Morocco Top Ten: Finding Fossils

Meknes, Morocco

#7.  Visit Imperial Cities & Roman Ruins in a day

Entrance to old Medina, Rabat

Rabat is Morocco’s political and administrative centre.  It is largely deserted of tourists, so we were able to roam at will, avoiding a local demonstration (and riot police), into the depths of the quiet medina.  We emerged at the entrance to a whitewashed Kasbah balancing neatly on cliffs overlooking a somewhat subdued Atlantic Ocean.  Given a walking tour map, we explored narrow cobbled streets, escaped from the heat in peaceful Andalucian Gardens and took in our first museum, the Musee de Oudaias, housed in a former palace.  From here we caught the train, 2½ hrs (in second class so that locals could appreciate fully our appalling French or Arabic) to Meknes. 

Meknes City Gates

Meknes (named for the original Meknassis Berber tribe 10^th c) is a modest town that we explored at leisure.  Youssef had set us another walking tour (having all returned after the last), and somehow our navigational skills held out yet again – although some were sorely tempted by market stalls of goodies along the way.  Sultan Moulay Ismail (1672-1727) made Meknes his capital and managed to control various warring factions and colonial powers to bring peace to a consolidated Morocco.  He was not only responsible for Morocco’s golden age but his family connections extend to the current monarchy.

Green, Pink or Black Olives, Madam or perhaps Preserved Lemons

On our way to Volubilis, we stopped briefly to see the pilgrim town of Moulay Idriss.  Each year thousands cram into this tiny town to celebrate the life of one of Morocco’s most venerated religious leaders.  From our vantage point, the town is said to look like a sleeping camel.  A fossil hawker literally appeared from nowhere, hopeful for a sale or two. We had been warned about the proliferation of fake goodies and therefore did not make his day!

Roman History in Volubilis

Volubilis was once a major Roman outpost (2-5^th c) of the province of Mauretania; its wealth derived from trade in commodities such as oil, wheat and wild animals for Rome’s gladiatorial exhibitions.  We met local guide Abdelhay, who explained that less than half of the site had been excavated, and much had been destroyed in the 1755 earthquake that rocked Portugal.   We certainly walked the walk and talked the talk as he took us back in time, showing us exquisite mosaic floors, the grand Triumphal Arch (217), public baths and houses of ill repute. Here, the Cap’n paid homage to certain Roman gods – let’s hope these photos don’t make it on Facebook!

It was a fascinating visit to this UNESCO World Heritage site (1977) and an opportunity to get close to Roman ruins without the crowds. The area is gradually being developed with a museum in the pipeline and further digs to explore  areas not yet excavated.  Later, whilst sheltering from afternoon heat at a nearby cafe, we developed our growing taste for refreshing, sugary mint tea.

Intricate Mosaic Floors Volubilis

Moroccan Top Ten: Laid Back Essaouira

Essaouira, Morocco 

#6.  Visit a Hammam

Essaouira was a welcome stop after our desert pilgrimage (and ahem, a touch of old Moroccan Misery!).  We stayed in a pleasant riad (Dar el Qdima) in the heart of the old medina, close to city ramparts and port.  Rachida expertly guided us around town pointing out interesting features, including the markets, port, old city defensive walls built by the Portuguese, restaurants for a later “nus-nus” (milk coffee) fix, and best of all, how to get back to our Riad through the maze of streets.  

Our Guide leads us through the richly decorated old medina

We didn’t swim on the beaches here, though neither did many Moroccans.  Powerful and cold Atlantic waters were attracting a surfing and windsurfing crowd, though not a sport for us. Having walked the Port earlier with its large and ancient sardine fishing fleet, we knew swimming was not an option there either; the waters were a bit grim.   However a couple of sailing yachts had berthed, so the Cap’n took note for “later” options to explore.  

Every sailor's dream....

Essaouira translates from Arabic as “image”.  In 1765, the Sultan employed a French architect to design a medina with a grid of relatively wide streets, to attract European merchants away from rival trading towns along the coastline.  The city has since attracted more than merchants with the likes of Orson Wells, Jimi Hendrix and film-maker, Ridley Scott (Kingdom of Heaven).  The alternate theme abounds with plenty of dreadlocks (on European visitors), large portraits of Che Guevara, and laid back Gnaoua musicians (local sufi/soul music inspired by African slaves). 

