Finding El Greco

Cyclades by Ferry_Part 2

The original frieze at the Museum

Visiting the Museum allowed us a little more “artistic” licence when visiting Knossos - a field of ruins, a sea of visitors and, with a one way walking track, little chance to roam off limits.  Whilst there is some vitriol directed to Archaeologist Evans for “restoring**” parts of the site, I think it engages you more with the palace as it might once have been, and I’m guessing that having given his life to studying the Minoans, he should, if anyone, have had a better chance of visualising the great beauty of the grand Palace of Knossos.  We floated in and around palace ruins (sans guide - brave!), just trying to take its measure.

**It's that old argument of restoration vs conservation.  Never easy, but when you see how brilliantly restoration can be done then maybe it’s not so bad. 

How it might have looked.  On site, Knossos

Knossos: Bull Relief, north entrance

The mythical labyrinth that once housed a Minotaur (half man/half bull) is said to have been close to Knossos.  Legend has it that Theseus slayed the Minotaur but just for good measure, our wonderful hero, Hercules was sent to capture it as his seventh labour.  King Minos was obviously spoiled for hero choice. 

Long after the Minoans became legend, the Venetians came a knockin’ (1205–1669). Here on Crete, following the 4^th Crusade and as part of the Byzantine Empire, they established a series of fortifications and shipyards along this most valuable of trade routes.  The Ottomans were also keen to acquire this strategic Aegean island, so these forts at Hania, Rethymnion and Iraklion were serious constructions.

Venetian Dockyards, Hania
(once at the very water's edge)

We travelled to Hania by local bus following a spectacular, though rock fringed, coastline.  El Greco, a famous artist of the period had family connections in Hania, so it seemed appropriate that not only should we wander the quaint old streets and warehouses there, but stay in a hotel called El Greco. 

Nowadays these streets are lined with stacks of markets, dress shops, souvenir sellers and cafes; probably in much the same manner it was back then.  Just for good measure, we visited a Venetian dock that houses a replica of a Minoan ship.  Having seen the remnants of a Bronze Age ship discovered near Bodrum (in Turkey), it was fascinating to compare the two and imagine another Greek hero, Odysseus, setting off for Troy in one of these seemingly fragile craft.

Boats & stuff...oh goodie!  Hania

Model of a Minoan Ship in a Venetian Dockyard (now Museum), Hania

Mosque of the Janissaries, Hania

So, with our journey through the Cyclades over, it’s time to return to the calmer waters of the Ionians and “relax” over a little boat maintenance before setting off on another adventurous voyage ourselves. 

Venetian Fort, Iraklion

Morosini Fountain, Iraklion  17th c Venetian, really needs some TLC

Finding King Minos

Cyclades by Ferry_Part 1

From the Ferry Port, you can see the villages of Fira
& Firostefani, Santorini balancing on the caldera rim

I suppose you are all wondering why we abandoned the fabulous other woman for a ferry.  It's answered simply with a decision not to backtrack (a time factor really), a lack of suitable anchorages in Santorini and Crete and of course, the Meltemi.  The big Blue Star from Athens was as solid as a rock and the weather held – all the way to Crete.  Now it’s blowing a gale and as temporary landlubbers, we don’t actually care.  Tonight’s Minoan Lines is even bigger, so we’re expecting a decent trip back to Athens and a long bus ride in the morning back to Preveza, and WJ3 if she’s talking to us. 

A view to impress - from our hotel room

Cruise Ship passengers come up by gondola or donkey, we took a bus...

Santorini is very photographic & nicely kept

After a couple of wonderful nights perched high on Santorini’s cliff edge, we arrived in Crete, a totally different fish.  Sadly, Crete shows evidence of some financial distress but regardless, friendly people carry on catering for its many visitors.  We came in search of Minoans, tales of the Minotaur and Hercules’ daring feats.  Others come for beaches but truthfully, it’s not worth leaving home.  Beyond Iraklion to the west are some well-preserved Venetian forts/towns, so we’ve planned an excursion by local bus to Hania.

