Windjammer's Holiday

Innocent looking cumulus clouds just looking for some very warm Caribbean water to grow into something nasty!!

Here we sit, in an often bouncy lagoon (even though WJ3 is still very securely tied to our berth, D21), daily watching towering cumulus clouds drift overhead.  This means yet another tropical wave is gliding over us; some offering more kick than others.  The end of August approaches, and this season’s outlook is expected to heat up until November-ish.  Fortunately for us in the Windwards, Atlantic conditions have changed a wee bit and these waves, with little to feed off (to develop into tropical storms or worse, hurricanes), are mostly drifting north-west of us – a bit of a reprieve, for now! 

So, tucked up in our little berth, we are pretending we’re on holiday.  A white sandy beach on a green tropical island somewhere...  Oh, wait – we are!

Looking oh so innocent, but we all know that means trouble ahead!!

Now that our second month here in St Lucia draws to a close, we tell ourselves we really have put time to good use.  The Cap’n continues to update his Hunter 460 Blog.  Exciting reading if you’re into mechanical & electrical mayhem and the many other wild and wacky delights of ongoing sailboat maintenance!  He’s also spending time doing heaps of research to help solve all those incidents that might just crop up one day – as they often do.  At present, we are still at a loss to explain why the main sail continues to get stuck in our mast.  Is it a bid for freedom?  Or why the cabin roof continues to leak every time it rains.  It is the tropics and rain it often does.  All this angst despite a fortunes-worth of sealants squeezed into every possible nook & cranny.    

An early evening gathering of our quietest neighbours, roosting egrets?

Meanwhile, the Galley Slave has prepped-up a handy to-do list of boat chores for herself and will one day get round to thinking about doing them.  Her current area of domestic expertise is fishing out little squidgies that find themselves sucked up in through the bathroom salt water inlet pump.  Meanwhile, last year’s troublesome laptop has become this year’s troublesome laptop, so uploading photos for WJ3 and the H460 blogs may have to wait until the nearest Walmart.  Meanwhile, there’s always a basket of stitching or a book to read…

So stressed out we are not; the aircon is working beautifully!  We check the weather daily, have an escape plan in mind and intend to stay in St Lucia rather than back-track south.  Anyhoo, it’s been lovely chatting but it’s almost beer time.  And a chilly, blue can of Piton definitely has our name on it. 

Looking right (south) from our comfy seats in the cockpit. Can you find the egrets?

And looking left (north)...it's a big marina for sure and a long walk to the bathrooms.
We are at the top end of the island and its flattest part.

J’ouvert or Not to J’ouvert

We find ourselves in St Lucia for Carnival.  Wiser, much wiser, following our experiences in Grenada, we’ve listened to the goings-on and gatherings from afar.  (Well, from our marina berth, actually!)  The resort opposite has had rather lively fire dancers performing over the last couple of Saturday nights and there’s been some local bands playing loudly, outsde the marina compound.  Mr L approves the music.  He assured me they were playing the Banana Boat song last night!  Interestingly, there’s been no sightings of steel pans.  Mind you, the weather has been consistently inconsistent and tropical waves, bringing humidity, frequent showers and the odd storm, still regularly blow over us.  A real tropical experience.

We booked in to stay here for a month - a bit of a luxury with restaurants, a large grocery store, laundry, tap water and…electricity!  Also, the island boasts an international airport, so Mr Lozza can make his escape at the end of July.  The hurricane knocked out those airports south of us (not Trinidad) and we’re a bit wary of heading too far north until the end of the hurricane season.  So, here we sit, taking it easy.  

Sunset over Rodney Bay Marina (Photo by L.A.)

That’s not to say, there hasn’t been any repairs or maintenance to do.  We just get the chance to space those chores out, interspersed with dingy rides to Pidgeon Point (off Rodney Bay) for some snorkelling, a game of golf and dinners/breakfasts out.  The Cap’n managed, with help from the crew, to get the main sail out of the mast and leaks in the cabin have been located and sealed.  We are watertight again!  Now there’s just some canvas work to do.

The Cap'n trying hard on this beautiful green but it was Mr Lozza,
game, set & match!  (Evidence provided by Mr L.)

There’s also been time to do even more planning!  At last report, the Cap’n had booked us in to Power Boats, Trinidad for an early September haul then fly home.  Our latest thoughts though, are to stay in St Lucia for another month, then move south to anchor in Grenada for September & October (peak months).  If another Beryl blows by, we can make an easier run south for Trinidad from there.  

