Cramming Spain

By now the post dump has begun.  We’ve snagged a spot (Altea) where the internet actually works and have taken a few days for admin, re-conditioning and re-provisioning, as we must.  So here’s our story so far:

Well, someone has to do it for the team....

We’ve had some long sailing days, been busy touring when in port and somehow managed to fit in time for a few chores.  It has been too cool to swim yet, although here in Altea, we’ve managed at last to cast off jumpers and work on a bit of a tan.  Club Nautico (our marina) has been a little home away from home that we’ve really appreciated.  Altea has a busy restaurant-lined promenade, a rather nice beach surrounded by mountains and friendly locals.  It also was once the place where Scipio landed and sacked the Greek colony of Honosca, so it’s been around for a little while. 

WJ3 living the high life

Spain has a seeming endless coastline with a sugar crust of tourist development between rocky mountains, fertile valleys and clear deep blue seas.  We‘re wondering if this is to be a Med syndrome or peculiar to Spain.  Either way, its tourism unrestrained!  We would prefer to meet locals and entertain them with our less than adequate language skills but it’s not always possible.  It’s nice to know what makes one country different to another, especially in a close-knit community like Europe. We will have to dig a little deeper.

Althea has a busy fishing harbour too

Some things in Spain don’t change for tourists however.  We set out for breakfast one morning – a nice early 8:30am start.  Not another soul was about.  Finally at 10am we noticed a first rush of coffee drinkers.  Well after 10.30, a nearby café opened on the marina docks.  We dashed for a table, famished! 

Lunch is said to be a major meal of the day, so it starts after 2, perhaps 3. Shops close after mid-day for hours – opening at 5ish…  Restaurants are full and wonderful cooking smells come from village homes.  Dinner then, is at 10pm.  We’ve dined on paella, mussels steeped in fresh tomato sauce and oddities like crumbed sea urchin.  As one must.  We’ve also snacked on a few tapas, small serves of interesting things to have with a wine or beer…. before dinner, after dinner, when-ever. 

Altea from a distance

Local sailors are friendly too.  If you ever meet Tony the Sailmaker buy him an orange juice on us.  Without his help and advice (not to mention a little red panda) we would not have made our planned excursion to Valencia.  These are the moments that make travelling worthwhile.

From:  Almerimar, Spain Lat/Long:  36:41.87N 2:47.53W Date/Time: 19/06/13: 1005

To:  Altea, Spain Lat/Long: 38:35.313N 0:03.297E  Date/Time: 21/06/13: 1800
Time Taken: 194nm (30hrs) Distance (this year): 553.5nm (88hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 11378.5nm   Weather: All points 1-11kts; calm & flat;
Fastest Speed: Motor & a little sailing doing 6.5kts; warming up….finally!

Big Red Alhambra

Alhambra, Grenada, Spain 

Generalife Gardens

It is worth mentioning that Granada was once one of the richest and most enlightened cities of its day.  Whilst the Spanish moved to regain territory from the Moors, an independent emirate had been established by the Nasrid dynasty with Granada as its impressive centre.  The Alhambra (Red Castle) dates from 1232, so from here for more than 250 years, princes ruled in great style.  It was not until 1492 that Isabel and Fernando launched the final crusade of the Reconquista, and Granada surrendered.  All in time for the (self-imposed) Inquisition, a 300 year long bloodbath.... 

Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Water Channel)

Our guide Francesco, would lead us on a two & half hour foot sore, camera snapping tour of this UNESCO World Heritage listed complex.   We were not the only ones that day; some 7500 visitors enter the complex daily.  We were given our appointed time to visit the Palacio Nazaries with no chance of last minute changes.  Everything seems strictly controlled; we showed our entrance tickets on at least 5 occasions.  Francesco had done this tour before and we had every confidence in him to explain every inch of this warren of palaces, fortifications, gardens and terraces!  

