Christmas Present

Graphics courtesy of  Graphics Fairy

Yes, it’s that time of the year again.  Amazing how quickly it sneaks up on you!  Rather than sending out newsletters this year, our adventures have been mostly covered over our 7 months of Windjammer3 travels anyway.  Of course, you're reading the blog now, so there's no need for a Link to it.  It's surely guaranteed to get you snoozing!

We trust Santa brings joy to you and your family this festive season, where-ever you are; under a blanket of snow or basking in tropical sunshine.  Have a wonderful and peaceful Christmas and New Years, and allow at least some time to kick back and relax.  After all, you will need to be match fit for a game of cricket (or tennis) and have that barbie fired up, ready for Australia Day.  Lamb chops and lamingtons essential.

WJ3 & The Motley Crew 

End of Season 14

A red sky at night. A sailor's delight (Scarlet Ibis, Caroni Swamp)

After a rest onboard recovering under the aircon, it was time to set about final chores.  Our going home date was nearly upon us, and we all were looking forward to getting back to Aus.  It has been a long 7 months and a very long way from our February start in Deltaville.  Perhaps our biggest issues were lack of internet and mobile phone connectivity.  Aside from Miss WJ3 expecting regular attention from our trusty Cap'n. 

We really like Trinidad. It has character, is self-reliant and industrious. Undoubtedly there are safety and security issues (check SmartTraveller) but on the whole, people are friendly and obliging.  We found YSATT and Trinidad-Cruisers websites very helpful.   Jesse James, Members Only Maxi Taxis, offers regular shopping runs as well as organised tours of the island from our boatyard.  He is also an Ocean Cruising Club (award winning) Host and a designated Agent, offering assistance with clearance preparation.  We should have used his services on entry.  Trinidad now requires Visa entry for Australian citizens.  On presenting to Immigration, we were admonished for not having arranged one beforehand, then thankfully, a costly, limited stay visa arranged on-the-spot.  We were warned not to overstay.  On departure, GS was the subject of two security checks in the hour before boarding.  She blames her backpack, always stuffed too full of computer & boat electronics.

Now that we are home, a quick fact check on SmartTraveller reveals that T&T does not have an office in Australia.  You are thoughtfully advised to travel to the nearest office - in China!  However, not all is lost.  We are officially advised: “You don't need a visa if your visit is for tourism for less than 90 days. However, you'll need to pay a visa waiver fee to Immigration Services when you arrive.”  Let’s see how that goes!  I suspect déjà vu.  So, without further ado, it's time to present our end of season tally:

End of Season 13: Our figures for 2023 came in as follows:

From: Deltaville, Virginia USA Lat/Long: 37:33.116N 76:19.817W Date/Time: 16/02/23: 0930

To: Chaguaramas, Trinidad Lat/Long: 10:40.993N 61:38.029W  Date/Time: 23/08/23: 0915

Time Taken: (this year): 512.5 hrs  Distance: (this year): 3171nm

Distance Total: (since 2008): 28,282nm  

Weather: From skating on ice along the ICW to dodging seasonal depressions in the Caribbean, we had it all again this year.  Really had to keep our eyes on the weather, although predictions often came as forecast.  We used our new Iridium Go. Particularly helpful as we didn’t always have internet or even a phone.  Just in case you think we’ve been moaning about the weather just a wee bit too much, I shall leave you with Noonsite observations for Caribbean weather (3 Mar 2023): “unsettled weather in the Caribbean; unusual, relentless winds and squalls making it challenging to move”. Yep. That about covers it!

Fastest Speed:  We moved with some haste despite challenging weather.  It was not the perfect Caribbean weather for guests, often limiting where we could go & what we could do.  But who could have predicted that – on a boat?  Needless to say, lots of boat gear gasped a last breath under the stress, so too much time was spent fixing stuff.  And guaranteed, always in challenging places! 

Farewell Dinner & Mr Lozza's Birthday Party

Brushing Up on (Boating) History

Our whirlwind tour of the island & La Brea Pitch Lake.

Mr Lozza was appointed WJ3 Tour Rep.  After Caroni Swamp, we had hopes of organising a tour to another twitchers’ favourite, the Asa Wright Nature Centre, home to over 250 bird species.  It was not to be, with day tours running at costs into the hundreds, well beyond our budget.  Instead, we bravely hired a car for a couple of days.  Perhaps it was really the lady who owned the car that was brave!

