A Load of Old Bull

Angra do Heroismo, Terceira

Can you spot WJ3 nestled in this busy marina?

Bypassing São Jorge meant not only a night sail, but a night arrival in port. Again!  What is going on this year? Perhaps the navigator needs sacking - this would be our 4^th night arrival.  Maybe it’s just too, too much vinho tinto…  The friendly night guard helped us settle in and found us a great spot in the inner harbour; the reception dock being a bit too wild – the current runs strongly and WJ3 would not sit still!

Late next morning we checked in.  Again it was a very pleasant experience, so different to some of our Caribbean receptions.  The port was a picture; no wonder it's UNESCO heritage listed.  We started with an “about town” self-guided walking tour but somehow got lost in picturesque terraced gardens, still watered by watering can.  From the fragrant gardens we wound through ancient back alleys trying to find the Convent of São Francisco. 

A sweet face inside the Musseum

This is where Vasco da Gama (in 1499 no less) buried his brother Paulo on return from his voyage to India.  If nothing else, this demonstrates how strategically significant the Azores were and indeed continue to be today - the US has an airbase here, lucky them!  The Convent now houses an interesting Museum with an extensive collection of historical items.  We especially liked the dramatic props (sculptures really) used to display various equestrian items. 

Next we hired a car – a little black Panda - and did an anti-clockwise whip around the island.  High points were seeing nothing from the high point, (Santa Barbara was clouded in), walking through sulphur-fuming (very smelly)  fumeroles then finding the underground caves closed.  We did see lots of colourful shrines (so very Nepal) and wondered, for a short time only, about religious similarities.  As you might!

Our Hero

The real highlight of our stay in Terceira was being audience to a village touradas a corda.  The island is well known for its form of bull-fighting…bull-running, bull-on-a-rope, call it what you will, it’s all entertainment, spectacle and testosterone.  This event is thought to have originated from a time when villagers released wild bulls to ward off an enemy’s invasion.  Anyway, I’ll get back to you on that one!  Never let facts get in the way of an excuse for men to show their bravery, then afterwards have a chat with the lads and to get stuck into a local brew or vinho. 

Bull Handlers hoping to stop him running amok

The villagers had fun, we had fun and the bulls – well, they were a little tired, but each had his 15 minutes of fame….  (For any horrified animal lovers, these bulls don’t end up as beef steak.  They are heroes for one day a year, very much admired, then sent back to pasture to tell all their lovely ladies about the dreadful time they had playing with silly humans.) 

From:	Faial, Horta	To:	Terceira, Angra do Heroismo
Lat/Long:	38:32.0090N  28:37.5160W	Lat/Long:	36:50.67N  76:17.92W
Date/Time:	5/9/11: 1345	Date/Time:	6/9/11: 0230
Time Taken:	69nm (12.5hrs)
Distance:	3832nm (671.5hrs) (this year)	Dist Total	9204nm (since 2008)
Weather:	SE - E ; 15-20kts; 3’ seas; variable between the islands
Fastest Speed:	8kts on leaving Faial (a high) then 4-5kts belting in on the nose (a low point)

And the last word goes to the Bull...