Internet Deprivation Indeed

Kalamata, Greece

Kalamata is the kind of place you pull in to do a few chores.  It's restful, obliging and friendly - just like Pylos!  It is also a useful base to travel into the Peloponnese Peninsula and visit assorted historic treasure troves.  Better still, it’s a repository of cruising folk (and olives!).  So here we sit, having extended for another day.  Why?  Well, it’s Sunday and even less happens here on a Sunday than any other country we’ve been to.

We’ve also decided that as a general rule we will stay a minimum of 3 nights in a marina.  (It has only taken 6 years to arrive at this float plan condition.)  Our check-in day is about accepting bureaucracy with good grace and humour (Marina, Port Police &/or Customs).  Then we must attend to the duties of setting up for marina life.  The awning, passerelle (our gangplank), electricity, water and trusty bikes are attended to & set up. 

Our next day is filled with chores.  We refuel if we can.  Greece has a system of fuel coming to you, even on the dock, in mini-tankers.  Otherwise, we re-fuel before settling into our berth on Day 1.  We take on water, do the washing, shop for groceries and find a chandler to satisfy an itch for boat bits.  We clean WJ3 inside and out, relishing in having electricity to vacuum (and run the toaster!).  We take time for “loooong” showers and, once presentable (meaning smell ok), eat out at a restaurant.  Isn’t it the simple things that give pleasure?

Another lighthouse on another impossibly rocky cape

That leaves our last day for reading, relaxing and blogging.  If we have internet….. Another of our wee challenges.  Sufficient bandwidth (for our laptops) is rare.  Uploading photos – forget it!  Hence the somewhat ill-mannered bulk posting we’ve done lately – spelling & grammatical errors included!  Post now, sort it out later…  Photos?  Still crashing the system…. 

We thought we had solved our internet dilemma.  In each country we’ve purchased a Vodafaone data dongle and it’s worked well – until now… (Yes, yes, you would think that there would be one system EU wide, but not so. We have a boat full of mobile phones and data dongles from almost every country we’ve visited!!!)  The dongle we purchased in Greece, from a reliable shop-front (not Vodafone), turned out to be HOT!  Now the company won’t touch it or refund our money – yet!!!  The Cap’n is working on solving this issue by being pleasant, persistent and persuasive.  He’s very good at driving people nuts so we’re expecting results soon….

For my birthday?  Noooo, you shouldn't have.....

Lastly, if the local area offers unmissable sightseeing opportunities we might just add on a few extra days, especially if it involves overnight stays.  The Cap'n is not good at leaving his other woman unattended, especially so on anchor.  

 

From:  Pylos, Greece Lat/Long: 36:55.324N 21:42.073E Date/Time: 26/07/13: 0700
To: Kalamata, Greece Lat/Long: 37:01.446N 22:06.327E Date/Time: 26/07/13: 1315
Time Taken: 41nm (6hrs) Distance (this year): 1818nm (289hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 12643nm   Weather: SW 3-5kts avg; Hot! Hot! Hot!
Fastest Speed: 6.1kts; very calm so mostly motoring. Fuel is slightly cheaper (perhaps we should consider flying instead?)

It's All Greek to Me

Pylos, Greece

Pylos Town Square

As we sat enjoying the hospitality of Pylos, and having not done terribly much in the way of planning for our “Greek” leg, one thing became blatantly obvious. We can't stay!

GS had prepared a basic, direct to Turkey float plan but guide books being guide books recommended so much to see and do that two weeks was going to be totally inadequate.  That was all the time left on our Schengen clock this year.  So, we were going to have to be mercenary.  That meant putting together a list of all the “must do” sites.  Greece is overwhelming in this aspect.  

Her current plan calls for about 15 years of combing crumbling ruins, admiring robust cathedrals, watching traditional festivals, lusting after whitewashed cottages set in olive groves and appreciating art in countless museums.  Not to mention that our friend, Hercules, completed no less than seven of his famous Labours right here on the Peloponnese Peninsular…  And we have only 14 days to be out of Schengen areas (this year).  So you understand our dilemma.

