Risky Business

Funchal, Madeira

So, just when does the fun actually begin?

Life in Madeira is more exciting than you might think.  We’ve compiled a list of our favourite “Risky Things”, just in case you ever find yourself in need of a more stimulating life:

#1.  Take A Local Bus

Now, I’m not talking a Funchal city ride.  The one out to Baia da Abra, the extreme east of Madeira, is sufficient.  Boa Viagem and all that!  Snaking, narrow roads, vertigo-inducing cliffs and passing an airport runway built on stilts.  And bus drivers whose ambition is firmly set on Formula One.  We survived the 1 ½ hour trip (several times), but not without some trauma given the smell of burning breaks.  Locals don’t even flinch.  At the Airport, a car hire firm advertises: "MadeiraRent, Drive like a local".  On board the bus, tourists can’t help but snigger.  Every time.  Locals must wonder but WE have badges of merit now – local bus tickets.

Super Glue your car to the roads in Madeira

#2.  Walk in the Sky

OK, so this is not going to be one of those Extreme Sports, but taking a walk over the glass floor of Europe’s highest Cape (and the World’s second highest I might add), certainly sends a chill up or two down your spine.  There is nothing but a sheer 575m drop down and if the clouds lift, the views are spectacular.  As are most of the views as you travel around Madeira.  We took a wild train ride up.  The roads were even narrower and steeper than #1 above.  Yes, our train driver must be related to Jack Brabham too.

Trying very hard not to look down_Cabo Girao

#3. Couch Surfing

Monte is uphill from Funchal.  We took the bus, but it is possible to take a Cable Car.  It’s a pleasant hill resort area and departure point for the wicker toboggans, famous since 1850, for getting locals downhill fast.  Two Carreiros, suitably dressed in traditional costume and straw boaters, use their shoes as brakes in a stunning 2km slide downhill on a very steep and well-polished track.  It looks so very touristy but it was the most fun we’d had in ages (and no comparison to sliding down breaking waves on the trip over). 

Ride a Wicker Basket.  Looks sedate enough....

Tell me there really are brakes on these things...  Oh dear, nooooo!!

#4. Build a Sand Castle

I’ve mentioned deep water.  We can’t seem to see any life in the clearly visible depths below, other than a few scrawny crabs.  The shores are black (volcanic) and the grains are hefty, water washed stones.  The Cap’n didn’t quite see eye-to-eye with the GS’s vision of an ocean-front, 3 bed, 2 bath castle with a moat.  Even if Churchill was rather fond of the place.

Pretty seaside village, Camara de Lobos, named after the rare Monk Seals
 (called sea wolves) found on nearby Desertas Islands

#5. Natural Defences

In Albania we discovered cactus had once been used as natural barbed wire.  Aside from everything else, anything prickly seems to grow with much enthusiasm here in Madeira too.  From Monte, we took a Cable Car to the Botanical Gardens.  It’s a great trip high over forest burned out by bushfires (2012) and we debated whether it was eucalypt, an oily, ticking bomb.  The Gardens were extremely lucky to have not been engulfed by the fires too.  The Cactus Garden especially, is a visual, prickly feast and the Galley Slave, along with many other photographers, snapped like crazy.  The orchid gardens are also inspiring and the Cap’n quickly moved her along, promising a stop in the Lovers Cave (oh, sure!), before she had too many gardening ideas for Dangar.

A prickly customer indeed..

A Dot in the Ocean

Madeira

Porto Santo (Holy Port) was famously discovered by shipwrecked sailors in 1418.  At the time, Prince Henry the Navigator had ambitious plans to develop the Portuguese Empire, so was quick to take up the advantages this tiny island off the African coast offered.  Less than 80 years later, Christopher Columbus, on-route to discover the Americas, spotted its potential (strategic position) as well.  Given that we’ve read Madeira’s highest peak is visible from 40km, we couldn’t understand how early settlers could have missed noticing it.  Instead they reported “heavy black clouds” to the south and on further inspection, found the island of Madeira underneath them.  Strangely enough, that’s just how we found it too - Porto Santo, bathed in the afternoon sun, and hovering, dark gray clouds a further 20 miles on. 

