Looking for Bears

Zagori, Greece

Triple Span Packhorse Bridge, Central Zagori

With WJ3 snug in Preveza Marina, we planned a trip into the northern mountains.  Our car, a bright red roller skate, had a little more determination than a Panda; thankfully, because the hills were fairly serious.  Katara Pass skims clouds at a mere 1694m and Metsovo, our turn off to Meteora, just 2300m.

Off we set with only a teensy Rough Guide map to show us the way.  It’s impossible it seems to buy road maps – in Greek let alone English - so we were off on a wing and a prayer.  Luckily we were heading for Meteora, land of mountain top monasteries, so someone must have heard us.  First planned stop however was Zagori country in the foothills of the Pindos Mountains.  We took the road to Ioannina, a winding but interesting trip passing through pretty farmlands, trout ponds perched on the edge of fast flowing rivers, shadowy glades and non-descript villages – a little worse for wear. 

Ioannina is surprisingly a large and bustling city; once the capital of Ali Pasha, now the realm of university students and expert double-parkers.  The traffic seems to flow like treacle through the frenetic activity and somehow in the confusion, we found ourselves centre stage.  The remnants of an Ottoman bazaar (with attractive silver shops!) to our left and Ali Pasha’s lump of a fort (Kastro) to the right!  All of course set with a beautiful backdrop of Lake Pamvotis and high mountains behind.  There was no time to stop however, as we had no idea what Zagori would hold for us and wanted to be in Meteora before dark.

Small Bridge with Chapel & goats

The most remarkable of the bridges we saw

Our luck held as we headed north and a faded sign pointing to the Central Zagori revealed itself in the roadside shrubbery.  Better still, to an Information Point!  Even better, it was open when we arrived!  A helpful Park Ranger gave us loads of brochures & maps and, given the time we had to drive the “country roads”, a plan to see the best we could in the time available.  We had come for the view of Vikos Gorge, villages of stone mansions set in rugged landscapes (where we should have stayed an extra night!) and the highly romantic packhorse bridges.

Triple Span hidden in the ravine
is larger than it looks

Under instruction, we set off in the direction of Koukouli & Kipi, dodging sleepy sheep dogs, to find our bridges.  Our fist was a tiny one span bridge with a small chapel to one side.  Goat bells tinkled nearby adding bucolic charm to the setting. 

These bridges, generally named after their wealthy sponsors, provided villagers a means of travel and trade with the outside world.  The landscape is so rugged, that mules were the vehicle of choice and bridges were built specifically for this traffic. Sadly, construction was a closely guarded secret held by the men who built them and the art now lost.  

Having discovered 3 bridges, we made for Monodendri Village and beyond, the Oxia lookout above Vikos Gorge.  The lookout is something of a narrow ledge, hardly room for half dozen gawkers to perch over a one way trip straight to the bowels of the earth.  We added to the pile of name stones at a little shrine hidden in the rocks nearby and quickly left before the rain set in. 

Vikos Gorge in cloud & rain

Our first "selfie" at the Gorge

Tiny shrine at the Vikos Gorge viewing point, Oxia.

Regrouping in the atmospheric Monodendri with coffee and pastries, we scouted round for a museum and monastery where the views down the Gorge from its balconies are said to be spectacular.  Signage was not good and besides, the oncoming rain made us jittery, so we headed back down to the Ioannina ring road and made for the Via Egnatia Expressway (A2). 

Stone Forest, Oxia

Having traversed some of these minor roads, one can only but appreciate the expressway.  For €2.40, at 130kph and through vast numbers of tunnels, we made short work of the mountainous terrain.  At times we felt we were digging for China, but here they say "Australia", so I guess it’s not all that bad.  The turnoff to Meteora and our village accommodation (Kastraki) meant another hour of downhill winding roads but we arrived, sense of humours intact and in time for sundowners.  Our B&B - a traditional cottage, veiled by a pink sunset at the foot of some jaw-dropping rocks!

Monodendri with view over the Vikos Gorge
(Is that the monastery we couldn't find?)

Back to Base

Preveza, Greece

The alarm clock everyone needs. Goats.
Big Daddy checked us out before he let the girls come out to play!