View over Neo Kastro

Whilst digesting this challenge, we thought we should take a morning to roam the old (new) fort in town.  Now Pylos commands about two pages in the Guide, most of which is taken up with a map of the area.  “We’re safe”, we thought.  No taxing demands on our turistico-ing itinerary. Wrong! 

Only one way down... at least it's fast!

Pylos is a pretty little town set around a wide main square full of sheltering plane trees, outdoor restaurants and friendly people.  We had not explored far before coming across another Sydney resident – as you do.  Then, after a breakfast of mouth-watering pastries, we prepared for the climb up the hill to explore the medieval castle, Neo Kastro.  Built by the Turks in 1572, it changed hands several times, including duty as a prison for locals, an apparently murderous lot.  Now its pine scented grounds and restored battlements are the perfect site for an archaeological museum of underwater finds. 

Neo Kastro has perfect views over Navarino Bay too.  It’s hard to imagine this was the location of a famous sea battle - Battle of Navarin (1820), which sealed Greek independence and an end to Turkish control. The waters are said to be full of wrecks from the Turkish fleet and make great diving.  Cap’n Diver Dan bought a weight belt in anticipation.  Archaeologists believe that Navarino Bay is also the harbour of Mycenaean King, Nestor.  His ships were part of the great fleet sent to Troy (1220BC).

Looking north over Navarino Bay towards Nestor's Harbour

Neo Kastro's dungeons perhaps?

From our vantage point we hoped to see substantial ruins of another castle and acropolis, all that remains of Ancient Pylos.  One of the most famous battles of classical times was fought here in 425BC.  During the Peloponnesian War, an Athenian force took on a group of Spartans, warriors of repute.  Uncharacteristically, the Spartans surrendered.

Mythical Greece features too.  Near Ancient Pylos, in the rocky hillside, is Nestor’s Cave.  This is where Nestor & Neleus kept their cows - according to Odysseus.  And why would you not believe him!  In this same cave, Hermes hid Apollos’s cattle.  

Have we discovered an ancient city? (15-20ft down)  Sure!

So the lesson is… not to panic.  There is so much history in the Med it easy to be overwhelmed.  You want to cram; you want to see it all!  (Our Cap’n groans…)  However, there is often more than enough right in front of you.  Sometimes it pays to take on less popular options; the less travelled route if you will.  It is uplifting to stand in the small Neo Kastro museum with few, mostly local visitors and be nose-to-nose with exhibits; all minor but none-the-less superb examples of ancient Greece.

A few bats loose in someone's belfry...

Bah Humbug!

Pylos, Greece
  
Sitting on anchor in Pylos, our first Greek port of call after a whirlwind tour through the Med, I’m tempted to hurl a sharp missive to three soothsayers, visitors to the Deltaville Boatyard (USA, 2010).

Bahamas' in 2009 - early days

Let me set the scene.  There we were, at the far end of the boat yard, up on spindly legs getting ready to splash.  Afternoon visitors to the yard were not uncommon and three stopped by for a chat.  Actually, they stopped to highlight Hunter’s foibles, especially as they saw it, only built to suit coastal conditions they said.  Like Witches of Endor, they stirred the pot, making even more outrageous dispersions against Hunter, ignoring our rebuttal.  (Who dared even consider what their own personal sailing stories were?)

Sines, Portugal 2011 after crossing the Atlantic

Finally, they left.  “Rude,” we said in unison.  Had they bothered to listen, WJ3 had already done two laps of the Caribbean Islands, sailed to distant Turks Caicos and managed a tour through remoter Bahamas Islands.  All this before settling on the scenic route to Chesapeake Bay (via the Atlantic ICW). We were on our way to explore Maine.  Hardly dock candy, even then!

So, as we sit on anchor in Greece, about to island hop to Turkey, we say to them bah humbug!  WJ3 has 12,598 nautical miles tucked under her belt since we started sailing her in 2008.  She has now crossed the Atlantic, comfortably and safely, and this year the Mediterranean.  What a gal!  And not bad for an allegedly “unseaworthy” Hunter!

A late insert.  We've now made it to Bodrum, Turkey (2013)

Now I’m not advocating setting out to sea in a pair of floating shoes (Mind, it’s been done before!) but boat builders must comply with certain standards.  We’ve also added modifications to make WJ3 more comfortable (eg. a storm trysail) and to improve her safety (eg a sea anchor).  Check our Hunter460 blog for improvements/annual maintenance reports. 

