Picnicking Pigs

Marmaris, Turkey

View of old quarter & fort from Marmaris fuel dock

Marmaris, like Fethiye, was destroyed in a 1958 earthquake, so little remains of ancient Physkos and only a modest portion of the old Ottoman city exists (a medieval fort and its quaint old quarter, reminiscent of Chefchaouen, Morrocco).  Tourism has taken its toll, and like most of the coastline we have explored so far, restaurants and deck chairs cover the best beaches whilst remote bays are cluttered with gulets, tour boats or charter fleets.  Marmaris also offers a safe cruise ship port and we had seen as many as two arrive in one day to unload passengers for a “Turkish Resort Experience”.  Sadly, the local bazaar is boring (though big) and the Ottoman Fort (built by Suleiman for his attack on Rhodes in 1522) plus the in-situ museum, was closed.  Marmaris is hardly a historical lightweight however as it was also used by Lord Nelson to coordinate his fleet for an attack on the French (Abukir, 1798). 

Our anchorage away from the centre of town

Otherwise our anchorage has been interesting; today it's models posing on the beach, yesterday it was Porky, the picnicking pig (actually a feral boar that quite scattered the late stayers) and one or two exceedingly crazy turtles.  Madness extends to the Caylak Firtinasi (or Kite Gale*) which finally caught up with us – two days of battering ram waves across the bay – predicted as long ago as the Egyptian Coptics put together an Almanac of Gales that synthesises with the Turkish Storm Tables.  Today it’s finally easing and we have great hopes of getting some chores done pre-haul out at Marmaris Yacht Marine, boatyard of choice.  Finally a decision’s been made! 

Happy as a pig in mud (well, picnic leftovers actually)..

Yes, that’s right…we’re hauling out early with a plan to travel (sans sail boat) to see a little more of Turkey, leaving a week to explore Istanbul.   So, it’s time to bid WJ3 a fond farewell in her new home and for us to start planning next year’s explorations of the Med….all around the %$#@*!! Meltemi. 

WJ3 dwarfed by this huge travel lift - normally used for superyachts
We can always pretend

Don’t tune out however, as we hope to post up our travels in Turkey as we explore further….all things being equal!)

* Although we rocked wildly inside Marmaris Limani, we've since been told winds outside reached 45kts G50. 

Sunset over the yard - finally some cloud action!

Tomb Raiders

Marmaris to Fethiye, Turkey: Lycian Coast

View over Fethiye

After making arrangements with Marmaris Yacht Marin, we had a few spare days and decided to spend them idly in the Fethiye area.  Off we sailed (south) with a rather decent following breeze of 10-15 kts.  It was a lovely sunny day, as this season had mostly been.  However, poor WJ3 is looking dishevelled reminding us that we’d not seen a drop of rain since the UK (early May).  Despite this, the Lycian coast is green and wildly remote.  Many of the anchorages we spotted were quite idyllic; deep clear water and pine forest right down to the water’s edge. 

Great day for a sail....downwind - perhaps we should upgrade to WJ4?

Aside from the armada of charterers cruising down this coast with us, we happened upon a submarine that had to use all its stealth and cunning to manoeuvre through our fleet and out to sea.  The sight of this modern “stealth machine” made us picture battleships of old under full sail and the impressive sight they must have been. 

Rock cut Tomb of Amyntas, (350 BC)...amazing!

We decided to visit Fethiye first as it promised a few interesting opportunities to get up close with the remains of Telmessus, the Lycian Federation’s principle port.  (Xanthos, the capital is located to the south.)  The Lycians were an indigenous race with a somewhat sobering reputation for their skill in battle and seamanship.  They had a penchant for carving tombs out of solid cliff faces as well, which we couldn’t help but notice sailing into Fethiye; the Tomb of Amyntas (350 BC) set high above the town glints dramatically in the afternoon sun.

Next day, with walking shoes on, we scrambled up into the steep area behind town to visit the tombs.  We could access only one, but had a good view of many others chipped out of the surrounding cliff face.  There is also a fantastic view back across the town, the resort sprawl and the entire bay.  On the way down, we found a couple of small tortoises who were obviously in charge of keeping the “lawns” mowed.  They must be looking forward to a bit of rain as well!

