Aeolian Coasting

Ayvalik, Turkey

We know from our time travelling through Sicily that Aeolus was god of the winds.  He finally caught up with us in Kusadasi as we slogged north-west for 9 hours, finally resting at the head of an isolated bay, surrounded, of course, by fields of monster wind generators.   

Mersin anchorage - more sheltered than it looks

Eski Foca - a bit too crowded to feel comfortable anchoring here

From there, we crept northwards past Cesme on Turkey’s most western point into a guaranteed wind funnel between it and nearby Chios Island (Greece) before finally setting sail across to Eski Foca.  Eski means “old”, and like just about every nook and cranny along this coast, it is the site of an ancient settlement or harbour.  The bones of the old settlement however have long been buried under new resorts, formal-fronted military academies and buildings that will probably not last the centuries. The town appeared to be a nice low-key resort but barking dogs, pounding disco music and loud voices carrying over the still night did not entice us to stay long.  A colony of monk seals, said to inhabit nearby islands, must have been of the same opinion.

Badlemi Limani, remote and peaceful

Happily we discovered Bademli, a lovely setting with sparkling turquoise water over white sand that made us think fondly of the Caribbean - except for the surrounding acres of ancient olive groves!  Here, on anchor, we safely hid for a few days from strong winds exploring surrounding islands and greasy hot springs in Bruce.   For the first time in ages we managed a snorkel in relatively clear waters, finding a few jittery fish and lots of spikey sea urchins.  We were joined in our quiet reverie firstly by Aussies “Rafaela” and then “Common Sense” with whom we’ve been playing tag along the coast. 

 

Bathing Beauties.  Clear waters and hot springs

In favourable breezes, we made for Ayvalik.  The area contrasts sharply with Turkey’s rugged south coast; an interesting collection of pine-clad islands offers a narrow channel, the Fairway, into Ayvalik Lake, an almost totally landlocked bay.  Deep within, we have on offer a range of sheltered, if not shallow anchorages from which to plan our assault on Greece.  We caught up again with Carol & Terry (Common Sense) in Camlik Koyu.  We shared stories, had a few laughs and discovered that we’d been playing tag since our time in the US.  “Ah, remember squeezing into Jackson Creek?”  It was like “old home” week.  Great fun!

Unusual waterfront mansion from the times of Sultans & Harems perhaps?

From: Kusadasi, Turkey Lat/Long: 37:52.255N 27:15.760E Date/Time: 20/06/14: 0925
To: Ayverlik, Turkey Lat/Long: 39:17.434N 26:39.884E Date/Time: 25/06/14: 1230
Time Taken: 154.5nm (27hrs) Distance (this year): 339nm (60hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13672nm   Weather: WNW-NW-NE 10-20kts;
Fastest Speed: 5.9kts; under motor with an occasional sail just to remember how to do it

Rock Hopper's PMD

Kusadasi, Turkey

"We'll all be rooned," said Hanrahan...

Our purpose for taking a marina berth (aside from fuel, water and long, hot showers - you know, the essentials) was to visit a trio of lesser known but none-the-less important archaeological sites - Priene, Miletus and Didyma.  Our Lonely Planet guide book reminds us; many of the most famous Hellenistic cities are not in Greece, but in Turkey. 

We are currently sailing the Ionian Coast, the ancient Gulf of Latmos now silted beyond recognition by the winding River Menderes (hence “meander”). 

 

The Ionians who settled here established a kingdom that was to give rise to a most influential civilisation.  This was where Homer, amongst others of this ilk, came from.

Temple of Athena - goddess of war, seems appropriate really, on many levels

Oh look, it's Hermes!

Having already visited the impressive Ephesus, we were pleased to find Priene in good shape (relatively speaking).  It is picturesquely situated in a glade of pines with Mt Mykale (of solid marble) looming overhead.   Thankfully, Menderes had done its worst by the time the Romans came so Priene’s value as a city of importance had declined.  As such, we walked well planned and cobbled streets of a Hellenistic city with its intimate theatre, city council meeting place, gymnasium, stadium and temples.  Some restoration work had been completed on the main temple, Temple of Athena and we were suitably impressed by the size of those huge, white marble columns.  One can only imagine how breathtaking a site this must have been to visitors arriving by boat across the turquoise waters of the Latmos Gulf.