After our brief but interesting Albanian interlude, we spent a few quiet weeks exploring the northern Ionians, which are even nicer outside of busy August.  We found some lovely, tranquil anchorages, weathered a few decent blows (our anchor held on all occasions thankfully - there were often lots that didn’t!) and decided it was worth the effort to have slowed down to see a little more of the west coast of Greece. 

Ahhh...the serenity!  Fishing in Bruce "Jumping Fish Bay", Ormos Voltau, Igoumenitsa.

The general set of the wind is afternoon north westerlies with the occasional southerly (note: no Meltemi!).  At least once a week, we’ve weathered a storm of some sort and another must be brewing now because it’s suddenly become so hot and humid.  We’ve learned to take weather forecasts with a grain of salt deciding that we can be sure of choosing a lee shore if we med moor.  From this time, no further mention shall be made of med mooring.  It’s a useful practice, if only for preparing for divorce.

Lakka on Paxos...just like the Bahamas Banks

Walking the old town Lakka, Paxos

The islands are beautifully green, anchorages plentiful and water generally clear.  Still not much in the way of sea life near the shore though.  Whilst snorkelling, the most interesting object we’ve seen has been our anchor.  Along the mainland we found some isolated and peaceful stops.  All alarm clocks should be replaced by the tinkling of goat bells.  One small cove we christened Mullet Bay – the cheeky devils leapt with wild enthusiasm all around us.  We decided they were escapees from a nearby fish farm.  Even the Cap’n was tempted to put in a line.  Don’t worry; they’re all safe – except now they leap with contemptuous little smiles on their faces….  And the fridge is full of bait, still!

Lefkas Canal

Mainland views from Lefkas

After arriving back in Preveza and hatching our haul-out plan (my goodness is it that time of the year already!) we pushed back for another week of cruising and headed down to Lefkas and other smaller islands in the big “lake”.  The Italian cruising set in their smart sailboats had been replaced by convoys of charterers and a bevy of character boats – the real cruising fraternity.  We felt at home at last – where had they all been hiding?  A few seem to have lost their luggage on the flight over and had only their tans to keep them warm.  Well and good if you’ve got a trim six-pack (or are an Elle double) and have time for bow bunny duties.  Not so good if bending over to attend to deck chores – a bit frightening for the kiddies.  Still, life’s an education….

Early morning in what we thought was an isolated anchorage the night before. Port Leone, Kalamos

So we just looked the other way

We’re now sitting in Preveza Marina cleaning up WJ3 and getting her ready for haul out early next week.  Part of that plan includes a quick side trip to Meteora to see the mountain top monasteries (report to follow) and a little more inland Greece by car.  After that, our TWB phase begins - travelling without boat.  We’ll catch a bus to Athens, fly to Vienna then train to Budapest to join our Intrepid Eastern Europe tour.  If Count Dracula doesn’t get us, we’ll fly home from Istanbul; so a few days for a long goodbye to the exotic eastern med.  And time to find another carpet?  Oops, the Cap’n just fainted!

Old windmills (now taverna) on Kastos

Tiny disused monastery under the pines, Kalamos 

The Last Frontier

Ksamil, Albania

Sunset over Ksamil Islands (with Corfu in distance)

This peaceful view of Ksamil does not show how busy it is.
(Not quite sure what the Capt is doing.  Hugging his beloved??)

At this point in our journey north, we decided not to continue on to Montenegro or even the 70 nm to Durres.  Durres offers a major commercial port, no facilities for yachts; so rather than nervously squeeze WJ3 on a large dock between freighters and fishing boats, we decided to head back to Saranda and Greece.  Not before spending a few pleasant days anchored off Ksamil Islands, near the Butrint area!  Here we weathered a nasty southerly (35kts), dragged on our anchor twice, were surrounded daily by pedlos and curious tourists (more swimmers!) and finally, watched movies during a day of pouring rain.  WJ3 (and both of us) smelt like a wet dog in the following day’s strong, humid sunshine but at least she had a good wash down – the first since Marmaris!