Taken from a bus window ....

Our charts reveal staggering depths close to Madeira, hence few “anchorage” options, but a cloak of cloud concealed steep hillsides (and lots of hiking Germans).  Even more surprising, are the terraced gardens, more Nepal than Europe, and the Islanders’ notoriety as agriculturalists, eking out a living on a volcanic cone that rises some 6km from the floor of the Atlantic Ocean.  (The last volcanic activity is said to have been 6,500 years ago, so we feel ok about being here…)

Madeira means “wood”, although little is left of that 1.8 million year old indigenous forest.  The island’s climate has three distinct zones, depending on how far up those hills you are prepared to climb.  Just getting from the marina (at sea level) to the nearby bus stop outside the resort is all the exercise we need.  Australian gardeners would certainly recognise many of the plants, especially the vines (for that famous drop, Madeira) and bananas.  Another home-grown world-wide export is Cristiano Ronaldo.  For those who don’t know, he’s a famous soccer player, although one has to wonder where they found enough flat ground to actually build a footie field.

Perfect one day (for a few hours at least!)

Positively horrible the next.

It’s a likeable island, attractive and clean, although winter is probably not the best time to be here, even if it is warmer than the rest of Europe.  Over the last two days we’ve been being battered by 25+kt winds from storms sweeping across the Atlantic.  Thankfully, we’re protected from the swell (this time) but not from gusts rolling down those steep hills behind.  The Cap’n has been busy, in the rain, tending mooring lines, swapping thin with robust and adding more to ensure we stay safely confined within our berth.  Hmmm!  Must be time to move on.

Off the Leash. At Last

X-ing File #1_Lagos to Madeira

Lagos, Portugal

After weeks of staring over the edge of the precipice, it was TIME.  We woke to marina time (Whoops!  Should have been up an hour ago…) and after duly noting the 7°C temperature at 8.30am, it was indeed time to go.  We packed up and refuelled then left with an interesting land breeze from the north.  By the time we reached Cape St Vincent, it was indeed rather strong but at least there was little traffic in the shipping lanes to play chicken with, so we scraped across and headed for our destination – Madeira.  We had high hopes of reaching it in 3 days (72 hours) of comfortable cruising. 

The first day was a disaster as the swell and 25kt winds and waves buffeted WJ3 on the starboard quarter creating perfect conditions for mal-de-mer and the Galley Slave, noting this was not her preferred angle of sail, wholeheartedly succumbed, leaving the Captain to hold the fort, so as to speak.  It should be noted that he too, was a little queasy.

On the second day, conditions improved, as did the Domestic Level of Happiness.  By the third (and with land in sight) all was back on track, sense of humours returned, the Captain had had some sleep and the crew was discussing plans for the X-ing of the Atlantic.

Initially, we had intended to stop at Porto Santo, once home to Christopher Columbus - he married a hardy local lass from the island.  Given the conditions, and the fact we had a workboat shadowing us (for good reasons we decided), WJ3 was instead pointed towards an anchorage on the east coast of Madeira.  Under current conditions (insert – the conditions in the anchorage were untenable), we swiftly moved for a safer berth in the marina.  It took us two days to recover.

Time Warp…Again

Lagos, Portugal

Actually, this is how we play up in Portimao

Well, here we are, in the marina at Lagos, playing the waiting game (and rather enjoying it).  Boat bits are the issue, as usual.  So, let me start with the weather.

The Atlantic has been a bit stirred up this year due to an exceptional hurricane season and some late tropical storms.  After sitting in Faro for a few days, we spotted an opportunity to get across to Madeira, and made our move to Portimao to clear out and stock up on fresh food for the hopefully, not-too-exciting 3 or 4 days crossing.  The day’s forecast offered a pleasant sail with 10-15kt breeze to help us along.  Even Faro’s Charybdis was caught napping at sunrise.  All seemed well; we were hurtling along to Portimao, when the Cap’n, working the main, heard a loud bang. 

