Crossing Josephine

Ancient Passages to the Mediterranean

Our passage from the Azores to Portugal was less than exciting (hooray, hooray) and we only saw a smallish pod of dolphin herding fish for a tasty snack, a few pilot whales plonking along until they caught sight of us and vanished, then some sea birds that appeared to be swimming their way across to Lisbon.  Yes…you’re absolutely right – we had very little wind. 

Shy Pilot Whales and a very calm Josephine. 

Those cheeky pilot whales came back to follow us late one night; we couldn't see them, only hear lots of heavy breathing.  Remember those days of anonymous, late night phone calls?  Well, GS was on night shift, so could you blame them for having a bit of a giggle? 

This area on our charts is called Josephine.  As in “Not tonight Josephine”…no wind, no sailing, no cloud, no rain.  Just an ever-present swell!!!  New York is some 3000 nautical miles directly back over that horizon!  That's about 5,556 kilometres / 3,452 miles away - port to port in a few days, if your lucky enough to be in a big ship.

Anyway, that famous mischief-maker, the Azores High, clutched at poor WJ3 for 3 days until we managed to break free into the Portuguese trade winds, called the Nortada.  Then, some days we slipped along and most evenings we were becalmed.  Finally, WJ3’s engine was cranked up….  So, our voyage became an endless motor, sail, motor, sail – well, for most of the 7½ days anyway!

Luckily, our worst problems were getting across the busy shipping lanes around Portugal's famous landmark, Cabo da Roca.  Large freighters funnelled in from nowhere and we saw more in the couple of hours crossing these shipping lanes than we had on our entire voyage from New York. True to form though, we arrived in Cascais, fortunately an easy anchorage and well-outside of Lisbon, especially when you arrive in the dark. 

WJ3 at anchor in Cascais

Having set the hook in a comfortable position (AND in sand, sand, sand not mud) we gave up the idea of travelling up river and on to Lisbon.  There’s limited or no anchoring in the Tejo (Tagus) and most of the marinas are small; full to the brim with local craft.  Besides, we fell for the charms of Cascais.  Even though it is in part very touristy, it retains its old town appeal and is quite picturesque. And little cafes on cobbled streets serve the best pan-fried sardines!

From: Sao Miguel, Ponta Delgada  Lat/Long: 37:44.3100N  25:39.8230W

To: Portugal, Cascais  Lat/Long: 38:41.8300N  09:24.8750W

Date/Time: 17/9/11: 1415  Date/Time: 24/9/11: 2200

Time Taken: 795.6nm (178hrs)

Distance:4719.6nm (870.5hrs) (this year) Dist Total: 10091.6nm (since 2008)

Weather: S-SW turning N-NW; 15kts most wind we had; 0-5’ seas;

Fastest Speed: 4.5 to 6.5kts depending upon winds & Josephine’s mood