Still in Search of Gladiators

WJ3 Crew enjoying an evening's refreshment 
at the Marina Restaurant.  Well, Romans drank wine too!  

Pula, Croatia.  Roamin' the Ruins, Part 2

And so the fun in Pula continues: (Ed's Note: I've split this post in two to make room for lots of photos...)

Pula's Cathedral
(still getting used to that wide angle lens)

#5. Taste Test #1. A refreshing local San Servolo (Istrian boutique) beer.  Mmmmm!  Especially good on a really hot, humid day!  Despite the heat, there were lots of tourists about enjoying the ambience of the old town, its narrow, cobbled streets and shops-a-plenty.  Mid Roman ruin hunting, we took to the shade, ordered a local beer and watched it evaporate!  Then it was back on the tourist trail.

#6. Cathedral. Pula Cathedral "Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary" is quite medieval and plain with thick walls telling of a defensive life over the years.

Only a few mosaics from the 5th c church constructed here remain.  One sarcophagus, of several found in 1675, is said to contain the relics of St George (of the dragon fame).

Earning its keep.  I guess Spartacus would not recognise such progress! 

#7. Roman Amphitheatre. This three-level arena dates from the 1^st c AD and was only used for gladiator fights in the 5^th c.  Although smaller than Rome’s Colosseum, it creditably survives as the 6^th largest and most complete amphitheatre.  The Venetians however had their eyes on it and had plans (16th c) to remove it stone by stone over to Venice.  Perhaps they were short of slaves that year! 

Below the arena, tunnels and rooms once used to house animals and other gladiator fodder, has now been transformed into an interesting museum with a few artefacts from a nearby and once impressive Roman villa.  Currently the amphitheatre is regularly used for opera, concerts and outdoor films.  Lions, gladiators and Christians thankfully no longer thrash it out.

A museum with a large collection of amphorae found on site

#8. Lighting Giants on Uljanik.  This is one imaginative disguise for those enormous shipyard cranes that are otherwise a daytime eyesore.  At night, they transform into colourful heron-like creatures with red pom-pom hats.  In Austrian times (1797 -1910), Pula had become established as a major Naval Dockyard and it still retains much of this industrial flavour.

#9. Taste Test #2.  Lashings of seafood for dinner dockside at ACI Marina  restaurant served with a quaffable local (Istrian) dry white wine.  Mmmmm!

#10. Fireworks to celebrate his Captainship’s Birthday.  Really a coincidence and we’re not quite sure why, but 10pm fireworks lit from a barge off the nearby Customs Dock, gave us a front row seat for a spectacular show.

We did miss a couple of interesting things – the Zerostrasse (or WW2 underground tunnels) and the Hercules Gate dedicated to our wandering do-good hero. 

The pretty Brijuni Islands sit just outside Pula's harbour - just far enough for Tito to build himself a little summer retreat.  Here it is said, he hosted royals, the rich & powerful, and to lend an air of sophistication, the fashionable set. 

Pula was also home for a time to a young James Joyce and his family.  Here in 1902, he taught English and wrote "A Portrait of an Artist as a Young Man".

In Search of Gladiators

Oh, wow!  Look what's at our marina doorstep!

Pula, Croatia.  Roamin' the Ruins, Part One

Pula has a large harbour and although somewhat industrial, it offered a few good anchorages off shady woodlands, in shallow & protected areas.  Rather nice in the heat & humidity!  However the internet allowance ran out and our generator continued to play up, so back to the hardworking Waeco and warm beer.  The Cap’n assumed his crouching position deep down in the bilges, and spoke nicely to our temperamental “x5!zz**!%” Queen of Broken Hearts.  But it all came to naught.  So we booked a marina in Venice for 2 weeks and skedaddled.  To hell with the expense – at least we would have electricity AND cold beer!

Oh, not another Roman Ruin...

On our return, we pulled into the ACI Marina, where JKip was waiting.  Yes, the ferry beat us...  A large Roman Amphitheatre, straight out of “Gladiator”, dominates the town skyline, especially so at night, and it beckoned us for another wee land break.  Pula’s old centre is right off the marina, with Roman ruins within easy walking distance, including a few interesting medieval churches.  So then, here’s our Pula “best shot” list.

#1.  Internet.  We walked the old city centre to find a phone shop to buy data.  Internet is the boating essential these days, especially for weather forecasting.  It’s a bit like a pilgrimage in Ancient Greek times to the Oracles at Delphi.  And our journey was similarly long and arduous but we knew our priorities…. Luckily, the Romans didn't know what they were missing out on.