Fort Protection

We shopped in hassle free markets, bought silver jewellery (as you do), ate fresh lobster grilled beside the Skala du Port, explored the medina again and snapped up a few more bargains. Sadly, the purple dye that Essaouira was once famous for, now no longer exists.  Murex, a shellfish and source of the dye, were fished to provide Roman Emperors with their robes of rank. The Iles Purpuraires now remain only in name.

Spices.  How do they do that?

Time to relax in Essaouira took on a whole new meaning with a visit to the nearby hammam or Moroccan communal steam bath.  The Cap’n bravely stepped up for the complete experience, including a gummage (or scrub) with mud pack and then body massage.   Our exhausted Cap’n returned with tales of his body being pummelled and kneaded for hours by an enthusiastic “Berber Bear”.

Meanwhile, some other kneading was going on in town

Morocco Top Ten: Just a Little Effort Required

Aremd, Toubkal National Park, Morocco

#5.  Trek in the High Atlas

All “Top Ten’s” require some kind of physical activity.  Skiing in Morocco was suggested.  Sure!  It was only 42 degrees the day we went through Marrakesh.  Surfing sounded a better option but it was unseasonably windless and waveless in Essaouira, so that’s off the list too!  What did we do then?  Climb a jolly big yarma in the High Atlas, that’s what…

Heading up & down and up & down...

After leaving Ait Benhaddou, our little bus gamely tackled the giddy heights of Tizi n Tichka Pass (lovingly referred to as Chicken Tika at 2260m) before turning off into the Toubkal region to the town of Imlil (1740m).  Here we mounted our sturdy mules (or walked) 45 mins uphill to the Gite Imin Tzikert, happily situated on the banks of a seasonal river (snow melt, darlings!) at Aremd (1900m).  The mountains seemed to surround us, as did the muezzin’s evening call to prayer as it circulated round valley mosques.  

Our host, “Tagine” Hussain made us feel most welcome with mint tea served on the terrace in full sight of North Africa’s highest peak, Jebel Toubkal (4167m) only about a 10k stroll away.  The family then fed us grandly with olives, couscous, tagines, plenty of fresh bread and local fruit.  We needed our strength for the trip up into the mountains to the Sidi Chamharouch Shrine (2350m) next morning.

There was movement at the station.....whoa there boy!

Had GS realised that Guide Hammid was to walk us uphill for 2 hours, perhaps she would have eaten less for dinner.  Actually, we did well, ascending in the early morning cool.  Sidi (Saint) Chamharouch is considered the king of the djinns and many, many devout pilgrims make this trek to absolve sins, heal sickness, find good luck, fend off bad spirits or simply improve life's daily grind. 

We stopped to sip tea in the village near this tiny shrine, imaging ourselves to be the only foreigners in situ.  The shrine building is quiet simple but majestic in its surrounds.  The shrine itself within, is a large rock painted white.  It is thought to be Marabout (pre-Islamic) in origin and is famous for its animal sacrifices intended to drive off bad djinns.  Only Muslims are allowed over the stone bridge to visit the shrine.

Later, somewhat recovered, we made our way down to the Gite (lunch was waiting), hurrying passed crowds struggling uphill in the heat.  Refreshed we then made our way downhill to Imlil, passing a woman singing the praises of Allah at the top of her voice as she bumped upwards on her mule.  We just wanted to see Moulay and our mini bus – no more walking!! For a few hours at least.

Shrine of Sidi Chamharouch (the top for us)

Morocco Top Ten: Riff Resort

Chefchaouen, Morocco

#4.  Chefchaouen

This blue and white medina up high in the Riff Mountains has won many hearts and minds including ours.  But more on that adventure later when we visit with our friend, Miss BCK….

Seriously Blue and White

Forget the blog, we've got shopping to plan..

Morocco Top Ten: Lights, Camera, Action...

Ait Benhaddou, Morocco

#3.  Learn to cook Moroccan foods (with Mr Action)

Our minibus ride took us through some spectacular desert scenery near the High Atlas Mountains.  Clearly, movie directors saw the potential of the area many years ago, so there is a thriving “Mollywood” industry in town. Once a French garrison town, Ouarzazate (war zazat) is now movie-land providing perfect scenery for movies set in far off countries such as Tibet, Egypt, ancient Rome and more. 

