'Ear we are

Cascais, Portugal

A hasty post to let you all know that we have arrived....  After 7.5 days and finally breaking free of the Azores High, we splashed into the Nortada, the Portuguese Trade Winds (summer northerlies) to sail, motor, sail, motor etc in much calmer conditions than our previous legs.  

So here we are, drinking wine (Potuguese of course!) and eating freshly grilled sardines in colourful, touristy Cascais.  Sadly, these sardines are the closest we've been to a fish over the course of our crossing, but that's another story.

BW caught up with us too.  He has met up with his Aussie mate in Portugal to experience life surfing in Peniche, a little further north of us.  The surf there is apparently much better than the East Coast USA.  

For those interested in statistics, we've just travelled 3827 nautical miles in 32 (sailing) days to get here.  And are we ever glad to have finally made it.

Lads, how are we going to fit all this into Bruce?

Boys Afloat

Crossing Josephine

Ancient Passages to the Mediterranean

Our passage from the Azores to Portugal was less than exciting (hooray, hooray) and we only saw a smallish pod of dolphin herding fish for a tasty snack, a few pilot whales plonking along until they caught sight of us and vanished, then some sea birds that appeared to be swimming their way across to Lisbon.  Yes…you’re absolutely right – we had very little wind. 

Shy Pilot Whales and a very calm Josephine. 

Those cheeky pilot whales came back to follow us late one night; we couldn't see them, only hear lots of heavy breathing.  Remember those days of anonymous, late night phone calls?  Well, GS was on night shift, so could you blame them for having a bit of a giggle? 

This area on our charts is called Josephine.  As in “Not tonight Josephine”…no wind, no sailing, no cloud, no rain.  Just an ever-present swell!!!  New York is some 3000 nautical miles directly back over that horizon!  That's about 5,556 kilometres / 3,452 miles away - port to port in a few days, if your lucky enough to be in a big ship.

Anyway, that famous mischief-maker, the Azores High, clutched at poor WJ3 for 3 days until we managed to break free into the Portuguese trade winds, called the Nortada.  Then, some days we slipped along and most evenings we were becalmed.  Finally, WJ3’s engine was cranked up….  So, our voyage became an endless motor, sail, motor, sail – well, for most of the 7½ days anyway!

Luckily, our worst problems were getting across the busy shipping lanes around Portugal's famous landmark, Cabo da Roca.  Large freighters funnelled in from nowhere and we saw more in the couple of hours crossing these shipping lanes than we had on our entire voyage from New York. True to form though, we arrived in Cascais, fortunately an easy anchorage and well-outside of Lisbon, especially when you arrive in the dark. 

WJ3 at anchor in Cascais

Having set the hook in a comfortable position (AND in sand, sand, sand not mud) we gave up the idea of travelling up river and on to Lisbon.  There’s limited or no anchoring in the Tejo (Tagus) and most of the marinas are small; full to the brim with local craft.  Besides, we fell for the charms of Cascais.  Even though it is in part very touristy, it retains its old town appeal and is quite picturesque. And little cafes on cobbled streets serve the best pan-fried sardines!

From: Sao Miguel, Ponta Delgada  Lat/Long: 37:44.3100N  25:39.8230W

To: Portugal, Cascais  Lat/Long: 38:41.8300N  09:24.8750W

Date/Time: 17/9/11: 1415  Date/Time: 24/9/11: 2200

Time Taken: 795.6nm (178hrs)

Distance:4719.6nm (870.5hrs) (this year) Dist Total: 10091.6nm (since 2008)

Weather: S-SW turning N-NW; 15kts most wind we had; 0-5’ seas;

Fastest Speed: 4.5 to 6.5kts depending upon winds & Josephine’s mood

Mediterranean....Here We Come!

São Miguel

Finally we’ve found a reasonable weather window…more or less.  So we’re off again for the 8 to 10 day trip to Lisbon tomorrow (Saturday).  At this stage we both just want to get the whole trip over with so we can settle back into our former day tripping, easy sailing life - plus dig out the BBQ and all the other little treasures that make life comfortable for us.  We’ll both be happy (GS more so...) to see an end to the wild old Atlantic.

A little aside for those curious as to our change of heart re: occupying marinas.  Harbours in the Azores are at best rocky and space is always confined.  The authorities don’t much like you anchoring (even if you could find a sandy patch) and getting in the way of commercial shipping is rather frowned upon.  Marina prices are very reasonable - 16 Euros a night including water & electricity.  And we always seem to be in the heart of both a port and town.  Here in Ponta Delgada, we are in the entertainment district too – just think, restaurants galore, bands and nightclubs starting at 10pm and going until at least 2am most of the week!!  We have a lot of adjusting to European ways… ;-)

No looking back now...