The town has been build around old water cisterns 
(Ottoman period) like this one

Further along and also above town is a medieval fort (Knights of St John), now a dusty, unrestored ruin.  Despite encouragement from its keeper, we skipped this pleasure on such a hot day.  It is certain that the fort was built over earlier fortifications perhaps from Telmessus times.  One site that is being given an overhaul (restoration dollars) is the ancient (Roman) theatre.  Located right in town between the port area and what remains of the old Ottoman city (Paspatur), it will soon have a new life as an entertainment venue.  

Some of the Museum's outdoor exhibits

Back in town, we headed for Fethiye’s museum, quite a little gem.  The exhibits are well cared for, have succinct explanations (including English translations) and are ordered in logical sequence.  It is relatively easy then for time-poor visitors to get a feel for how Telmessus developed with each new “wave” of settlers.  Out in the well cared for grounds, is an assemblage of sarcophagi, essentially all that remains, other than the rock tombs, of ancient Telmessus.  

A piece from Roman times - very beautiful

The market area made pleasant strolling although the hamam (a 16^th c bathhouse) attendant couldn’t talk the Cap’n into submitting his body.  (The Cap’n still has nightmares from his Moroccan hamam experience at the hands of the Berber Bear!).  Whilst we didn’t buy souvenirs or carpets (tempting!) we did stop to eat at Megri.  We shared a traditional lamb dish cooked in a clay pot (& cracked open at our table) with the best flat breads (hot from the oven) we’d eaten so far. 

Our decision to leave Fethiye came earlier than we planned.  For unknown reasons, we were the anchored sail boat chosen to move (at 7.30am) so that the Coast Guard could manoeuvre into a nearby S&R dock.  We understood it was an emergency situation but as always, when you need to act with haste (especially with a large CG vessel bearing down on you), every link in 200 feet of chain seemed congested with slime & mud.  Anchor woman bent to the task of spraying down the chain and anchor; however, WJ3 (and she) quickly became a muddy mess.  So then it seemed appropriate to head for Gocek, up-market village and bay thick with the yachtie set.  After negotiating our way into the designated anchorage area, we decided it wasn’t for us and leaving a muddy trail behind, headed out for Skopea Limani to search for that perfect anchorage .

Wild topiary birds in Fethiye's water-side park

We settled on Boynuz Buku, a mini-fiord with steep sides, lots of pines and deep waters.  We found a cosy spot and med-moored.  The anchor dropped in over 100 feet just 3 boat-lengths from shore and our stern positioned close to the cliff; so close in fact, we thought we were sheltering under large pine trees.  It was rather warm so this time Cap’n Courageous leapt in and obligingly swam ashore with our long line.  Later in the day this popular spot filled up, taking the edge off its attractiveness. 

Fethiye Town Dock - with old Fort (under the big flag) with caves behind;
rock tombs (to the left) but not clearly visible 

We decided to move on rather than spend the night in Boynuz Buku.  The Cap’n noticed strong winds were forecast in the days ahead, and as we had to travel north (against the prevailing winds), decided it was time to make a move now.  So we did.  At night in weaker winds…or so we thought.  At one time we were bashing into 20 knots or more trying to make headway.  GS having come down with the flu, made for a bunk and slept the entire 8 hours of the trip, waking in time to set the anchor in Marmaris Limani.  A cunning plan indeed…..

From: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.566N 28:18.830E Date/Time: 9/09/13: 0930

To: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.543N 28:18.898E Date/Time: 13/09/13: 1330
Time Taken: 115nm (19.5hrs) Distance (this year): 2509nm (408hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13334nm   Weather: NW  10-20kts;
Fastest Speed: 5.9kts; under motor & limited sail

Downwind Guide to Docking

Bodrum to Marmaris, Turkey: The Carian Coast

With some reluctance (& substantially lighter wallets) we left Bodrum to begin our boatyard inspection.  Having learned from experience, we’d already made a booking at a yard but wanted to see what else was on offer in the area.  So, with a list of marinas and yards in hand – and several weeks left to kill – we set off for a slow, Meltemi-driven cruise south. 