Summer Palace - we weren't alone

We began with a stroll through the eastern side of the fortifications to the Generalife Gardens (architect’s gardens) with its delightfully restored terraces prolific with flowers, splashing fountains, rills and pools attached to a small summer palace. Breathtaking views, framed by the palace’s graceful architecture, took in these colourful gardens, historical Albayzin below, green valleys of olives & orange groves beyond and a snow-capped Sierra Nevada.  Above the summer palace, woods of cypress and elm were once royal hunting grounds.

Jardin de la Sultana (Sultana’s Garden) with a 700 year old cypress,

tales of secret trysts & beheadings, not to mention great views!

After crossing a small footbridge into the fortified area, we moved into the Medina area, now in ruins thanks to Napoleon’s occupation.  The pretty Church of the Convent of San Francisco, now the Parador Hotel, was built on the site of the original mosque.  It was here that Isabel and Fernando were originally buried until they were moved to the more regal Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) near the Granada Cathedral.

Walking the Medina

After momentary pause, our group moved on to the Palacio de Carlos V (1527) a huge Renaissance palace.  Its square, formal exterior opened to reveal an elegant circular colonnaded courtyard.  This grand building is home to two museums and a central, open air auditorium where classical concerts are said to make good use of the building’s excellent acoustics.  Carlos, grandson of Isabel and Fernando, had a wing of the Palacio Nazaries destroyed to have this palace built.  He held, after all, the title of Holy Roman Emperor!  Whilst grand, the building sits awkwardly in company of its Moorish companions with their more modest exteriors.

Renaissance Style for Carlos V

Francesco moved us on through Puerta del Vino and into Palacio Nazaries, a rabbit warren of rooms and terraces that lie at the heart of the Alhambra.  Room after room revealed fabulous tiling, intricate wood work, remnants of bright coloured paintwork, blinding white facades, and trickling water features.  We were to learn that successive rulers had ensured the palace was magnificent – fit for rulers of an empire stretching from Gibraltar to Almeria. 

Mexuar (council chamber) and outer limit of public entrance in its day

Inside the Torre de Comares, is the Sala de la Barca
(Hall of the Boat) with its inverted boat shaped wooden ceiling

Salon de Comares

Salon de Comares with its domed marquetry ceiling, containing over 8000 pieces of cedar in a pattern of stars that represent the seven heavens of Islam.  Here, the Emirs would have conducted negotiations with Christian ambassadors.

The layout of Palacio de los Leones (Lions) symbolises paradise.  Attractive pavilions sit at each end. Only a Fountain of Youth was missing...

We “oohhhed” and “ahhhed” our way back to the main entrance to pick up the bus for a thankfully faster trip home.  Granada (of the pomegranates) and the spectacular Alhambra was certainly worth the visit.

Caves, Cathedrals & Cavaleros

Granada, Spain

With a 6.30 am pickup from a nearby hotel lobby, we just knew this was going to be a long day.

We began with a quick dash by taxi over the escarpment above Almerimar to our waiting bus in El Roquetas del Mar, the next resort town along.  On the way we couldn’t help but notice extensive plastic greenhouses enclosing fertile Murcian gardens.  They’re probably visible from space!  This area produces a good deal of Europe’s vegetables although you could be forgiven for suspecting something more sinister.  We hardly saw a soul working in them as we whizzed by.

Dang, it's cowboy country!

Initially the Motley Crew joined a Russian speaking group, however our language skills were clearly lacking.  At a desolate and rocky roadside stop, we were transferred to the English (Dutch, French and German) speaking bus.  This arid location was once used as a setting for many a Hollywood spaghetti western – a perfect choice indeed.  

Our final stop was at a super café near Guadix to (thankfully) load up with strong coffee before hitting Granada.   Guadix proved interesting due to the large number of “cave dwellings” in the area.  Houses (and a few swimming pools too) were built back into rocky outcrops.  Some were obvious; others could only be noticed if an antenna or chimney sprouted from a hilly slope. 