This Vidiani map is busy enough without highlighting our route; towns are well marked.

For our first day, with the Cap’n at the wheel, Canadian Kevin riding shotgun, and Mr Lozza, doing the nav, taking us on a circuitous, clock-wise route, off we set to see the vistas of Trinidad.  Advice to anyone planning this road trip, road conditions (traffic & maintenance – well, lack of it) meant we took longer than expected and thus had fewer stops.  It was also low (tourist) season, so not much was open; we should have packed a picnic lunch!  Mind you, there were not many places to take a break along the route either.

Starting early from Chaguaramas in the north west, we hit the main Churchill Roosevelt Highway taking us through Port of Spain and out to follow the foothills of the dark & moody, rain forest clad Northern Range.  The Mount St. Benedict Monastery was clearly visible, and although tempting to drive up to it to see the views (and I understand they also do a fantastic afternoon tea), it was working up to be another hot day.  So, bless the aircon instead and we carried on until the highway ran out, diverted via Valencia, continued through Sangre Grande, then met the east coast at Manzanilla.  Here we stopped at the Nariva River estuary to take some photos of a long stretch of windswept (bless those trade winds too!) coastline. 

Nariva River estuary

From Manzanilla, we followed Cocos Bay down to Nariva Swamp National Park.  It is quite clear that the swamp is fighting back given the many collapsed houses and one very buckled road rather worse for wear.  A ranger/tour guide at Nariva Swamp offered to take us for a boat tour; unfortunately, we had to decline; time was against us.  After following the coast road to Mayaro, we turned west and inland to Rio Claro.  Here at last we found a computer shop with the parts our Cap’n & Mr L. needed to repair a magic box that sits under the chart table.  (Want to know more? Check out the H460 site – just don’t hurry.  It’s snail-mail paced posting!).  From Rio Claro, a winding road took us past picturesque small farms, villages and wild & fruitful gardens, all scattered with colourful temples and mosques.  At Princes Town, we eventually reconnected with a network of converging new and old highways on the west coast, confidant we could make it back to Chaguaramas before dark (i.e., dinner time).  Time then to zoom off to La Brea with hopes of catching a tour of the Pitch Lake.

Walking across the Pitch Lake led by our Guide, Francis

When you arrive at the Lake, you can’t help but wonder what on earth made you want to see this rather flat expanse, looking for all the world like discarded bitumen covered in puddles.  (First priority though, ignore the views and take a quick stop at the Museum bathrooms, the first available during our day!)  We were then greeted warmly by friendly staff and after signing on, followed our guide, Francis, off to the lake.  As we progressed over the lake’s surface, the ground moved & squeaked beneath us.  We realised this was no place to be on your own…  

Pitch, bubbling just under the top crust

Our guide was entertaining and very informed, so an hour quickly slipped by.  Importantly, the 100 acre lake is the largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world, carefully mined to ensure its depths (250ft) are monitored and maintained.  Sir Walter Raleigh, advised of the lake’s existence by native Amerindians during his 1595 expedition, immediately recognised its value for sea-going vessels, successfully using the pitch to caulk his own timber ship.  Thankfully, Miss WJ3 is fiberglass and much easier to maintain.  Try Wiki if you are not able to visit the Pitch Lake in person and want to know more.  Just don’t mention “bitumen” because that is something different.  Don't say you were not warned, ok!  

Don't stand still for too long! 

Therapeutic waters too!

Hoping to avoid peak hour traffic, a group decision (beer before culsha group?) was made not to try and find the 85 ft tall statue of Hindu god Lord Hanuman and The Temple of Sea in Carapichaima.  Maybe next time then?  So, following the Southern Main Road, we managed a quick and tidy return back to Chaguaramas, completing our circumnavigation.  Just in time for Happy Hour. 

A Red for Everyone

Deep in the Caroni Swamp mangroves

and a roosting island for gathering birds

Jesse James organises island outings and we were lucky to snag one going to the Caroni Swamp for a spot of bird watching.  We arrived after a late afternoon start at Nanan's Bird Sanctuary Tours, through a minefield of feral cats (generating much discussion!).  Here, punts were waiting to thread us into the swamp via a series of channels to witness a daily, yet extraordinary spectacle of an evening roosting of Scarlet Ibis, Trinidad & Tobago’s national bird.  This mangrove swamp itself is huge, an important wetland covering some 12,000 acres, just south of Port of Spain. 