Whatever it was, was not immediately obvious so we continued on to the Portimao Marina and checked in.  Next morning, our trusty Cap’n discovered damage at the base of the mast – a fitting supporting the mast and vang had corroded and given way exposing two bolts – and that sent us into a bit of a spin.  At best we could have more bolts drilled to secure the fitting to the deck or at worst, have the whole mast lifted and a new fitting inserted.  Further pressure was added given His Captainship’s 3-month visa (EU) was nearly up!

Alongside Sopromar's dock, Lagos_early morning calm 

Sopromar kindly managed to fit us in and a few days later, following consultation with Pedro and Paolo, the situation expertly rectified with a custom fitting installed and welded over the mast base (technical details will be on the H460 site).  The Cap’n of the Never-Ending Chore List has not been dragged off to police cells – just yet.  We are very cosy now in the Lagos Marina, despite rather chilly nights, and with the old town just across the river, a supermarket a short walk away and Sunday Roast on offer at Marina restaurants, who would not?   

There's time to catch up on chores

And a little time to relax_with Dive Club Cipreia

We’re hoping the parcel of boat bits manages to arrive this week (before those dock lines become too tight) and we can pick up another opportunity to hit the big blue.

Not Retreating

Faro, Portugal

For those of you who have noticed our sudden move east, rest assured we are heading south to the Canaries.  Soon!  When the weather provides us with a suitable window for the 3 day (or so) crossing.

Why then, are we in Faro?  You may well ask…  We splashed Thursday, 2 Nov just after 3pm and decided to make for Portimao to anchor rather than be wimps and seek the security of the Lagos Marina (otherwise known as Port Velcro).  We had our sea legs in mind.  So did the natural forces!  We had a bouncy ride over, reminding us that we had forgotten to stow away for Atlantic conditions, followed by a rattler of a night (shaken not stirred) on anchor given a wind against tide against swell.  Friend, KT, can attest to the delights of this experience.  On that occasion (2012), we sought relief in the Portimao Marina.  On this, we made post haste for Faro and its delightful (and calm) anchorage off Ilha da Culartra.  

The winds were strong and perfect for a brisk sail along the coast; a chance to get the bugs out and remind us why we subscribe to this boating life.  We were brought back to earth with the sighting of Faro’s notorious lagoon entrance.  Naturally, we had perfectly timed it for a challenging ride.  Imagine if you will, those (river) Bar Crossing videos…  We could have made one too but what we both really wanted to do was hide in the loo.  In truth, all we could do was hold on.  In we surfed (all 46 feet of us) as the water in the channel eddied and swirled threateningly.  Our forward momentum was brought to a sudden halt as we hit the outward current running at least 5kts.  It seemed to take forever before we actually moved forward to escape the clutches of this minor Charybdis.  

Hugs all round and lashings of wine after setting the hook, right on last light.  

On anchor - look no swell!

Our neighbours with barrier island Culatra beyond

Culatra Settlement & fishing boat harbour

Let the Season Begin

Lagos, Portugal

So, here we are, in the Sopromar boatyard yet again, facing up to the start of another season of that enviable “boating life”.  The Cap’n has of course, been here for months working on getting the Other Woman into shape for her trip back to the Americas.  As she is heading for home, Miss Windjammer does need to look her best.  Progress however is slow and we currently sit amidst the innards of a new fridge/freezer.  Decked out Rambo-style in cross-body coils of electrical wire, tubes, power tools and switches, the Cap’n means serious business as the end of our time here in Portugal looms. Details of his foray into the bowels of the boat will eventually, along with observations of his work undertaken in 2016, make its way onto the H460 site.  But don’t hold your breath for that to be published any time soon….

