Saturday, October 27, 2012

Anniversaries Ole

Cadiz.  Super view from one of the city's many towers, Torre Tavira
Puerto America Marina, Cadiz

Itinerary Cadiz, Spain: 10-14th October 2012.  Taking history lessons in one of Spain’s oldest, most notable port cities.  Their ham (jamon) and sherry is also highly recommended

Cadiz is said to have existed for over 3000 years.  The Phoenician’s settled, Hannibal plotted, Columbus sailed, Sir Francis Drake raided, Anglo-Dutch burned (to the ground), Napoleon desired and early American colonies traded - all from here.

Not perhaps quite how I'd like to be remembered...
Old city streets, lined with tapas bars and cafes, remain narrow and quaint. Painted apartment blocks are decorated with elaborate tiled balconies and wrought iron work.  Leafy squares pulsed with activity.  We biked, we walked and we caught a big red bus just to be sure that we saw as much as we could. Highlights of the city are sculptured gardens of Parque del Genoves, a massive baroque yellow-domed cathedral, 4kms of beautiful white sandy beach, isolated Castillo de San Sebastian and a camera obscura (and view) at Torre Tavira. BCK & GS also shopped in high fashion streets.  Locals are so very stylish that we all felt a little “boat crumpled” (that’s our excuse).
Oh, I'm sooo happy to have found you XX years ago! 
Tell the truth or the fingers are off...
Our fixation however was with tapas and, as luck would have it, we fell into a wonderful tapas bar somewhere deep in cobbled streets surrounding the cathedral.  We ate special ham (acorn fed pigs), smoked salmon, veal, octopus salad, cheese and drank beer, white wine and rose.  Plus a few reds…  Oh, and a digestive of sherry (we think!)  Well, we’re in Spain after all and we did have reason to celebrate.  And we’re very good at it….. except remembering the name of the tapas bar!! 
Watching the world go by through a ham curtain in yet another Tapas Bar
From: Ceuta, Spain  Lat/Long: 35:53.412N  05:18.821W   Date/Time: 10/10/12: 0125
To: Cadiz, Spain  Lat/Long: 36:32.544N  06:17.042W   Date/Time: 10/10/12: 1530
Time Taken: 73.5nm (14hrs)  Distance (this year): 335nm (55hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 10572nm   Weather: Little wind; very calm & flat  
Fastest Speed:
Up early to make the best of tides through narrow Gib Straits; little shipping thankfully; heavy fog near Tarifa.  Good run until Cape Trafalgar when current turned and winds got up a little.
Yes, we did find time to catch a big red bus too,
our modus operandi to scope new cities!  

Friday, October 26, 2012

A Smidge of Spain in Morocco

Ceuta Marina, Spain

Itinerary Ceuta, Spain: 9th October 2012.  Ceuta, (said “suit  ah”) is a Spanish enclave on the north African coast where we plan to wait out the right tides, winds and shipping, to get through the Strait of Gibraltar.  An exit from the Med back into Atlantic waters. 

We had high hopes for Ceuta.  Described as a little gem on the edge of Africa, it has been in existence since Phoenician times.  It is compact, boasts green open plazas, grey sandy beaches - and is closed from 1.30 until 5pm daily.  This was our day:

 #1. Macca’s (for internet of course) – closed until 12 mid-day.  What???
We took our own tour outside the Royal Walls in Bruce
#2. Dinghy tour of the canal between the medieval Royal Walls (5th c) – and a “no entry” sign in Spanish…but we did anyway.  Oooops!

