A Little Bit Zen

Ponta Delgada, São Miguel

WJ3 at the Ponta Delgada Marina

By now you’re probably thinking…“When-ever are they going to leave the Azores?”  After our whirlwind tour of the Caribbean and East Coast USA, we’re planning to slow down a little.  Enjoy a zen inspired dock life…at least until Cap’n Restless gets an itch to move on.  So, we’ve been practising of late - and getting rather good at it!

Weather in truth, has held us in Ponto Delgada, São Miguel.  Firstly Hurricane Katia smashed against UK’s west coasts and that turned easterly winds upon us.  Not good for heading east.  So, to appease nautical gods, we went on a pilgrimage to the spa resort of Funas (by bus, we’re not into tramping). 

Furnas Caldeiras

Furnas Valley is the remains of an enormous steep-sided volcanic crater and at its centre sits a small, very neat village.  We arrived early (Is this really the centre of the village?) and had a coffee waiting for it to waken.  Still nothing, so we walked down to the terraces of smoking hot springs (caldeiras) accompanied by our appointed village guide dog.  Mud galouped, water boiled and steam hissed – it was quite a spectacular performance.  If you could stand the sulphurous smell, you could quickly boil an egg or two for lunch. 

We walked back down the main street (still nothing much open) to find the Turismo (for the turisticos) to get directions to the Terra Nostra Botanical Gardens. 

Volcanic Lake at Terra Nostra Gardens

These gardens date from 1780 when an inspired American, Thomas Hickling, built himself a summer residence, “Yankee Hall” and planted 2 ha of trees native to North America.  The house has since been rebuilt and renamed (1848), a nice hotel added (1930’s) and grounds extended by the owners, Praia (a Viscount) and then Bensaude families.  The park itself is a marvel, inspired by turn of the century British “grand” garden design and its owners have remained faithful to that concept.  What made it all the more interesting was the use of plants so familiar to us in Sydney’s temperate climate. There's even a little Wollemi Pine! 

Washing away many sins too...

Of course, we didn’t come to pay homage to plantings of hydrangea or agapanthus.  We, like the many faithful before us, came to bathe in the lake’s thermal sulphurous spring waters.  Iron stained, they bubble and steam their way from underground cauldrons to give us a milky spa bath.  These springs are said to be remedial, so we lingered, along with many others I suspect, in the hope of youth-giving properties too.  The only result - our distinguished grey locks are now tinted a ghastly mustard colour.

From: Terceira, Angra do Heroismo Lat/Long: 36:50.67N  76:17.92W

To: Sao Miguel, Ponta Delgada Lat/Long: 37:44.3100N  25:39.8230W

Date/Time: 9/9/11: 1045 Date/Time: 10/9/11: 0800

Time Taken: 92nm (21hrs)

Distance: 3924nm (692.5hrs) (this year)  Dist Total: 9296nm (since 2008)

Weather: NW; 20kts G25; turning SE o’nite; 12-15’ seas;

Fastest Speed: 4.5 to 6.5kts depending upon winds; a rolly run downhill