Cave Houses in Guadix

Finally we hit Granada, rearing to go (coffee can do that!).  Our guide, Clara, sensibly took us for a walk around town briefly pointing out some of Granada’s highlights before leaving us for lunch in the Plaza Bib-Rambla, once a setting for family entertainments such as jousting, bull fighting and Inquisition burnings.  Now the only head you will lose is your own as you walk through nearby close quarters of the Alcaiceria (Silk Exchange) trying to avoid tourist shops and spending yet more euros. 

Watching over Royal Bones

Inside Granada's Cathedral

We had sufficient time to explore Granada’s Cathedral, a vast and soaring interior that would have scared peasants witless had they been allowed in.  We were treated to a small museum with vestments and crowns perhaps once worn by Isabel & Fernando.  (Were these the ones she hocked to finance Columbus’s voyage to the New World perhaps?)  Certainly any one of the stunning old master paintings would have financed the Motleys world cruising (QE 2 for sure!) for a long time to come.

Exploring Albayzin

Then it was off to explore narrow Carrera del Darro which wound its way through the old Muslim district, Albayzin.  We had impressive views of the Alhambra sitting loftily above us as we meandered along.   At last the narrow street opened out to a wide, sunny terrace where the Crew sat sipping coffee beside a small river, taking in the ambience and preparing for our allotted hour, for the tour, at last, of the famous Alhambra. 

Uno Americano & three café con leichte, por favor....

The Alhambra is worthy of a separate post (with lots & lots of photos), so read on….

Stop The Boat

Almerimar, Spain

Almerimar is famous amongst yachties as a cruising wintering ground – a real Port Velcro.  It is a large marina with surrounding resort complexes, hotels and apartments.  It offers sun, warmth, cheap pub food, tapas on tap (well almost), plenty of wine, a convenient supermarket and a well-cared for golf course or two.  The Motley’s stopped by to check it over as a possible destination for a future haul out. 

Gargantuan greenhouses under the stately (& natural) Sierra Nevada 

We were greeted on arrival by the marineros, speaking Spanish at us with gusto.  Fortunately the Sparkles Team chose that moment to hail us from the dock so we all yabbered on in our own languages (yes, kiwi is a language too!) until a sharp directive from El Capitano (the cruel) reminded us of our docking obligations and we got on with the job at hand.

A few Sparkles with our tapas in Almerimar

We used Almerimar to take a little moment of respite on our long journey – the Spanish coast seems endless when moving in day trips – and to try our luck at getting a ticket to Granada’s Alhambra.  In both we were successful.  Even better, a nasty Westerly blew through (a Vendevales) so for a few days we hunkered down and soon had WJ3 covered in flapping washing.  Waste not time (nor water) on board, for when in port shampooing hair and washing clothes must be done. 

 

From:  Fuengirola, Spain Lat/Long:  36:32.45N 4:37.02W Date/Time: 15/06/13: 1010
To:  Almerimar, Spain Lat/Long: 36:41.87N 2:47.53W Date/Time: 16/06/13: 1730
Time Taken: 92nm (15.5hrs) Distance (this year): 359.5nm (58hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 11184.5nm   Weather: E5-10kts; no swell; fog near Herradura
Fastest Speed: Motor & a little sailing doing 6.5kts at best  The water is clear to 30+ feet!

Rendezvous with Picasso

Malaga, Spain

Getting to Granada from our base in Fuengirola proved a little challenging given our timeframe, so we opted for a trip to Malaga instead.  The city is built around a port probably founded during Phoenician times, has notable Roman lineage, and prospered under Islamic rule.  Our regional bus (a 2 hour trip) brought us into the city centre where we were able to hop off, then hop right on to a big red bus.  Very convenient and no decisions required.  Not before coffee of course, and the KIPS discovered coffee Malaga style.