We couldn't disturb the birds, so getting close was an issue.
 Having a big enough camera lens to get them in focus was also another!

The wetlands unique character was recognised early, in the 1930’s, by Winston Nanan, who petitioned to have it declared a bird sanctuary.  Experts have now documented over 100 bird species according to our knowledgeable guide, along with an amazing array of bugs, fish, snakes, butterflies, micro-bats, crabs, fish & rather artful vegetation.  Of course, it was all a backdrop for, initially, an excited gathering of flamingos, no less.  They seemed so “Alice”, particularly when some flew off, looking for all the world, mid-air, like escaping (Red Queen’s) croquet bats.  Then, and slowly, the main attraction began to arrive and settle.  Not without some prima-donna squabbling, but it is rather a long way from where they spend their days in Venezuela (11 miles at least - as the crow flies).  Their magnificent red feathering comes courtesy of a diet of crabs living in the swamp.  Trees, with branches drooping with more & more arrivals, seem to burst into flame.  Strangely, as dusk arrives, that bright red vanishes into mangrove greenery and a calm stillness descends.  It’s time to head back to Nanan’s and then home.

Scarlet Ibis

I can’t finish without adding a culinary note…  Whilst we floated along the channels, Jesse expertly spotted (along with our Guides) wildlife for us to photograph or just watch.  And while we kept our eyes open for Ibis and other roosting birds, he whipped up a local treat – Pineapple Chow.  This spicy (not sweet) fruit concoction is a local favourite and worth adding to your list of BBQ staples!  Here is a copy of his Chow recipe on the net.  And to finish off an excellent day, we stopped at a road-side stall for delicious home-made ice-cream.  Flavours were all so very Caribbean but we went for the usual suspects - Rum Raisin, & Coconut. 

Have you been good today? 
Jesse (in blue), helping dish up local treats...there was quite a queue

Life in a Heat Dome

You will be pleased to know that GS’s computer is fixed at last (only a new battery & a new hard drive – insert sad face emoji!) and ready to roll on finalising our 2023 adventures.  So, life jackets on, harnesses clipped; here we go!

Auditioning for a part in a Monty Python sketch

Doing the Daily Grind...

You may well laugh!  Nature had found us out and centred a rather large heat bubble over our Chaguaramas location.  Yes, temperatures varying between 34-39C lasted for the whole time we resided “up on spindly legs”.  And no rain.  However, we managed to cope with the aid of a small Walmart air conditioner purchased by our trusty Cap’n back in 2022. 

From inside HQ WJ3, the planning operation began.  Our Cap’n sought out quotes to refurbish parts of the interior, revitalise various non-working boat bits and arrange bit of practical maintenance.  Otherwise, he maintained happy hour supplies, topped up WJ3’s fuel tanks and fetched our (almost) daily local-food dinners.  The stretch of fence at the front of the yard is known as “The Food Court” and is open at about 4.30am by breakfast/snack ladies until the lunch ladies arrive and hold the fort until 2.00pm or the food runs out.  Menus change daily and competition for lunch with workers is stiff.  The Cap’n (and his favourite fridge mouse) charmed the ladies, so we left him to visit daily and make his selections.  They always gave generous serves and it never tasted anything less than wonderful!

Meanwhile, GS took care of listening to the daily (Channel 68) radio “sked”, organised attendance at yard group gatherings and undertook the usual domestic activities, including giving WJ3 her end-of-season spruce up.  

Haven't you finished the outboard by now?

Mr Lozza, as a welcome third hand, was given many & various chores (think de-rusting & painting the anchor and all 330 feet of chain!) allowing him to decide for sure that he never wants to own a boat!  In all, our gal looked a treat when we left!

To Buy a Fat Hen

One of the joys of travelling is visiting fresh food markets and Trinidad’s Central Market is no exception.  What we really love about it is that you are treated, not as visitors, but rather as shopping locals.  The experience took us back to days in Malaysia, India and Nepal.  Everything really is just so fresh, sold off the back of a farmer’s truck or fisherman’s boat (figuratively speaking!)  We travelled in each week on a Saturday morning (7am early start) on an organised Jesse James run (1 hour at the market then 30 mins at a nearby supermarket to finish off – the beer, bread & cereal run.)  Anything we missed out on could be picked up at the excellent mini-mart at Power Boats.  Very handy indeed! 