If in doubt about your own boats seaworthiness, have it professionally surveyed and read how others have set up for ocean passages.  Beth Leonard's famous  book would make a good start.  We’ve seen expensive Beneteaus kept in marinas for Olympic triangle racing and home-made brutes only a mother could love, floating in out of the way places.  Doubting Thomas’s can check our map tracker here.

(Sorry, had to get that one off my chest!)

Sailing with the Ancients

The Strait of Messina, Italy

Time to move on again!  We made an early start through the narrow strait that separates Vulcano from Lipari, the most established of the Aeolians.  In the distance we could  see Stromboli, hazy in the early morning light.  Belching, puffing Stromboli is considered the first “lighthouse”; a unique marker for ancient sailors to warn that the Straits of Messina were close by.  It is best seen at night for its firework display.  However we had no desire to add another night to our sailing schedule and turned left to do battle with Charybdis, Scylla and the Cyclops, three of Ulysses adversaries. 

Gulet (a Turkish design) anchored off the Strait for lunch

The narrow strait, full of eddies and whirlpools, sets up an unusual current – one minute it was with us and the next against.  (Check the unusual tide chart of the area).  We easily crossed the shipping lanes, fortunately deserted on a Sunday, to hug the east coast or Italy’s big toe.  It was an exhilarating ride, especially dodging those big car ferries connecting Sicily to the mainland.  One sight that added a further sense of fantasy to the “Straits experience” was the strange swordfish fishing boats.  We saw two, remarkably dexterous, darting around what remains of Charybdis (that whirlpool!).  These boats are controlled from a high tower where the driver sits to spot fish.  A crewman stands on a very long bowsprit (sometimes longer than the boat itself) with a harpoon.  One can’t help but wonder what Ulysses would have made of them.  Sadly, the Cap’n refused to cross back over the shipping lanes and bastardi (no, tidal eddies not the Cap’n!) for a decent photo…... 

Swordfishing boat doing the daily slog

And so it was, we floated in relatively calm waters for three days and two nights.  Once out of Italy’s land mass we did pick up a decent breeze that lasted through both nights – more or less.  As luck would have it, we had the Tyrrhenian Sea to ourselves with only a little passing traffic, mostly in the distance.    

Bastardi in action - on a good day!

Sites around Italy's big toe

Last Italian landfall

We were ever so pleased to finally make our port of entry, Pylos, in the sheltered natural harbour of Navarino Bay, Greece.  

From:  Isole Vulcano, Italy Lat/Long: 38:24.897N 14:56.739E Date/Time: 21/07/13: 0730

To: Pylos, Greece Lat/Long: 36:55.324N 21:42.073E Date/Time: 23/07/13: 1500
Time Taken: 357nm (55.5hrs) Distance (this year): 1777nm (283hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 12602nm   Weather: NW 10-12kts avg;
Fastest Speed: 7.5kts; few clouds at night and hazy during day; full moon

Food Faking

Isola Vulcano, Aeolian Islands

We’ve all been there haven’t we?  Tourist food and travellers’ fast foods!  At least you mostly know what you are in for.  When you order the famous local “slow cooked” speciality and receive pan fried pork pieces, doused in carton mushroom cream sauce and garnished with a couple of hard dried figs, well, you know you’ve been had.  We’ve been lucky so far though and enjoyed quite a few encouraging local dining experiences.  

Are you sure you asked for pizza?

We thought we’d found the perfect spot to celebrate another of the Ancient Mariner’s (many) birthdays.  The setting was right – on the water’s edge, with a little dinghy dock.  Bruce took us to the door, almost.  The place was busy and the food looked good.  Little did we know we were in for a “Faulty Towers does Sicily” experience.

The harbour looked so inviting!

We were slow to be seated, hardly surprising given the restaurant’s popularity.  However, even then, things started to go awry.  Our table, in a prime spot overlooking the water, had apparently been reserved and we had to move.  The Cap’n grumbled.  A grovelling maître-d found us another table – down in the take-away pizza area but none-the-less with a water view.  And then we waited, and waited and waited.

