Pan-Pan” call for a person seen in the open waters some miles north of St Croix.  This brings home the often too casual approach boaties seem to take with their activities.

Vieques is a former firing rage used by the US and NATO for land, sea and air war games.  The Range has since been closed and developers held at bay, perhaps given the arduous task of cleaning up munitions.  This small island seems remote and isolated, yet lush with tropical green landscapes set against white sandy beaches and clear turquoise waters.  A community of locals has been described as proud and fiercely independent, as they should be, given their dedication in securing Vieques from the ravages of munitions and perhaps developers.  

We found an anchorage in Sun Bay, near to the fishing village of Esperanza.  A picturesque, coconut palm fringed beach (public at that – wow!) stretches in an expansive mile-long curve.  We had the company of two other friendly boats at anchor in this picture postcard bay.  Our only criticism was that someone had turned off the heater.  Our last swim had been in Marigot Bay when the Cap’n cleaned WJ3’s bottom, filthy after 3 weeks in the lagoon. GS jumped in then too, for a quick dip – the water then as now, was certainly no longer tropical!

Just to our east are the famous bioluminescent bays of Vieques, Puerto Ferro and Puerto Mosquito.  They are strongly phosphorescent and best seen at night.  Steps have been taken to keep them in pristine condition, so no anchoring and certainly no diesel or petrol engines allowed in these mangrove-lined bays.  The Dive Shop at Esperanza organises tours or you can paddle in.  As we don’t carry a selection of water toys and had a prior experience of it - out fishing in Simpson Bay on a full moon evening back in 2008 - we didn’t linger to see it.  Mind you, it is a curious natural phenomenon, fascinating to see little firework displays exploding around your dinghy as they rise from darker deep water below.  So much to see and do.  Ah, if only the Motley Crew were on holiday...  

Saint Martin: Saint of Broken Boats

Somehow almost 3 weeks vanished.  Simpson Bay Lagoon must be the Caribbean’s answer to the comely bird-women whose charming voices lured ships and sailors to an untimely end.  We didn’t end up on a rocky shore but rather too easily filled the time doing routine chores like food shopping and laundry, including a challenge to spend well above our lifting limit in Island Water World.  And then, there were the inevitable boat repairs.  We found Mike the electrician again, to help with AIS and VHF radio stuff but compensated by making a special effort to dine regularly at Lal’s – for the best Indian curries & garlic naans this side of India.  We marvelled at the gathering crowd of superyachts, then commented on the challenges for them.  It must be de rigueur to have at least 3 bunny ears (satellite domes) in colours to match the hull and a crowd of staff (also dressed to match) to wash acres of windows and keep a stable of water toys in good working order.  Too much work…give me one cranky Cap’n any day!

Eventually, a suitable weather window opened for a comfortable ride across to the BVI.  We paid our dues, refuelled, and then make the 10.30am bridge lift to once again meet this season’s swell out in the real world.  Our plan was to anchor for the night on the French side in Marigot Bay, then at some ghastly early hour, up anchor and make for a daylight arrival at an anchorage off Prickly Pear Island.  Serious coral reefs lie off Virgin Gorda (the Fat Virgin – thank Columbus for that name!) and are best negotiated in daylight. 

We didn’t linger in the BVI, though made a detour to take in the famous Foxies Soggy Dollar Bar on Jost Van Dyke, but didn’t stop.  Not only was a cruise ship anchored off, but the bay was cluttered with mooring balls, reputed to cost 30 to 40 USD per night.  Indeed, the BVI generally has tuned into mooring fields to accommodate growing numbers of charter fleets, mostly catamarans.  Cheap cruisers (like us) now need to search hard for suitable anchorages.

Culebra, in the Spanish Virgins, and a favourite laid-back anchorage, was in our sights.  Thank goodness, it was true to form and we settled in for a few days to recover from our crossing of the 2300m deep Anegada Passage with it’s mean reputation.  Thankfully, it was a pussy cat for us – this time!

We arrived in Culebra’s Ensenada Honda on Christmas Day and were pleased to find it near deserted; just a handful of cruisers and a few local boats on moorings in a calm and well protected spot.  Mr Resident Turtle swam by so we took that as a sign of approval.  After a few days rest, we made (changed) plans.  Rather than take the more direct 4-day route from Culebra to Turks Caicos, we’d skim and day hop Vieques and Puerto Rico’s southern coastlines ending in a short stay in Puerto Real Marina with time perhaps to explore ashore (Walmart then old San Juan for GS and West Marine for the Cap’n).  The marina is on Puerto Rico’s west coast and, with easy access through the tricky Mona Passage, we could take a day off our sail plan to Turks Caicos.  That was the theory, anyway!

That settled, we prepped for an early morning departure.  Locals though, had other plans.  It was Sunday and we were woken very early (4.30am) to a rousing chorus of Christmas carols, Latino style, at a boat dock by the foreshore.  Eventually, GS went to find out what was the go!  The dock was filling with local craft all decked out with Christmas lights and decorations.  A party was well underway.  Jet skis buzzed about looking like floating slippers.  At 5.30am, with carols and the hum of boat engines ricocheting round the harbour, the fleet assembled in line and the Christmas Boat Parade took off for a very leisurely, if somewhat unsteady, round of the bay.  Not a neighbour or house seemed to miss out on a personal round of Feliz Navidad (Jose Feliciano from the 1970’s).  So simple, yet such an inspiring event full of neighbourly bonhomie.  

As we were now up early anyway, we up-anchored and headed off for Vieques with the sounds of Feliz Navidad ringing in our ears.

 (Photos to follow, we are trying to share one working computer.  I knew we should have stopped at Walmart...)