Orientation by bus is fantastic – you can decide what’s worth seeing, schedule a day of sightseeing without walking, sit up high & open-topped to get some good photos and tap into other offers.  The Merry Crew decided to take up an included walking (cultural) tour of the city.  Following our colourful Christina through narrow medieval streets, we stopped briefly to admire the soaring Cathedral, a healthy mix of Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque styles that only the Spanish could put together so well.  Later we learned of Malaga’s Roman interlude, admired strong red walls of the Alcazaba (1057), and wondered why a statue of Hans Christian Anderson was in the centre of town. (We never did find out.)

Afterwards, we headed back to the Alcazaba, the palace fortress of Malaga’s Muslim governors to walk double defensive walls, gingerly step up cobbled ramps and then gaze over the busy harbour from high watch towers.  Enough remains to see that internal rooms were once highly decorated and colourful.  Fountains, rills and pleasant, flowered gardens make the Alcazaba most pleasant to roam. 

And I say this nicely - look at the Roamin Ruins...

Enough with the old, in with the new!  GS made a b-line for the Museo Picasso Malaga.  Picasso was born in Malaga and is said to have retained a strong affection for the area.  The museum, once the Palacio de Buenavista (same name as the pub on the corner in Mossman), has been beautifully restored, however all eyes were on Picasso’s works.   We were spoilt with a wide selection of his paintings, drawings, ceramics, prints and sculptures - enough to understand the energy and creativity that this man was capable of maintaining through his long life.  Such a treat!

View over Malagar

After such a full day exploring, a little sustenance was necessary before undertaking the trip back to WJ3.  We sat under umbrellas in a little square off the main shopping plaza watching the (Spanish) world go by as we sipped beers and nibbled olives.  Ahhh, wouldn’t be dead for quids…

Right Mrs KIP, time to seriously shop!

Bandoleros des Spectacularos

Ronda, Spain

Ronda & surrounds

Another of the charming Pueblos Blancos, tiny Ronda sits perched on cliffs 500 ft above El Tajo Gorge.  La Ciudad’s (as it was known then) position was of strategic significance in the 1400’s as Christians fought back the Moors to recapture Spain.  Ronda had been on the front line and its occupation critical; it finally fell in 1485. 

No explanation required

This romantic village set high above surrounding plains has since attracted its fair share of shady or notable visitors, including Dumas, Orson Wells and Hemmingway.  Sitting under ancient trees at an outdoor café by the Plaza Duquesa de Parcent we too fell for its charms.  Would an ancient cobbled street be named after us one day?  Probably not….

Meanwhile GS had run off with the waiter....

We decided to take a tour with Alfredo (from the Tourist Office); a comprehensive couple of hours walking in the old city.  We admired a stunning Cathedral built over the site of the original mosque; explored the Palacio de Mondragon (1314), built for Ronda’s ruler  and Islamic in style before taking a closer inspection of Ronda's famous bullring, one of the oldest in Spain (1785).

It was here in Ronda, that the Romero family of Matadors established the technique of modern bull fighting (on foot).  To this day, spectacular village celebrates this heritage as Matadors fight in 19^th c costumes with all the associated pageantry.  Sketches from those early days by one of Spain’s celebrated masters, Goya, hang in the museum giving insight into this ritualistic event. 

Inside the famous Ronda Bullring

Last year's poster

Pueblos Blancos

Mijas, Spain

Having survived the journey back to WJ3, we set sail in a fine breeze and headed back towards the Spanish Costa del Sol.  We hoped for a little more warmth in the sun as we headed east and found it in Fuengirola (Fwen grrr oh la).  This friendly marina and beach-side tourist resort (full of poms) would be our visit base for bus trips off into the hills to visit a couple of famous "white villages", mostly of Islamic origin, dating back as far as 711.