Birthday Boy

To compensate for this neglect we were suddenly surrounded by imperious waiters, offered discounts on our meal (we hadn’t even ordered yet!) and proffered plates of appetisers as tempting “typical Sicilian starters” to keep the boiling Cap’n happy.  We weren’t offered a menu but rather told what we were to eat.  This charade had something to do with translating Italian to English (we think).  The Cap’n steamed.  Finally, out of the chaos, our order was settled and we asked for a glass of wine.  Then we waited. 

 
The appetiser and entrée arrived at the same time, plonked on the table. Eventually, our mains arrived, first separately, then finally together (after waiting) but when the Cap’n asked for another glass of wine – we waited again.  Giving up, we called for the bill.  It arrived with promptness not previously experienced.  We paid up and left.  They could wait for a tip….

We suspect a waiter is still running round tables trying to find who ordered that glass of wine.

And there's even a free beach here too!
But only the worst & hardest area to access...

Under Volcano's Brow

Isola Vulcano, Islands

We made Palermo at the break of dawn two days later and took a slow dawdle along the coast looking for a suitable anchorage.  Let me tell you, they are few and far between.  Palermo Harbour, another huge concrete jungle, simmered in a heat haze on a breathless morning.  Sitting in a marina (if we could find space) didn’t seem quite what we had hoped for, so we kept WJ3’s nose pointing east.  At last Cefalu!   With room in a tiny anchorage – even better!  Doesn’t anyone anchor in Sicily? 

Cefalu - city side

Whilst Cefalu’s medieval town beckoned us (it was a bit of a walk from the harbour) we noted it for “sometime later” and, after a decent sleep to get over our last “leg’, we hot-footed it off to the Aeolian Islands for cleaner water, sulphurous air and beneficial hot mud pools.  Good for the health, particularly arthritis.  Sure… 

WJ3 alone in Maestro Minico anchorage, Isola Vulcano

WJ3 is parked right under the brow of Gran Cratere, a smokin’, ash covered, still active volcano.  The island of Vulcano is home to four craters in all, and was described by Homer* as the workshop of Greek God, Hephaestus.  Hephaestus, God of fire, made his home in nearby Mount Etna. This island however, is named after the Roman God of fire and metal forging, Vulcan.  Are you keeping up with me? 

Meeting Mr Vulcan at the sulphur pools
"Where did you get those shorts?"asked my Mum...oh-oh! 

Meanwhile the anchorage is so nice, we’ve settled down to a few days of rest rather than try for a round the islands “race”.  Stromboli will have to wait too.  It’s been added to the later list.  The Cap’n is now happily paddling about, snorkelling here and there in deep water so clear it’s hard to believe.  There isn’t much life in Med waters but at least what there is has been left alone to someday “stock the pond”. 

People pay to coat themselves in this... We made a quick decision not to take a steep in this healing muddy slush.

*Now lads, I am not talking Simpson here. Homer was a Greek poet and wrote at least two well- known works; the Odyssey (Ulysses’ voyages) and the Iliad (Trojan War).  These works are credited with being the oldest examples of Western literature. 

From:  Cefalu, Sicily Lat/Long: 38:02.239N 14:02.125E Date/Time: 18/07/13: 1015
To: Vulcano, Aeolian Islands Lat/Long: 38:24.897N 14:56.739E  Date/Time: 18/07/13: 1900
Time Taken: 49nm (8.5hrs) Distance (this year): 1420nm (227.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 12245nm   Weather: NW to E best 10-12kts; fine & hot
Fastest Speed: 6.9kts; more dolphins and a sulphurous odour as the mountains fume…

Catching the Pony Express

Cagliari, Sardinia

This is not the one we had planned to catch

Oristano has a train station.  A bus from the marina would take us right there. Cagliari was at the end of the line, a short trip down the coast.  You can see where GS’s thoughts were taking us.  She reasoned that we could cut 3 or 4 days off our itinerary by not sailing there.  And save us marina fees too!  We couldn’t get to the station quickly enough!!!  Oooooh, a train ride…

The scenery down to Cagliari was rather nice (& green)

The train arrived near Piazza Matteotti, a short distance from the busy port area and cruise ship terminus.  It was Saturday.  There were no cruise ships in and therefore Tourist Offices were closed.  So we purchased a map (in Italian) and set off to explore the Marina Quarter and the old fortified castle set up high above it.  A wedding was underway at the impressive 19^th c Neo-Gothic Palazzo Comunale, the kind of building every town hall should be.  The bride arrived in a tiny vintage Renault and stepped out in in a cloud of white tulle and impossibly high red heels.  