Minoan civilization dates back to 2100 BC with Knossos its most famous and fabulous palace complex; this is considered Europe’s first civilization and first palace, all ruled over by King Minos.  By 1500 BC, the more aggressive Mycenaeans had taken control of Crete and its substantial, well-established trade routes.  It’s been suggested that this takeover was made easier by the devastation caused by Santorini’s eruption and subsequent massive tsunami(s). 

 

Sirens - female heads & bodies of birds of prey; funerary symbols

First stop on our itinerary was the Iraklion Archaeological Museum which boasts an impressive collection of all things Minoan.  Items are arranged in chronological order by room, so it makes understanding the rise and fall of this civilization easier.  Whilst textiles haven’t survived, plenty of frescoes and artwork on pottery provides some idea of how the wealthiest Minoans decorated themselves and their homes.  Cretan craftsmanship of this period is simply amazing, especially the richly decorated Kamares ware; enough to inspire anyone in the fine art of pottery.  (Photos to follow.  Well, maybe....)

The Tempest & Furies

A room with a View

Athens, Greece

So, here we are sitting in a room in Athens with a fabulous view of the Acropolis.  Jetlagged, GS is weeping into her beer.  The scenery, spectacular as it is, cannot be photographed.  Well, not yet anyway. 

Some may recall that GS celebrated a significant birthday with the purchase of a DSLR.  Working on the principle that it can’t be much more complex than a point and shoot, she left discovering its technicalities until - well, the very last minute. 

So Cap’n I Told You So left her to her hissy fit, but not before providing a sedative (a beer or two and a few youtube videos) to assist in working out this complex little device.  Hmmm.

That's better...up on the hotel rooftop & bar (for sedatives only, naturally!)

Our next scenario is a balcony with a view of Santorini to die for.  GS has managed a few digital basics but is not happy with her wide-angle lens.  Even her phone offers better shots and a panorama option as well…  This folks then, is the blonde moment.  The camera came with three lenses and GS, in an effort to save weighty luggage, left one behind.  Yep, you guessed it - the wide angle.  Another hissy fit ensues and the Cap’n leaves the room again but not so discretely, wondering if said camera will learn to fly over the edge of Santorini’s caldera.

Just calming my nerves, my dear

Eruptions are not new to Santorini.  It is the site of one of the largest volcanic events in human history, (1650 BC).  This famously ended Minoan civilization, the remains of which are now being excavated at various points around the island; or rather what remains of it.  Santorini’s extensively photographed (well, by some any way!) white and blue villages perch along and over the volcano’s steep rim.  It’s all rather delightful but somehow our trusty Cap’n can see that life ahead will not be all wine & roses unless the camera issue is solved…and soon!

The white village of Firostefani crests the caldera

Hitting the Frog and Toad

Suddenly, we’ve realised that it’s only 6 weeks until launch time.  Yes, time to hit the road again for another year of Time Out.  This year, our basic float plan is to swan about the Adriatic.  Did you know in times gone by, a black swan was a sailor's symbol of infinity, or the unknown.  It was thought of as kind of fantastical creature.  (Didn’t they have rather a menagerie of fantastical creatures in Ancient Greece?).  So I guess it’s just as well they didn’t sail up the Swan River (in WA) then.  Anyway, I digress.  Essentially our Float Plan is to catch up on those places we missed last year by being overly ambitious.  Thus we have come up with a “Loop of the Adriatic” for 2015.


From Wiki

 Stage 1: Cyclades by Ferry (1 week - May)

Having zoomed through the Aegean to give the Meltemi a miss last year, we (actually “The Cook & Bottle-Washer”) decided we should spend a week travelling by ferry from Athens to visit Santorini and Crete.  It would be remiss to leave Greece without visiting famous Knossos.  Think Minoans, Minotaur, Hercules and a little bit about Shirley Valentine. ; )   Hee hee hee!

Stage 2: Splash – Preveza; Greece to Croatia (2 weeks - May)

Daring to believe that WJ3 will NOT need repairs and perhaps the teensiest bit of maintenance this year, we plan to make Croatia soonest.  That should give us a good month or so floating round this interesting coastline, all the while dodging expensive marinas, large fleets of charterers and huge holiday camps of naturists. (Bribie, take note of possibilities!)  We shall report back. 

