Olympic Sports...not yet

Destination #2: Selcuk

Having explored the delights of Bursa, it was time to move on.  Selcuk was our destination, however we managed to skirt the outer fringe of Izmir, a large and robust city, otherwise known as the Pearl of the Aegean.    

Free cat with ceramic bowl...yes please!

Selcuk is a quiet little town with a big history.  Ayasoluk Hill has seen settlers since 2000 BC, now the best “remnants” are Byzantine.  The hill itself is crested with a Byzantine citadel in remarkably good condition.  Nearby, is a Byzantine church and also the Basilica of St John, said to be the burial place of John the Evangelist. (Here we had our first introduction to religious tourism...hmmm, interesting!).  A Byzantine aqueduct sits imposingly in the midst of town.  Great nests on its high spots attest to the good taste of leylekler (large white storks) who migrate into town for summer - May to September.

Every home should have one

Sitting forlornly in a field on its own is a single “composite” column, all that remains of the once fabulous Temple of Artemis (burnt down in 356 BC), one of the ancient world’s Seven Wonders.  Nearby is the Isa Bey mosque, of Seljuk origin.  The hill is also lined with carpet shops and tourist tat, making it difficult indeed to wander serenely and contemplate so many ancient “left-overs”. 

All that's left of the Temple of Artemis

We did manage however to discover a start line for those inclined to shop.  The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is overwhelming, so it was pleasant to stroll Selcuk’s few “tourist” streets for take-home goodies.  Not that we had been neglected for choice.  Every bus stop has its own little bazaar with goodies ranging from pottery camels (with gold feet, natch), musical instruments, plastic cuckoo clocks, plaster parrots to cheap clothing. 

Crumbling Hamam (baths)

Fact File: Oil-Wrestling.  Wearing knee-length leather shorts and smeared head to toe in olive oil, contestants attempt to throw their opponents to the ground.  Each match involves lots of contemplation, an occasional grab for underpants and much side-stepping.  We watched the television (with our waiters) fascinated, until our dinner arrived.  One waiter said he enjoyed watching the sport but much preferred camel wresting.  The females are cranky he told us.  And they bite…  Now that’s reality television for you!

Oil Wrestling (From Wiki)

Rock Hounds

Bodrum, Turkey

With time to spare, we organised a little adventure or two to fill our busy days.  Bodrum was once Halikarnassos ruled by wealthy satrap, Mausolus (376–353BC). He also commanded a fleet considered to be the most powerful in the Aegean.  Mausolus’ tomb, the Mausoleum, was one of the wonders of the ancient world and we were keen to see what was left of it.   Bodrum was also the birthplace of Herodotus (485-425BC), the first person to document a history of both his surrounding locale and perhaps more importantly, the known world.  

This layer of rubble is all that is left of the once incredible Mausoleum

Our first stop, located within easy walking distance was the Mausoleum site.  After Mausolus’ death, his sister/wife undertook completion of the planned tomb, calling on greats of the ancient artistic world to assist.  The wondrous marble tomb is said to have been standing when Alexander landed here, then rediscovered (1522) by the Knights Hospitaller from Rhodes when they captured the strategically located city.  An account of the day has the Knights breaking down the tomb for lime and marble slabs to shore up their castle whilst pirates plundered its treasure. Others believe it succumbed to earthquake damage well before this time.  British excavated in 1857, followed by the Danish in 1970-77.  Work continues albeit slowly; enough to piece together drawings and models of Halikarnassos during Mausolus’ time.

The modest chapel in the Castle grounds

English Tower with Henry IV's coat of arms & lion

The Crusader Castle of St Peter was (possibly) built over the ruins of Mausolus’ Palace and secret harbour.  It now hosts the Underwater Archaeology Museum in various rooms, including the castle kitchen and chapel.  We had an interesting afternoon potting about investigating finds from wrecks dating back to the Bronze Age – the earliest shipwreck ever found.  This was the busiest of Bodrum’s historic sites. The general crowd it seems is far more interested in shopping, discos and eating. We visited all the exhibits housed in air-conditioned rooms.

The Museum houses an amazing collection of amphorae

This ram's head drinking cup was found
in the Bronze Age wreck

The English Tower, built during the reign of Henry IV, is decorated in medieval style with standards, Turkish chain mail and heads of wild animals.  The dungeons, with various tools of the torture trade, were not open.  Nearby, we did see the contents of Queen Ada’s tomb (360-325BC), discovered as recently as 1989.   Ada, a Carian Princess who lived to the ripe old age of 40, was buried with some wonderful gold pieces, including a spectacular wreath of myrtle leaves. 

Ancient Theatre earning its keep (& nice view over Bodrum)

Away from the Castle, yet in full view from the marina, sits the Ancient Theatre, cut high into the rocky hillside.  We taxied up late one afternoon to find the site busy with preparations for a concert.  We asked permission to look at the ruins and were lucky to be admitted.  Although we’d seen tourist busses parked out front, the site appeared to be otherwise fenced off.  As to the theatre’s date of origin, no one seems sure, except that it existed when ancient Halikarnassos was a grand and powerful city. 

Let me be your guide for today...

Our tourist map also highlighted the Mars Temple, so we stopped on our way back from the Ancient Theatre.  This we think is one of those isolated areas awaiting an excavation team and funding.  Right now, it appears to be a few column sections and marble blocks scattered in a field with car bits, boat remains and a shepherd’s hut or two.  We did not bother therefore, locating other ancient ruins listed on our map - Myndos Gate, the Ottoman Tower or indeed the Windmill Towers.

Unusual to see a Sphinx in male form

The Cap’n managed to get even by organising a boatyard tour (by dolmus, a local bus, to Icmeler) and chandlery hop – all on the hottest day yet.  After wandering dusty industrial sites and back alleys behind the bus station (otogar) full of car repair and metalwork yards (all to find boat bits), we bussed on even further out along the Ortakent road to West Marine.  Joy of joys, it was air-conditioned!