In November, we’ll start heading back up the Caribbean chain, through the Turks Caicos and Bahamas, making US landfall in about Jan 2025.  We’re aiming to start in Florida from West Palm Beach.  With Mr Lozza along for the ride, we’ll follow the ICW to the Chesapeake and our “home” base in Deltaville.  It will just be a wee bit chilly at this time of year.  Indeed, a similar, speedy trip to the one we did in 2018 returning from the Med.  This will be our 5th run of the Caribbean chain, so we’re not needing to stop except for bare necessities - fuel, food and water.  So, there you have it.  We’ll hopefully be home in March giving us a whole year to tend the garden, repair the house and best of all, spend time with family and friends.

Of course, this could all change tomorrow...  

June too soon… (Oh, sure!)

Always hoping to catch sight of the green flash as the sun goes down!! 
The view from our mooring in Grenada.

Firstly, and importantly, WJ3 Cap’n & both Crew are safe and sound in St Lucia.  We are nested in a web of mooring lines, secured to a very solid concrete marina berth, and surrounded by mangroves (and the odd water-front housing estate!).  Rodney Bay Marina is also on the far north of the island.  As luck would have it for us at least, Beryl wobbled south a bit leaving us to manage with just a few intense gusts and some rain.  Not so lucky for those islands south of us!

So, why are we here?  With June too soon and July stand by ringing in our ears, we set off for a cruise of the southern Windwards.  All in aid of a dive on Tobago Cays, a chance to visit more remote islands in the chain and some sunny, clean, calm anchorages.   Our rule of thumb however, was not to be further than 2 sailing days away from Trinidad.  That made Martinique, at a stretch, our northernmost limit. 

Having left Trinidad, we set course for Grenada, arriving after a brisk sail at the moorings off St Georges Harbour.  A vast marina, set up with visions of attracting flotillas of super yachts, now occupies a section of the harbour called the Frying Pan (due to its shape).  Still, the outer mooring area was fine and we were still able, without risking life or limb, to access a small supermarket deep in the Pan, to replenish supplies.

Our skitterish hitchhikers wouldn't pose for the Cap'n

Of course, halfway across to Grenada, we attracted some rather suspect hitchhikers and soon after were nearly collected by a determined freighter.  An eventful trip this time.

From Grenada, we moved on to Carriacou, anchoring in the protection of Tyrell Bay.  Here, we became aware of a couple of tropical waves (atmospheric depressions) moving across the Atlantic from Africa.  There was potential for them to develop into tropical storms so we decided to go further north, moving on to Bequia.  Bequia must be the quintessential Caribbean harbour.  Beautiful clear turquoise water, white sandy beaches, friendly locals and a neat, tidy town.  Except the two storms were growing larger!  So, the next morning we hot-footed it to St Lucia.  Yet another rocky ride in our progress north through the Windwards!

St Vincent - a garden island

Hatches, hatches crew!!  Downpour on the way...  St Vincent

At this point (28 June), it became apparent that we now had a sizeable hurricane on our heels.  Also, best advice was that Miss Beryl could wobble further south given conditions in the Caribbean.  An escape back to Trinidad therefore seemed unrealistic, so we decided to take our chances in St Lucia. With canvas and sails stripped down, everything strapped securely to the boat, provisioning complete and water tanks filled, here we are on Monday (1 Jul) crossing everything humanly possible and waiting our fate.  

At its closest, Beryl was about 112 miles (181 km) from us.  But she did wobble south.  The eye, with predicted maximum sustained winds near 130 mph (215 km/h) made a direct hit over Carriacou and tiny Petite Martinique wreaking havoc.  Barbados to the east, Grenada on its south flank and Bequia to its north, all fell into the line of fire too.  Our thoughts are with those whose lives have been so dramatically changed as a consequence.

Beryl is certainly a gal braking records!  She’s the earliest recorded in the season, quickly gained strength, intensified from a tropical depression to a Category 3 hurricane in 42 hours then became a Category 4 hurricane in 48 hours.  Now she’s heading for Jamaica as a Category 5!

(Back in 2010, Hurricane Earl (link) met us up in Maine.  We were only 90 miles away then and well hidden thanks to Maine's amazing landscape and robust trees!)

One very smart bird...