#2. Arch of the Sergians & Portarata Square.  In the 1^st c AD, the Sergii Family fought in support of Octavian (later Augustus) and ensured his success in the battle with Marc Anthony & Cleopatra (perhaps the Preveza battle?).  This triumphal arch acknowledges that support. 

Arch of the Sergians...  not pretty but still standing after all these years

#3. Franciscan Monastery.  Thankfully we were given literature that explained a little about this unassuming 13^th c church and monastery dedicated to followers of St Francis. We're not sharing it with you though! 

Cloister of the monastery

Gothic interior with some lovely features.
Quite simple after the excesses of Venice

#4. Town Hall & Temple of Augustus.  The Istrian Peninsular came under Roman rule in 44BC and Pula grew to be quite a large administrative centre with many grand public buildings. 

We understand this fully roofed temple, built 2^nd c AD to Augustus, is quite rare because it has a roof. It includes a Temple to Diana (Goddess of the Hunt) and stands near the old Roman Forum and Town Hall.  Amazingly, these ruins remained in reasonable condition despite damage from shelling in WW2.

Slip Sliding Croatia

The World Factbook 2021. Washington, DC: Central Intelligence Agency, 2021.

Pula, Croatia

Rather than do the “up” story of Croatia and then repeat ourselves for the “down”, it’s all been lumped together – a Heinz variety of sorts – of our flight along the Croatian coast.  “Never set a schedule they say!” and yet we did.  Who could not, with a tempting two week stay in Venice on offer and a planned haul-out in Greece shortly after?  So rush we did.

Croatia has a sailing-friendly coastline, with plenty of safe harbours to plan a series of overnight stops.  From Dubrovnik, we set our sights on Pula, and from there planned a voyage along the Croatian coastline that would hopefully avoid too many paid moorings or anchorages and elude vast fleets of charter yachts. For the down/return voyage, we had our friend, JKip, join us in Venice and depart in Montenegro.  

Despite Croatia’s charms, it can be expensive for cruising yotties unless you have the time to explore every nook & cranny thoroughly.  (Anchorages are few and mooring are plenty - filling most safe harbours.)  We did not.  In the end however, we managed to snag some beautiful anchorages, swim in lovely clear waters and visit a couple of interesting sites.  On the way up, the wind was on our nose.  On the way back...what was that about wind?  All in a little under 3 weeks.  Was it worth doing?  Definitely. It is certainly well set up, at best to suit the yacht charter industry.  Would we come back?  Probably not. 

(Editor’s disclaimer:  Our bookshelves lack traveller’s information for Croatia.  So in the following posts, facts are few and unproven (cough, cough).  We’ll give you therefore, history according to the Windjammers with a vague promise of correcting facts, perhaps later.  And if you think we're being unkind to charterers, it's more about vast fleets, huge catamarans and tourist market attitude than individuals.)

A Fond Farewell

Fondamente Nove vaporetto stop on the outside edge of Venice

Sant Elena Marina, Venice, Italy. 

With valiant crew member, JKip, due any minute to join WJ3’s crew of vagabonds, and the end of our Venice stay in sight, it was also time to think about packing up, going back to Lido to do a big grocery shop at Conad and filling the water tanks.  Bruce too, had developed quite the shaggy beard after bobbing about in brackish lagoon waters.  Very stylish!

So, to celebrate the end of our stay we invited Mr Ian aboard for “cocktail” hour.  He kept us thoroughly entertained with a rendition of Swiss Army precision drill (yes, of course with a multi tool knife) worthy of any Military Tattoo.  Well, you just had to be there! 

Later, we sat in the evening cool at the delightful osteria in Sant Elena for a celebratory fish dinner of local mussels, crab & prawns.  It was going to be a very tough farewell.

Any room on board?  It's Mr JKip!

Sant Elena Marina had been the perfect and very convenient home-away-from-home with quiet neighbourhoods and shady parks welcoming us after long hot days of touristico-ing.  Everything we needed was either walking distance or a short vaporetto ride away.  

From our protected berth, we watched yet another huge cruise ship slowly exit the shallow Venice Lagoon and wondered what their passengers had thought of Venice.  For us, two weeks seemed barely enough time to crack the surface and get beyond the glitz of this city of treasures and masterpieces.  Obviously the heat and house wine had got to GS - she was talking summer rentals or camper vans.  Our brave Cap’n, thinking of how many more cathedrals/museums that would involve, decided to ignore her.  You get the drift...