Perhaps just a few baby crabs?

Boys Big Day Out: Golf

Deciding to be adventurous, the lads made an early start one day for Chaguaramas Golf Course to take in a round of 9 holes before the heat set in.  This course, the only one in Trinidad, is set back into forested hills behind our boatyard at the base of Edith Falls, a hiking trail that we may (or may not) take one day.  Aside from wildlife galore, noisy birds (parrots), this reserve is home to Red Howler Monkeys.  Both agreed it was a spectacular setting for a golf course.  And you all know who won…

Still Rockin’ on the Hard

Welcome to Trinidad!

Approaching the Dragon's Mouth (named by Colombus, 1498)

In sight of the coast, we threaded our way across visible ribbons of strong current. (If you should fall in, next stop Panama!..)  Heading into the Bocas del Dragón, we then braced ourselves for a wild ride in waters swirling through these legendary jaws.  To add to this eerie experience, steep Monos Island, flanking the mainland and named for howler monkeys inhabiting the area, gave us a landscape view straight out of the Jurassic period.  Our next Herculean Labour was facing an onslaught of day-trippers in pirogues (go-fast taxi boats) making an early assault on nearby Scotland Bay.  We made it out in the nick of time! 

We saw masses of Black Parrots but no Howler Monkeys
in those forested hills opposite the boatyard.

Chaguaramas, since 2008, has become more focused on commercial port operations and it appeared that the anchorage area has shrunk.  This uncomfortable area, exposed to strong currents and plenty of wash from pirogues at the busy Power Boats taxi rank, drove the Cap’n to request an early lift.  Without much ado, WJ3 was hauled, bottom cleaned and re-located to a choice spot just near the front fence, and more importantly, the Doubles lady.  She and her son offer an easy brekkie - starting about 4.30am each day!  GS’s first concern however, was for our resident Trigger fish.  We hoped this little guy, who had adopted WJ3 as its mother ship, had escaped in time.  I know, I know!  Usually, we have a boatyard spider join us for the season but Trigger took up early residence, and made an appearance at every stop.   

Power’s extensive boatyard is fairly quiet, staff as friendly as ever and services & facilities handy, so we set about mixing up our chores list with a few days of fun.  A helpful cruisers’ net operates each morning on VHF68 at 8am and each Thursday at 6pm, live-aboards meet for a BBQ dinner at the Roti Hut.  Of course, being out of the water meant we could only use our WAECO fridge (a small 12v car fridge) and as we had arrived in a “heat bubble” with temps up to 36C, ice (and very cold beer) became the essential ingredient to be housed there-in.  GS hung up the galley implements and sent the Cap’n, on most days, to select meals from the ladies at the front gate.  Daily under market tents, they set up a generous serving of local food for workers.  We ate very well indeed!  

Enjoying a night out on the town (the food was excellent)
The Wheel House Pub, Chaguaramas

& then celebrating with the Birthday Boy

When in need of supplements, like beer and chocolate (mmm!), we took Jesse James’ regular Saturday Market run into the Central Market, in Port of Spain.  It is a friendly local farmers market bustling with stalls selling the freshest of everything imaginable.  The Chicken Lady comes highly recommended!  (Enjoy this fun, local foodie vlog!) The market is a joy to wander, get chatty with vendors and very tempting to buy way too much.  We settle for a few basics, including some huge avocados, then retreat to the food hall for a breakfast selection of local specialities.  After the fresh food market, we stop briefly at a nearby supermarket to pick up any other essentials (beer, wine, cheese slices), then are delivered with our goodies, back to our boats by 10am.  

In all, much better than rocking about on the anchorage, wouldn’t you say?