#3. Plaza de Africa.  A tropical green space sheltered by an 18th c church with lots of baroque gold work; a more austere 17th c cathedral but having some of its huge artworks being painstakingly restored; a small cathedral museum (closing at 1pm) and a Phoenician settlement uncovered in recent times.
We did a little shopping,sweetie
And a little sightseeing
#4. We walked to the Museo del la Legion via the corniche overlooking two popular town beaches.  Clearly not everyone goes home for lunch!  Important to keep that Med suntan up somehow!  Having made the museum with 20 mins to spare, we were able, after a passport check, to dash about checking out military memorabilia (1920’s onwards).  The Spanish Legion continues its desert and border duties today.
Wedding Cake anyone?  Topped with Dragons too...
#5. After avoiding enlistment, we hurried on to Plaza de los Reyes, sidestepping more beggars than we’d seen in the whole of Morocco, then on to the Casa de los Dragones.   More Disney than baroque, this former home, now beautifully restored typifies Cueta (well, on the outside, anyway). 

#6. Well ahead of schedule by now, we stopped for a quick tapas lunch before heading off to the Parque Maritimo del Mediterraneo, a huge pool/bar/restaurant/casino complex for a quick dip.  Just our luck – the pools were as empty as the restaurants.  A few young ladies sunned themselves, cooling off under showers as necessary, beside gull strewn, empty lagoons and waterless waterfalls.  The Casino opened at 10pm for action.  Welcome to Spain. 
Time for your sea survival training BCK
#7. What’s next?  Well, Macca’s might be open by now….  Except, right on 4pm, a thick, cold fog settled in over the marina. 
You promised me sun on this trip...where is it?
 
From: Restinga Smir, Morocco  Lat/Long: 35:45.176N  05:20.542W  Date/Time: 8/10/12: 1100
To: Ceuta, Spain  Lat/Long: 35:53.412N  06:17.042W   Date/Time: 8/10/12: 1330
Time Taken: 15.5nm (2.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 261.5nm (41hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 10498.5nm   Weather: Very little wind; slightly foggy   
Fastest Speed:
Motoring; BCK tried her hand at fishing – sadly, no fresh fish dinner!

Of course, our friend Hercules was in this part of the world too, sorting out those famous Pillars, all the while searching for apples. The Pillars warn and protect us as mariners and I think we need it given the heavy fog across the strait.  We are heading out to the dreaded Atlantic, of course, and need all the help we can get!  (Truthfully, we're off to Cadiz for their famous ham and sherry...)

Cueta.  Photos thanks to BCK
From our vantage point (exiting the harbour), Hercules looks a bit lost in this landscape.  It might interest you to know that Hercules is 7 metres high.  This sculpture is said to be the largest bronze sculpture of a Classical Greek subject in the world.  This work is by Ceuta artist, 
Ginés Serrán.

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Blue Streets of Chefchaouen

Restinga Smir, Morocco

Itinerary Chefchaouen, Morocco: 5-7th October 2012.  Sail to Restinga Smir, Morocco.  (Also, just be sure WJ3’s really out of the EU.)  Taking time for a ride up to Chefchaouen to walk through blue streets of the walled Medina to the Kasbar… 
Goodbye Gibraltar, let's hope for a good sail south
Second stop on our “hectic” sailing schedule was Restinga Smir, an interesting introduction to Moroccan marinas.  From there we hired an ancient Mercedes, driven by an equally ancient Moroccan, up into the Rif Mountains to the delightful village of Chefchaouen. 
Old Medina walls, so pretty in blue
Artfully balanced beneath steep, grey peaks, the blue & white old medina is just perfect for getting lost in (well, finding yourself walking in circles actually!).  Originally the village was established as a Berber stronghold (1471), from which attacks on the then Portuguese settlement of Ceuta, were launched. Christians were forbidden to enter and those who tried paid the price with their lives. 
I feel a whole new change to our renovations coming on...
Thankfully, times have changed.  Our accommodation, Dar Ech-Chaouen was perfect; more so as it had a pool for a luxurious afternoon swim – well deserved after wandering the heavily terraced medina.  Our Cap’n resumed duties as “bag boy” while GS & BCK peered into every little bolt-hole shop, admiring everything from hand-woven hemp clothing, silver jewellery, woollen blankets and brass teapots.  And it was only week 1 of BCK’s four week stay with us…
Blue on mesmerising blue
We people watched in Plaza Uta el-Hammam over seriously sweet mint tea, commented on how laid back the merchants were in contrast to Marrakesh, then strolled the historic Kasbar and its quaint museum.  Here, GS was able to see some interesting examples of Berber embroidery, while the others strolled through the garden courtyard, marvelling at Moroccan plumbing.
Shops, shops and more shops (this one had dyes)
Later, we admired spectacular scenery as we wound our way back down by car to Smir.  Green valleys, full of life, contrasted with steep, stark peaks of the Rif Mountains.  Soon we reached Tetouan, a larger city at the mountain’s base and were astonished at the number of families who strolled tiny patches of green park, obviously a cherished Sunday evening ritual.  Even more paraded along the waterfront corniche at M’Diq, and quiet Marina Smir had come to life.  WJ3’s crew, tired from all that shopping, left late night partying to the locals and hit their bunks.  Relaxing Chefchaouen proved to be a perfect conclusion to the Motley Crew’s Moroccan sojourn. 
Come on girls!  We have to go.  There's no money left.