Stage 3: Croatia to Italy (5 weeks - June)

After all the swanning around in Croatia, we’ll take off for a week or two in Venice for a little intellectual stimulation (if we can manage it) and then take a slow-ish trip down Italy’s east coast calling in at a few marinas and docks.  The quest is two-fold - historic landmarks and Italian food.  Let’s hope the weather is kind, sunny and tranquil. 

Stage 4: Italy to Montenegro & Albania (3 weeks - July)

By now the Italians in their designer everything (including yachts) will be haunting Montenegro’s coastline.  This is the start of the silly season and rocketing prices, so we’ll dally for a week (if we’re socially acceptable) and then hit the road for another brief stopover in Albania to clear out of the EU’s fiscal clutches. 

Stage 5: Albania to Greece – Haulout (4 weeks - August)

August will see us getting ready to haul out – somewhere!  Not sure if we’ll return to Preveza or try to scamper on for a wet berth in Sicily. (Now that’s really living dangerously!).  As we have flights booked from Preveza though, I’m guessing the decision’s already been made.  I suspect GS & those sneaky donkeys have been working on a little plan together…. 

The Ride of the Valkyrs (1909) by John Charles Dollman (from Wiki)
The Valkries were also known to be Swan Maidens

Stage 6: Land Legs - Scandinavia (5 weeks – August - September)

The chances of us living long enough to ever “see it all” are diminishing by the year.  For this logical and very sane reason (not to mention those big North Seas – have you seen Trawler Men??) we are taking a land tour.  We’ve decided to SKI – not on long skinny planks wrecking elderly knees but rather reducing certain persons’ inheritance.  Hope they’re not reading this.  Anyway, our swan-song should be fun; 36 long days of togetherness and suitcase living, all in a cold climate.  Hmmm!

Brave Visitors: 

Keep in touch by email if you’d like to catch up with us.  GS will endeavour to keep WJ3’s Map and Tracker updated regularly so that you can see exactly where we are.  We will try to fit in with your plans but are sadly & strictly “regulated” by our 90 day visa.  This means we can’t wait anywhere for too long, or indeed change this itinerary too drastically.  Notes on what to bring (and what not to bring) can be found here on the updated Visitors Guide.  BYO black swan….

Fast & Furious to Istanbul

Istanbul, Turkey

Our chariot (taxi) driver rather liked history

Well, here we are.  Istanbul - back where we started all those months ago!  Now, if I said it was raining, would you believe me?  The overnight bus from Plovdiv and associated stops at border points meant we had little sleep.  Jumping a taxi at the huge downtown bus terminal in the bleak early hours meant a fast ride into the city centre.  Zooming along at 130kph (“Put your seatbelts on”, yelled George as we left.), this ride was better than caffeine.  Still, unlike last time, we actually made it to the front door of our hotel.  No time to spare though….quick, I need a bathroom!

We had organised a few days to recover in Istanbul and used the time to re-visit (perhaps for the last time) our favourite city.  Well, actually they’re all our favourites but there’s just something about Istanbul.  Even Mark Twain would agree! 

Cavalry Bazaar - clearly one of us doesn't like shopping...

Old timber cottages behind the Blue Mosque

So, it's goodbye to Hagia Sophia then

Of course, Wednesday was Republic Day, so as if in a dream, we walked around town from the Cavalry Bazar to the Spice Bazar amongst a huge crowd enjoying their public holiday.  The next day we took shelter from heavier rain in the Grand Bazaar until overwhelmed, then took to the quieter corridors of the Archaeological Museum.  With wet shoes and a certain lack of enthusiasm, we then spent a day at the hotel enjoying a late breakfast and a bit of doing nothing much.  We discovered though, that the Museum of Turkish Arts is well on the way with its renovation plans and finding an Economist magazine in English is a bit of a challenge. 

Finally it was time to catch the tram to Atatürk Airport and check out of Turkey.  No more muezzins’ calls, no more carpets and no more cats’ meows. 

 

So ends our seventh season, which started with a visit to Troy & Gallipoli, then continued on in leisurely boating style:

• a memorable cruise up Turkey's west coast,
• a quick sail through the Greek Aegean Islands,
• taking a red panda to explore ruin-strewn Peloponnese, 
• a lingering sail round the Ionians before
• dashing to Albania to explore this little visited (by sail boats) country. 

