Off the Hook

Cascais, Portugal

Ahoy me hearties: two ancient Sea Captains

Evidence that Cascais (said cash kayshh) was important as a fishing harbour goes back to Neolithic times.  If you saw it now, on a Sunday especially, you would wonder that it still retains a fishing industry at all. 

Windjammer is anchored just off a large Marina among other cruisers, fishermen and locals.  We did have plans to go into the Marina but decided it was so nice out on the hook that we would stay and do our touring el cheapo.  Besides, whatever we’ve saved in marina fees has gone straight back into dinners, pre-dinner drinkies and all sorts of other lavish entertainment befitting crew and visiting friends.  Yes, we are doing our best single-handedly to boost Portugal’s economy.

We have neglectfully not visited any of Cascais museums, admired any artworks or followed up on Portugal’s fine handcrafts.  We have not cycled the 5km to Guincho via the coastal cycle path nor purchased any colourful ceramics.  Boat and breakable don’t mix…poor GS.  Never mind, in keeping with local custom, we walk most evenings to a nearby sidewalk café and have a cold one before a late dinner; eating out or cooked on board. 

Elaborate mosaic tiling in Town Hall Square as the sun goes down

We are amazed how little, local flea markets, regular antique markets and grand supermarkets can be squeezed into Cascais old town area.  The Portuguese dress very smartly and Cascais is a very smart part of the world.  We’re even told, confidentially of course, that the local girls all have a certain walk that says “I’m a Cascais girl and I have style (and money)”.  The Cap’n in his bright Lowes boardies and GS in her Miller’s indestructibles don’t quite fit the Costa do Sol image. Oh well, not to worry - he’s too busy admiring topless beauties on sail/motor boats anchored just next door to care.     

Of course this takes us right back to Neanderthal man on the beach right here in Cascais.  At least they were actually catching fish.

'Ear we are

Cascais, Portugal

A hasty post to let you all know that we have arrived....  After 7.5 days and finally breaking free of the Azores High, we splashed into the Nortada, the Portuguese Trade Winds (summer northerlies) to sail, motor, sail, motor etc in much calmer conditions than our previous legs.  

So here we are, drinking wine (Potuguese of course!) and eating freshly grilled sardines in colourful, touristy Cascais.  Sadly, these sardines are the closest we've been to a fish over the course of our crossing, but that's another story.

BW caught up with us too.  He has met up with his Aussie mate in Portugal to experience life surfing in Peniche, a little further north of us.  The surf there is apparently much better than the East Coast USA.  

For those interested in statistics, we've just travelled 3827 nautical miles in 32 (sailing) days to get here.  And are we ever glad to have finally made it.

Lads, how are we going to fit all this into Bruce?

Boys Afloat

Crossing Josephine

Ancient Passages to the Mediterranean

Our passage from the Azores to Portugal was less than exciting (hooray, hooray) and we only saw a smallish pod of dolphin herding fish for a tasty snack, a few pilot whales plonking along until they caught sight of us and vanished, then some sea birds that appeared to be swimming their way across to Lisbon.  Yes…you’re absolutely right – we had very little wind. 

Shy Pilot Whales and a very calm Josephine. 

Those cheeky pilot whales came back to follow us late one night; we couldn't see them, only hear lots of heavy breathing.  Remember those days of anonymous, late night phone calls?  Well, GS was on night shift, so could you blame them for having a bit of a giggle? 

This area on our charts is called Josephine.  As in “Not tonight Josephine”…no wind, no sailing, no cloud, no rain.  Just an ever-present swell!!!  New York is some 3000 nautical miles directly back over that horizon!  That's about 5,556 kilometres / 3,452 miles away - port to port in a few days, if your lucky enough to be in a big ship.

Anyway, that famous mischief-maker, the Azores High, clutched at poor WJ3 for 3 days until we managed to break free into the Portuguese trade winds, called the Nortada.  Then, some days we slipped along and most evenings we were becalmed.  Finally, WJ3’s engine was cranked up….  So, our voyage became an endless motor, sail, motor, sail – well, for most of the 7½ days anyway!

Luckily, our worst problems were getting across the busy shipping lanes around Portugal's famous landmark, Cabo da Roca.  Large freighters funnelled in from nowhere and we saw more in the couple of hours crossing these shipping lanes than we had on our entire voyage from New York. True to form though, we arrived in Cascais, fortunately an easy anchorage and well-outside of Lisbon, especially when you arrive in the dark. 

WJ3 at anchor in Cascais

Having set the hook in a comfortable position (AND in sand, sand, sand not mud) we gave up the idea of travelling up river and on to Lisbon.  There’s limited or no anchoring in the Tejo (Tagus) and most of the marinas are small; full to the brim with local craft.  Besides, we fell for the charms of Cascais.  Even though it is in part very touristy, it retains its old town appeal and is quite picturesque. And little cafes on cobbled streets serve the best pan-fried sardines!

From: Sao Miguel, Ponta Delgada  Lat/Long: 37:44.3100N  25:39.8230W

To: Portugal, Cascais  Lat/Long: 38:41.8300N  09:24.8750W

Date/Time: 17/9/11: 1415  Date/Time: 24/9/11: 2200

Time Taken: 795.6nm (178hrs)

Distance:4719.6nm (870.5hrs) (this year) Dist Total: 10091.6nm (since 2008)

Weather: S-SW turning N-NW; 15kts most wind we had; 0-5’ seas;

Fastest Speed: 4.5 to 6.5kts depending upon winds & Josephine’s mood