From: Gibraltar Lat/Long: 36:08. 963N  05:31.227W  Date/Time: 5/10/12: 1020
To: Restinga Smir, Morocco Lat/Long: 35:45.176N  05:20.542W  Date/Time: 5/10/12: 1440
Time Taken: 34.5nm (4.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 246nm (38.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 10483nm   Weather: Winds ESE 6-7kts; overcast    
Fastest Speed:
A very calm intro to sailing for BCK; lots of dolphins frolicking about

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Top O' the Rock

Marina Bay, Gibraltar

BCK Itinerary, Gibraltar. 3-4th October 2012. Time to recover then explore tiny Gibraltar's interesting past.  Oh, and check out the duty free shops!!
BCK arrives at Gib's brand new airport
Having just arrived back from our Morocco trip, we had our very first visitor to welcome onboard!  The plan was to rescue BCK after her very long flight over from Aus, then make the most of our time in Gib.  We allowed her a few days to recover from jet lag, then planned to take in the sights.  We wanted to give her a chance to meet the neighbours and do a bit of monkeying around on top of the Rock…

In all, we shopped, we rocked and we re-stocked. It was loads of fun!
A little cutie...
Our early-ish climb up to the top of the rock had us clouded in for a bit, so no views of Africa that day.  Even so, we walked a precipitous path to explore St Michael’s cave where BCK was keen to do a Dame Nellie Melba impression and yodelled a few bars up into the upper reaches of this vast space.  Then it was back along the track to run the gambit of frolicking monkeys.  (Barbary macaques actually, and the only wild primates in Europe). 
Do you think this is loaded?
It was a day for walking and we quickly made our way to the hand-hewn Great Siege Tunnels (1779-1783). Having recently rained, the tunnels dripped; the realities of life in those times seemed even harsher.  Further down the hill BCK & GS stopped at the “Gibraltar, City under Siege” exhibition and then the Tower of Homage (1333), once part of a larger Islamic castle.  
Tower of Homage, airport runway & Gibraltar Bay beyond
Sadly, we seeing missed the WW2 Tunnels. These penetrate the rock for 70km, some large enough for roads, hospitals and huge water tanks.  GS & the Cap’n had previously taken a tour, expertly guided by Hans, and spent an hour wandering through these tunnels. Views from vantage points out over Gibraltar’s steep north face were incredible.

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

On Tour with Hercules #2

Hercules in North Africa
11th Herculean Labour: Apples of Hesperides
Well, I bet you thought we’d forgotten about our trusty hero.  No!  Hercules had been set a labour that involved travel to the Atlas Mountains.  (Atlas was the god who held the world on his shoulders.)  He was to search for golden apples.  Some say it was tangerines.  Some say he travelled to Libya (which is close enough to Morocco after all).  However, this is where the Atlas Mountains are located and as we know, Atlas was the lucky lad who got to hold the world upon his shoulders.