Nearby Miletus was the richest and most powerful of the Ionian cities.  It was the League’s principle port, a centre of government and commerce.  It was “improved” by the Romans and then destroyed by the Persians.  The River Menderes had its own agenda and by 700 AD, the port was heavily silted and islands, mere bumps on a flood plain.  The site remained occupied – farming replaced fishing – and it wasn’t until the 1950’s when a severe earthquake destroyed the village that people were encouraged to move on.

Great Theatre, Miletus

The theatre in Miletus is in good condition and it is easy to see, rather like looking at layers of sediment, how individual civilizations had built it up over time.  The Great Theatre, seating 15000, has Ionian underpinnings.  On that, the Romans added several floors and finally, a once great Byzantine castle is now a crumbling crown.  We had time to explore the Baths of Faustina, a huge complex that attests to Miletus’ importance and Emperor Marcus Aurelius’ influence.  A small army of slaves would have been essential to keeping the Baths at their best.  Beyond the Baths we found a beautifully restored mosque dated to 1404 and a Seljuk caravanserai.

Exquisite carving, Temple of Apollo in Didyma

Earthquake shattered column

 

Have I got that pose right yet, BCK?

After visiting sites in isolated locations, Didyma appears to have been swallowed whole by coastal resort developments.  Strangely, this seems to fit Didyma’s function – a religious sanctuary.  For over 1400 years, people came from far & wide to visit the largest (Ionic) temple in the world, the Temple of Apollo.  It was occupied by an oracle whose fame was renown; the site as important as Delphi. 

Earthquakes, Persians, conquerors, treasure hunters, land developers and others have all contributed to the decline of this once great complex.  However, it is still incredibly awe-inspiring to walk through those great chunks of marble, touch carvings of fire-breathing monsters and be glared at by the famed Medusa.

Thanks, Mate..you're a real treasure!

Travelling North

Marmaris to Kusadasi, Turkey

Leaving Marmaris

Ancient Citadel of Loryma: Bozuk Buku

Finally, since breaking free from our anchorage in Marmaris, we’ve had a dream run travelling north – so far, touch wood.  A slight breeze from the west kicked in with our departure and the many delights of this part of the world became apparent.  Our only regret is we cannot visit the numerous Dodecanese (Greek) Islands that are so, so temptingly close to the Turkish coast. (We don't want to sign in and have the Schengen clock - 3 months - tick away too early.)  Still, we march on undeterred and have snagged a few isolated and lovely anchorages despite the coast appearing to be one huge resort. 

Kizil Adasi Passage: Bozburun

Full Moon over Datca

Not quite moonlight: the bright party lights of Datca

We are currently sitting in a marina in Kusadasi, civilization close at hand with 4 vast cruise ships lining nearby docks.  This is the stop off point for visits to Ephesus, but even so, it is a popular resort area for British and Russians.  We know this for sure because the local Migros (supermarket) has bacon.  Our end of the dock could well be renamed “kangaroo corner” as we’ve bumped into Aussies on boats by the bucket load since docking.  ("Awatea" - yes, I know a Kiwi & "Apricari" with an electric motored bike that I'm now lusting after!)

Resorts & Hot Water Boats in Yalikavak

Ah, the Serenity! Paradise Bay, Kazikli Limani 

Our sights are set on Avyalik, so there’s a bit of distance yet to cover.  We have another 2 weeks before setting sail for Greece (float plan dependant on the arrival of the Meltemi and hindered by Schengen visa time).   Never enough time to get our heads around the history and culture of this fascinating corner of the world!   Perhaps just enough for one last visit to a carpet shop though…

Byzantine Forts & Floating Cities: Kusadasi

From: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.449N 28:18.816E Date/Time: 10/06/14: 0620
To: Kusadasi, Turkey Lat/Long: 37:52.255N 27:15.760E Date/Time: 17/06/14: 1215
Time Taken: 184nm (33hrs) Distance (this year): 184.5nm (33hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13517.5nm   Weather: WSW 8-10kts;
Fastest Speed: Varied from motoring in dead calm to some very pleasant sailing

Plummeting Gulls Gale

Pupa Yat Anchorage, Marmaris, Turkey

I’ve decided to name this gale after the giant gulls that seem to be the only ones really enjoying themselves at this very moment.  The pilot notes that historically, a number of “regular” gales are named after birds.  So here they are swooping and soaring in gusts anywhere between 20-40 kts.   Others, gathered over an exposed sandbank, seem to be leaping and hopping in a mad crowd wave, all rather pleased with themselves.  It could be gale choreographed hi-jinks.

