Rock Hounds

Bodrum, Turkey

With time to spare, we organised a little adventure or two to fill our busy days.  Bodrum was once Halikarnassos ruled by wealthy satrap, Mausolus (376–353BC). He also commanded a fleet considered to be the most powerful in the Aegean.  Mausolus’ tomb, the Mausoleum, was one of the wonders of the ancient world and we were keen to see what was left of it.   Bodrum was also the birthplace of Herodotus (485-425BC), the first person to document a history of both his surrounding locale and perhaps more importantly, the known world.  

This layer of rubble is all that is left of the once incredible Mausoleum

Our first stop, located within easy walking distance was the Mausoleum site.  After Mausolus’ death, his sister/wife undertook completion of the planned tomb, calling on greats of the ancient artistic world to assist.  The wondrous marble tomb is said to have been standing when Alexander landed here, then rediscovered (1522) by the Knights Hospitaller from Rhodes when they captured the strategically located city.  An account of the day has the Knights breaking down the tomb for lime and marble slabs to shore up their castle whilst pirates plundered its treasure. Others believe it succumbed to earthquake damage well before this time.  British excavated in 1857, followed by the Danish in 1970-77.  Work continues albeit slowly; enough to piece together drawings and models of Halikarnassos during Mausolus’ time.

The modest chapel in the Castle grounds

English Tower with Henry IV's coat of arms & lion

The Crusader Castle of St Peter was (possibly) built over the ruins of Mausolus’ Palace and secret harbour.  It now hosts the Underwater Archaeology Museum in various rooms, including the castle kitchen and chapel.  We had an interesting afternoon potting about investigating finds from wrecks dating back to the Bronze Age – the earliest shipwreck ever found.  This was the busiest of Bodrum’s historic sites. The general crowd it seems is far more interested in shopping, discos and eating. We visited all the exhibits housed in air-conditioned rooms.

The Museum houses an amazing collection of amphorae

This ram's head drinking cup was found
in the Bronze Age wreck

The English Tower, built during the reign of Henry IV, is decorated in medieval style with standards, Turkish chain mail and heads of wild animals.  The dungeons, with various tools of the torture trade, were not open.  Nearby, we did see the contents of Queen Ada’s tomb (360-325BC), discovered as recently as 1989.   Ada, a Carian Princess who lived to the ripe old age of 40, was buried with some wonderful gold pieces, including a spectacular wreath of myrtle leaves. 

Ancient Theatre earning its keep (& nice view over Bodrum)

Away from the Castle, yet in full view from the marina, sits the Ancient Theatre, cut high into the rocky hillside.  We taxied up late one afternoon to find the site busy with preparations for a concert.  We asked permission to look at the ruins and were lucky to be admitted.  Although we’d seen tourist busses parked out front, the site appeared to be otherwise fenced off.  As to the theatre’s date of origin, no one seems sure, except that it existed when ancient Halikarnassos was a grand and powerful city. 

Let me be your guide for today...

Our tourist map also highlighted the Mars Temple, so we stopped on our way back from the Ancient Theatre.  This we think is one of those isolated areas awaiting an excavation team and funding.  Right now, it appears to be a few column sections and marble blocks scattered in a field with car bits, boat remains and a shepherd’s hut or two.  We did not bother therefore, locating other ancient ruins listed on our map - Myndos Gate, the Ottoman Tower or indeed the Windmill Towers.

Unusual to see a Sphinx in male form

The Cap’n managed to get even by organising a boatyard tour (by dolmus, a local bus, to Icmeler) and chandlery hop – all on the hottest day yet.  After wandering dusty industrial sites and back alleys behind the bus station (otogar) full of car repair and metalwork yards (all to find boat bits), we bussed on even further out along the Ortakent road to West Marine.  Joy of joys, it was air-conditioned!