Central Market, Port of Spain, Trinidad - vegetable & fruit stalls

Very Spicy Indeed

Spectacular Costumes: 
All photos taken during Pretty Mas & The Parade of Bands

Spice Island Carnival was the order of the day, so we put on our glad rags and prepared ourselves mentally for this exuberant event.  Toes in the water, so as to speak, with our choice to attend the tamer option, Pretty Mas & Parade of the Bands. Well, we could only hope!   Our driver briefed us before releasing us into the chaos.  He tipped us to watch our belongings carefully, where to find the best viewpoints and tastiest local food.  He also gave us an event overview/history from a local perspective.  Mas, he said was not church mass but a masquerade and dated back to the times of slavery.  So armed with beginners luck,  it was a charge for the Tropicana Restaurant where at 4pm, some of yesterday's revellers were still recovering and trying to regroup for this next round! From Tropicana's elevated vantage point, judges preside over the parade to decide on winners, so we hoped for a good view and to be close to but not in, the action.  

Luckily, we spotted a wall, sheltered by a shady tree, to sit on, then waited – even island time slows down for Mas.  Eventually, stragglers from the previous day’s events filled the streets and before too long, a Chinese Dragon heralded the start of this hedonistic parade.  Lots of music, feathers, sequins, flesh and alcohol. 

Carnival is not a brief affair; it lingers, happily over many, many months.  Lots of fetes (fay-tays) or partying, drinking locally made beer & rum, making (LOUD) music, liming (more partying) and having fun.  Some of the events we had already missed were the Panorama (steel pan bands performing competitively), Dimanche Gras (Soca & Calypso competitions) and Canboulay (local celebrations).  We visitors had the option to attend one or all of Spicemas’s main events.  One was enough for us.  The main Spicemas program included:

J’ouvert Morning. Day 1.  Starting around 3am, this morning parade offers lashings of oil, paint, chocolate, molasses, alcohol and sequins whilst dancing to some head-splitting Caribbean music.  Huge boom boxes on the back of semi-trailers belt out the local SoCa vibe.  Revellers in sparse but elaborate costumes, make dance moves your mother would not approve.  Locals call this event Jab Jab.  Jab Mas has its roots in pagan traditions and is about playing the devil and mocking fancy costume parties (Mardi Gras) attended by elites back in the days of slavery.  Today, the parade is a contest of bands and their exotically dressed (to a theme) followers.  The most popular in the parade are the theatrical jab jabs who coat themselves in motor oil (don’t forget to coat yourself in Vaseline first!), paint their tongue red, wear a horned helmet and perhaps, for an added touch of bizarre, decorate with a bleeding animal tongue or whole octopus.

Night Mas.  Day 1.  A Street Party follows J’ouvert (obviously to assist with recovery) with the same loud SoCa (Soul Calypso) music and a show of flashing lights.  Apparently, it gets going about 9pm.  Still lots more oil, coloured powder, alcohol and partying. 

Pretty Mas & Parade of the Bands.  Day 2.  Starting at 4pm in the cooler evening, Pretty Mas features bands and exotic costumes, wild colours, and even wilder dance moves.  The parade loops along the main road that follows the bend of the Carenage.  We had hoped to see a showing of steel drums too!  Blame the overcast weather?  So, sadly missed out.  

Rain threatened but didn’t eventuate.  Our ear drums will never be the same.  Also dance move called “twerking” might cause many grandmothers to faint.  It’s a wonder those scant costumes stayed in place.  It was a warm evening; drink was flowing and music pumping.  Pure bacchanalian.  

The next day, and as a form of "recuperative therapy", our Cap’n & Mr Lozza put their heads together to solve the riddle of WJ3’s diminishing power supply and a not-so-happy alternator.  Unable, between the three of us, to conjure any Gordian knot solutions, a miserable Cap’n decided that Trinidad was the place to be for repairs and maintenance.  We were up at the crack of dawn – it’s a long 80 nm trip (11 hours at the helm) – only to discover that the alternator was MIA.  Whoops…  Well, perhaps we'll leave tomorrow then?  We're in need of a spot of repair work!  

So, we fixed it (well, our amazing mechanic Mr Lozza did), and then, we prepped for yet another early start next morning.  And so, leave Grenada we did!  Just for a change, the weather gods took pity on us, and the Motley Crew left for destination Chaguaramas.  In excellent sailing conditions! 

Boom, Crash & Tropical Spice

St George's with Fort George in the distance
(That is not our maxi taxi - way too modern!)