Won't miss this alarm clock

Or watching the daily ships coming & going, keeping the Pilots BUSY

We will miss that vision of Venetian splendour 

And quiet moments on the Grand Canal

Back to Basics

Basilica San Marco & a little restoration work underway

Ah yes, a bit of a wait...

Venice, Italy.  Getting busy, indeed.

The end of our stay was drawing near and we had yet to take on the challenge of the daily queue for the Basilica San Marco.  An early arrival did little to ensure a place at the head of the line.  Furthermore, it strayed, like a procession of lost souls, into the portico of the Doge’s Palace.  However, as it moved reasonably quickly, we stayed put, with only a little grumbling…  

Finally we made the entrance where we were met by a large bouncer (a relative of the hulk I suspect) who divided us into groups: “ok, pass”, “must cover up” (no knees or shoulders in church please!) and “no bags”.  Oh nooooo!  So, following a vague wave of a chunky hand, we set off to find the well-hidden cloakroom, 2 blocks over.  Then it was back to begin a chummy conga line shuffle through St Marks.  Shuffle, shuffle, look up, two three, look down!  Despite being free to enter the Basilica, there was a fee to visit the Treasury and the Pala d’Oro (or even more dark & mysterious areas) but we were empty-handed – no bags!  So, back to the conga line party until we shot out the exit; all of 10 minutes worth of viewing.  What did we see?  Can’t remember…  Not happy, Jan….

Oh look, another queue for the Campanile!

The Campanile (Bell Tower) was a similar routine, although a shorter line and we were able to hold onto our bags.  An elevator delivered us to the top of the tower where we shuffled round to enjoy the panorama of Venice from the top.  It was from this vantage point that Galileo demonstrated the power of his invention, a telescope, to the Doge.  We saw the spiral staircase – for slender Venetians only, and 5 huge bronze bells.  One in particular was used in days gone by to announce an imminent execution.  At about a 1€ per minute of viewing time, we figured this too was a huge money-spinner for the city coffers. 

View over Piazza San Marco from the Campanile

Thoroughly disillusioned (well, almost!), we made for a coffee shop to discuss our next move.  No, we were not tempted by the smart waiters at the Florian Café, which has been operating since 1720 with a guest list that makes your eyes water.  So do the prices.  Further down in one of the Church squares (campo) we found that “caffe latte” means hot milk with coffee waved over it and “americano” gets you that shocked “this is Italy, sir” look.  Revived though, we decided on visiting the fresh food markets.

Inside the Florian
(while the waiters weren't looking)

Yes, where better than a stroll over the Rialto Bridge, centre of the commercial hub of Venice for eons (think Shakespeare’s Merchant of Venice)!  From there we walked into the markets brimming with fresh and fantastic quality fruit, vege, meat, deli and fish.  This is where the real Venetians & foodies come each day to buy amazing goodies.

Market Stall in Rialto area

Having scratched most things off our “must visit” list, it was back to the vaporetto and down the Grand Canal to see the famed Peggy Guggenheim modern art collection.  But it was Tuesday and closed.  (Gosh, the Cap’n seemed so disappointed...)  It was all too easy then to sit on board until our Sant Elena stop with a lazy recovery afternoon in mind…the best kind! 

So why haven't we got a spa pool on board?  A lagoon charter on our dock.

Keeping Faith

  Venice, Italy:  Cathedrals & Palazzi

Considered to be a somewhat plain Gothic church, the interior of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari comes as a surprise.  It is then, you realise how cavernous and intricate a building it really is.  Either side of the main door, are large monuments to Titan (1853) and Canova (1822).  Canova’s is especially interesting due to its strong pyramid shape, a rare thing I would have thought for the time.  A little further down, Titan’s “Madonna di Ca’ Pesaro” (1526) positively glows, whilst Bellini’s “Madonna Enthroned with Saints” (1488) and Donatello’s statue “John the Baptist” (1450) flank the High Altar.  This vision is made even more splendid by Titian’s “Assumption of the Virgin” (1518).  We sat briefly in the front pew, not wanting to stay unless we too were spirited away on the wings of angels. (May the force be with you – as was the raison d’etre of art in those days, and too it seems, a lot of showing off.  Well, has anything really changed?)

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari interior

Then it was over several bridges, down narrow streets and through leafy squares to find the Ca Rezzonico, another fabulous mansion, with a serious art collection. 