Dock Slumming

Bodrum, Turkey

Bodrum's twin bays divided by the castle.  You can see the gulets 
(by their masts) lining the town dock in the foreground

Having reached our destination, we were in the mood for some marina slumming – a highly unlikely occupation in Bodrum.  “A” Dock was full to the brim of magazine worthy hot water boats (rarely seen in our home waters) whilst “B” & “C” were home to a prestigious fleet of charter sailboats, traditional timber gulets and “smaller” hot water boats.  Naturally all came with assorted staff, including chefs & nannies (for children and small, fluffy dogs).  Somehow we were tolerated – possibly because of our differences.  To get off WJ3, we had to climb (athletically) over the bow fitting, balance on the anchor then step onto a flight of ladder-like steps to reach the dock.  Then there was the matter of the 300 metre dash to the loo.  And of course, we never wore white, designer swimmers or matching uniforms.  (We slummed in our undies too…only on deck in 38°C heat.  Sure hope the boys & our parents aren’t reading this!)

This is the Bodrum Marina with assorted larger craft anchored outside

We did learn one thing though; foreign flagged vessels aren’t what they seem.  We had waved madly at Aussies, or so we thought.  They didn’t wave back.  Appears that most are charter fleet operated vessels registered overseas, largely from USA and Germany.  We know this now because these boats are decked head to toe with bow bunnies, water toys and teak patio settings.  Not serious boater stuff – spare anchors, jerry cans, fenders, and solar panels – umm, I could go on and on…..

Cap'n Bonds does a little electrical work

Bodrum is divided by two natural harbours.  The marina shares space with an equally busy town dock crammed full of day tripping gulets and ferries; the odd fishing boat, sponge diver or hardy visitor taking a risk to find space in this hot, high season.  We learned a lot about med mooring watching these lumbering tourist craft jostle into tiny spaces each day.   This part of town mostly hosts wall to wall restaurants and nightclubs along its tree sheltered length; it is the quieter, more reserved side.  The eastern bay, home to a crowded tourist area, boasts several bump & grind discos, both on and off-shore.  Coloured search lights stab at the night sky and music pumps & throbs away from 9.30pm.  It continues until at least 3.30am (without respite).  Unfortunately, we left our Abba inspired disco gear at home this year, so couldn’t have made it into the chic Halikarnas Club - even if our cruising budget had allowed it!  Well, maybe next year.

Heading out of the Bodrum Marina.  Some graffiti passes muster 

Turkish Devocean

Bodrum, Turkey

We spent a few tranquil nights on the hook in a more-or-less pristine O. Vathi on Pserimos, intent on recovering.  GS dreamed WJ3 was up on the hard somewhere, safe from the dreaded Meltemi.  However, it was not to be - time to check out!  We had 2 more days left on our Schengen clock.  So, after a dream sail downwind to Kos, we checked out, and bid Greece farewell, vowing to find better times to sail through this amazing sea of islands.  We needed to attend to a burgeoning list of “must see sites”….

O. Vathi hideaway on Pserimos

We made directly for Bodrum, on Turkey’s south Aegean coast and anchored for the night in front of an imposing crusader castle.  The next day, and despite it being peak season, our trusty Cap’n managed to persuade the marina to give us a berth for a few nights.  (His diplomatic skills having been somewhat tested after recently taking on Greek internet providers, Cosmote. Avoid them!)  

So here we are squashed into the marina, WJ3 sharing space with a bevy of behemoths, both sail and motor, on Dock B. We hid from daytime temperatures reaching 38°C but are otherwise enjoying the very cosmopolitan life of an active Turkish holiday resort (more on that later).  Close your eyes and you could be in Spain; were it not for the melodic call to prayer ringing out over the hills….