We, on the other hand, are happy daylight offers visibility – a necessity when anchors are dragging, boat dinghies flipping and tempers flaring.   We’re also grateful that our little discussion with the excitable Italians late last night (at 9pm) gave the Cap’n the sh*ts, providing him with incentive to move closer to shore.  Those six gulets currently hogging the shoreline (med moored) have hardly moved; WJ3 has fared only slightly worse whilst those further out in the anchorage are really copping it. 

The Cap’n is reporting in with his truth seeking binoculars on general activities and we’ve even snooped on a VHF radio call or two.  Who needs TV?  This is only our third day out and so far we’re grateful that WJ3’s basics are holding up ok.  Big Bertha (our Rochna anchor) is again being a dream girl while we spin and whirl to the tune of those nasty gusts.  Our decks are covered in fine red sand; a sure sign that Africa’s sand dunes march irrevocably toward Europe.  Meanwhile, the Italians are still giving us clandestine glances....

Waiting, waiting... for the gale to end

 From: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.173N 28:18.475E Date/Time: 2/06/14: 1600
To: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.555N 28:18.899E Date/Time: 3/06/14: 2100
Time Taken: 0.5nm (hrs) Distance (this year): 0.5nm (hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13333.5nm   Weather: Unsettled;
Fastest Speed: under motor (sails released from their bags for the season & put up out on the anchorage)

And now for some Launch Photos:

Our "backyard" views.  The Cap'n is off to find our splash time.

Firstly, we're given a dink

Then, it's the BIG lift again

A Forest of Bunny Ears

Istanbul, then on to Marmaris, Turkey

Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain 1901 only recently restored

Back to cosmopolitan Istanbul with just enough time to visit the remnants of this once Byzantine city, eastern capital of the Roman Empire and capital of the Christian world for over a thousand years.  We started with Hagia Sophia (again, GS is besotted), strolled around the Hippodrome taking in the recently restored Kaiser Wilhelm’s fountain (1901), noted that the Palace of Ibrahim Pasa (housing the Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum) was still under renovation and then took a Big Bus Tour round town to see what we’d missed. 

Afternoon crowds gather to see Hagia Sophia

After our short Istanbul stop-over we jetted back to Marmaris to the lovely Windjammer.  Of course, she’d been moved in our absence and the key was missing; not the best thing late at night!  But it all worked out in the end, and here we are at Yat Marine even closer to the field of BIG hot water boats sprouting a growing collection of bunny ears (those SAT & TV domes that look like Mickey Mouse caps). 

Inside Hagia Sophia at the balcony where the Empress
would observe formalities

We’re working at setting WJ3 up slowly, partly due to a dose of the flu (yes, both of us!) and having a little bit of work done professionally to tart her up for the coming season.  Our splash is scheduled for the 2^nd June and only yesterday it was blowing 37km per hour over Paros (in the Cyclades, mid Aegean Sea).  Yep, another bumpy ride coming up; we wondered if sitting on the hard all season in Marmaris wouldn't be so bad after all…

The Cap'n pretends he's not being watched...
Breakfast at the Ambassador Hotel in Istanbul

(For anyone interested, the WJ3 Map & Tracker is updated now and will be more current than the blog for our whereabouts.  And photos to come - we're back to internet access basics again!)

Walking in History

Gallipoli, Turkey

Night view of the Memorial at Eceabat

Our RSL Tour (a local company & no relation to the RSL in Australia), allowed us a half day at Troy and a very full day at Gallipoli.  A smart move indeed.  Having overnighted at Eceabat, our morning tour took in the south peninsular.  We stopped at a number of cemeteries and memorials, mostly French, British and Turkish before stopping at a new information centre that dramatically explained the events of the time – with 3D glasses and moving platforms too. 

The Gallipoli campaign lasted 9 months and inflicted some half million casualties.  This small area is now home to 31 war cemeteries and monuments to the Turks, British, French, Aussies and Kiwis.