Narrow & very white streets of Mijas

First, and easiest to reach, was Mijas, a neat, tiny oasis that somehow managed to cling to a steep and rocky hillside.  We were easily able to negotiate our way around narrow, white streets, succeeded in escaping most of the numerous craft sellers unscathed, before finishing up at the old church, locate just beyond the Bullring.  I imagine one needs to pray rather seriously before stepping in front of a prancing, angry bull.

Belltower.  (Makes one think of Don Quixote, written in 1605...wow!)

The bullring wasn’t open but a tiny, badly lit museum was, so we paid our dues and ventured in.  Once through the curtain, our gaze was met by vacant glassy eyes of famous conquests who had been preserved for their show of valour in the ring. (Bulls not matadors that is!)  By comparison, costumes worn by handsome matadors were tiny (only in size) but beautifully decorated.  Bull fighting must be quite the spectacle and an art form in one.  We will never see a performance though. 

The first fight is to get through the souvenir sellers...

I'm sure I've seen that man before...

From:  Restingar Smir, Morocco  Lat/Long:  35:45.25N 5:20.518W Date/Time: 11/06/13: 0730

To: Fuengirola, Spain Lat/Long: 36:32.45N 4:37.02W Date/Time: 11/06/13: 1645
Time Taken: 60nm (9.5hrs) Distance (this year): 267.5nm (42.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 11092.5nm   Weather: SW10-15kts; 0.5m swell; warming up
Fastest Speed: Motor & sail doing 7.4kts at best 

New Blue Taxi

Chefchaouen, Morocco

Here we are again!  Restingar Smir...

First stop on our tour was Restingar Smir, Morocco.  We wasted no time booking a taxi up to Chefchaouen though.  Moustafa arrived in his newish blue taxi (well, a slightly newer model than last year’s ancient Mercedes) to carry us over the Riff mountains to our hotel, this time inside the Medina and very close to the central Plaza Uta el-Hammam.  We set off to explore the old city; it was Sunday and many visitors were milling about to celebrate (something – we never did find out what).  There were merchants and market stalls galore, concerts by school children and plenty of local people in traditional dress to add colour to the mountain village’s Berber blue and white colour scheme. 

We'll have one of those, one of those, oh and one of those...

So, after a hard afternoon of souvenir shopping we wandered back to our hotel (Dar Mounir) for a quiet glass of “medicine’ up on the terrace and to admire the view in the evening cool.  We were quite close to the restored Kasbah and a large 15^th c mosque with an unusual octagonal tower so as the muezzin’s call rang around the valley, we tried to imagine how it must have been when it was the stronghold of Berber Moulay Ali ben Rachid. Christians were forbidden entry back then. Infidel travellers found inside the medina were killed; that is until the Spanish occupied the village in the 1920’s. 

The medicine is clearly working

Dinner was local fare and we found ourselves scaling steep stairs up into the colourful outdoor terrace of Aladdin’s Lamp.  Whilst feasting on tagines of beef & prunes, chicken & preserved lemon and highly fragrant couscous (not to mention delectable crème caramels), we were able to watch the evening goings on in the town square below. 

After such a long day, the village was not quite ready for “early starters” the next morning, even at 11am. Souvenir shopping would have to wait!  Meanwhile we strolled to the falls outside the city walls (Bab el Ansar) to watch women hard at work washing their winter blankets at the communal laundrette (actually, the stream).  GS and Mrs KIP ditched the lads and made a run for the markets (when they eventually opened) to make sure the taxi back would be stuffed to the gunnels. 

Plaza Uta el-Hammam

Mohammed, who had promised us a “clean taxi with airconditioning” for our return trip, handed us over to the driver of what could have been Mustafa’s very ancient Mercedes from last year.  It was old, it rattled and the brakes burned as we barrelled back down the mountain road towards Smir.  We would make it, inshallah. 