At anchor, with many others, off the Crusader Castle, Bodrum

 

From:  Pserimos, Greece Lat/Long: 36:56.165N 27:09.179E Date/Time: 12/08/13: 1250

To: Bodrum, Turkey Lat/Long: 37:02.095N 27:25.491E Date/Time: 12/08/13: 1750
Time Taken: 19.5nm (3.5hrs) Distance (this year): 2253.5nm (359.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13078.5nm   Weather: NNW  12-15kts;
Fastest Speed: 6.5kts;

Myths 'n Other Things

Paros, Greece

We’ve all seen them haven’t we?  Those glossy photos about sailing in Greece – perfect visibility, warm days, balmy nights and calm, deep blue waters.  This is our version of Greek Island cruising.

View over our anchorage in Pylos

Pylos was a wonderful introduction.  We were full of hope.  As we worked our way east, we were gently introduced to the foibles of weather systems in this area.  Hmmm…  Rounding Cape Maleas was a dream - early in the morning!  Then we met the Meltemi – head on.  Gentle in the early morning, building to something fierce by mid-day, dying in the evening.  In some places, replaced by nightly & often, not-so-gentle, katabatic winds. Anchoring was always a weather gamble.

Octopus Salad on the menu in Ermioni

Our float plan fell apart, several times.  We decided to make north; the latest scheme being to run with the winds behind us as we crossed the Aegean Islands to Turkey.  We hugged, full of hope, to the Peloponnese Peninsular and ended up, for respite, in Porto Kheli.   Next stop, Ermioni was unsettled.  Battered by land breezes during the day (to 30kts) and a rough swell at night (not to mention an “occupation” by a French Fleet and Sail Med Rally – full of 20-35 sweet young things), we stayed on only to catch the hydrofoil to Idra (Hydra) for a day trip.

Idra (four-legged taxis & blinding white houses)

The plan had been to leave Ermioni and sashay our way over to Kithnos, perhaps further. Not so! Our cantankerous Meltemi found us; on the nose again.  Our selected anchorage had more in common with a washing machine, so we rounded the cape and made for Poros instead.  Ah, Poros – home to at least 200 boats, so it had to be a weather escape.  It was, and we recouped over a quiet beer at a waterfront taverna. 

Delightful Poros

Full of confidence, we decided to make a run for Siros.  That lasted 10 minutes…  The Meltemi was furious and eventually GS begged for mercy (a real bucket day it was too!).  Our trusty skipper took us into Kithnos for shelter where we proceeded (twice) to give a doubtful display of anchoring in a rocky cove.  Our trusty anchor winch is still not talking to us…  Further in, by a sandy beach, we at last set the anchor.  Over dinner we hatched yet another plan to travel in the quiet of the night (read: in NO wind).  That was fine whilst we were in the lee (shelter) of the island.  Between rough conditions and vast numbers of other shipping afloat, our Brave Cap’n, stood watch all night.  So, here we are in Paros, recuperating and preparing for another night (or two) before we reach Turkey.

Our neighbours in Paros. They didn't wave as they flew by

Let’s hope things improve, otherwise that large cruise ship at anchor with us here in the bay might just have another passenger or two.  So, anyone contemplating a little Greek sojourn with us had better think again.  Certainly never agree to July or August…..  

Monastery in what was once a secluded location - not now!

PS. Conditions did not improve.  The Cap'n made yet another overnight solo sail all the way through to Pserimos, whilst GS continued to heave ho below decks - despite the Meltemi easing somewhat as we made east.  The Cyclades Islands (obviously named after summer’s cyclonic conditions) provided us with choppy seas, a short, steep swell and confused wind patterns.  Never again… ;-)

From:  Porto Kheli, Greece Lat/Long: 37:19.409N 23:08.975E Date/Time: 4/08/13: 0830

To: Pserimos, Greece Lat/Long: 36:56.165N 27:09.179E Date/Time: 10/08/13: 1710
Time Taken: 262.5nm (40hrs) Distance (this year): 2234nm (356hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13059nm   Weather: NE to NW  15-25kts; G to 30kts
Fastest Speed: 7.5kts; a bumpy, rollicking ride

Meltemi Moments

Peloponnese Peninsular, Greece

Nice evening view over the Kalamata Marina from Yachting Café

Having extracted ourselves from hedonistic marina life, we ambled down the Mani coast, one the fingers of land that make up the Peloponnese Peninsular.  There is no doubt that the scenery is dramatic; GS snapping away at every rock or mountain that made a promising picture. (Warning to all who suffer our slide show overkill, this year is likely to produce yet another one.) 