Of all the Caribbean islands, Grenada seemed to be THE magnet for cruisers of every persuasion.  Bays and coves were crammed with boats, some unoccupied and some storm or hurricane tragedies.  Here too, it was apparent that the boat-de-jour is indeed a catamaran.  And a very large one at that.  Fair enough!  We’ve met many who live-aboard full time this year.  Cruisers are not so much old retired codgers like the Cap’n & GS anymore, but young couples and families.  Whatever the reason for taking up an appealing life under sail, there sure is plenty of floating homes with all the mod cons.  So, where to anchor amid the mayhem?  We tried Prickly Bay (lance-a-peen) on the south coast but moved on to Clarke Courts Bay (or Woburn Bay) where we snagged a nicely protected anchorage off Saba Cove.  From there, we were sheltered, away from popular spots and easily able to explore options for our day-to-day needs.  But first the basics – very cold beer and food!  Marina restaurant.  Tick – done… 

We anchored tucked well into comfortable Saba Cove. (Hog Island, right side on map).  Most prefer the better protected anchorage & its beach bar (Hog Island, left side on map).  Hog Island is connected to the mainland by a small bridge and you can see the marina & boatyard (top left).  Not to mention the vast numbers of sailboats at anchor.

This photo is taken from the hills to the north of the Island so the views are reversed! Either way, it was far busier than we saw it in 2008.

The Shade-Man, out of a nearby marina, ran a maxi taxi service to town twice a week allowing us to pick up yet more boat bits & groceries, enough to fill very empty food lockers.  One run to Grand Anse, full of resorts, long sweeping sandy beaches & the flattest part of the island, took us to a vast hardware (that sold Moet… Woohoo! Come on Bunnings, get with the program!!).  Next stops were a chandlery, a nice coffee shop and an impressive IGA.  The second run took us into St George’s to explore the fresh food markets.  We drove through a maze of narrow, steep streets, most lined with old colonial buildings, then zoomed through the historic Sendel Tunnel at the foot of Fort George, to arrive at the bustling CBD taxi stand and lively market areas.  Freshly caught fish (by someone else) for dinner then boys?  You bet!  Kingfish and salmon no less.  

St George’s is a picturesque harbour made up of two inner bays.  The Carenage is the business side, and a flat, calm Lagoon, dubbed the “Frying Pan”, the yachties side.  We anchored in the Pan in 2008, using the nearby Yacht Club as a base.  Well, times have changed; no anchoring now!  It’s filled to the brim with a large marina, developed with an eye to attract all those superyachts and their cashed-up owners and crews.  Even on the eve of Carnival, there was none to be seen.  Docks were lined with your average cruiser, not to mention all those fat cats. Do you think we should upgrade, mused the Cap’n whilst juggling loads of spare parts, brass fittings, paint tins and other essentials in hand.  GS did not answer, only glared.

Back in Woburn, we found Taffy’s Restaurant; sadly, not on a day when they serve a wholesome traditional Sunday Roast.  At least they were open on a public holiday when our cupboard was bare.  We had a relaxing lunch and a few hours heads down to use their wi-fi.  We certainly felt starved of any connection to the wider world.  At that happy moment, GS’s computer chose to die, in a most spectacular way.  Back on board, Mr Lozza threw it into the (empty) sink, hoping the battery was not about to burst into flame.  (It didn’t!)

Grenada appears be a photo desert for now.  Hopefully more to follow...

Slipping through the Southern Grenadines

Up until now we thought that sailboat numbers were down a bit; it is hurricane season after all.  Cruisers were certainly squeezing into Bequia’s small harbour, but turnover was fairly quick.  Most were moving on to their favourite hurricane haunts to wait out nasty weather.  Charterers though, were out in force for some late season bargains.  At one point, we were surrounded by five 60’ catamarans.  Now that’s some chunk of boat-ware – shades of the BVI.  We wondered what it would be like in peak season.  We were to find out later in Grenada.

Heading off from Mayreau for the Regatta 

Again, it was time for us to move on.  We bid farewell to Didi and promised to be back next year for another relaxing stay on this welcoming island.  We had also heard of a large Regatta to be held in Carriacou, Aug 4-7th and we hoped to see the spectacle.  Many of the islands, including Bequia, were sending small workboats and young crews to participate in what is described as the oldest Regatta event in the West Indies.