Inside the Medina

From:  La Linea, Spain Lat/Long:  36:09.53N  05:21.35W   Date/Time: 08/06/13: 1200

To: Restingar Smir, Morocco  Lat/Long: 35:45.25N 5:20.518W Date/Time: 08/06/13: 1730
Time Taken: 26nm (4.5hrs) Distance (this year): 207.5nm (33hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 11032.5nm   Weather: W15-20kts; 0.5m swell; cool
Fastest Speed: Sped along under sail (all of the way!!) doing 8.4kts at times

It's Magic

Gibraltar 

Our guests arrived and quickly settled in on board.  That meant snacking on a few olives, drinking quaffable wines (I’m no longer allowed to say cheap!  Ed.) and comparing refreshing local beers at the nearby Marina Café.  Life was not without its arduous duties however so the KIPS took off for a serious day of sightseeing in Gibraltar and the Motleys got on with departure prep. 

Some travel in style

Aside from the usual chores, WJ3’s dodger needed to be repaired.  A sharp crack from an errant staysail sheet had smashed one of the ageing acrylic window panels during the trip down and WJ3 had sailed into Gibraltar Bay looking battle scared, as if she was wearing an eye-patch.  Nelson would have approved. 

A Fitness Class.  At the boat show.  Really?  

Life at the Alcaidesa Marina was comfortable, if somewhat uneventful - except of course for the boat show.  Although interesting it was certainly not up to Annapolis standards.  To be fair, we left the day Nelson’s schooner “Pickle” was due to pull in, which could have made the difference…possibly.  We wondered too if the schooner’s name was a little mischief meant to amuse their neighbours in Gibraltar as we hadn’t spotted any ships of interest.  Unless you count Disney’s huge white cruise liner “Magic”.  Rather more stylishly, it departed with a few notes from “when you wish upon a star” ringing over Gib's harbour.  Sure beats the standard morose blast! 

The KIPS will have to report back on their day of sightseeing.  However, we understand it was rather an adventurous affair with one being walked off her feet (and mostly in the wrong direction) and the other bumped on the border whilst helping little old ladies in distress.  Or was it the witch’s hat they had run over that was in need of rescuing?  Ooops!  We forgot to tell them about Spanish drivers….

Frontier Living

Lagos, Portugal to Gibraltar

We launched in Lagos in a stiff breeze, the Cap’n gunning his new bow thruster for effect, and hot footed it to the anchorage in Portimao Harbour.  We spent the evening watching vast, white cruise ships come and go and over, perhaps one too many celebratory wines, decided that we would gun it too…up the middle, bags of smoke and all that…direct to Gibraltar.  A huge first sail of 175nm!  Blame the weather.  An easterly was forecast to set in any day and the last thing any sailor needs is to be making for the Gibraltar Straits in a headwind.  So, forget the tapas in Cadiz, forget a little sherry tasting or two, and really forget the slow cruise eastwards! 

Is this just a mirage?

So here we are 25 hours later, a little shaken, not stirred, but none the less happy to be on WJ3.  Both marinas in Gibraltar were full so we’ve had to take up a Schengen clock-ticking space at the huge Alcaidesa Marina in the frontier town of La Linea in Spain.  Things could be worse.  My wine glass seems bottomless, the olives delicious and the tapas helpful under the circumstances. 

Get those docklines on lad, I need to use the bathrooms...

The levanter (east wind) has set in and in the evening, a late, low cloud hangs (very decoratively) over Gibraltar.  With the promise of a boat show in the marina in a few days and warmer weather on the way, we might never leave.

 

From: Portimao, Portugal   Lat/Long: 37:06.68N  08:31.32W   Date/Time: 29/05/13: 0820
To: La Linea, Spain Lat/Long: 36:09.53N  05:21.35W   Date/Time: 30/05/13: 1100
Time Taken: 181.5nm (28.5hrs) Distance (this year): 181.5nm (28.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 11006.5nm  Weather: NW15-20kts; 1-1.5m swell; really cold & windy
Fastest Speed: Surfed at times doing 7.9kts on a following wind (8.2kts at Tarifa!)