Our season at home 2016/17, has been somewhat challenging and despite our best efforts, we have been neglectful beyond measure to family, friends and neighbours.  Despite such neglect, Team Dangar kicked in to get the Galley Slave off Island with at least a modicum of (in)sanity in place and Boy Wonder, with a now Herculean to-do list, ensured she made her early, early morning flight with time to spare.  Josephine & Tavis kindly kept her awake and plied with wine as we defied gravity and turbulence winging our way to Faro.  Lastly, a heart-pounding drive with the Cap’n back to Lagos reminded us it was right to be on our way.  Heartfelt thanks to all.  The plan is to be back in Oz on or before May 2018 depending where we haul out.  Then we can set about remedying our neglect and any performance discrepancies, although Christmas cards will most certainly NOT make it out again this year.  However, we will be thinking of you all as we bob our way across the briny.

For now, we’ll continue on with a demanding daily schedule then end each day watching the sun go down over a somewhat cool Lagos.  The vantage point here from the boatyard is a delight, especially on a Sunday when all is quiet.  So, with a cold Vinho Verde in hand (as one must!) we salute to our time in the Med and look forward to challenges ahead.  On with the Show, this is it….

Dawn over a very calm Rio Bensafrim (at 7.30am)

The Lagos Fishing Fleet on a Sunday Morning

The Greater Pond Calls

It’s time to offer an outline of our very vague plans (X Files) for 2017…and 2018.  Yes folks, this is going to be one huge season with all the demands of an ocean crossing including skipping over quite a few seas for good measure.  It’s time to head back to the Americas. 

Our hardy Captain was intending to bolt for home once we made the Caribbean but was outvoted by the Crew who saw an opportunity to continue exploring more of US waters and possibly even Canada in future seasons.  No point contemplating another exhausting ocean crossing just yet.  Somehow, the Great Loop and all its interesting possibilities beckon.  But, let 's not get ahead of ourselves… 

So this year then is about boat work and lots of slow miles ahead; remembering that we took advantage of nature rather than the iron horse for all but one or two days in our previous crossing (in 2011)...  Daunting, but none-the-less exhilarating, to contemplate this hefty X File schedule:

Stage 1: Lagos, Portugal (August & September 2017)
Portugal for a few months of boat work.  This time we’re building some boat work contingency into the plan. Slow learners?  Hmmm!  The Captain could be on his lonesome for this.

Stage 2: Lagos to Cape Verde Islands (October to December 2017)
From Lagos we open the first X File and take a hop, step and jump through Madeira, the Canaries and Cape Verde Islands to position ourselves for THE big X (crossing).  We can’t take off too early as June to end of November is Hurricane Season, and we don’t want to mix it with those bad boys.

Stage 3: Cape Verde Islands to Caribbean (January 2018)
Our exact landfall in the Caribbean is yet to be decided but as we plan to head back to the US coast, quite possibly to haul out in the Chesapeake area again, we will aim as high up the chain as we can. 

Stage 4: Caribbean to Chesapeake  (February to May 2018)
We will be covering a lot of “old” ground so there will be little need to dawdle until we make it to the Snow Birds’ wintering grounds, the Bahamas.  Back in the security of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (USA) with all X Files closed, we’ll begin our search for Windjammer’s next home-away-from-home.  Our biggest challenge may be to secure Visas for travel in the US.  Are we aliens?  I'm not telling!

Oh no, NOT that old route again!!

Valiant Visitors: 

Keep in touch by email if you’d like to catch us.  WJ3’s map and tracker will be updated regularly (hopefully) so that you can see exactly when & where we are.  Given this schedule and all the weather implications we'll not be able to fit in with precise travel plans, so you must be prepared to meet us!  Internet connectivity will be an issue too as we are sailing through many countries, all with different regulations.  Skymate will be set up again (satellite comms) and when the time comes, we’ll provide guidance on how to send us brief messages.  Notes on what to bring (and what not to bring) can be found in the updated Visitors Guide.  BYO sea sickness pills and sense of humour….