A Little Bit Zen

Ponta Delgada, São Miguel

WJ3 at the Ponta Delgada Marina

By now you’re probably thinking…“When-ever are they going to leave the Azores?”  After our whirlwind tour of the Caribbean and East Coast USA, we’re planning to slow down a little.  Enjoy a zen inspired dock life…at least until Cap’n Restless gets an itch to move on.  So, we’ve been practising of late - and getting rather good at it!

Weather in truth, has held us in Ponto Delgada, São Miguel.  Firstly Hurricane Katia smashed against UK’s west coasts and that turned easterly winds upon us.  Not good for heading east.  So, to appease nautical gods, we went on a pilgrimage to the spa resort of Funas (by bus, we’re not into tramping). 

Furnas Caldeiras

Furnas Valley is the remains of an enormous steep-sided volcanic crater and at its centre sits a small, very neat village.  We arrived early (Is this really the centre of the village?) and had a coffee waiting for it to waken.  Still nothing, so we walked down to the terraces of smoking hot springs (caldeiras) accompanied by our appointed village guide dog.  Mud galouped, water boiled and steam hissed – it was quite a spectacular performance.  If you could stand the sulphurous smell, you could quickly boil an egg or two for lunch. 

We walked back down the main street (still nothing much open) to find the Turismo (for the turisticos) to get directions to the Terra Nostra Botanical Gardens. 

Volcanic Lake at Terra Nostra Gardens

These gardens date from 1780 when an inspired American, Thomas Hickling, built himself a summer residence, “Yankee Hall” and planted 2 ha of trees native to North America.  The house has since been rebuilt and renamed (1848), a nice hotel added (1930’s) and grounds extended by the owners, Praia (a Viscount) and then Bensaude families.  The park itself is a marvel, inspired by turn of the century British “grand” garden design and its owners have remained faithful to that concept.  What made it all the more interesting was the use of plants so familiar to us in Sydney’s temperate climate. There's even a little Wollemi Pine! 

Washing away many sins too...

Of course, we didn’t come to pay homage to plantings of hydrangea or agapanthus.  We, like the many faithful before us, came to bathe in the lake’s thermal sulphurous spring waters.  Iron stained, they bubble and steam their way from underground cauldrons to give us a milky spa bath.  These springs are said to be remedial, so we lingered, along with many others I suspect, in the hope of youth-giving properties too.  The only result - our distinguished grey locks are now tinted a ghastly mustard colour.

From: Terceira, Angra do Heroismo Lat/Long: 36:50.67N  76:17.92W

To: Sao Miguel, Ponta Delgada Lat/Long: 37:44.3100N  25:39.8230W

Date/Time: 9/9/11: 1045 Date/Time: 10/9/11: 0800

Time Taken: 92nm (21hrs)

Distance: 3924nm (692.5hrs) (this year)  Dist Total: 9296nm (since 2008)

Weather: NW; 20kts G25; turning SE o’nite; 12-15’ seas;

Fastest Speed: 4.5 to 6.5kts depending upon winds; a rolly run downhill

A Load of Old Bull

Angra do Heroismo, Terceira

Can you spot WJ3 nestled in this busy marina?

Bypassing São Jorge meant not only a night sail, but a night arrival in port. Again!  What is going on this year? Perhaps the navigator needs sacking - this would be our 4^th night arrival.  Maybe it’s just too, too much vinho tinto…  The friendly night guard helped us settle in and found us a great spot in the inner harbour; the reception dock being a bit too wild – the current runs strongly and WJ3 would not sit still!

Late next morning we checked in.  Again it was a very pleasant experience, so different to some of our Caribbean receptions.  The port was a picture; no wonder it's UNESCO heritage listed.  We started with an “about town” self-guided walking tour but somehow got lost in picturesque terraced gardens, still watered by watering can.  From the fragrant gardens we wound through ancient back alleys trying to find the Convent of São Francisco. 

A sweet face inside the Musseum

This is where Vasco da Gama (in 1499 no less) buried his brother Paulo on return from his voyage to India.  If nothing else, this demonstrates how strategically significant the Azores were and indeed continue to be today - the US has an airbase here, lucky them!  The Convent now houses an interesting Museum with an extensive collection of historical items.  We especially liked the dramatic props (sculptures really) used to display various equestrian items. 

Next we hired a car – a little black Panda - and did an anti-clockwise whip around the island.  High points were seeing nothing from the high point, (Santa Barbara was clouded in), walking through sulphur-fuming (very smelly)  fumeroles then finding the underground caves closed.  We did see lots of colourful shrines (so very Nepal) and wondered, for a short time only, about religious similarities.  As you might!