There seemed to be a bit of a protest
going on in the old Port quarter... 

Drawn to the Port itself, we ambled along in the hot sun until we realised just how large this complex was before making a dash for the cooler streets across Via Roma.  Unless you actually step onto the road at pedestrian crossings, vehicles are not prepared to stop.  It’s a game of wits, a death wish and chicken joke all rolled into one.  Crossing the road successfully required a celebratory coffee (and a sugary custard-filled pastry).  Standard breakfast fare here.   

 

It was still early and restaurateurs were setting up tables for lunch all through the Marina Quarters narrow lanes.  We spotted a barber, the old fashioned Italian kind, so our Cap’n had a trim and progressed Australian diplomatic relations.  It wouldn’t have mattered.  They think we are all “Americanos” any way….

From Via Mannu, home to some rather trendy shops, we breathlessly climbed the grand marble steps of Bastione San Remy.  This sugar confection, built by the Pisans, marks the southern spur of the old citadel’s defensive walls.  There are pleasant views over the city and port from these steps, and a cooling breeze in the stifling heat, so we took time to catch our breath before heading further uphill into the maze of medieval streets beyond.  We also spotted our bride and groom being photographed in a leafy corner. 

Bastione San Remy - gate to the old citadel

The Castello District was once extremely powerful; home to the aristocracy, centre of ecclesiastical authority, and Cagliari’s administrative hub.  Our first port of call was the Cathedral (Santa Maria del Castello 13^th c) brimming full of bones, relics, art and architecture.  Guide Books sing the praises of various artists, many of whom we did not know.  We decided then and there not to get too caught up in “who did what” but search out the big styles and big names; otherwise appreciate fine work, clever craftsmanship and try to get a feel for local history.  That said, we were probably into cathedral overload by now anyway. 

There's going to be a wedding at the Cathedral

We sat on the Cathedral steps to watch the goings on in Piazza Palazzo – an unfortunate car park for inner district residents.  Bunting was fluttering gaily outside, whilst inside, pews were decorated in silk and white flowers.  Our bride limped by, her shoes not the most suitable for walking the cobbled streets.  However would she make it down that lengthy aisle?  The groom looked as if he was over it all before the ceremony had even started….

A confection of carved marble would you believe...

By this stage we decided to move downhill, towards the train station.  Yes, it was hot and our feet hurt too!  Somehow we arrived at the Elephant Gate (1307), another medieval tower construction marking an entrance into the citadel.  Its massive wooden gates armed with serious iron spikes spoke eloquently of Sardinian people’s early existence.  These gates are said to be masterpieces of military engineering – they certainly looked like it!   Then, it was down a lift, through the grounds of medieval church Santa Chiara, a quick whip around a small market for fruit supplies before crossing Piazza Yenne in the Stampace Quarter (named after an influential 16^th c art school) to bid adieu to King Carlo Felice and hospitable Cagliari .   

This is the backless tower of the Elephant Gate

And this is its rather solid front 1308

There was just enough time to scoff down a gelato before catching the train back to Oristano.  We made it back in good time – a chance to prepare for the next day’s big adventure – our crossing to Sicily.

GS was lucky enough to catch a window display of local costumes & embroidered wraps. Being Saturday, the store was closed.

From:  Oristano, Sardinia Lat/Long: 39:54.175N 8:29.506E Date/Time: 14/07/13: 1135

To: Cefalu, Sicily Lat/Long: 38:02.239N 14:02.125E Date/Time: 17/07/13: 1420
Time Taken: 349nm (57.5hrs) Distance (this year): 1371nm (219hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 12196nm   Weather: N to NW best 18-20kts; fine
Fastest Speed: Managed a good sail or two; 6-7kts; played with dolphins again…

Oristano Walking Tour

Oristano, Sardinia

A mix-up with our paperwork (we’re from Australia - not outer space, though sometimes it feels like it) initially had us confined to WJ3 with visits allowed – no overnights – to Oristano only…   Fortunately, the Police rang back later and confirmed that we were indeed “acceptable” travellers and to fill our boots so as to speak (but not with concrete you understand!).

