Marmaris to Fethiye, Turkey: Lycian Coast
 |
| View over Fethiye |
After making
arrangements with Marmaris Yacht Marin, we had a few spare days and decided to
spend them idly in the Fethiye area. Off
we sailed (south) with a rather decent following breeze of 10-15 kts. It was a lovely sunny day, as this season had mostly
been. However, poor WJ3 is looking dishevelled
reminding us that we’d not seen a drop of rain since the UK (early May). Despite this, the Lycian coast is green and wildly
remote. Many of the anchorages we
spotted were quite idyllic; deep clear water and pine forest right down to the
water’s edge.
 |
| Great day for a sail....downwind - perhaps we should upgrade to WJ4? |
Aside from
the armada of charterers cruising down this coast with us, we happened upon a
submarine that had to use all its stealth and cunning to manoeuvre through our
fleet and out to sea. The sight of this
modern “stealth machine” made us picture battleships of old under full sail and
the impressive sight they must have been.
 |
| Rock cut Tomb of Amyntas, (350 BC)...amazing! |
We decided
to visit Fethiye first as it
promised a few interesting opportunities to get up close with the remains of
Telmessus, the Lycian Federation’s principle port. (Xanthos, the capital is located to the
south.) The Lycians were an indigenous
race with a somewhat sobering reputation for their skill in battle and
seamanship. They had a penchant for
carving tombs out of solid cliff faces as well, which we couldn’t help but
notice sailing into Fethiye; the Tomb of Amyntas (350 BC) set high above the town
glints dramatically in the afternoon sun.
Next day,
with walking shoes on, we scrambled up into the steep area behind town to visit
the tombs. We could access only one, but
had a good view of many others chipped out of the surrounding cliff
face. There is also a fantastic view
back across the town, the resort sprawl and the entire bay. On the way down, we found a couple of small
tortoises who were obviously in charge of keeping the “lawns” mowed. They must be looking forward to a bit of rain
as well!
 |
The town has been build around old water cisterns
(Ottoman period) like this one |
Further along
and also above town is a medieval fort (Knights of St John), now a dusty, unrestored
ruin. Despite encouragement from its keeper,
we skipped this pleasure on such a hot day.
It is certain that the fort was built over earlier fortifications
perhaps from Telmessus times. One site
that is being given an overhaul (restoration dollars) is the ancient (Roman)
theatre. Located right in town between
the port area and what remains of the old Ottoman city (Paspatur), it will soon
have a new life as an entertainment venue.
 |
| Some of the Museum's outdoor exhibits |
Back in
town, we headed for Fethiye’s museum, quite a little gem. The exhibits are well cared for, have succinct
explanations (including English translations) and are ordered in logical sequence. It is relatively easy then for time-poor
visitors to get a feel for how Telmessus developed with each new “wave” of settlers.
Out in the well cared for grounds, is an
assemblage of sarcophagi, essentially all that remains, other than the rock
tombs, of ancient Telmessus.
 |
| A piece from Roman times - very beautiful |
The market
area made pleasant strolling although the hamam (a 16th c bathhouse)
attendant couldn’t talk the Cap’n into submitting his body. (The Cap’n still has nightmares from his
Moroccan hamam experience at the hands of the Berber Bear!). Whilst we didn’t buy souvenirs or carpets
(tempting!) we did stop to eat at Megri. We shared a traditional lamb dish cooked in a
clay pot (& cracked open at our table) with the best flat breads (hot from
the oven) we’d eaten so far.
Our decision
to leave Fethiye came earlier than we planned.
For unknown reasons, we were the anchored sail boat chosen to move (at
7.30am) so that the Coast Guard could manoeuvre into a nearby S&R
dock. We understood it was an emergency
situation but as always, when you need to act with haste (especially with a
large CG vessel bearing down on you), every link in 200 feet of chain seemed
congested with slime & mud. Anchor
woman bent to the task of spraying down the chain and anchor; however, WJ3 (and
she) quickly became a muddy mess. So
then it seemed appropriate to head for Gocek,
up-market village and bay thick with the yachtie set. After negotiating our way into the designated
anchorage area, we decided it wasn’t for us and leaving a muddy trail behind, headed out for Skopea Limani to
search for that perfect anchorage .
 |
| Wild topiary birds in Fethiye's water-side park |
We settled
on Boynuz Buku, a mini-fiord with
steep sides, lots of pines and deep waters.
We found a cosy spot and med-moored.
The anchor dropped in over 100 feet just 3 boat-lengths from shore and
our stern positioned close to the cliff; so close in fact, we thought we were sheltering
under large pine trees. It was rather
warm so this time Cap’n Courageous leapt in and obligingly swam ashore with our
long line. Later in the day this popular
spot filled up, taking the edge off its attractiveness.
 |
Fethiye Town Dock - with old Fort (under the big flag) with caves behind;
rock tombs (to the left) but not clearly visible |
We decided
to move on rather than spend the night in Boynuz Buku. The Cap’n noticed strong winds were forecast
in the days ahead, and as we had to travel north
(against the prevailing winds), decided it was time to make a move now. So we did.
At night in weaker winds…or so we thought. At one time we were bashing into 20 knots or
more trying to make headway. GS having
come down with the flu, made for a bunk and slept the entire 8 hours of the
trip, waking in time to set the anchor in Marmaris Limani. A cunning plan indeed…..
From:
Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.566N 28:18.830E Date/Time: 9/09/13: 0930
To:
Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.543N
28:18.898E Date/Time: 13/09/13: 1330
Time
Taken: 115nm (19.5hrs) Distance
(this year): 2509nm (408hrs)
Distance
Total (since 2008): 13334nm Weather: NW 10-20kts;
Fastest
Speed: 5.9kts; under motor & limited sail