Our Hero

The real highlight of our stay in Terceira was being audience to a village touradas a corda.  The island is well known for its form of bull-fighting…bull-running, bull-on-a-rope, call it what you will, it’s all entertainment, spectacle and testosterone.  This event is thought to have originated from a time when villagers released wild bulls to ward off an enemy’s invasion.  Anyway, I’ll get back to you on that one!  Never let facts get in the way of an excuse for men to show their bravery, then afterwards have a chat with the lads and to get stuck into a local brew or vinho. 

Bull Handlers hoping to stop him running amok

The villagers had fun, we had fun and the bulls – well, they were a little tired, but each had his 15 minutes of fame….  (For any horrified animal lovers, these bulls don’t end up as beef steak.  They are heroes for one day a year, very much admired, then sent back to pasture to tell all their lovely ladies about the dreadful time they had playing with silly humans.) 

From:	Faial, Horta	To:	Terceira, Angra do Heroismo
Lat/Long:	38:32.0090N  28:37.5160W	Lat/Long:	36:50.67N  76:17.92W
Date/Time:	5/9/11: 1345	Date/Time:	6/9/11: 0230
Time Taken:	69nm (12.5hrs)
Distance:	3832nm (671.5hrs) (this year)	Dist Total	9204nm (since 2008)
Weather:	SE - E ; 15-20kts; 3’ seas; variable between the islands
Fastest Speed:	8kts on leaving Faial (a high) then 4-5kts belting in on the nose (a low point)

And the last word goes to the Bull...

The Rear View Mirror

Passages through the Azores: São Jorge

We meant to stop at Velas, São Jorge but miscommunication between Cap’n & Navigator saw us closing in on Calheta, a further 10 miles east.  Either way, the breeze was a swift south-easterly so stopping of any kind (marina or anchor) was certainly now out of the question.  Thus ended our leisurely two day sail to Angra do Heroismo on Terceira; we were full into an overnighter, oh well!

São Jorge's dramatic cliffs. High cliffs mean deep, deep water.

Even so, we hugged the length of São Jorge’s rugged coast amazed at how dark rain clouds lingered over the top of the island.  Dramatic cliffs, plunging ravines and cascading waterfalls surrounded by lush green vegetation made us think back to our time in Bhutan.  These high cliffs were topped with white painted cottages and terraced pastures.  Bird life was in abundance and we’re told the odd cry we hear is Cory’s Shearwaters (for those birdy inclined) that nest high in the cliffs.  It really was an amazing view – one that you could only get from the water.

Fond Farewell Faial

Horta Port & Marina

At last it was time to go.  Really.  The Cap’n risked life, limb and the odd dog bite to climb to a nearby miradouro to take in a final panoramic vista of the Horta Marina complex.

 Meanwhile back at the boat, GS got arty and prepared to paint up WJ3’s calling card on the marina seawall. 

A modest contribution by GS - showing our true blue!

And the Cap'n added the Finishing Flags to our artwork

Finally we slipped out of the marina (not exactly quietly – but we do relish a challenge) and headed off for Sao Jorge.  “We forgot to go see the old Whaling Station,” said the Cap’n ruefully as we watched Faial disappear behind us.

Ilha da Vinho...or two

Taking the ferry to Pico

 Madalena, Ilha do Pico

Pico Island looks like a sombrero.  Its crown is, would you believe, the tallest mountain in Portugal, Pico Alto at 2351m.  The top is capped with a crater and then a smaller volcanic cone.  All this is often shrouded in a cloud sombrero!  And it’s still fumes (to a degree) so we are told.  Six of the (nine) Azores islands are considered actively volcanic.  Have we said that before?  Nooooo, we’re not nervous!

So, it was on a Friday we caught the local ferry across “the Canal” to Madalena on Pico.  We decided we wouldn’t do the round island trip, view lakes or volcanic craters, or peek into dimly lit churches.  We couldn’t take in the panorama from the view terrace on Mt Pico (too much cloud cover) and the 6 hour climb to the peak was never on our TTD (things to do) list.  Instead we lunched at a cute harbour-side café in the sun.  The Cap’n had a real fish (salmon) burger and GS sampled octopus salad, which looked more like a plate of octopus salsa swimming in oil and vinegar.  But with a little fresh Portuguese bread, it tasted just fine. 

Dragon under the Dragon Tree _Wine Museum Grounds

What we did come to Pico to do though was to visit the Wine Museum.  Volcanic soils (lava fields) made Pico a wine producing centre as early as the 18^th century and its famous produce, verdelho, was even enjoyed by the Czars of Russia.  That landscape has now been declared an UNESCO World Heritage Site (2004) and a Wine Museum has been established in the old Carmelite Convent to tell the story of this unique method of cultivation.