Gulet under sail in Kuruca Buku

We rounded Cape Krio, hopeful of finding a place to explore the ruins of Knidos.  The harbour, though well protected, is just short of swimming pool size and when crammed with large gulets, day-tripper boats and high-season sailboats, does not offer an inviting option.  Knidos was a prosperous 4^th century BC Doric (Greek) trading port.  It was famed for its statue of naked Aphrodite (by Praxiteles) and local residents Eudoxos, (an astronomer & mathematician) and Sostratus (architect of the famous Pharos lighthouse of Alexandria – another of the wonders of the Ancient World).  

The enormous Datca Lion - I presume this has come from Old Knidos

Further on, the village of Datca (site of Old Knidos - before they moved for reasons of improved commerce) has a small resort area with a pleasant harbour and anchorage.  Having said that, we had to re-anchor one night as the holding was not brilliant.  We were buffeted by gusts sweeping down the hills behind town.  Later, we strolled the town quay, checking it as a docking option.  With its accompanying tussle of restaurants, we made a conscious decision never to dock WJ3 in amongst this kind of very public frenzy.  Self-preservation means anchoring out and taking Bruce to the town dock where he can withstand much more "pushing about" by less than careful tour boat operators and charter boaters.

Darling! Daarling...can you cope with winching in this line?

The Turkish Carian Coast offers lots of nooks and crannies, all within close range making it easy to find a decent anchorage.  Where depths preclude anchoring alone, a rock or well-placed tree onshore is handy to tie a long line back to the boat.  This technique is called “med-mooring” and like so many processes of boat-life required vital decisions to be made, starting with who was going to swim to shore with the line! “No swimming for me”, declared GS.  “Nor am I steering the boat so close to shore”….  Yes, the old impasse!  GS then spent hours looking through the Pilot for suitable anchorages and the Cap’n considered the value of replacing his current crew.

 

Despite the stalemate and not yet having text-book procedures in place, we decided to give med mooring a shot at Kuruca Buku.  On our second attempt, with the anchor set out and with the Cap’n diplomatically in Bruce (rather than swimming), we settled in for a comfortable few days tucked up nicely into this pretty pine tree covered bay.  Here we finally met up with some cruising folks, Miranna from Perth and Canadians, Doug & Irene; we had quite a laugh.  We had missed sailing in company since the KIPS left us in Mallorca. 

Extraordinary landscapes along the coast

Bencik was set for our next stop.  It’s a delightful, green oasis after the red rocky slopes of the Datca promontory, however, available spots were quickly filled by a vast tourist fleet.  So we made for Keci Buku, anchoring off a tiny island with Byzantine fort ruins and a population of cute little rabbits.  Nearby Marti Marina offered hauling but at a price to match its well-heeled patrons; this area it seems is home to several “exclusive” resorts.  Not for us in our current crew uniform of ancient undies and tatty singlets.

WJ3 at anchor in Keci Buku

Bunnies & Byzantine Forts - we've seen it all

After bidding farewell to the bunnies, we took a course through a fiord-like channel between small islands on the southern coast.  At the passage end, we met with huge Meltimi driven seas and a rocky cape.  Squeezing round the corner we turned for Bozburun, and with the wind now following, it was actually a rather pleasant sail (that means no motor, folks!).  We found an anchorage close to the village and had a herd of goats as our nearest, noisiest, on-shore neighbours.  Once a sponge fishing centre, Bozburun, in its current guise hosts modest tourist facilities and a gulet manufacturing industry.   With friendly locals, a great little supermarket and some nice restaurants, we hunkered down for a few days.

Bozburun - again we anchored well away from the town dock

Sadly the wind was up again for our departure so we missed seeing the “spectacular” clear & shallow waters of the Kizil Adasi passage.   Still, in pioneering spirit, we made it through without mishap.  Then WJ3 was Marmaris bound, into yet more swell and winds gusting 30 knots.  Hi ho to the life of a sailor!

Gulet under construction

 
From: Bodrum, Turkey Lat/Long: 37:02.091N 27:25.503E Date/Time: 20/08/13: 1220
To: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.566N 28:18.830E Date/Time: 4/09/13: 1540
Time Taken: 140.5nm (29hrs) Distance (this year): 2394nm (388.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13219nm   Weather: NNW  15-20kts; G30kts
Fastest Speed: 6.6kts;