Passing traffic...note grey skies

Fisherman at work

We cleared out of Saranda easily, again thanks to Agim Zholi, before heading back to Greece.  But not before learning that policemen really do carry Kalashnikovs.  (Don’t head off to the dock bathroom in the middle of the night or take a shortcut back to the boat, without making yourself known to security personnel!) 

View back to Saranda, Albania

Cruisers notes:

We were able to fill our water tanks at the dock in Saranda.  Summer restrictions did exist eg mornings from 9-12ish only with low pressure and we had competition for access to the taps with the ferries and other cruisers who only overnighted at the dock.  Agim could arrange fuel at the dock via mini-tanker and laundry services.  Having said that we were glad to have fuelled-up in Greece for no reason other than convenience.  There is a shower & toilet inside the ferry terminal but as the building was often locked (and the water heater needed 20 mins to warm up) we, like most, stayed on board.  The dock is very secure. Just ask the Cap'n...  Saranda town is walking distance with nice restaurants and well-stocked supermarkets. 

During our stay we met Captain Irene Cop, who runs Albania’s only sail charter, Sail Albania.  She has vast knowledge and practical experience of cruising the Albanian coast and keeps a great web site with notes on each port & more.  Cruiser’s Wiki and Noonsite offer more information, apart from the detailed 777 & basics in the Adriatic Pilot too.

From: Sarande, Albania Lat/Long: 39:52.263N 20:00.203E Date/Time: 20/08/14: 1300

To: Sarande, Albania Lat/Long: 39:52.278N 20:00.210E Date/Time: 5/09/14: 1500
Time Taken: 137nm (22hrs) Distance (this year): 1117.5nm (188.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 14450.5nm   Weather: Clear skies, calm seas & warm-hot
Fastest Speed: We are motoring our way around the Med – just like everyone else!

Alone in the Med…Amazing!

Orikum Marina, Vlore, Albania

Early Morning at Orikum Marina

Early next morning, we headed north along a stunning coastline in calm, settled seas, amusing ourselves with interesting facts provided by our 777 Pilot (a cruising guide):

Jale Beach - once a summer resort for politicians (well, they do work very hard and deserve some compensation) now converted to a bustling tourist resort.  Ahhh, the irony!

Llogara Pass

The Llogara Pass “divides” Greek culture from the Illyrian.  This area is also where the Adriatic and Ionian Seas separate; depths increase, currents, winds and navigation change.  Mountains are closer to the sea and the area is wild and virtually unsettled.  We are told that katabatic winds can be incredibly fierce. 

Llogara Pass (national park) was once crossed by Julius Caesar (48BC) and his army in hot pursuit of Pompey. 

The current road for the Llogara Pass was built by the Alpini (Italian Army Mountain Corps) in the 1930’s.  A mule was used to determine the position of the road – relying on natural instinct, of course.  (Is it true?  Who knows, but it makes for a terrific few hours of idle chit chat.)

 

Haxhi Aliu Cave, a natural buttressed cathedral vault.  Stunningly high and narrow, it is one of many caves that dot the coastline.  It also looks like something out of a James Bond movie.

Bunkers tastefully landscaped with prickly Agaves

Vlore Bay is littered with shipwrecks and the Karaburum Promontory is covered in concrete bunkers.  It looks as if an invasion of aliens (holding shares in concrete manufacturing companies) has set foot here.  Perhaps it’s another Bermuda-type Triangle?  There are supposed to be some 500,000 of these 2 person bunkers dotted along the coast.  Together with plantings of thorny agaves, nature's barbed wire, it’s a formidable setting with those steep, wild mountains behind.

More Brides.  It must be the month for marriages

Next stop, Orikum Marina tucked up deep in a large bay, not far from Vlore.  Like Saranda, this is a busy resort area and the marina is the only one along Albania’s coastline.   We settled in for our usual 3 nights (it’s hardly worth the effort of setting up for less!).  The marina is fairly isolated, with just a few fishermen and tourists about. 

 

Nearby is another military base, said to have the hulks of a few rotting Russian submarines.  But we didn’t go near there, being somewhat shy after Palermos…  Orikum Lake or Pasha Liman lagoon is the site of ancient Greek and Roman ruins but it is not generally open to the public.  Interestingly, Ali Pasha is said to be buried here, although similar claims are made for his citadel in Ioannina (Greece).