As we made our way through the Rif, Middle Atlas, High Atlas and Anti-Atlas Mountains we saw no sign of Hercules.  However, in Volubilis (once capital of Mauretania Tingitana) as we made our way through Roman ruins, there in  mosaic , was a record of our hero's famous labours.  So, merely a case of right place, wrong century!!

Here's the Wiki link for The Labours if you want to brush up!
Possibly the 7th Labour - The Cretan Bull - mosaic floor in Volubilis, Morocco

Monday, October 22, 2012

Accommodating Morocco

Hotel Taborihte Todra Gorge
One of the exciting opportunities we had whilst travelling in Morocco was to sample a variety of accommodations.  Most were family owned, recently restored and always worlds away from the Hyatt experience.  Yes, sometimes the hot water was cold, occasionally we had squat toilets and there were often lots of dark stairs to climb but the terraces offered wonderful views over busy medinas or dark desert skies filled to the brim with stars. 
Hotel Majestic, Meknes.  We might have to re-reno the reno's at home.
We had been told it is not in the Moroccan character to compete or be showy with wealth.  When it comes to their home, exteriors are kept plain and simple and do not indicate family size or wealth.  Doors are large, often with two openings; one larger to receive important guests and a smaller one for family members, obliging a respectful bow on entering the household.
Hotel Al Mamoun, Casablanca: very central
Once inside, rooms and narrow passages seem to multiply; a labyrinth and hive of family activity, including perhaps granaries and stables – if you were a king or noble!  Few have external windows as a courtyard, perhaps with a cooling fountain and/or garden and intricate tile-work, clearly defines the central hub.  
No photo of Jnan Sbile in Fes, so colourful tileworks instead
Colours vary; some are bright and enthusiastic, others are charming blue and white.  Ochres define mud brick constructions which range from simple walled gardens to huge fortresses.  Low brown Berber tents are stretched with hide and provide shelter from scorching desert heat.
Maison d'Hote La Fibule:
Action Houssain offers wonderful accommodation
Some of the types of accommodation you will find in Morocco are:
Riad: Riad literally translates as “garden” and they were traditionally built as a nobleman’s townhouse, often for reception or business purposes.  Built around a central garden, a riad provides the family with an escape from outside medina bustle.  The garden usually has olive, orange or palm trees, perfumed plantings and a central fountain.  Houses often have less than 12 rooms, are colourfully decorated and often come furnished with antiques or stylish local products.  Many are being renovated and offered as B&B accommodations, particularly in Marrakesh and Fes. 
Dar: Literally translates as “house”.  Generally we know it as a traditional townhouse with internal courtyard, sometimes enclosed.
Riad Dar el Qdima, Essaouira: Kitchen servery

Gite (said zheet): A gite is traditionally a rural holiday rental.  Usually a renovated traditional cottage, they offer rudimentary accommodation (a trekker’s hostel) or sometimes a homestay.
Gite Imin Tzlkert, Aremd: family-run gite with our view of Jebel Toubkal
Auberge: From the French, literally translates as inn or tavern. The Auberge we stayed in was a rambling collection of rooms around various courtyards.  It spread over quite a large land area.  Needless to say, it was in a rural setting on the outskirts of a small village.  Auberge Jaafar, located near Midelt, was surrounded by orange, walnut, almond and olive trees.  Here we were entertained by a Berber troupe.
Auberge Salama, Merzouga
Ksar: A Ksar (singular) or Ksour (plural) is a fort or fortified stronghold often made of pise (sundried clay or mud) and sporting battlements and bastions.  This is another construction of featuring a labyrinth of rooms, passages, streets and souks.  We had the pleasure of seeing two, Ait Benhaddou (the setting for Lawrence of Arabia) and El Korbat, where they have a small but interesting museum.  Even if you aren’t keen on museums, this little gem gives you a fantastic opportunity to get lost inside a real Ksar.
A crumbling ruin.  Most prefer modern accommodation now
Desert Camp: Traditional nomadic Berber-style accommodation for families.  A camp consists of low, brown tents made of waterproof hessian type cloth or animal hide sited for protection.  They are furnished with basic mattresses and blankets.  We had a generator for lighting at night – quite a luxury!

