Cyclades by Ferry_Part 2
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The original frieze at the Museum |
Visiting the
Museum allowed us a little more “artistic” licence when visiting Knossos - a
field of ruins, a sea of visitors and, with a one way walking track, little
chance to roam off limits. Whilst there
is some vitriol directed to Archaeologist Evans for “restoring**” parts of the
site, I think it engages you more with the palace as it might once have been, and I’m
guessing that having given his life to studying the Minoans, he should, if
anyone, have had a better chance of visualising the great beauty of the grand Palace of
Knossos. We floated in and around palace
ruins (sans guide - brave!), just trying to take its measure.
**It's that old argument of restoration vs conservation. Never easy, but when you see how brilliantly restoration can be done then maybe it’s not so bad.
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How it might have looked. On site, Knossos |
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Knossos: Bull Relief, north entrance |
The mythical
labyrinth that once housed a Minotaur (half man/half bull) is said to have been
close to Knossos. Legend has it
that Theseus slayed the Minotaur but just for good measure, our wonderful hero,
Hercules was sent to capture it as his seventh labour. King Minos was obviously spoiled for hero
choice.
Long after
the Minoans became legend, the Venetians came a knockin’ (1205–1669). Here on Crete, following the 4th
Crusade and as part of the Byzantine Empire, they established a series of
fortifications and shipyards along this most valuable of trade routes. The Ottomans were also keen to acquire this
strategic Aegean island, so these forts at Hania, Rethymnion and Iraklion were serious
constructions.
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Venetian Dockyards, Hania
(once at the very water's edge) |
We travelled
to Hania by local bus following a spectacular, though rock fringed,
coastline. El Greco, a famous artist of
the period had family connections in Hania, so it seemed appropriate that not
only should we wander the quaint old streets and warehouses there, but stay in a
hotel called El Greco.
Nowadays these streets
are lined with stacks of markets, dress shops, souvenir sellers and cafes;
probably in much the same manner it was back then. Just for good measure, we visited a Venetian
dock that houses a replica of a Minoan ship. Having seen the remnants of a Bronze Age ship discovered
near Bodrum (in Turkey), it was fascinating to compare the two and imagine another
Greek hero, Odysseus, setting off for Troy in one of these seemingly fragile
craft.
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Boats & stuff...oh goodie! Hania |
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Model of a Minoan Ship in a Venetian Dockyard (now Museum), Hania |
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Mosque of the Janissaries, Hania |
So, with our
journey through the Cyclades over, it’s time to return to the calmer waters of
the Ionians and “relax” over a little boat maintenance before setting off on another
adventurous voyage ourselves.
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Venetian Fort, Iraklion |
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Morosini Fountain, Iraklion 17th c Venetian, really needs some TLC |