Pre-haul out in Preveza Marina - washing sails

Finally, it was back to Preveza for haul out.  Windjammer has settled into a yard shared with donkeys, goats and friendly dogs.  She won't be missing us at all.  With WJ3 safely in her cradle, we took off to visit George & Annette in Vienna before taking our Intrepid trip to Eastern Europe. 

 

We'll be back next year for some more slow boating, the general plan to make it to Italy. More or less. Watch this space for plans as they evolve...

Slow boating

 (A reminder of our happy watery trails (the map & tracker) can be found here.)

So it's goodbye & A Very Merry Christmas 2014 from us

Following Ancient Lives

Plovdiv, Bulgaria

Come on guys, you'll miss the train to Plovdiv

Armed with a couple of litres of melnik courtesy of our host, we made for the train station in Bankso and anticipated a snowy adventure through steep mountains.  The trains were warm, platforms not, so we had a wee wait for a connecting train at a town with a rather difficult name.  Correct pronunciation it seems, was related to quantities of melnik consumed; hang-overs from the previous day/night included.  We knew this sturdy red wine would come in handy for something!

Train Waiting at What_Name Station?

Plovdiv was our last fling – last for Bulgaria, and essentially the end of our trip.  The old town, Stari Grad, was charming, an easy place to lose yourself and explore.  Be warned, the hills are steep and the cobbles life-threatening.  Seriously, the old town is said to predate Athens, Rome and Constantinople (Istanbul) with its Thracian fort ruins (5000 BC Eumolpias), scattering of Roman relics, Ottoman mosques, medieval structures and baroque timber mansions.  Angelina led us on a breathless “stream of consciousness” tour around the main sites before we were let loose to discover according to our own whims.

Nebet Tepe (Prayer Hill) with walls from Eumolpias, 5000 BC

Reconstructed Roman Amphitheatre (discovered 1970)
built during reign of Emperor Trajan

Hisar Kaplya, medieval eastern gate 11th c
reconstruction of Roman walls

Bulgarian Revival - Lamartine House (1829)

One of many fixer-upper mansions in the old district

GS took in the Ethnographic Museum (1847) set in an elegant baroque mansion and beautiful gardens, made a B-line for an antiques shop with textiles, and finally meditated over artworks in the City Art Gallery.  The Cap’n, seizing an opportunity for self-determination, made for the Archaeological Museum though spent his time next door reflecting over Bulgaria’s National Revival (modern history).  There was a little time left to shop in Kapana (judiciously called The Trap) and have a hot chocolate in pedestrianised Knyaz Aleksandar Street before making for the bus station and our midnight border rendezvous.

Ethnographic Museum - as interesting for the building as its collection

Interior - a life for the privileged

Antique Textiles - oh yes, please!

Art in the making _ near the City Art Gallery

Bears in the Woods

Bankso, Bulgaria

The fencing was substantial (& electric)

We were off on a hot date!  Mercifully, the weather held and even sleepy bears managed to stay awake for our visit.  Our host had organised a trip up into the hills to visit the Belitsa Bear Sanctuary, home in a natural forested area for some badly mistreated ex-dancing bears.  Thankfully, training of dancing bears was prohibited in 1998 and now some 27 rescued bears have found a home in this peaceful sanctuary. 

The track up into the hills was quite muddy and farmers were clearly well into preparations for winter lock-down but the scenery was just stunning.  After some heroic driving, we arrived at the base of the sanctuary.  Yes, base.  There were just a few steps (did someone say 300 or so) to get to the top of the park.  Oh well, we did really need to walk off a few calories…

 

We saw the bears!  They were waiting for us, although some looked a little sleepy.  Clearly these once mistreated bears were happy in their new homes, with spacious accommodations, plenty to eat and trained staff to take care of them.  They have access to vet services and an ambulance is even on hand.  It is wonderful so see them offered a chance at a new life.  This park is funded by the Four Paws and the Brigitte Bardot Foundations.

A measure of the success of this park is that most bears are hibernating without assistance.  Even so, they’re not likely to ever be released into the wild as they just couldn’t cope. 

Now, meet some of our gorgeous friends: