Horta Ho!

Horta, Faial

Faial is known locally as “Ilha Azul”, meaning blue island, but from our vantage point at sea, it shone through cloud cover like a beautiful emerald.  We rounded the impressive Caldo di Inferno before sliding into the Horta Marina reception dock, WJ3 resplendent in plastic fenders, to protect her from serious concrete burn.  The Cap’n quickly completed check-in procedures and we chugged off to our “finger” at Dock C15.  We would stay here until we left, we decided.

A very busy Horta Marina

The marina is busy despite it being well past the May/June peak season.  Visitors are mostly European with a few late North American stragglers (like us).  We are rubbing shoulders with fishing boats, impressive cruisers (one with helicopter & international crew), and all sizes and shapes of sail boats.  The Europeans have a fondness for aluminium boats and the Cap’n eyes them, dreaming I suspect, of WJ4.  Some are plastic fantastics like WJ3, others are solid, all weather cruisers.  A few are certainly home designed character boats.  We share one commonality – we’ve all crossed at least a 1000 miles of ocean to get here.

Calling Cards, Character Boat & Mt Pico beyond

Not that we’re alone.  Horta has an impressive visitor’s list including Sir Walter Raleigh, who in 1597 burnt the port to the ground; Captain Cook (yes, our Captain Cook) in 1775 with less aggressive intentions; Joshua Slocum, famous single-handed sailor in 1895 and Charles Lindenburg on his transatlantic (sea plane) flight in 1933.  There are many others who in more recent times have left their “calling cards” on the harbour sea walls.  We find Brindabella, Ragamuffin and a few other Aussies amongst the hoards of Europeans, especially those seafaring Viking descendants!

The Port offers us everything we could need.  The Cap’n frequents accommodating MAYS to get “a few bits of chandlery” and sets us up with a transformer so that we can connect to the 220v system.  A large supermarket sits a short walk away and plenty of nice cafes and restaurants line the old town.  We’re tempted to try them all! 

Exploring the Old Port, Horta

When chores are all done (8 loads of washing included – still there’s a nice little bar outside to sit and have a wine or two while you wait!!) we explore the island by local bus.  The round island bus takes about 2 hours and we see impressive natural arches cut into a rugged coastline, a sparse ash desert left by the 1958 eruption of Volcao dos Capelinhos on the western tip and cute traditional cottages; whitewashed, roofed with terracotta tiles and surrounded by well tended gardens.  Happy cows graze in terraced fields, although we wonder how they don’t fall over the edge - the island is ringed by jagged basalt cliffs and we see few fences, just hydrangea or cane hedges.

Fort of Santa Cruz 16th C

Exploring the town further we visit the Horta Museum, housed in a beautiful Jesuit College.  The collection though small, is impressive especially the fig pith carvings of Euclides Rosa.  A traditional long black cloak and hood (18^th c) contrasts with sparse modern paintings by Gina Frazao.  Next door, the Church of Sao Salvador (1680) is resplendent in carved and gilded timber panels, religious statuary, and oil paintings; the interior further enriched with silver and ivory. Famous blue tiled panels (azulejos) add a local note to the glitz.  It is now easy to understand historic influences on architect Gaudi and how he came to design his famously decorative masterpieces. (Yes, yes, I know he’s Spanish….).  It’s all in the blood, you see. 

Don't disturb me, I'm very busy!
Note Paul Theroux's "Pillers of Hercules", essential ready in prep for the Med!!

All this Grand Touring brings on a thirst for a Sagres or two and we saunter with locals along the town seawall in the late afternoon to find a tempting watering hole.  Porto Pim looks nice and we chat with a friendly Dutch couple who moved here more than 10 years ago.  Why ever not?  Perhaps we should go.  In just another day or so.  Hmmm, maybe….

From:	Flores, Porto Das Lajes	To:	Faial, Horta
Lat/Long:	39:22.7630N  31:10.0490W	Lat/Long:	38:32.0090N  28:37.5160W
Date/Time:	22/8/11: 1000	Date/Time:	23/8/11: 1425
Time Taken:	135nm (30.5hrs) (this trip)
Distance:	3763nm (659hrs) (this year)	Dist Total	9135nm (since 2008)
Weather:	W turning WNW 10-15kts G20; seas 4-5’; a few overnight showers
Fastest Speed:	Poled out most of trip for a great run down to Horta; 6kts; danced with golfinhos (Atlantic spotted dolphins); sadly no baleias (whales) seen