Main Turkish Monument

The area between battlefields is quite amazing, which covers some 35km over its entirety.  Hasan, our guide was no lightweight in battle facts and was able to explain the events of the period in quite some detail.  Hasan also told us that Aussies & Kiwis (surprisingly) make up the majority of foreign visitors to the Battlefields area.  And yes, we were stopped for a photo op at the request of some local visitors. 

Trenches on 2nd Ridge

After lunch, we picked up those who were taking in the Australian & Kiwi Battlefields (after their 6 hour bus trip down...) and launched into the north end tour. 

Being a Saturday, the place was crowded with tourists, many locals, wanting to understand their own history and pay homage to their hero, General Ataturk.  Hasan took us to the second ridge where we saw trenches of both sides (so close) amid the pines and cemeteries and memorials to ANZAC soldiers. 

Lone Pine Memorial

ANZAC Cove to North Beach walk

Our last stop was the impressive ANZAC Cove and North Beach where we were able to walk along the stretch of coast where so many lives were lost.  The peninsular, green and studded with bright red poppies, is quite eerily beautiful.  Its strategic location however, has made it the site of many a battle over the years of man’s quest for power, wealth and control.  With such a poignant recent history though, it was quite a day.

We all snored our way back to Istanbul (another 6 hours in a bus) arriving at our hotels after midnight – exhausted but reflective and very glad to have taken the time to visit Gelibolu.

Ataturk Memorial

On the Road Again...

Fabled Troy, Turkey

Having spent some 24 hours travelling to Istanbul, what better thing to do than hop on a bus for a 6 hour ride to Eceabat (in Europe), then follow it with a short ferry ride across the Dardanelles.  We were following in the footsteps of ancient greats (King Xerxes in 481 BC, Alexander the Great, Byzantine Generals, Ottoman Sultans and of course more recently, modern waring nations); this was the place to stake your strategic claim.  Stunning Byzantine citadels on either side of this waterway attest to this.

Byzantine Fortress straddling the Dardanelles
(perhaps inspired architect Le Corbusier)

Having pondered the strategic value of controlling the Dardanelles, we continued on our journey to the site of Troy (in Asia). High on a dusty hill, this seeming pile of rocks and bits of marble tells a story that stretches some (five) thousands of years to the Bronze Ages. 

People (tourists?) had complained that there was nothing
much to see at Troy, hence this imaginative reproduction

Troy itself has had at least 9 iterations and to make sense of it all you need a guide who borders on being a Troy tragic.  Luckily for us, we did!  Burak led us on a merry dance through the various ages, all the while making jabs at Australians.  He is, you understand, in the process of mastering the art of Aussie slang; dare I say it but Turks & Aussies share the same wit.  This did not hinder the story of Troy; the myth & legend fused with truths unearthed over the years. 

Famous for finding treasure at Troy, Schliemann (in 1871), cut a swathe through various centuries to unearth this wealth.  His amateur methods were overlooked, perhaps due to his access to funds, but the fame was certainly all his.  Later during WWII his treasure disappeared to surface in a Russian Museum.  Perhaps they borrowed a previously-loved wooden horse to move the loot?

It's OK. They only sacrifice virgins here, darl!

Schliemann was looking for Homeric Troy (Troy VI), and the legendary treasure of King Priam.  It is now thought that he found treasures from Troy II. 

Now I won’t go on but suffice to say that legend and truth are mixed in fair portions and there is quite likely some truth in the existence of our hero, Ulysses.  In Homer’s “Iliad”, Troy was called Ilium and it was at this very spot that the ten year Trojan War took place. 

We know that because a giant wooden horse guards the entrance to these digs.  If that won’t fit in your handbag, souvenir sellers have a vast variety of others to choose from.  

Perhaps the best information we found about the site, with a modest selection of artefacts from all Troys (part of Frank Calvert’s collection; the actual site discoverer) was at the Istanbul Archaeological Museum.  There is still much work to do to reveal more secrets of Troy, and our lucky guide has signed up to help with a future dig.  We’ll take the easy option though and just settle back to see Eric Bana & Brad Pitt sort it all out, yet again.

This pile of rocks is thought to have once looked like the drawing below.
Just use your imagination!