Rainbow over the Caribbean Sea

Bypassing exotic Mustique, once secluded home to the celebrated Royal, Princess Margaret, (along with other Celebs), we made for Mayreau, gateway to Tobago Cays Marine Park.  Salt Whistle Bay is a photographers dream and we hoped to squeeze in.  It is full of moorings now and clearly preference is given to charterers and their cats.  More importantly though, we could see a storm out at sea heading our way and knew this bay would be too exposed.  It was already starting to rock.  The decision to move further south to Saline Bay and anchor (being the last of the not-so-big spenders) made this a rather attractive option.  Saline proved to be quiet with a nice beach and offered some reasonable snorkelling - except when the local ferries rolled by.

When the weather improved, we tried our luck with a quick “drive” through the Tobago cays.  The seas were still up following the storm with large waves crashing over the outer horse-shoe reef, where all the snorkelling action is – of course.  So, we pushed on through and once out of the reef set a course between Palm and Union Islands, took a quick drift by the famous Mopion Island (a tiny circular sand cay) before checking out Petite Martinique as a possible anchorage.  In the end, we were so close to Carriacou, and as the sun was still shining and a nice breeze pushing WJ3 along, it made sense to keep going.  These islands make up a beautiful and easy cruising ground; it felt such a reward after all our challenges to date. 

View over Union Island, Carriacou (middle distance) and Grenada (beyond)

Tobago Cays. Nothing between you and the Atlantic except for a slender reef

The much romanticised Mopion Island

Tyrell Bay is one of those “safe” all-weather harbours.  It was certainly busier and more developed since our last visit.  The Cap’n drove us through the anchorage checking out suitable options, before settling beside the not-so-young starkers family (yes, more Frenchies).  The Cap’n & his Motley Crew still have nightmares.  Fortunately, GS discovered that Grenada was celebrating Carnival in the next week.  With few regrets, the anchor was raised (much too slowly by the boys!!) and we set sail via the appropriately named Kick-‘em-Jenny.  Dangerous to ships and boats, this active underwater volcano is said to occasionally belch large bubbles of gas.  It was last on Orange Alert in 2018 when we crossed from the Med.  Thankfully, we missed any action then and now, and settled safely in Clarke Courts Bay, Grenada without incident.  

Blessings in Bequia

Sun and spectacular sunsets too!  But no green flash... or was that a 80's thing?

We finally found the SUN in Bequia!  Things were looking up!  Our trusty Cap’n headed off to complete checking-in formalities with immigration/customs.  (This has to be done at every island where we stop!  Apparently at times it really tests his UN-learned diplomacy skills…).  As luck would have it, our Cap’n met up with Didi on “Blessing” at the dinghy dock.  She manages a mooring field just off the picturesque Plantation Hotel.  Best of all, there was a mooring available and we could stay 7 days.  We quickly left the swell of Lower Beach behind for this fantastic spot tucked nicely up in Admiralty Bay.  We must be going soft in our dotage?

White sandy beach near the Plantation Hotel.
Next time, GS is going to stay there a week!!

The weather held and with relish, we explored the tiny town, ate at cute coffee shops, tried the pizza and found a nice bar or three for evening drinks.  The town market had an array of beautiful fresh fruits and vegies, most brought over daily by fast ferry from St Vincent.  Best of all, there was a beautiful blue swimming pool at the back of our boat.  We used it every day.  Although the sighting of a coral sea snake lurking in the seaweed under our boat did cause a few moments of panic.  The lads also took the opportunity to snorkel nearby coral reefs, spotting baby lobsters, colourful fish and a troupe of divers exploring the depths below. 

Cute old timber shingle house

Bequia has a history of traditional boat building and in the early years, a whaling industry.  However, skills needed to continue this tradition have diminished with time.  We were saddened to hear that Withfield, who skilfully make our sturdy custom dodger and awnings in 2008 has since passed.  Daffodil, a floating barge laden with fuel and water (they take laundry too!) is still in operation.  We cannot understand how this brilliant concept has not become popular across the Caribbean.  In Georgetown, Bahamas, we had to line up at the petrol station with jerry cans, lug them to the dinghy dock, transport them back to the boat and then siphon the contents, can by can, into WJ3’s tank until full.  Repeat this performance for fresh water.  In March, there were hundreds of boats in Georgetown.  Well, enough moaning.  It must be time for another swim.  

Lovely clear water off a dinghy dock with WJ3
(look for her under the beige awning, in between the big cats)

View over Admiralty Bay as the sun goes down. 
Farewell to Bequia dinner at an upstairs restaurant in town near the dock.