For those cruisers interested:  At Orikum Marina we had power, non-potable water (good to wash the boat), decent hot showers & toilet facilities and very friendly staff.   The nearest mini-marts were in Orikum village, 1-1.5km away.  Better to hire a car if you plan to travel, although the marina may assist.   It was worth a stop and there were other places of historic significance to visit nearby eg Apollonia or Berat if you have transport.  Capt Irene Cop offers touristic and port services from Orikum Marina.  Contact details on her web site Sail Albania.

Dick Tracey Saves the Day

Porto Palermos, Albania

Saranda Harbour - on a busy day

We left Saranda quite early even though we only had a few miles to cover to Palermos.  The Saranda harbour milieu was up to usual standard with ferries and hydrofoils coming and going; a small cruise ship about to dock and reckless pedlos darting between them all.  

Free of the inner harbour we started to relax – a mistake of course!  A lone distance swimmer (with a dark blue bathing cap, doh!) hadn’t noticed he was on a collision course with WJ3.  GS saw him at the last minute, swore like a trooper and quickly adjusted a course away from this suicidal idiot.  He was quite likely blinded afterwards by her red-eyed, laser stare.  

So, our conversation to Palermos thereafter, turned to considering the delights of Albanian prison foods and leniency in visiting hours for seniors.  How this swimmer missed becoming fish food in our prop, a cruise ship’s prop or under a hydrofoil’s fin is anyone’s guess.  It might have been a bit gory if a pedlo had got him though!  

Sitting Ducks?  Porto Palermos

Our trip up the coast was less eventful.  The weather was mild, seas calm with very little boat traffic, even fishing boats.  We motored in quite close to shore as the water is clear, clean and deep; the mountains overhead just seem to tumble into the seas.  

Palermos is one of the few “storm refuges” along the coast and we had our sights set on visiting Ali Pasha’s castle positioned on a small promontory in the middle of the bay.  A motor boat was leaving as we arrived and another yacht was tied to a rather formidable, if not neglected, pier.  A nice young man from the taverna took our lines and helped us settle in.  The small beach near the pier was well established, if not remote, with a variety of mobile homes, beach huts and even a café.  A few small tinnies flitted round.  It seemed like a nice place to spend a few days.

At this point of course, our day continued a pear shaped, downhill track.  We were aware that a military base was to the north…..  The Italians had not long set sail before we heard the unmistakable roar of a diesel engine.  Sure enough, the Coast Guard paid us a visit.  We were advised the pier was military property (even though the area is designated part of tourism & culture) and we were to leave now.  Had we not had engine problems, we might not have been given permission to stay.  We left very early next morning though….

Meanwhile, we had a pleasant swim, helped another couple of boats to tie alongside, took our dinner at the little restaurant up the hill (with very nice local foods) and most certainly visited Ali Pasha’s little fort.  Just on dusk, we watched the Dick Tracy team return to base with nary a glance in our direction.

 

View of the small "resort".  Most of the derelict buildings
were stuffed to the gunnels with fodder for local goats

Ali Pasha Tepelena (1740-1822), the “Lion of Yannina*” is one of local history’s curious characters who managed, under the Ottoman Sultan’s nose, to carve out an independent  territory for himself that covered most of Albania and western Greece.  At once a heroic rebel, a gifted & fearless general and an ambitious despot, he had a passionate yet brutal flair for controlling his Christian subjects yet attacking with impunity the Ottoman supporters with whom he aligned himself as necessary. 

His brutality is legendary, reinforced by writings of Lord Byron, who visited him in his “splendid court” in 1809.  The cells of Ali Pasha’s torture chambers must still ring with the screams of tormented souls.  Not that he was alone in inflicting cruel punishments – in context historically it did seem rather de rigueur.  And of course, the cruising Motley's could always recommend harbour swimming, on a busy day, as an alternate option.

Ali Pasha's main forts/castles/residences were Tepelena, Gjirokastra and Ioannina. Read more about Ali Pasha in Wiki /on the net.)

* Yannina is Ioannina in Greece