Azib: An azib is a seasonal shelter used by Berber shepherds when tending their roaming flock.  It is usually a modest tent, little furniture (if at all) and can have an internal fire or stove.

Medina: The old city or town, usually enclosed by a fortified wall.  Filled with a seeming chaotic collection of housing and souks that run along a labyrinth of narrow streets.  
Mellah: Jewish quarter of the medina
Hotel Caspien, Marrakesh: Foyer

Sunday, October 21, 2012

Morocco Top Ten: Magicians & Carpet Baggers

Marrakesh, Morocco

#10.  Have dinner at the Djemaa el-Fna, Marrakesh


Marrakesh, although considered a tourist mecca, was for us an experience of limited charm.  It all began at the bus station in a heavy downpour.  Our taxi decided to evict us having been offered a better deal by an independent tourist.  We should have seen it coming.
Hand of Fatimah knocks
In the evening, we explored famous Djemaa el-Fna (Square of the Dead), taking dinner at one of the many food stalls.  Our small group was conspicuous and attracted beggars, hawkers, sweet sellers and musicians.  Our food reeked of “tourist trap”.  To be fair, it was still raining and a blistering Marrakesh had cooled down. Still, the tourist brochure entertainment at Djemaa el-Fna was just not happening, so we elected to return to the hotel.  In the meantime, our guide had been picked up and held by Police, his paperwork and credentials closely  inspected. 
Never a dull wardrobe
The next morning, our local guide had some difficulty in understanding our expectations for a day tour.  This was something of a concern because we were paying extra.  Our group was eventually whipped around some mosque ruins (1565), an interesting palace (Palais del la Bahia) and intricate Saadian Tombs before heading back into the Medina souks - for his kick-backs, we presumed.  Ah yes, Djemaa el-Fna in the daylight!  Our first experience of the “cobra wave”!  
One by one, snake charmers, under large umbrellas, poked hefty black snakes into action and played a few exotic notes on flutes as we walked past.  In the side streets, GS stopped to price a teapot.  Big mistake!  An old woman chased her through the medina determined to sell and was making quite a scene.  Polite refusals made no difference and eventually our guide put a stop to it.  There was quite a commotion.  
Deeper inside the medina, GS (not quick to learn from past experience) found another shop with teapots.  Having established a reasonable price, she decided to see what was on offer elsewhere. “Don’t bother coming back if  you don’t take my offer now”, said our less-than-humble shop owner. 
Majorelle Blues
A smartly dressed older man seemed to shadow us whilst we travelled through the city on a downtown bus.  It wasn’t until we were about to get off that we realised he had been trying to pick pockets.  He had, desperate to get a wallet, made a large cut in a fellow travellers pants with a sharp knife.  Nasty!  We should have taken a photo for our Guide to give to the Police.  I have to say though, that there was a decent Police presence in Marrakesh.

Our destination, the Majorelle Gardens, was a quiet (and secure haven) where we could gather our wits and experience a colourful Marrakesh in a painterly way. The small museum of Berber costume inside the Gardens is quite stunning and presented as only Yves St Laurent would have wanted it. The other Museum with fantastic costume displays well worth visiting in Marrakesh was Maison Tiskiwin, home since 1950 to Dutch expat, Bert Flint.  As you can imagine, his Berber collection is something to be admired (and desired).
Maison Tiskiwin
Teapot in hand, the Motleys fled for the overnight train to Tangier.  Our compartment buddies were two lovely boys, trainee teachers, about to travel to Brussels for study.  Both spoke very little English while the Motleys gargled French nouns (mostly made up words).  It was so much fun and the lads were so considerate, our misgivings about Marrakesh simply vanished.
Goodbye Tangier, we'll catch you another time for sure!