Typically,  palazzi in Venice are made up of three storeys.  The ground floor (at water level) is usually a warehouse & office space, the second (piano nobile) a glitzy reminder of the family’s wealth and status and used for entertaining visitors, and the third, family rooms.  The family rooms were, depending on the family, marginally less showy than the reception rooms.  Above, in the attic, were servant’s rooms.  And you would have needed a small army of them...

Remember to look up!

The Ca Rezzonico is dedicated to celebrating 18^th c Venice and visitors arrive now, as they did in days gone by via the grand stairwell into the sumptuous ballroom.  The rest of the palace is strewn with fabulous chandeliers, amazing furnishings, painted ceilings (some by Tiepolo, no less), dainty porcelain collections and endless sculptures of shining ebony slaves in chains. 

Marco Polo (1254-1324) born near the Rialto had made for China and, after surviving a stint of some 20 years under the great Kublai Khan, brought home many wondrous things.  So Venice became the gateway to the exotic east.  This fascination for the orient is evident in the furnishings in Ca Rezzonico too.  The attic also contains an extensive collection of the Venetian School of Painting and a reconstructed and completely kitted out Apothecary Shop (in the Met NYC style).  Impressive now, imagine it then…

And look closely - just don't touch!

The Lido is “the” seaside resort in Italy for new age worshippers.  It attracts the young, rich, famous and beautiful…and a few odd bods like us to check out what all the fuss is about.  But forget the beaches, forget lagoon waters thrashed by endless cigar boats propelled by testosterone driven males in, dare I mention it boys, budgie smugglers - we came for the supermarket.  A large (not by our standards) supermarket in Venice is a treat and this one is stuffed with all things tasty.  We’ll be back!!  Isn’t it all about the simple things?  Hmmm…  After decorating lessons learned from our day of in palazzi & cathedrals, maybe not!   

Some Venetian Masks were really quite beautiful

Molten Glass, Gold Leaf & Old Lace

Venice, Italy.  Take a Vaporetto to visit outlying Venetian Islands

Undecided about these cakes...squid, fish or fruit flavoured?

Having walked our legs off it was time to invest in a Vaporetto Pass (€60 for 7 days unlimited; otherwise it’s €7.50 every ride!).  Our first foray in the world of fast & bouncy boat rides in a large sardine can was a slow trip on the #1 up 3.8km of Grand Canal.  Water craft of every kind jostle for space and thankfully in the upper reaches, the waters are less choppy.  That doesn’t stop locals from travelling full pelt.  Gondoliers jockey their charges (cashed-up tourists) with amazing dexterity through this constant mayhem. Still, the Canal is quite the imposing parade of Palazzo, covering just about every architectural era and attending to the whim and fancy of the rich and famous.  We made a mental note to include a visit to one or two of these lavish establishments (those designated museums of course) just for a peek inside. 

Exotic Venetian Glass Chandelier in Palazzo Querini Stampalia

Back on dry land then, our quest was to find the Palazzo Querini Stampalia, a huge mansion in the Castello district with its promise of fine paintings, large collection of books and grandly decorated rooms.  This it delivered as well as exhibitions of modern works by artists participating in the Biennale.  The Cap’n is slowly becoming de-sensitised to the art world in general – that doesn’t mean he’s not got an opinion or two on some of the more “interesting” exhibits.

It was home early as we’d promised our neighbour, Ian, a bonny Scott on “Old Rarity”, a curry dinner and a wee dram – well a few local beers at least!  Ian also has a portable washing machine on board and GS was softening him up for a planned midnight incursion to nick this useful & hardworking domestic appliance. 

Another Glass Chandelier in the Museum on Murano

Next day it was out early for a vaporetto ride to some of the Lagoon Islands followed by a complete island circuit; a look at the industrial “outside” of Venice on the #4.1.  Yes a day afloat- strange but true.  First stop was Murano, the island of glass blowers, furnaces and shops brimming with exotic glass pieces for sale.  The Cap’n expertly guided GS towards the Museum (Museo del Vetro), worried about her recent interest in elaborate Venetian glass chandeliers. 

The museum, housed in an old mansion, proved a modern facility that covered all aspects of this challenging craft and held an interesting collection of antique glassware.  Downstairs, a special exhibition by master craftsman Luciano Vistosi, included some delightful pieces that reflected the organic energy of molten glass. 

A Fantasy Garden all from Venetian Glass. Who needs a Doll's House?