Punting through the Caves of Diros

We made the Caves of Diros (Pyrgos Dhirou) by lunchtime and decided, given both the Guide & Pilot’s glowing reviews, we would stop for the experience.  By 2.30pm we had walked and punted our way through 1500m of underground waterways and caves brimming with ceilings of frosted stalactites – with obligatory commentary in Greek….  We were permitted to walk through some areas of these truly memorable caves, lingering at the exit, if only to maximise time in natural air-conditioned comfort.   In some of the caves, archaeologists had found evidence of prehistoric settlement.  We could only imagine how surreal these caves must have been to them, invoking mystery and magic.  Is it any wonder that nearby Cape Tainaron is home of the mythical Gates of Hades?  And of course, where driven muscle man, Hercules captured Cerberus, to complete his twelfth and final labour!

WJ3 on the hook (behind the fishing fleet) Diros Caves

With a nasty swell coming into Caves bay we decided to round Cape Tainaron instead to seek shelter in a well-protected and cute Porto Kayio, meaning Bay of Quails.  I’m not so sure that any self-respecting quail would live in these strange, sparse mountains but it seems that plenty of brothers do.  From their perch high up, they must only wonder at the worldly goings on in the four modest beach-side tavernas lining the cove.  And laugh, as the yachts at anchor are pelted all night long by katabatic winds sweeping down from the mountains.

Porto Kayio (Quail Bay)

Our next stop was Elafonissos, an isolated island with abundant clear turquoise waters and very little sea life.  This did not stop an influx of visitors, winnebagos and seasonal resorts.  It’s high season after all!  An overnight stop here put us well up with the ways of the Meltemi too, a wind system something ordinary tourists don’t have to worry about.  We were up bright and early after one of us didn’t sleep well, to round fearsome Cape Maleas, whose reputation even Ulysses feared.  (Well, it did blow him off course for some ten years!).  We rounded it in complete calm, waving at the brothers up high in their secluded monastery and annoying local fishermen by going too close to their traps. 

Do you think the Brothers saw us waving?

Our destination was the rocky fortress of Monemvasia, a Gibraltar-like natural fortress built by the Byzantines in 6^th c.  We had great plans of climbing up to Ayia Sofia with its reputed magnificent views over the countryside and Aegean waters.  Sadly, GS had taken the fast way into the anchor locker, and in doing so had scraped a shin and twisted her ankle.  Walking was not on the agenda, so Monemvasia was added to the growing “later list”.   

Monemvasia

We reflected on the mysteries of Greek weather systems, as allusive as mythological gods, whilst holed-up in another small bay, firstly hiding from the Meltemi and then setting up the riding sail (to prevent swinging on anchor) to counter forceful katabatic blasts. All from different directions!   Little wonder then, we set off in the early morning calm for better shelter (and provisioning) at Porto Kheli (or Heli or Helios…  There are at least 3 or more ways of spelling Greek names – bear with us.).

This is water 20 feet deep (with various watery pug marks)
looking down from the back of WJ3 at Elafonissos

 

From:  Kalamata, Greece Lat/Long: 37:01.446N 22:06.327E Date/Time: 29/07/13: 0815

To: Porto Kheli, Greece Lat/Long: 37:19.409N 23:08.975E Date/Time: 1/08/13: 1400
Time Taken: 153.5nm (27hrs) Distance (this year): 1971.5nm (316hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 12796.5nm   Weather: NE (day); SW perhaps (at night) 
Fastest Speed: 7.5kts;