Ksar at Ait Benhaddou

Our hectic schedule allowed us time to visit to Handicapped Project Horizon, a most worthy charity; a herbalist to try out some of his youth giving lotions & potions and then the Atlas Film Studios.  (Sadly, the Cap’n was not “spotted” by a talent scout to appear as Gladiator’s  double.)  We missed walking the Taourirt Kasbah but managed to take in the imam’s evening call to pray echoing over Ait Benhaddou’s valley as we settled in to our dinner on Mr Action Houssain’s terrace. The Ksar at Ait Benhaddou is a stunning fortress castle in near perfect condition; Lawrence of Arabia and Gladiator were both filmed here.

Photogenic Mr Action Houssain, film star & celebrity cook

Mr Action has indeed appeared in many films as an extra.  However for us, he became a most genial host (Maison d’Hote La Fibule) and a top cooking class demonstrator.   He later confessed that his sister and mother do most of the cooking.  Our couscous and tagines were delicious.  Though we were disappointed not to have Russell Crowe pop in to share some supper …  

See, we do so look alike...

Morocco Top Ten: On the Sahara's Edge

Erg Chebbi, Morocco

#2. Overnight in the Sahara Desert

Somehow, trekking by camel in Saharan sand dunes has escaped becoming a tourist cliché.  Salam, our Berber man in blue, made us feel so welcome.  He wanted us to have a good time, experience the best of his home and share his enthusiasm for his Berber way of life.  

Enthusiastic Salam

We had started the day with a long drive across desolate country in the heat ending with a bit of off-roading to get to our stop at Auberge Salama, Merzouga. Our camel team was waiting.  After a brief respite, we were matched, human to camel and off into the sunset we marched. The Erg Chebbi is the edge of a frontier; its dramatic scenery belies its harsh and unforgiving nature.  Salam and his companions had learned, not how to tame the desert, but rather live with it – a symbiotic relationship with advantages for both. 

Erg Chebbi

A camp of traditional Berber tents had been set up in a small “oasis”; we had the choice of sleeping under the stars or in a tent.  Facilities were basic but Salam and his team managed to cook up a storm of tagines and couscous then offered to lull us to sleep with traditional drumming.  We just could not take our eyes off the magnificent starscape overhead.

No funny business now

Next morning everyone was up with the sunrise.  We watched a young goatherd tend his bleating flock and wondered what animal life had left tracks in the sand.  It was time to set off back to the Auberge for breakfast.  Our trusty camels were saddled up with only little junior making a fuss about having to carry the luggage (again)! Life is never fair to teenagers of any kind…. 

Australian wanting to meet nice Berber camel

Morocco Top Ten: This is Fes

Fes, Morocco

So, let's begin our Morocco Top Ten....from where else, but the top!!

#1. Tanneries in Fes Medina

balak! balak!  Medina mule (carrying gas tanks) passing!

The Motleys loved Fes.  It is quintessential Morocco all wrapped up in ochre mud brick homes, sturdy medina walls and rooftops dusted with satellite dishes.  From a distance, you would swear that the city was empty but inside covered medieval souks, life goes on in a buzz as it has for thousands of years.  

Although now UNESCO World Heritage listed, its importance was recognised by French General Lyautey in 1913.  Subsequent renovation and restoration programs have retained this Imperial city’s “caravanserai” trading flavour, ensured artisans skills are not lost, and brought modernity in moderation.

Local Colour

Our hotel (Jnan Sbile) was perfectly located opposite beautiful walled gardens and near enough to Fes’ old medina (Fes el-Bali).  We were homesick for Delhi in an instant. As we only had one day, we had Aziz guide us through some of the reputed 9000 lanes and streets all filled with shops and goodies to buy. A 13^th century rabbit warren of narrow lanes, sights that made the eyes water and the stomach turn were set side by side with aromatic spices, pungent preserved olives and lemons and sticky sweet desserts.  We spent the day being “balak”ed (look out!) by donkey drivers, hassled in carpet shops and flattered by textile merchants.  We held our noses in the tanneries, ate pigeon pastillas with relish in exotic restaurants, explored Medersa Bou Inania (1375), donated to wandering minstrels and still managed time to shop.   It’s the kind of place you really must get lost in…

Not an easy life in the Tanneries