Saturday, October 20, 2012

Moroccan Top Ten: Art Deco Heritage

Casablanca, Morocco

#9.  Visit the Hassan II Mosque


Having left Gibraltar very early, taken a 7am bus from La Línea de la Concepcióno across the border in Spain, arrived in Tarifa, boarded the 9am fast ferry to Tangier, dashed for the 11.30 train to Casablanca and then argued (as you do!) for a taxi fare to our hotel (also not booked), we felt we had achieved the ultimate in free-form travel.  The Motleys allowed two days to get to Casablanca and had made it in one.  We celebrated by having a beer (also a rare event in Islamic Morocco) and dinner in Hotel Al Mamoun.  This hotel had just the right Moroccan flavour with decorative tile work, French antiques and nightclub customers enjoying an evening shisha pipe. And they found us a room despite the fact we had arrived a day early.
Villa des Artes (Are we in Singapore?)
Next morning we set off to explore Casablanca, Morocco’s commercial hub that has a decidedly French flair and an Art-Deco vibe.  The city is an immediate assault on all senses.  Dirty, full of rubbish, people and chaotic traffic, all horns, braying donkeys and demanding touts eager to fleece your last dirham.  For all that, tourists were a rare enough site and we settled in to strolling with locals to see art deco gems left by colonial French.   Our first stop was the well cared for Villa des Arts, a restored 1930’s mansion that could have been equally at home in Singapore; now it’s an art gallery showcasing contemporary Moroccan art.
Tiles with style
From here we walked past the Cathedral du Sacre Coeur (1930), deconsecrated and dilapidated, into the old walled Medina, through narrow streets lined small shops and carts selling fresh produce, meat, fish, plastic shoes, computer spares and the ubiquitous mint tea.  We slid out into a government store (set prices) only to find the Cap’n cornered in the carpet section.  Pricing in Morocco proved to be dealing the ultimate in slippery little suckers…. 
Hassan II Mosque decorative detail
We took the opportunity to visit Hassan II Mosque the next morning.  Note: it is as far from Art Deco style as one can possibly imagine.  The Mosque is one of the largest religious buildings in the Islamic world.  It sits, perched out on the edge of the Atlantic coastline, and is reported to have cost some US$800m to construct.  The craftsmanship is absolutely superb though, with dazzling tile work, decorative fountains and stunning painted woodwork.  Fortunately, non-Muslims are allowed to visit this extravaganza where more than 100,000 devotees can come at any one time to pray.
Hassan II Mosque interior
The intrigue and romance of Hollywood and Ricks Café (Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman) eluded us.  The city has had many reiterations since its beginnings as a Phoenician trading post (6th c BC). This was just one of them.  

Friday, October 19, 2012

Morocco Top Ten: Midnight at the Oasis

Todra Gorge, Moroocco

#8.  Walk a Palmeraie

Well, someone has to do it!
Flowing from the High Atlas, the River Dades winds its way through rugged red peaks, flat desert scapes and into the high narrow cliffs of Todra Gorge leaving a chain of lush green oasis along its course.   We were fortunate to have two days to appreciate this amazing scenery and sharp contrast of rich and meagre landscape.  The Gorge itself is a canyon with cliffs reaching some 300 feet high; we had the best of views from poolside deckchairs at Hotel Taborihte.  
A real oasis Todra Gorge
Still feeling miserable, the Motleys elected to spend the day poolside whilst others gallivanted through the palmeraie before taking in a Berber pizza.  The Cap’n breathed a sigh (heavy with relief) when they returned many hours later laden down with embroidered carpets, mostly wool and all coloured with vegetable dye.  GS was rested but furious…
Hotel photos only, not carpets (sadly)