This great lump decided that WJ3 was the perfect observation post for spotting flying fish in our wake.  Its a breakfast of champions obviously.  Despite his webbed feet, he balanced very well indeed (better than us!!) and rode with us, standing lookout, for quite a distance.  Flying off as necessary, then coming back to wait in luxury.  Better than wasting energy flying!

Sargasso weed in great clumps off the coast of St Lucia. 
 It's at the point of being a small craft hazard in some places 

Checking Out

Just before our departure date, Mr Lozza managed to squeeze in a seat on Jesse’s famous Taste of Trini Tour.  We won’t cover it here, the Cap’n and GS are hoping for one when we return!  Needless to say, Mr L had a fun, very big day out.  All he could say on return was that he was “as full as a butcher’s pup” followed by something about cracking fleas on his tummy...  Just what he had been eating?  We did wonder!

Filling up with water at the TTSA dock before our departure

Checking out of Trinidad at Immigration & Customs. Bruce waiting patiently at the Crews Inn dinghy dock. View back to Powers & other busy Chaguaramas boatyards. 

Finally, the day came to drop our mooring.  We waved farewell to neighbour, Aussie Peter on his aluminium boat, Super Tramp.  He’s much more adventurous than us and was planning a trip down to the Falklands (as you do…).  Likewise, we said our goodbyes to Bruce on Wild Matilda and Big John on Swagman.  (No, they aren’t Aussies; we just declared them to be honorary ones!)  Then it was time to decamp to a mooring out off Powers.  We still need to purchase a few more essentials from Powers Market before making our way over to Trinidad Immigration and Customs Offices to complete our clearances.  This time, it went without a hitch.  

So “Hit the Road, Jack” and it was off to a serene Scotland Bay for a brief respite before our early (5am) departure for Grenada.  We were off and running, carried by a swift outgoing tide through the Bocas del Dragón over weaving currents and choppy seas.  But it really was good to finally be making a move.  WJ3 was clearly champing at the bit for a decent sail! 

Scotland Bay happily sits in a nature reserve and is pleasantly quiet, but
only on week days.  Notice teardrop birds nests hanging from this tree.

A peaceful side deep in Scotland Bay, Trinidad

Just Humming Along

Asa Wright Tour: 21 May 2024

Views back over Trinidad's northern ranges

We were also keen to join Jesse’s tour to the peaceful Asa Wright Bird Sanctuary.  The assigned date suited us.  Well, not for all actually; the Cap’n had a major date with his other woman and the travel lift. 

Mr Lozza and the Crew set off early with a bus full of avid bird lovers and hikers.  Were we in the wrong bus then?  Never!  Jesse entertained (that means quizzed!) us again with much interesting general knowledge gained along the way.  He rewarded us with a brief breakfast stop at a saheena stall.  It’s a pancake snack of callaloo (similar to cooked spinach) with a scant chickpea batter, and deep fried.  Rather delicious! 

Not long after, Jesse turned off the motorway and headed into tropical hills.  The road was narrow and the hillsides steep, winding our way higher into rainforest, all sprinkled throughout with fruits or vegetables seemingly randomly planted.  The WJ3 crew easily won the trivia contest naming various fruit & vege varieties growing along the way thanks to our exposure to such tropical delights at home!    

And a wonderful balcony to admire the views and hummingbirds

The Asa Wright Centre has been recently re-furbished with a great deal of care.  Once a coffee and cocoa plantation deep in the rain-forested northern range, it now offers 198 acres of nature reserve.  Mostly centred on serious bird-watching, it offers other pleasant diversions such as hiking trails and cooling rock pools to splash in and enjoy. Very reminiscent of the style of Malaysian highland guest houses. 

We started our day tour on the magnificent balcony sipping tropical punch whilst hummingbirds flitted nearby to take nectar.  Our guide, Caleb, then took us down a gentle trail to spot various birds.  Which we did, but next time we’ll buy the bird guide book before we go.  Even with GS’s best lens, it was difficult to spot and photograph some of these spectacular birds.  

After our hike in the humid forest, it was time to relax in the airconditioned dining room before tucking into a sumptuous lunch. (Oh, what the poor Cap’n was missing out on!).  Afterwards, Mr L & GS rested on the balcony (waiting for afternoon tea!) while the others went hiking and swimming.  With us, a couple of serious twitchers staying at the lodge, had camera equipment appropriate for the occasion.  GS was seriously envious!  Meanwhile, we had fun in this spectacular setting trying to capture stills of the rapidly moving wings of multi-coloured hummingbirds. 