Colourful Houses line Burano's Canals

Lace Museum, Burano

From there, our excursion took us to Torcello with its lovely green fields, historical Byzantine Cathedral (Venice’s first dating from 639 AD) and Attila’s throne (no, really?) but walking and cathedrals were off the day’s itinerary, so it was on to the colourful fishing village of Burano for lunch and a visit to the famous Lace Museum (Museo del Merletto). This museum is located in an attractive old mansion on the church square and, aside from its very appealing air conditioned rooms, proved to house a fantastic collection of original pieces.  Burano lace is now sadly a scarce commodity, practitioners few and authentic pieces rarely found in the island’s lace shops.

 

So mission achieved, islands visited, crowds escaped and the Touring Budget still successfully intact…more or less.  And better yet, no delicate chandeliers or Venetian Masks to carry home.

Decorative Venetian Masks sparkle on Burano's "streets"

There’s a Change on the Way

Funeral Barge_Naval Pavillion

Venice, Italy.  Exploring all options

In the early evening of 8^th July, we noted our barometer steadily dropping.  In truth, we had never seen it so low (993) and wondered what was in store.  Just to be sure, we cleared decks, doubled lines and took down the sun awning.  By 10.30pm we were rocked by steadily increasing winds and doused by heavy rain.  Further to our west though, the town of Dolo was sadly being decimated by a tornado.  We had no idea – no TV, and at the time, no internet.  We have dubbed WJ3’s saloon, the “Hall of Ignorance”. 

This rain did bring with it cooler weather – a real bonus for us, but our previous late night’s faffing about meant a modified early rise.  We arrived at Piazza San Marco at the same time as 3 or 4 cruise ship’s worth of passengers and so further modified our plans for the day, as you would too. 

Honey, I think that cruise ship's about to head up our street...

Aside from regular “things to do” in Venice, this is the Year of the Biennale (said “bee any arly”).  There is little info available about this extensive exhibition scattered throughout the city (and only a few freebie events/exhibitions), which was enough to convince Cap’n Artless that we were not interested.  Actually, we didn’t have time in our busy schedule! 

The Doge’s Palace however offered an extension on its popular Henri Rousseau Exhibition and with NO queue (& no photos either!) we were tempted.  There weren’t as many of Rousseau’s famous works as I had expected but it was well thought out and set through various private Palace apartments.  The showing also included works by those artists who influenced, and those influenced by, him. 

Famous singing Gondoliers

This then, was a confection including Kandinsky, Picasso, Gaugin, Diego Riviera, Frida Kahlo and one very special Odilon Redon (to name but a few). The Cap’n passes on the following for your edification: “It was Rousseau who began in Western culture the worship of the child, innocent and perfect in nature". It’s in the novel he’s currently reading?!??  Is all this culture going to his head…  At least he knows from experience it ain't necessarily so - sorry boys! 

Next stop then was the Naval Museum, repository of Venice's extensive naval history, only to find it temporarily closed for renovations. Venice was without doubt the supreme naval power over many years (1380 to 1718) and many forts line the Med to attest to this.  We've come across many Venetian forts, including recently, Chania in Crete; Palermos & Butrint in Albania; not to mention the two ruins flanking the run into Prevezza.  

The winged Lion was a symbol of the great Venetian Empire

The Doge's Ceremonial Barge - the Bucintoro.  With those oars, it probably only travelled the Grand Canal.

The Ships Pavilion however was open and we were able to indulge in some traditional timber boaty stuff.  There was a good selection of craft on view, all made in Venice and no doubt many at the Arsenale.  The funeral barge was exceptionally funereal, all black and ghostly, and perhaps got a good work out during the city’s two major plague catastrophes.  The Cap’n briefly wondered about a little gold leaf work on WJ3 after seeing the Doge’s Barge, but decided that having oars requires oarsmen/women and given our lack of visitors over the years, we could still be 8 years down the track, rowing in circles off the British Virgin Islands.  GS though, wanted to trade in the Dangar Island runabout for a sleek Riva.

A Riva convention at our Marina...forget the MGB, these are seriously cool!

We finished the day at a pretty little outdoor eatery in Sant Elena (Osteria al Pampo) - well, the only one really! - and had a very nice cold, mixed fish starter followed by spaghetti with clams (lagoon locals) or crab.  We decided we needed to take proper pasta eating lessons from our Italian rellies before next year’s season.  We chatted for hours to our dining neighbour, Canadian Claude, who was also sailing his way around the world.  Only sensibly, on a cruise ship.