WJ3 in her silted-up Torre Grande Marina berth

Being Friday and needing a few things, we combined a visit to nearby Oristano with our chores, and as it turned out, had a great day in a normal, almost tourist-free town.   

Sardinia has a long history given the number of mysterious nuraghic structures (1800 BC) dotted around the island.   Add to this evidence of successive waves of settlement and invasion by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Spanish, Italian, Austrian and quite possibly a few others – all enough to make your ancient history head spin.  Oristano features strongly in all this with nearby Sinis Peninsular home to Tharros, an ancient port settled by the Phoenicians and later an important stop on the Marseilles to Carthage trading route.  Dating from the middle ages, Oristano has connections with Eleonora d’Arborea (1340-1404), a “Joan of Arc” style figure who contributed much to Sardinia’s advancement, particularly in civil rights.  So we felt we couldn’t have landed in a better place to start exploring.  So here’s your walking tour of Oristano’s main sights:

Torre di Mariano - once a gate in massive walls

Stop 1.  Make for Piazza Roma and admire the 13^th c Torre di Mariano II, once the medieval Oristano’s north gate (1290) and part of the town wall – another massive structure, most of which has since been demolished.  The tower, crenelated and backless, is topped by a massive bronze bell. 

The Museum is full of interesting finds, making GS want to take up pottery again!

Stop 2.  Walk through narrow Via Parpaglia, passing (but not noticing) a derelict 16^th Casa di Eleonora. Admire an interesting theatre building before moving on to the Antiquarium  Arborense.  This treasure-hold of archaeological finds from the province is housed in a charming merchant’s house fronting on to leafy Piazza Corrias.   The museum, brimming with artefacts was a delight and the staff friendly & very helpful.  After seeing displays from Tharros, a Phoenician (8th c BC) then Roman Port, we hoped to find time to explore this amazing site too.

A robust Santa Chiara & Convent

Stop 3.  Backtrack to Via Garibaldi to pass Santa Chiara, a 14^th c church said to be the burial place of Eleonora; actually it’s her aunt.  (The church is part of a Convent complex and permission is needed to tour it.)  A little further on is another survivor of the city’s defences, the squat Portixedda; one of two towers, it stood guard on the western approaches to the city. 

Portixedda

Stop 4.  From here our trusty tour guide took us on a “protracted” route skirting the old city.  Better to backtrack to Via Lamarmora and stay inside the old city.  Stop on the way in Via Carmine to admire the old church near the University building.  From here, circle the block.  (No!  Not that way!  The Cap’n is adrift again.)  With any luck, and a few very tall palm trees for guidance, you should end up in Piazza Eleonora.

Eleonora stands proud

Stop 5.  Sit here for a while in the late afternoon sun with the old folk under the statue of Eleonora (1881) and admire the buildings surrounding the piazza, including the Municipio (Town Hall).  Walk with locals as they perform the ritual afternoon stroll (passeggiata) – a pre-dinner requisite.  Whilst here, pick up a few more pamphlets at the Tourist Office.  More things to see whilst in Sardinia.  Discover that a Textile Museum and Tharros are well out of cycling range.  Our guide, who much prefers boats, sighs with relief….

Duomo's Bell Tower - note ugly faces under the dome

Stop 6.  At the top of Piazza Eleonora turn to take in the view of San Francesco’s solid white Ionic columns and the Duomo’s (13^th c) magnificent “onion-roofed” bell tower.  This tower is a taster for the cathedral’s glitzy interior; a mix of many styles with lots of gilt, marble, paint and impassioned religious statuary. It is extraordinarily overwhelming – as of course, it was meant to be.  Attached to the complex is the stunning seminary (1712).

Inside the Cathedral

Stop 7.  Walk down Via Sant’ Antonio and take a rest at the only other surviving wall remnant before deciding whether to bus it back to the marina or stop for a “refreshing ale” at one of the outdoor cafes surrounding Piazza Roma.  We took the bus, but stopped at the marina bar instead – balm for our aching feet either way!