Aside from producing wine, early settlers also grew figs in amongst the vines.  Those tasty figs were then refined into a potent brandy.  The museum had a restored “still” set up so I’ve taken a set of plans for you Mum and we’ll be home to install it shortly.  In the meantime, get Dad to empty out his garden shed, plant a few more fig trees amongst the grape vines and we're in business…..

Looking Back at Madalena _ Pico Mtn still under cloud cover

Horta Ho!

Horta, Faial

Faial is known locally as “Ilha Azul”, meaning blue island, but from our vantage point at sea, it shone through cloud cover like a beautiful emerald.  We rounded the impressive Caldo di Inferno before sliding into the Horta Marina reception dock, WJ3 resplendent in plastic fenders, to protect her from serious concrete burn.  The Cap’n quickly completed check-in procedures and we chugged off to our “finger” at Dock C15.  We would stay here until we left, we decided.

A very busy Horta Marina

The marina is busy despite it being well past the May/June peak season.  Visitors are mostly European with a few late North American stragglers (like us).  We are rubbing shoulders with fishing boats, impressive cruisers (one with helicopter & international crew), and all sizes and shapes of sail boats.  The Europeans have a fondness for aluminium boats and the Cap’n eyes them, dreaming I suspect, of WJ4.  Some are plastic fantastics like WJ3, others are solid, all weather cruisers.  A few are certainly home designed character boats.  We share one commonality – we’ve all crossed at least a 1000 miles of ocean to get here.

Calling Cards, Character Boat & Mt Pico beyond

Not that we’re alone.  Horta has an impressive visitor’s list including Sir Walter Raleigh, who in 1597 burnt the port to the ground; Captain Cook (yes, our Captain Cook) in 1775 with less aggressive intentions; Joshua Slocum, famous single-handed sailor in 1895 and Charles Lindenburg on his transatlantic (sea plane) flight in 1933.  There are many others who in more recent times have left their “calling cards” on the harbour sea walls.  We find Brindabella, Ragamuffin and a few other Aussies amongst the hoards of Europeans, especially those seafaring Viking descendants!

The Port offers us everything we could need.  The Cap’n frequents accommodating MAYS to get “a few bits of chandlery” and sets us up with a transformer so that we can connect to the 220v system.  A large supermarket sits a short walk away and plenty of nice cafes and restaurants line the old town.  We’re tempted to try them all! 

Exploring the Old Port, Horta

When chores are all done (8 loads of washing included – still there’s a nice little bar outside to sit and have a wine or two while you wait!!) we explore the island by local bus.  The round island bus takes about 2 hours and we see impressive natural arches cut into a rugged coastline, a sparse ash desert left by the 1958 eruption of Volcao dos Capelinhos on the western tip and cute traditional cottages; whitewashed, roofed with terracotta tiles and surrounded by well tended gardens.  Happy cows graze in terraced fields, although we wonder how they don’t fall over the edge - the island is ringed by jagged basalt cliffs and we see few fences, just hydrangea or cane hedges.

Fort of Santa Cruz 16th C

Exploring the town further we visit the Horta Museum, housed in a beautiful Jesuit College.  The collection though small, is impressive especially the fig pith carvings of Euclides Rosa.  A traditional long black cloak and hood (18^th c) contrasts with sparse modern paintings by Gina Frazao.  Next door, the Church of Sao Salvador (1680) is resplendent in carved and gilded timber panels, religious statuary, and oil paintings; the interior further enriched with silver and ivory. Famous blue tiled panels (azulejos) add a local note to the glitz.  It is now easy to understand historic influences on architect Gaudi and how he came to design his famously decorative masterpieces. (Yes, yes, I know he’s Spanish….).  It’s all in the blood, you see. 

Don't disturb me, I'm very busy!
Note Paul Theroux's "Pillers of Hercules", essential ready in prep for the Med!!

All this Grand Touring brings on a thirst for a Sagres or two and we saunter with locals along the town seawall in the late afternoon to find a tempting watering hole.  Porto Pim looks nice and we chat with a friendly Dutch couple who moved here more than 10 years ago.  Why ever not?  Perhaps we should go.  In just another day or so.  Hmmm, maybe….

From:	Flores, Porto Das Lajes	To:	Faial, Horta
Lat/Long:	39:22.7630N  31:10.0490W	Lat/Long:	38:32.0090N  28:37.5160W
Date/Time:	22/8/11: 1000	Date/Time:	23/8/11: 1425
Time Taken:	135nm (30.5hrs) (this trip)
Distance:	3763nm (659hrs) (this year)	Dist Total	9135nm (since 2008)
Weather:	W turning WNW 10-15kts G20; seas 4-5’; a few overnight showers
Fastest Speed:	Poled out most of trip for a great run down to Horta; 6kts; danced with golfinhos (Atlantic spotted dolphins); sadly no baleias (whales) seen