A tropical treat for the eye in the gardens

We all had a relaxing day doing as we pleased; a chance to be out of the heat, explore the tropical rainforest and see some colourful bird life.  Next time we might just stay for a few days.  Only if the Budget Committee allows. 

(Photos of hummingbirds coming...the vids are rather too large!)

Ladies of the Night

Leatherback Turtle Tour: 17 May 2024

Back into the routine of listening to “Morning Prayers” (a Cruisers Radio Net on VHF68, 8am Mon-Fri), we heard that Jesse James continues to offer his shopping runs and local Trinidad tours to cruisers who hibernate in Chaguaramas for the season.  And luckily for us, it was well into Turtle season!!  We were able to snag seats for one of his midnight tours of Matura Beach on Trinidad’s distant and windswept north-east coast, seeking amazing giant mama leatherbacks!

We left Powers at 5.30pm, drove through Port of Spain joining the motorway at the back-end of peak hour traffic.  Jesse entertained us through the long drive on everything we ever wanted to know – from turtles to Trini life (especially local foods).  It was a Friday night, so the locals were in full limin’ mode when we stopped on-route for vast plates of Chinese chow, albeit Trini style, with generous sploshes of ketchup, mustard and chilli sauces. 

Chinese Dinner with heaps for a doggie bag or three.

From there it was off into the wilds of Matura Beach where we were met and briefed by Wardens and our Guides.  All were locals from nearby villages, deeply concerned for the protection and welfare of these gentle maidens who swim the seas returning only to lay eggs. 

A quick group shot. Thanks to Jesse. 
You get a good idea of their size!

Of course, we had to wait while spotters up and down the beach reported in.  There was little action for the first hour or so; sightings negligible as strong winds and challenging Atlantic currents ran close to shore.  So, with red torches aglow, we were encouraged to walk the beach south.  After about 45 mins or so, the three Motleys decided, with no sightings, it was a lost cause and turned back. Only to spot a giant lady, done with nesting, making her way into the waves.  How we did not trip over her on the way up was anyone’s guess!

The support team at work: they check every turtle they find

Further on, we joined a group watching the progress of another younger turtle having problems digging her nest in soft sand.  She was not tagged or chipped, so that sent quite the thrill through a team of wardens, scientists and volunteers.  During the season, quite a merry band of workers monitor as many turtles as possible to track their whereabouts and well-being.  We simply try our best to be unobtrusive and enjoy the spectacle of nature.

Last, but not least, we encountered a grand old girl who knew her stuff and got down to giving us a wonderful performance, tears and all.  A standing ovation, no less and yet again, a night to remember!

Another clutch of eggs.  All in a night's work

Go Splash!

Chaguaramas, Trinidad

Just shy of 6 weeks on the hard, we finally splashed.  Yahoo!  Given that the Crew had other plans for the day, our trusty Cap’n was left to cope with this ordeal all on his lonesome.  We couldn’t delay the splash; it’s currently peak haul-out season and yard booking chances were getting slimmer by the day.  Staff were busy re-stacking boats to make room for at least 22 incoming catamarans and Peakes Yard down the road was nearing capacity too!  Word about the yard had it that another boat was waiting (patiently) for us to leave.  So, our Cap’n did!

Looking good & ready to go!

Further, he had to move WJ3 to a mooring the next bay over at TTSA (Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association), a friendly, low-key club for locals with a few spare moorings to lease out to the likes of us.  Here was a chance to get the fridges going, make sure the generator worked and that we had sufficient power to run the boat before striking out for remote anchorages and sunny skies.  (You know, actually doing the fun stuff!)

At the TTSA dock trying to get aboard Bruce gracefully!

During our time at Power Boats Yard, we’d not been idle.  WJ3 seemed endlessly full of tradies and workers.  We hid below daily in the company of Walmart’s teeniest air conditioner (in temperatures well over 36 most days), and yet somehow managed to achieve a readiness status that the Cap’n was (sort-of) happy with.  Into this impossible climate, we welcomed Mr Lozza, a glutton for punishment it seems, for an opportunity to cruise the Caribbean’s windward islands during hurricane season.  Life is never dull for WJ3’s Motley Crew!

Port of Spain lit up in the distance after a storm blowing over cleared the skies.
(Taken from our mooring at TTSA)